I have some LV halogen lamps I want to put in my airing cupboard, but they
are supplied with a plug-in type transformer. The most convenient supply is
a lighting radial, but I can't fit a socket of any sort to a lighting
circuit, am I right in saying? Is there any way I can supply a plug-in
transformer from a lighting circuit?

Next option, more difficult, is to supply it from the mains. I have
nearby a radial from the consumer unit which runs the immersion heater: also
split off this radial ( at an unknown point, probably under the
floorboards ) are a 300W shower and the central heating supply ( pump, timer
etc ).

Am I allowed to add another spur from this radial to a 13A socket,
which I can plug the 2 x 20W lights into, via their transformer? Also,
whilst this is technically a fixed electric appliance, I can't see how I can
work a fused connection unit ( say 3A ) into things, as the transformer must
plug directy into a socket. My thoughts are that I don't need a fused socket
or whatever, because these things are intended to be plugged into whatever
13A socket is handy.

Any advice appreciated,

Andy.

"andrewpreece" wrote in message
...
I have some LV halogen lamps I want to put in my airing cupboard, but they
are supplied with a plug-in type transformer. The most convenient supply
is
a lighting radial, but I can't fit a socket of any sort to a lighting
circuit, am I right in saying? Is there any way I can supply a plug-in
transformer from a lighting circuit?

Any advice appreciated,

It would probably be a lot less hassle to just buy a new transformer for the
lights!

(You can always sell the other ones on eBay too!)

60w dimmable one from screwfix is £5.99
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...10022&ts=57757

Sparks...

I have some LV halogen lamps I want to put in my airing cupboard, but
they are supplied with a plug-in type transformer.

I assume you mean the transformer is a wall wart type with integral plug?

I would use an unswitched 13A socket indelibly marked "lighting only" fed
from an adjacent 3A FCU on the lighting circuit. It probably isn't quite
compliant with regs, but it'll be reasonably safe.

The main safety issue is that when the next occupier plugs the vacuum
cleaner or a fan heater into it and the lighting MCB blows before the fuse,
it will cause the lights to go out and granny might fall down the stairs in
the dark.

Basically, to do it properly, you need to find a proper socket circuit
somewhere to tap into.

Christian.

In uk.d-i-y, Christian McArdle wrote:

I would use an unswitched 13A socket indelibly marked "lighting only" fed
from an adjacent 3A FCU on the lighting circuit. It probably isn't quite
compliant with regs, but it'll be reasonably safe.

The main safety issue is that when the next occupier plugs the vacuum
cleaner or a fan heater into it and the lighting MCB blows before the fuse,
it will cause the lights to go out and granny might fall down the stairs in
the dark.

(Not our granny: she doesn't do stairs at all any more...)

Indeed, to make it less likely to pop the MCB under an inappropriate
load, you could do a lot worse than fit a 1A fuse into the FCU. The 1A
will indefinitely feed 300W or more of halogen lighting (no, fuses do
not blow at 1.0001 times their nominal rating ;-) but if some mumpty plugs
in the vac, hair dryer, or fan-heater into the clearly-marked Lighting
Only socket there's a sporting chance that the 1A cartridge fuse will pop
before the 6A lighting MCB. Only a sporting chance, mind, given that
cart-fuses and MCBs have rather different time-to-blow-on-overload
characteristics, and that the MCB will be supplying other lights too -
so might be feeding 5A to other loads on the same circuit which Mumpty
just plugged an electric chainsaw into... but a sporting chance nonetheless.

HTH - Stefek

wrote in message
...
In uk.d-i-y, Christian McArdle wrote:

I would use an unswitched 13A socket indelibly marked "lighting only"
fed
from an adjacent 3A FCU on the lighting circuit. It probably isn't quite
compliant with regs, but it'll be reasonably safe.

The main safety issue is that when the next occupier plugs the vacuum
cleaner or a fan heater into it and the lighting MCB blows before the
fuse,
it will cause the lights to go out and granny might fall down the stairs
in
the dark.

(Not our granny: she doesn't do stairs at all any more...)

Indeed, to make it less likely to pop the MCB under an inappropriate
load, you could do a lot worse than fit a 1A fuse into the FCU. The 1A
will indefinitely feed 300W or more of halogen lighting (no, fuses do
not blow at 1.0001 times their nominal rating ;-) but if some mumpty plugs
in the vac, hair dryer, or fan-heater into the clearly-marked Lighting
Only socket there's a sporting chance that the 1A cartridge fuse will pop
before the 6A lighting MCB. Only a sporting chance, mind, given that
cart-fuses and MCBs have rather different time-to-blow-on-overload
characteristics, and that the MCB will be supplying other lights too -
so might be feeding 5A to other loads on the same circuit which Mumpty
just plugged an electric chainsaw into... but a sporting chance
nonetheless.

HTH - Stefek

Thanks all - I didn't mention that the socket would be in a space above the
top of the airing cupboard ( lined with wooden wainscotting ) so won't be
visible, or accessible easily, so maybe the 13A socket with a Dyno'd
"Lighting Only" label plus a 1A FCU is the way to go. Probably
non-regulation
but I bet there're very few houses in the country that are totally
regs-compliant.
The main thing is that it should be safe and reliable.

The idea of using a different transformer is good, but then these lights and
transformer were bought at IKEA for very little money and it seems a shame
to buy more expensive stuff, also the present TFMR is moulded to the LV
cable.


cheers,

Andy.

Thanks all - I didn't mention that the socket would be in a space
above the top of the airing cupboard ( lined with wooden wainscotting
) so won't be visible, or accessible easily, so maybe the 13A socket
with a Dyno'd "Lighting Only" label plus a 1A FCU is the way to go.

OTOH, it needs to have some accessibility to change the fuse. Also, a label
near the lighting indicating the position of the non-obvious FCU may be in
order.

Christian.

In article ,
Christian McArdle wrote:
I would use an unswitched 13A socket indelibly marked "lighting only" fed
from an adjacent 3A FCU on the lighting circuit. It probably isn't quite
compliant with regs, but it'll be reasonably safe.

I'd also make a strap up out of aluminium that goes over the wall wart and
fix it to the wall etc - something to make sure anyone who does try and
unplug it to use the socket for something else does so absolutely
deliberately. Make sure you don't block any ventilation slots, though.

--
*Middle age is when it takes longer to rest than to get tired.

Dave Plowman London SW 12
RIP Acorn

"Christian McArdle" wrote in message . net...
I have some LV halogen lamps I want to put in my airing cupboard, but
they are supplied with a plug-in type transformer.

I assume you mean the transformer is a wall wart type with integral plug?

I would use an unswitched 13A socket indelibly marked "lighting only" fed
from an adjacent 3A FCU on the lighting circuit. It probably isn't quite
compliant with regs, but it'll be reasonably safe.

The main safety issue is that when the next occupier plugs the vacuum
cleaner or a fan heater into it and the lighting MCB blows before the fuse,
it will cause the lights to go out and granny might fall down the stairs in
the dark.

I suggest that you fit a 5Amp lighting socket to the lighting circuit,
then make up a short cable with a 5Amp lighting plug on one end and an
extension lead type 13Amp socket on the other.

To be extra safe I would attach the wall wart to the 13A socket
permanently - some impact adhesive would do the job.

You now effectively have a transformer with a lighting circuit plug,
and a socket which will only take lighting plugs.


Basically, to do it properly, you need to find a proper socket circuit
somewhere to tap into.

True, but I think that the above is a good compromise.