any good websites dealing with the installation of retrofitted
double-glazing?

Youtube has loads of videos but they're all about installing into pristine
new-builds

a few hours in the local library showed the superiority of books

as they explained installation techniques for the last couple of decades

but some things about placement/retrofitting of a vertical damp course I'm
still unclear about

--
http://www.gillsmith999.plus.com/

Gill Smith ) wibbled on Wednesday 02 February
2011 20:39:

any good websites dealing with the installation of retrofitted
double-glazing?

Youtube has loads of videos but they're all about installing into pristine
new-builds

a few hours in the local library showed the superiority of books

as they explained installation techniques for the last couple of decades

but some things about placement/retrofitting of a vertical damp course I'm
still unclear about


I had that problem - wasn't much of a problem though, for me. I was able to
have the window frame (uPVC) bridge the cavity DPM and filled the space with
foam - and still get the window where I wanted it.

Is that what you meant?

--
Tim Watts

"Tim Watts" wrote in message
...
Gill Smith ) wibbled on Wednesday 02
February
2011 20:39:

any good websites dealing with the installation of retrofitted
double-glazing?

Youtube has loads of videos but they're all about installing into
pristine
new-builds

a few hours in the local library showed the superiority of books

as they explained installation techniques for the last couple of decades

but some things about placement/retrofitting of a vertical damp course
I'm
still unclear about


I had that problem - wasn't much of a problem though, for me. I was able
to
have the window frame (uPVC) bridge the cavity DPM and filled the space
with
foam - and still get the window where I wanted it.

Is that what you meant?

indeed

aligning frame + cavity + damp course, then securing/filling

- the existing installation has damp patches on vertical walls

because the window frame doesn't bridge the cavity

and the vertical damp course was *plastered* to the exterior wall

--
http://www.gillsmith999.plus.com/

- the existing installation has damp patches on vertical walls

i.e. down the sides of the window

--
http://www.gillsmith999.plus.com/

Gill Smith ) wibbled on Wednesday 02 February
2011 21:05:

"Tim Watts" wrote in message

I had that problem - wasn't much of a problem though, for me. I was able
to
have the window frame (uPVC) bridge the cavity DPM and filled the space
with
foam - and still get the window where I wanted it.

Is that what you meant?

indeed

aligning frame + cavity + damp course, then securing/filling

- the existing installation has damp patches on vertical walls

because the window frame doesn't bridge the cavity

and the vertical damp course was *plastered* to the exterior wall

--
http://www.gillsmith999.plus.com/

I photo documented my last fit (sorry no words - yet):

http://photos.dionic.net/v/public/bungalow/window/

Spot the black DPM (bitumen thingy by the feel of it) in the cavity, which
on my house is 90% closed with the turn of a brick.

If you are fitting uPVC, try to span the cavity gap - it's less critical
exactly how you span it as the frame is both damp proof and a reasonable
heat insulator.

If you were fitting wooden frames, might be trickier - but if you leave a
1/4"-1/2" gap all round which is usually what you have to leave to cope with
opening irregularities and measurement errors - you stuff this with PU
expanding foam which helps the frame rigidity, blocks damp and is a thermal
insulator.

Mind you, though Barrat may rely on foaming for fixing, I still use a few
big-assed screws! But foam does help - it's amazing how much a frame that
won't fall out, but is still a bit wibbly becomes absolutely solid after the
foam sets.

HTH

Tim

--
Tim Watts

On Feb 2, 9:34*pm, Tim Watts wrote:
Gill Smith ) wibbled on Wednesday 02 February
2011 21:05:



"Tim Watts" wrote in message
I had that problem - wasn't much of a problem though, for me. I was able
to
have the window frame (uPVC) bridge the cavity DPM and filled the space
with
foam - and still get the window where I wanted it.

Is that what you meant?

indeed

aligning frame + cavity + damp course, then securing/filling

*- the existing installation has damp patches on vertical walls

because the window frame doesn't bridge the cavity

and the vertical damp course was *plastered* to the exterior wall

--
http://www.gillsmith999.plus.com/

I photo documented my last fit (sorry no words - yet):

http://photos.dionic.net/v/public/bungalow/window/

Spot the black DPM (bitumen thingy by the feel of it) in the cavity, which
on my house is 90% closed with the turn of a brick.

If you are fitting uPVC, try to span the cavity gap - it's less critical
exactly how you span it as the frame is both damp proof and a reasonable
heat insulator.


You usually dont need to span the cavity gap totally. Just make sure
the uPVC frame goes some way
across the cavity. Close the cavity with an insulated cavity closer
(usually has integral vertical DPM although not strictly needed with a
plastic window frame), or expanding foam maybe.
The uPVC frame separates the plaster / plasterboard from the outside
skin as long as it crosses the cavity to some extent.
Simon.

"Tim Watts" wrote in message
...

I photo documented my last fit (sorry no words - yet):

http://photos.dionic.net/v/public/bungalow/window/

most excellent fellow!

many thanx

--
http://www.gillsmith999.plus.com/

sm_jamieson ) wibbled on Wednesday 02 February 2011
22:42:


You usually dont need to span the cavity gap totally. Just make sure
the uPVC frame goes some way
across the cavity. Close the cavity with an insulated cavity closer
(usually has integral vertical DPM although not strictly needed with a
plastic window frame), or expanding foam maybe.
The uPVC frame separates the plaster / plasterboard from the outside
skin as long as it crosses the cavity to some extent.
Simon.

Interesting. I didn't have a closer as the 1950's house had the cavity
mostly closed by a turned in leaf - 1/2" gap with a bit of DPM shoved in.

--
Tim Watts

On Feb 2, 9:05*pm, "Gill Smith" wrote:
"Tim Watts" wrote in message

...





Gill Smith ) wibbled on Wednesday 02
February
2011 20:39:

any good websites dealing with the installation of retrofitted
double-glazing?

Youtube has loads of videos but they're all about installing into
pristine
new-builds

a few hours in the local library showed the superiority of books

as they explained installation techniques for the last couple of decades

but some things about placement/retrofitting of a vertical damp course
I'm
still unclear about

I had that problem - wasn't much of a problem though, for me. I was able
to
have the window frame (uPVC) bridge the cavity DPM and filled the space
with
foam - and still get the window where I wanted it.

Is that what you meant?

indeed

aligning frame + cavity + damp course, then securing/filling

*- the existing installation has damp patches on vertical walls

because the window frame doesn't bridge the cavity

and the vertical damp course was *plastered* to the exterior wall

--http://www.gillsmith999.plus.com/- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

If you have a gap there is a thing called a cavity wall closer that is
instead of building a "return" out of block/brickwork. Normally fitted
during construction though.

http://www.cavalok.com/cavalok_cavity_closers.html

If it's not there you have a really crap house. You might be able to
retro fit them with canned foam.

harry ) wibbled on Thursday 03 February 2011 08:47:


http://www.cavalok.com/cavalok_cavity_closers.html

If it's not there you have a really crap house. You might be able to
retro fit them with canned foam.

Those retro fit OK...

--
Tim Watts

On 2 Feb, 21:34, Tim Watts wrote:
Gill Smith ) wibbled on Wednesday 02 February
2011 21:05:





"Tim Watts" wrote in message
I had that problem - wasn't much of a problem though, for me. I was able
to
have the window frame (uPVC) bridge the cavity DPM and filled the space
with
foam - and still get the window where I wanted it.

Is that what you meant?

indeed

aligning frame + cavity + damp course, then securing/filling

*- the existing installation has damp patches on vertical walls

because the window frame doesn't bridge the cavity

and the vertical damp course was *plastered* to the exterior wall

--
http://www.gillsmith999.plus.com/

I photo documented my last fit (sorry no words - yet):

http://photos.dionic.net/v/public/bungalow/window/

Spot the black DPM (bitumen thingy by the feel of it) in the cavity, which
on my house is 90% closed with the turn of a brick.

If you are fitting uPVC, try to span the cavity gap - it's less critical
exactly how you span it as the frame is both damp proof and a reasonable
heat insulator.

If you were fitting wooden frames, might be trickier - but if you leave a
1/4"-1/2" gap all round which is usually what you have to leave to cope with
opening irregularities and measurement errors - you stuff this with PU
expanding foam which helps the frame rigidity, blocks damp and is a thermal
insulator.

Mind you, though Barrat may rely on foaming for fixing, I still use a few
big-assed screws! But foam does help - it's amazing how much a frame that
won't fall out, but is still a bit wibbly becomes absolutely solid after the
foam sets.

HTH

Tim

--
Tim Watts- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I thought you'd be younger ;-)

http://photos.dionic.net/v/public/bu...33218.jpg.html

Cheers
Richard

"harry" wrote in message
...

If you have a gap there is a thing called a cavity wall closer that is
instead of building a "return" out of block/brickwork. Normally fitted
during construction though.

http://www.cavalok.com/cavalok_cavity_closers.html

If it's not there you have a really crap house. You might be able to
retro fit them with canned foam.

just whacked off more plaster work

the house was built with a brick return

phew!

it's a good house (mostly) that's been abominably treated

--
http://www.gillsmith999.plus.com/

"Tim Watts" wrote in message
...
sm_jamieson ) wibbled on Wednesday 02 February
2011
22:42:


You usually dont need to span the cavity gap totally. Just make sure
the uPVC frame goes some way
across the cavity. Close the cavity with an insulated cavity closer
(usually has integral vertical DPM although not strictly needed with a
plastic window frame), or expanding foam maybe.
The uPVC frame separates the plaster / plasterboard from the outside
skin as long as it crosses the cavity to some extent.
Simon.

Interesting. I didn't have a closer as the 1950's house had the cavity
mostly closed by a turned in leaf - 1/2" gap with a bit of DPM shoved in.

Like mine, I see your DPC was cut with v. little overlap protruding from the
brickwork

p.s. was that fibreglass packed between the hanging DPC and exterior wall?

--
http://www.gillsmith999.plus.com/

"Gill Smith" wrote in message
o.uk...

p.s. was that fibreglass packed between the hanging DPC and exterior wall?

I meant in this pic

http://photos.dionic.net/v/public/bu...32217.jpg.html

--
http://www.gillsmith999.plus.com/

geraldthehamster ) wibbled on Thursday 03 February
2011 10:12:


I thought you'd be younger ;-)

http://photos.dionic.net/v/public/bu...33218.jpg.html


I was 20 years younger 7 years ago, then I had kids. well, SWMBO did, but
the blast radius is quite wide(!)
--
Tim Watts

Gill Smith ) wibbled on Thursday 03 February
2011 10:52:

"Tim Watts" wrote in message
...
sm_jamieson ) wibbled on Wednesday 02 February
2011
22:42:


You usually dont need to span the cavity gap totally. Just make sure
the uPVC frame goes some way
across the cavity. Close the cavity with an insulated cavity closer
(usually has integral vertical DPM although not strictly needed with a
plastic window frame), or expanding foam maybe.
The uPVC frame separates the plaster / plasterboard from the outside
skin as long as it crosses the cavity to some extent.
Simon.

Interesting. I didn't have a closer as the 1950's house had the cavity
mostly closed by a turned in leaf - 1/2" gap with a bit of DPM shoved in.

Like mine, I see your DPC was cut with v. little overlap protruding from
the brickwork

p.s. was that fibreglass packed between the hanging DPC and exterior wall?


Probably some blown fibre cavity fill escaping...

I did pack a few small voids with glass wool where I had to make good old
vent holes, because it was to hand...

--
Tim Watts

Gill Smith ) wibbled on Thursday 03 February
2011 11:01:

"Gill Smith" wrote in message
o.uk...

p.s. was that fibreglass packed between the hanging DPC and exterior
wall?

I meant in this pic

http://photos.dionic.net/v/public/bu...32217.jpg.html

No - that's PU foam. I cut the window frame loose last year - bar metal
brackets, so I didn;t have to make a mess after we moved in.

Then last winter (2009) was cold so I saled the old window frame in with
foam. Good move...


--
Tim Watts

On Thu, 3 Feb 2011 00:47:22 -0800 (PST), harry
wrote:



If you have a gap there is a thing called a cavity wall closer that is
instead of building a "return" out of block/brickwork. Normally fitted
during construction though.

http://www.cavalok.com/cavalok_cavity_closers.html

The builder of my extension used something similar that looks as
though it was also cheaper, a strip of 6in plastic with a strip of
polystyrene the width of the cavity and about an inch deep attached to
it. You can see the edge of the plastic is this:
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pi...0000376757 73

If anyone wants to see the other 190 photographs they are at:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...l=a7eb38b39 8

On Feb 3, 3:43*pm, Peter Johnson
wrote:
On Thu, 3 Feb 2011 00:47:22 -0800 (PST), harry
wrote:



If you have a gap there is a thing called a cavity wall closer that is
instead of building a "return" out of block/brickwork. Normally fitted
during construction though.

http://www.cavalok.com/cavalok_cavity_closers.html

The builder of my extension used something similar that looks as
though it was also cheaper, a strip of 6in plastic with a strip of
polystyrene the width of the cavity and about an inch deep attached to

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/70960
Price gone up now. I used these on my extension.
Rather extortionate if you think about it.
Make your own by glueing some DPC onto celotex (not sure if BCO would
approve).
Simon.