Hi all,

Health warning : I am a complete numpty at plumbing and have never
done any plumbing work in my life, so you'll have to speak to me as if
I was a slighlty retarded kid...

So, here goes :

One of my sealed CH pipes is banging like mad when the boiler goes on.
I think I have located the noise to an underfloor pipe which used to
feed 2 radiators. These radiators have been removed in the summer and
the pipe capped off. However, there is still a 2m section of
horizontal pipe remaining.

From reading this archive, I believe an airlock might be causing this.
The question, you've guessed it, is what can I do about it? Do I need
to bleed the entire system (and if so, how?, and how do I fill it up
again afterwards, in particular wrt corrosion inhibitor etc). Or is
there a simpler way?

TIA

Greg

Greg W wrote:
Hi all,

Health warning : I am a complete numpty at plumbing and have never
done any plumbing work in my life, so you'll have to speak to me as if
I was a slighlty retarded kid...

So, here goes :

One of my sealed CH pipes is banging like mad when the boiler goes on.
I think I have located the noise to an underfloor pipe which used to
feed 2 radiators. These radiators have been removed in the summer and
the pipe capped off. However, there is still a 2m section of
horizontal pipe remaining.

From reading this archive, I believe an airlock might be causing this.
The question, you've guessed it, is what can I do about it? Do I need
to bleed the entire system (and if so, how?, and how do I fill it up
again afterwards, in particular wrt corrosion inhibitor etc). Or is
there a simpler way?

TIA

Greg

Drain the system and remove the 2m of pipe.
You may be able to do it without draining by using one of those pipe freezer
kits.
Inhibitor is best injected into rad air vent plug using one of those Fernox
cartridges, nb they are around £20 retail...

On Mon, 8 Dec 2003 17:59:31 -0000, "BillR"
wrote:



Drain the system and remove the 2m of pipe.
You may be able to do it without draining by using one of those pipe freezer
kits.
Inhibitor is best injected into rad air vent plug using one of those Fernox
cartridges, nb they are around £20 retail...


Thanks - however, the pipe is under some original wood flooring which
I don't want to ruin by taking up, and above a newly plastered ceiling
I'd hate to poke holes in for that very reason. Any fix which doesn't
involve removing the pipe?

Cheers

Greg

In article , Greg W
writes
On Mon, 8 Dec 2003 17:59:31 -0000, "BillR"
wrote:



Drain the system and remove the 2m of pipe.
You may be able to do it without draining by using one of those pipe freezer
kits.
Inhibitor is best injected into rad air vent plug using one of those Fernox
cartridges, nb they are around £20 retail...


Thanks - however, the pipe is under some original wood flooring which
I don't want to ruin by taking up, and above a newly plastered ceiling
I'd hate to poke holes in for that very reason. Any fix which doesn't
involve removing the pipe?

If you still have access to the capped ends of the pipe, fit vent caps
instead & bleed as you would a radiator. Buy at a plumbers' merchant or
DIY shed. Example here, but they charge for postage:
http://www.bes.ltd.uk/products/148a.asp code 6793, half way down.
You'll need one on both capped ends.
--
fred