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Default Double Glazing effectiveness meter

ok so I accepted a cold call invitiation as the first ploy of the
energy saving call was externally beaded windows and security, then
special thermal coating for walls, but then I have a wide bedroom
window on which condensation forms at times on the room side of the
glass.

The 'surveyor' came with a meter that either showed Red or Green. A
window unit I know that had been recently replaced new glass showed,
as it should, Green as did the very large lounge window.

The bedroom window showed Red. I joked about "Press once for Green,
press two for Red" but the meter seemed genuine. So what is it and
are they any use?

And any clues on the condensation on the inside (not between) the old
wide window? It is on a North side wall which never gets any sun.


--
AnthonyL
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Default Double Glazing effectiveness meter

On 27/10/2016 16:46, AnthonyL wrote:


And any clues on the condensation on the inside (not between) the old
wide window? It is on a North side wall which never gets any sun.


Windows tend to be the coldest part of an exterior wall so will get
condensation on first. Even with double glazing it will happen first.

Of course if you have heating on and ventilation its less likely.


Our windows are so good we get condensation on the outside. ;-)

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AnthonyL wrote:

The 'surveyor' came with a meter that either showed Red or Green.


Maybe it was to indicate whether the glass was "Low E" aka "K" glass,
and if it was fitted the correct way around?

e.g. http://www.surveyorsequipment.co.uk/img/heme_37_7.jpg
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dennis@home wrote:

Our windows are so good we get condensation on the outside. ;-)


Ditto


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On Thursday, 27 October 2016 16:46:30 UTC+1, AnthonyL wrote:
ok so I accepted a cold call invitiation as the first ploy of the
energy saving call was externally beaded windows and security, then
special thermal coating for walls, but then I have a wide bedroom
window on which condensation forms at times on the room side of the
glass.

The 'surveyor' came with a meter that either showed Red or Green. A
window unit I know that had been recently replaced new glass showed,
as it should, Green as did the very large lounge window.

The bedroom window showed Red. I joked about "Press once for Green,
press two for Red" but the meter seemed genuine. So what is it and
are they any use?

And any clues on the condensation on the inside (not between) the old
wide window? It is on a North side wall which never gets any sun.


--
AnthonyL


Some glass has an invisible metalised surface on one side.
It's supposed to reflect infra red and thus save energy.
This means it has to be correctly orientated to work properly.
The meter detects which side is metalised.

https://www.pilkington.com/en-gb/uk/...issivity-glass


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Default Double Glazing effectiveness meter

On 27/10/2016 16:46, AnthonyL wrote:
The bedroom window showed Red. I joked about "Press once for Green,
press two for Red" but the meter seemed genuine. So what is it and
are they any use?


Perhaps testing if the glass had low emissivity coating like Pilkington "K".

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On Thu, 27 Oct 2016 16:57:39 +0100, Andy Burns
wrote:

AnthonyL wrote:

The 'surveyor' came with a meter that either showed Red or Green.


Maybe it was to indicate whether the glass was "Low E" aka "K" glass,
and if it was fitted the correct way around?

e.g. http://www.surveyorsequipment.co.uk/img/heme_37_7.jpg


Oh, now I am confused. Yes that looks like the meter (I only got a
quick glance and not too sure about 3 lights) but that seems to say
Green is clear not coated? So if I've understood correctly Green is
bad, Red is good, Orange is bad, or have I got that ar$e about t1t?

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Default Double Glazing effectiveness meter

There seem to be a couple of things that double glazing needs to do. It has
obviously to not allow radiant heatfrom inside out, and it has to insulate.
the latter in the case of mine is fine on the glass but rubbish on the ally
frames as they do not have a break between outside and inside unfortunately,
too old, so I do still get condensation on the frames and can on very cold
nights feel a draft due to the dropping cool air.
Question is, is it worth the upheaval and expense to have them replaced
when the wallds do not ahve a cavity to insulate.
Brian

--
----- -
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please!
"AnthonyL" wrote in message
...
ok so I accepted a cold call invitiation as the first ploy of the
energy saving call was externally beaded windows and security, then
special thermal coating for walls, but then I have a wide bedroom
window on which condensation forms at times on the room side of the
glass.

The 'surveyor' came with a meter that either showed Red or Green. A
window unit I know that had been recently replaced new glass showed,
as it should, Green as did the very large lounge window.

The bedroom window showed Red. I joked about "Press once for Green,
press two for Red" but the meter seemed genuine. So what is it and
are they any use?

And any clues on the condensation on the inside (not between) the old
wide window? It is on a North side wall which never gets any sun.


--
AnthonyL



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AnthonyL wrote:

Andy Burns wrote:

http://www.surveyorsequipment.co.uk/img/heme_37_7.jpg


if I've understood correctly Green is bad, Red is good,
Orange is bad


For that particular meter, depending whether pointed from indoors or
outdoors, but I'm sure there are plenty of similar devices.

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On Thu, 27 Oct 2016 19:19:56 +0100, Andy Burns
wrote:

AnthonyL wrote:

Andy Burns wrote:

http://www.surveyorsequipment.co.uk/img/heme_37_7.jpg


if I've understood correctly Green is bad, Red is good,
Orange is bad


For that particular meter, depending whether pointed from indoors or
outdoors, but I'm sure there are plenty of similar devices.


I wish I'd paid a bit more attention to the meter but I do only recall
Red and Green with the 'surveyor' (well he had a tape measure) saying
Green was good and I did get Green on the one window I know was
reputably replaced recently. Heme did ring a bell though.

All readings were done from the inside.


--
AnthonyL


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On 27/10/2016 19:05, Brian Gaff wrote:

There seem to be a couple of things that double glazing needs to do. It has
obviously to not allow radiant heatfrom inside out, and it has to insulate.
the latter in the case of mine is fine on the glass but rubbish on the ally
frames as they do not have a break between outside and inside unfortunately,
too old, so I do still get condensation on the frames and can on very cold
nights feel a draft due to the dropping cool air.
Question is, is it worth the upheaval and expense to have them replaced
when the wallds do not ahve a cavity to insulate.


The windows sound exactly the same setup as we had. In cold weather the
frames would be constantly wet with condensation. I had the feeling that
the heat loss through the frames was probably as much as was being saved
by the double glass. We do however have cavity walls - rather
unconventional 4.5 inch outer leaf and 2.5 inch inner leaf, plus 2 inch
polystyrene foam under the plasterboard on the inside.

We had the windows replaced with new UPVC units about 12 months ago and
noticed a big improvement in comfort level. The energy savings won't be
enough to recoup the cost but still well worth it from the comfort point
of view.

--
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Default Double Glazing effectiveness meter

Brian Gaff formulated on Thursday :
There seem to be a couple of things that double glazing needs to do. It has
obviously to not allow radiant heatfrom inside out, and it has to insulate.
the latter in the case of mine is fine on the glass but rubbish on the ally
frames as they do not have a break between outside and inside unfortunately,
too old, so I do still get condensation on the frames and can on very cold
nights feel a draft due to the dropping cool air.
Question is, is it worth the upheaval and expense to have them replaced when
the wallds do not ahve a cavity to insulate.
Brian


I can't help with the lack of a cavity, but...

If your alloy DG was anything like ours, they were designed to fix into
the existing wooden frames. Just the original glass and woodwork in the
middle of the frames removed then the alloy laid in.

Those wooden frames eventually rotted in places, so I decided to
replace the lot. On really cold days, the moisture did condense a
little, now we get none of that and it does seem a little warmer, but
we have cavities which are insulated. The entire house is warm and
comfortable, apart from the utility, which is noticeably colder despite
being heated. The reason being it has no cavity and a flat roof.
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Default Double Glazing effectiveness meter

On 10/27/2016 4:57 PM, Andy Burns wrote:
AnthonyL wrote:

The 'surveyor' came with a meter that either showed Red or Green.


Maybe it was to indicate whether the glass was "Low E" aka "K" glass,
and if it was fitted the correct way around?

e.g. http://www.surveyorsequipment.co.uk/img/heme_37_7.jpg


That was my guess too! Slightly more trustworthy than damp meters!
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