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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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Kitchen work surface joining
I need to do a few joints in work surfaces, a couple of them right angles.
Any advice on the way to do these joints would be greatly appreciated. I understand the principal of the long screw bolts and assume that I router out the grooves for these. My main concern is the cutting of the work surface a) can I use a circular saw? b) for a 600mm surface at right angles do I cut a straight line for , say, 580mm and then a 45 degree cut for the remainder? c) in addition to the bolts pulling the surfaces together I have also seen biscuit joins in some situations - how important is this? |
#2
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Kitchen work surface joining
"mickael" wrote in message ... I need to do a few joints in work surfaces, a couple of them right angles. Any advice on the way to do these joints would be greatly appreciated. I understand the principal of the long screw bolts and assume that I router out the grooves for these. My main concern is the cutting of the work surface a) can I use a circular saw? b) for a 600mm surface at right angles do I cut a straight line for , say, 580mm and then a 45 degree cut for the remainder? c) in addition to the bolts pulling the surfaces together I have also seen biscuit joins in some situations - how important is this? to do this right you need a worktop cutting jig and a big router, anything else will probably look awful |
#3
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Kitchen work surface joining
You need to use a special worktop jig and a router with a minium 1300 watt
motor,needs a bit of practise to do ,and setting up.Probably easier to get a kitchen fitter or joinery shop to do it for you. |
#4
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Kitchen work surface joining
mickael wrote
I need to do a few joints in work surfaces, a couple of them right angles. Any advice on the way to do these joints would be greatly appreciated. I understand the principal of the long screw bolts and assume that I router out the grooves for these. My main concern is the cutting of the work surface a) can I use a circular saw? The problem I found with a circular saw is it cuts upwards so is always trying to lift and chip the laminate. And if you turn the worktop over to avoid this you can't see what you're doing. There is still a part of the blade going the wrong way. Have a go at this on a scrap piece first - carefully score the laminate with a sharp Stanley knife and then cut close to it gently, using a fine hand saw. You can use a small plane on the edge as long as it's sharp and set very finely. Somebdy once told me to stick sellotape along the score line - I never tried that. b) for a 600mm surface at right angles do I cut a straight line for , say, 580mm and then a 45 degree cut for the remainder? Yep - that's what I'd do for a rounded worktop c) in addition to the bolts pulling the surfaces together I have also seen biscuit joins in some situations - how important is this? They keep the surface flush across the joint. Good idea, especially when the worktop is not properly supported at the joint. |
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Kitchen work surface joining
On Sat, 13 Dec 2003 10:01:33 GMT, "MrCheerful"
wrote: to do this right you need a worktop cutting jig and a big router, anything else will probably look awful If you leave out the word "probably" then your statement is very accurate. I bought the big router and worktop jig not so long ago. These aren't toys. Worktop jigs are available on ebay for about 50 smackers. I have no idea of the quality because I went for the real McCoy. PoP |
#6
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Kitchen work surface joining
mickael wrote:
I need to do a few joints in work surfaces, a couple of them right angles. Any advice on the way to do these joints would be greatly appreciated. I understand the principal of the long screw bolts and assume that I router out the grooves for these. My main concern is the cutting of the work surface a) can I use a circular saw? Its not a very good finish, even with a straight new fine tioothed blade. These days I cut over size and finsish with a fine pass from a router set at pull depth. Packing tape over the cut surface allows lines to be easily drawn and helps prevent surface chipping. b) for a 600mm surface at right angles do I cut a straight line for , say, 580mm and then a 45 degree cut for the remainder? From memory, its a bit less than 20mm. More like 10mm - just enouh to get proper mating on teh curved front edge. Its not pssible to rout the internal angle, so a very fine fretsaw and chisel is used to clean up the angle. c) in addition to the bolts pulling the surfaces together I have also seen biscuit joins in some situations - how important is this? The only important thing is to get teh two bits immoveably clamped together and a watertight seal. I have often done no more than screw a batten underneath. I tend to use car body filler to glue them together as well -waterproof, and suits my usual dark grey finishes well. If the units are well mounted, and won't move, and teh tops are screwed down to them, the batten is enough to stop the halves wobbling apart. If you do have the routing jigs for the more complex ways - well why not sue em. I think teh biscuits are there to senure vertical alignment so there is no ridge. In my case, the join is suaually over a cupboard or void, and the batteen does the same. Any minor imperfections can be filled, by the way, with coloured epoxy filler. |
#7
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Kitchen work surface joining
Hi Mikael & all.
If you are in my area give me a call. All my details are here www.kitchenman.info Save money pay someone who knows how to do it. -- regards Dave Batter Kitchenman www.kitchenman.co.uk www.sxmitres.info www.marks-family.co.uk http://oneandone.co.uk/xml/init?k_id=5568652 "mickael" wrote in message ... I need to do a few joints in work surfaces, a couple of them right angles. Any advice on the way to do these joints would be greatly appreciated. I understand the principal of the long screw bolts and assume that I router out the grooves for these. My main concern is the cutting of the work surface a) can I use a circular saw? b) for a 600mm surface at right angles do I cut a straight line for , say, 580mm and then a 45 degree cut for the remainder? c) in addition to the bolts pulling the surfaces together I have also seen biscuit joins in some situations - how important is this? |
#8
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Kitchen work surface joining
"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message ... mickael wrote: I need to do a few joints in work surfaces, a couple of them right angles. Any advice on the way to do these joints would be greatly appreciated. I understand the principal of the long screw bolts and assume that I router out the grooves for these. My main concern is the cutting of the work surface Any minor imperfections can be filled, by the way, with coloured epoxy filler. If its done correctly there is no need for fillers -- regards Dave Batter Kitchenman www.kitchenman.co.uk www.sxmitres.info www.marks-family.co.uk http://oneandone.co.uk/xml/init?k_id=5568652 |
#9
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Kitchen work surface joining
"kitchenman" wrote in message ... Hi Mikael & all. If you are in my area give me a call. All my details are here www.kitchenman.info Save money pay someone who knows how to do it. -- regards Dave Batter Kitchenman www.kitchenman.co.uk Dave, Interesting site, but unless I'm mistaken there is No mention of where you are or what area you cover ! The only clue I could see was a link to Essex web sites !!!! Andrew Mawson, Bromley, Kent |
#10
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Kitchen work surface joining
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Andrew Mawson wrote: Interesting site, but unless I'm mistaken there is No mention of where you are or what area you cover ! The only clue I could see was a link to Essex web sites !!!! Andrew Mawson, Bromley, Kent The phone number 01702 is somewhere around Southend. -- Cheers, Set Square ______ Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is Black Hole! |
#11
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Kitchen work surface joining
kitchenman wrote:
"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message ... mickael wrote: I need to do a few joints in work surfaces, a couple of them right angles. Any advice on the way to do these joints would be greatly appreciated. I understand the principal of the long screw bolts and assume that I router out the grooves for these. My main concern is the cutting of the work surface Any minor imperfections can be filled, by the way, with coloured epoxy filler. If its done correctly there is no need for fillers Indeed, but who amongst us claims perfection? You aren't IMM perchance under a different name? |
#12
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Kitchen work surface joining
NO who is OMM
I have been kitchenman for over 20 years, had the www name since 1998 -- regards Dave Batter Kitchenman www.kitchenman.co.uk www.sxmitres.info www.marks-family.co.uk http://oneandone.co.uk/xml/init?k_id=5568652 "The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message ... kitchenman wrote: "The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message ... mickael wrote: I need to do a few joints in work surfaces, a couple of them right angles. Any advice on the way to do these joints would be greatly appreciated. I understand the principal of the long screw bolts and assume that I router out the grooves for these. My main concern is the cutting of the work surface Any minor imperfections can be filled, by the way, with coloured epoxy filler. If its done correctly there is no need for fillers Indeed, but who amongst us claims perfection? You aren't IMM perchance under a different name? |
#13
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Kitchen work surface joining
I am in Essex, as you guessed, 30 mins from the Dartford Crossing [ on a
good day]. Have done work in Kent Have van will travel Extra out of my area of course My area is approx. east of M25 south of A12, to Chelmsford then due east from there. I thought it was on the site, I will add it Thanks for the prompt. -- regards Dave Batter Kitchenman www.kitchenman.co.uk www.sxmitres.info www.marks-family.co.uk http://oneandone.co.uk/xml/init?k_id=5568652 "Andrew Mawson" wrote in message ... "kitchenman" wrote in message ... Hi Mikael & all. If you are in my area give me a call. All my details are here www.kitchenman.info Save money pay someone who knows how to do it. -- regards Dave Batter Kitchenman www.kitchenman.co.uk Dave, Interesting site, but unless I'm mistaken there is No mention of where you are or what area you cover ! The only clue I could see was a link to Essex web sites !!!! Andrew Mawson, Bromley, Kent |
#14
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Kitchen work surface joining
Correct SS0 9
-- regards Dave Batter Kitchenman www.kitchenman.co.uk www.sxmitres.info www.marks-family.co.uk http://oneandone.co.uk/xml/init?k_id=5568652 "Set Square" wrote in message ... In an earlier contribution to this discussion, Andrew Mawson wrote: Interesting site, but unless I'm mistaken there is No mention of where you are or what area you cover ! The only clue I could see was a link to Essex web sites !!!! Andrew Mawson, Bromley, Kent The phone number 01702 is somewhere around Southend. -- Cheers, Set Square ______ Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is Black Hole! |
#15
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Kitchen work surface joining
I wrote
I need to do a few joints in work surfaces, a couple of them right angles. Any advice on the way to do these joints would be greatly appreciated. I understand the principal of the long screw bolts and assume that I router out the grooves for these. My main concern is the cutting of the work surface a) can I use a circular saw? b) for a 600mm surface at right angles do I cut a straight line for , say, 580mm and then a 45 degree cut for the remainder? c) in addition to the bolts pulling the surfaces together I have also seen biscuit joins in some situations - how important is this? Thanks for all the contributions. I've decided to chicken out and get a joiner to do the cuts. I will then practise on the removed surfaces to install in my outhouse utility room. The only problem now is convincing 'er indoors that I meant Christmas 2004 as the completion date. |
#16
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Kitchen work surface joining
On Mon, 15 Dec 2003 01:09:47 -0000, "kitchenman"
wrote: I have been kitchenman for over 20 years, had the www name since 1998 And I think well respected around these parts, based upon previous contributions made. PoP |
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