HI All
There's a known problem with the multi-tapped resistor that provides
heater blower speed control on my Pug 307sw. The resistor pack plugs
into the wiring loom, and, under certain conditions or over time, one
pin of the loom socket can overheat and the electrical connection is lost.

There's a replacement 'loom-end' available - socket to bare-ended wires
- and the fix is to cut off the original melted socket & splice the new
loom-end onto the original wires.
Parts are on order -
http://www.heaterblowerresistor.co.u...rresistor.html

Trouble is - the original loom is so short that getting my conventional
ratchet crimp up behind the dashboard to make a decent crimp is going to
be 'challenging'. Same would go for soldering.

I was wondering about the possible alternatives...?
Choc-bloc / terminal block seems a bit of a bodge in a vibration-prone
automotive environment, but would the Wago 221's be up to the job - I've
never used them before?

http://www.ebay.ie/itm/WAGO-221-seri... YYb3MGJguStQA

Thanks
Adrian

On 05/10/2016 21:55, Adrian Brentnall wrote:
HI All
There's a known problem with the multi-tapped resistor that provides
heater blower speed control on my Pug 307sw. The resistor pack plugs
into the wiring loom, and, under certain conditions or over time, one
pin of the loom socket can overheat and the electrical connection is lost.

There's a replacement 'loom-end' available - socket to bare-ended wires
- and the fix is to cut off the original melted socket & splice the new
loom-end onto the original wires.
Parts are on order -
http://www.heaterblowerresistor.co.u...rresistor.html

Trouble is - the original loom is so short that getting my conventional
ratchet crimp up behind the dashboard to make a decent crimp is going to
be 'challenging'. Same would go for soldering.

I was wondering about the possible alternatives...?
Choc-bloc / terminal block seems a bit of a bodge in a vibration-prone
automotive environment, but would the Wago 221's be up to the job - I've
never used them before?

http://www.ebay.ie/itm/WAGO-221-seri... YYb3MGJguStQA


Thanks
Adrian


I've used
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2221821947...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

You don't strip the wire - just place two wires in the holder - use a
pair of piers to press the metal part of the connectors into the wire -
close the lid and lock it down.

The original branding for this type of connector was "Scotch Lock"
Instructional video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GJn-8cRkk-s

--
mailto: news {at} admac {dot] myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

on 05/10/2016, alan_m supposed :
On 05/10/2016 21:55, Adrian Brentnall wrote:
HI All
There's a known problem with the multi-tapped resistor that provides
heater blower speed control on my Pug 307sw. The resistor pack plugs
into the wiring loom, and, under certain conditions or over time, one
pin of the loom socket can overheat and the electrical connection is lost.

There's a replacement 'loom-end' available - socket to bare-ended wires
- and the fix is to cut off the original melted socket & splice the new
loom-end onto the original wires.
Parts are on order -
http://www.heaterblowerresistor.co.u...rresistor.html

Trouble is - the original loom is so short that getting my conventional
ratchet crimp up behind the dashboard to make a decent crimp is going to
be 'challenging'. Same would go for soldering.

I was wondering about the possible alternatives...?
Choc-bloc / terminal block seems a bit of a bodge in a vibration-prone
automotive environment, but would the Wago 221's be up to the job - I've
never used them before?

http://www.ebay.ie/itm/WAGO-221-seri... YYb3MGJguStQA


Thanks
Adrian


I've used
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2221821947...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

You don't strip the wire - just place two wires in the holder - use a pair of
piers to press the metal part of the connectors into the wire - close the lid
and lock it down.

The original branding for this type of connector was "Scotch Lock"
Instructional video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GJn-8cRkk-s

Trouble is, they don't usually provide a very good low resistance
connection, so the connection might generate heat.

A good soldered joint is best, followed by a properly crimped
connection.

Adrian Brentnall wrote:
HI All
There's a known problem with the multi-tapped resistor that provides
heater blower speed control on my Pug 307sw. The resistor pack plugs
into the wiring loom, and, under certain conditions or over time, one
pin of the loom socket can overheat and the electrical connection is lost.

There's a replacement 'loom-end' available - socket to bare-ended wires
- and the fix is to cut off the original melted socket & splice the new
loom-end onto the original wires.
Parts are on order -
http://www.heaterblowerresistor.co.u...rresistor.html

Trouble is - the original loom is so short that getting my conventional
ratchet crimp up behind the dashboard to make a decent crimp is going to
be 'challenging'. Same would go for soldering.

I was wondering about the possible alternatives...?
Choc-bloc / terminal block seems a bit of a bodge in a vibration-prone
automotive environment, but would the Wago 221's be up to the job - I've
never used them before?

http://www.ebay.ie/itm/WAGO-221-seri... YYb3MGJguStQA


Thanks
Adrian

I don't know what they're called, but how about the red/blue/yellow
crimped things? I use them as a last resort when there's only room for
finger tips and a crimper.

On 05/10/2016 22:42, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
on 05/10/2016, alan_m supposed :
On 05/10/2016 21:55, Adrian Brentnall wrote:
HI All
There's a known problem with the multi-tapped resistor that provides
heater blower speed control on my Pug 307sw. The resistor pack plugs
into the wiring loom, and, under certain conditions or over time, one
pin of the loom socket can overheat and the electrical connection is
lost.

There's a replacement 'loom-end' available - socket to bare-ended wires
- and the fix is to cut off the original melted socket & splice the new
loom-end onto the original wires.
Parts are on order -
http://www.heaterblowerresistor.co.u...rresistor.html

Trouble is - the original loom is so short that getting my conventional
ratchet crimp up behind the dashboard to make a decent crimp is going to
be 'challenging'. Same would go for soldering.

I was wondering about the possible alternatives...?
Choc-bloc / terminal block seems a bit of a bodge in a vibration-prone
automotive environment, but would the Wago 221's be up to the job - I've
never used them before?

http://www.ebay.ie/itm/WAGO-221-seri... YYb3MGJguStQA



Thanks
Adrian


I've used
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2221821947...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


You don't strip the wire - just place two wires in the holder - use a
pair of piers to press the metal part of the connectors into the wire
- close the lid and lock it down.

The original branding for this type of connector was "Scotch Lock"
Instructional video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GJn-8cRkk-s

Trouble is, they don't usually provide a very good low resistance
connection, so the connection might generate heat.

A good soldered joint is best, followed by a properly crimped connection.

I don't know how much current the heater blower takes, but I've used
Scotch-locks extensively for connecting trailer wiring without any
problems. If the blue ones are not man enough, there are also heavy duty
brown ones.
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

On 05/10/2016 22:21, alan_m wrote:
On 05/10/2016 21:55, Adrian Brentnall wrote:
HI All
There's a known problem with the multi-tapped resistor that provides
heater blower speed control on my Pug 307sw. The resistor pack plugs
into the wiring loom, and, under certain conditions or over time, one
pin of the loom socket can overheat and the electrical connection is
lost.

There's a replacement 'loom-end' available - socket to bare-ended wires
- and the fix is to cut off the original melted socket & splice the new
loom-end onto the original wires.
Parts are on order -
http://www.heaterblowerresistor.co.u...rresistor.html

Trouble is - the original loom is so short that getting my conventional
ratchet crimp up behind the dashboard to make a decent crimp is going to
be 'challenging'. Same would go for soldering.

I was wondering about the possible alternatives...?
Choc-bloc / terminal block seems a bit of a bodge in a vibration-prone
automotive environment, but would the Wago 221's be up to the job - I've
never used them before?

http://www.ebay.ie/itm/WAGO-221-seri... YYb3MGJguStQA



Thanks
Adrian


I've used
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2221821947...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


You don't strip the wire - just place two wires in the holder - use a
pair of piers to press the metal part of the connectors into the wire -
close the lid and lock it down.

The original branding for this type of connector was "Scotch Lock"
Instructional video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GJn-8cRkk-s

Yes - thanks.
I thought of them, but they're almost as awkard as getting the ratchet
crimper in there... though I suppose there's a little bit more leeway in
the alignment of the two cables.

On 05/10/2016 22:42, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
on 05/10/2016, alan_m supposed :
On 05/10/2016 21:55, Adrian Brentnall wrote:
HI All
There's a known problem with the multi-tapped resistor that provides
heater blower speed control on my Pug 307sw. The resistor pack plugs
into the wiring loom, and, under certain conditions or over time, one
pin of the loom socket can overheat and the electrical connection is
lost.

There's a replacement 'loom-end' available - socket to bare-ended wires
- and the fix is to cut off the original melted socket & splice the new
loom-end onto the original wires.
Parts are on order -
http://www.heaterblowerresistor.co.u...rresistor.html

Trouble is - the original loom is so short that getting my conventional
ratchet crimp up behind the dashboard to make a decent crimp is going to
be 'challenging'. Same would go for soldering.

I was wondering about the possible alternatives...?
Choc-bloc / terminal block seems a bit of a bodge in a vibration-prone
automotive environment, but would the Wago 221's be up to the job - I've
never used them before?

http://www.ebay.ie/itm/WAGO-221-seri... YYb3MGJguStQA



Thanks
Adrian


I've used
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2221821947...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


You don't strip the wire - just place two wires in the holder - use a
pair of piers to press the metal part of the connectors into the wire
- close the lid and lock it down.

The original branding for this type of connector was "Scotch Lock"
Instructional video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GJn-8cRkk-s

Trouble is, they don't usually provide a very good low resistance
connection, so the connection might generate heat.

Understood - I don;t want to create a new problem while solving this one!

A good soldered joint is best, followed by a properly crimped connection.

Yes - I know that - it's just the practicality of achieving either in
the limited space that's available up under the dashboard.
If it was all out in the open then I'd solder / heatshrink..

There was some talk on the Pug forums about gaining more length on the
end of the loom by unplugging the fan connections, I might look into
that once the parts arrive.

Thanks
Adrian

On 05/10/2016 22:58, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
Adrian Brentnall wrote:
HI All
There's a known problem with the multi-tapped resistor that provides
heater blower speed control on my Pug 307sw. The resistor pack plugs
into the wiring loom, and, under certain conditions or over time, one
pin of the loom socket can overheat and the electrical connection is
lost.

There's a replacement 'loom-end' available - socket to bare-ended wires
- and the fix is to cut off the original melted socket & splice the new
loom-end onto the original wires.
Parts are on order -
http://www.heaterblowerresistor.co.u...rresistor.html

Trouble is - the original loom is so short that getting my conventional
ratchet crimp up behind the dashboard to make a decent crimp is going to
be 'challenging'. Same would go for soldering.

I was wondering about the possible alternatives...?
Choc-bloc / terminal block seems a bit of a bodge in a vibration-prone
automotive environment, but would the Wago 221's be up to the job - I've
never used them before?

http://www.ebay.ie/itm/WAGO-221-seri... YYb3MGJguStQA



Thanks
Adrian

I don't know what they're called, but how about the red/blue/yellow
crimped things? I use them as a last resort when there's only room for
finger tips and a crimper.

'Crimps' - I think?
Got a box-full of those and a good ratchet crimper, just not sure I've
got room to get the crimper & two hands into the space available.
It's one of those, 'lying upside-down with your feet on the pedals,
reaching up behind the dash' situations...

I was thinking that the Wago (if they'd do the job) would at least allow
a second attempt, if one missed the first time!
Thanks
Adrian

On 06/10/2016 00:10, Roger Mills wrote:
On 05/10/2016 22:42, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
on 05/10/2016, alan_m supposed :
On 05/10/2016 21:55, Adrian Brentnall wrote:
HI All
There's a known problem with the multi-tapped resistor that provides
heater blower speed control on my Pug 307sw. The resistor pack plugs
into the wiring loom, and, under certain conditions or over time, one
pin of the loom socket can overheat and the electrical connection is
lost.

There's a replacement 'loom-end' available - socket to bare-ended wires
- and the fix is to cut off the original melted socket & splice the new
loom-end onto the original wires.
Parts are on order -
http://www.heaterblowerresistor.co.u...rresistor.html

Trouble is - the original loom is so short that getting my conventional
ratchet crimp up behind the dashboard to make a decent crimp is
going to
be 'challenging'. Same would go for soldering.

I was wondering about the possible alternatives...?
Choc-bloc / terminal block seems a bit of a bodge in a vibration-prone
automotive environment, but would the Wago 221's be up to the job -
I've
never used them before?

http://www.ebay.ie/itm/WAGO-221-seri... YYb3MGJguStQA




Thanks
Adrian


I've used
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2221821947...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT



You don't strip the wire - just place two wires in the holder - use a
pair of piers to press the metal part of the connectors into the wire
- close the lid and lock it down.

The original branding for this type of connector was "Scotch Lock"
Instructional video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GJn-8cRkk-s

Trouble is, they don't usually provide a very good low resistance
connection, so the connection might generate heat.

A good soldered joint is best, followed by a properly crimped connection.

I don't know how much current the heater blower takes, but I've used
Scotch-locks extensively for connecting trailer wiring without any
problems. If the blue ones are not man enough, there are also heavy duty
brown ones.

There's other ('after-market') high-current wiring in the car already
done with the blue Scotchlock connectors. Wouldn't imagine that the
blower's taking much more than 10A or so?

Again, access for the pliers to 'crimp' the connection may be difficult.
Would love to meet up with the engineer who designed / specced this
horrible installation, and I'd certainly use my ratchet crimpers then!g

Thanks
Adrian

On 05/10/16 21:55, Adrian Brentnall wrote:
HI All
There's a known problem with the multi-tapped resistor that provides
heater blower speed control on my Pug 307sw. The resistor pack plugs
into the wiring loom, and, under certain conditions or over time, one
pin of the loom socket can overheat and the electrical connection is lost.

There's a replacement 'loom-end' available - socket to bare-ended wires
- and the fix is to cut off the original melted socket & splice the new
loom-end onto the original wires.
Parts are on order -
http://www.heaterblowerresistor.co.u...rresistor.html

Trouble is - the original loom is so short that getting my conventional
ratchet crimp up behind the dashboard to make a decent crimp is going to
be 'challenging'. Same would go for soldering.

I was wondering about the possible alternatives...?
Choc-bloc / terminal block seems a bit of a bodge in a vibration-prone
automotive environment, but would the Wago 221's be up to the job - I've
never used them before?

http://www.ebay.ie/itm/WAGO-221-seri... YYb3MGJguStQA


Thanks
Adrian

20A Wagos:

https://eshop.wago.com/JPBC/0_5Start...=WAGO01&zone=7

32A

https://eshop.wago.com/JPBC/0_5StartPage.jsp?zone=6

I'd use the latter without a second thought in a car:

1) They are suitable for stranded wire;

2) They are resistant to vibration;

3) Well shielded - the sheath goes into the connector some mm, no change
of accidental shorts.

On 06/10/2016 08:22, Tim Watts wrote:
On 05/10/16 21:55, Adrian Brentnall wrote:
HI All
There's a known problem with the multi-tapped resistor that provides
heater blower speed control on my Pug 307sw. The resistor pack plugs
into the wiring loom, and, under certain conditions or over time, one
pin of the loom socket can overheat and the electrical connection is
lost.

There's a replacement 'loom-end' available - socket to bare-ended wires
- and the fix is to cut off the original melted socket & splice the new
loom-end onto the original wires.
Parts are on order -
http://www.heaterblowerresistor.co.u...rresistor.html

Trouble is - the original loom is so short that getting my conventional
ratchet crimp up behind the dashboard to make a decent crimp is going to
be 'challenging'. Same would go for soldering.

I was wondering about the possible alternatives...?
Choc-bloc / terminal block seems a bit of a bodge in a vibration-prone
automotive environment, but would the Wago 221's be up to the job - I've
never used them before?

http://www.ebay.ie/itm/WAGO-221-seri... YYb3MGJguStQA



Thanks
Adrian

20A Wagos:

https://eshop.wago.com/JPBC/0_5Start...=WAGO01&zone=7


32A

https://eshop.wago.com/JPBC/0_5StartPage.jsp?zone=6

I'd use the latter without a second thought in a car:

1) They are suitable for stranded wire;

2) They are resistant to vibration;

3) Well shielded - the sheath goes into the connector some mm, no change
of accidental shorts.

Thanks. I'd thought the 20A ones would do the job. There's 5 wires in
all, so I don;t want to end up with too big a 'bundle' of connectors.
Are the 32A ones bigger, physically?
Thanks
Adrian

On 06/10/16 08:38, Adrian Brentnall wrote:
On 06/10/2016 08:22, Tim Watts wrote:
On 05/10/16 21:55, Adrian Brentnall wrote:
HI All
There's a known problem with the multi-tapped resistor that provides
heater blower speed control on my Pug 307sw. The resistor pack plugs
into the wiring loom, and, under certain conditions or over time, one
pin of the loom socket can overheat and the electrical connection is
lost.

There's a replacement 'loom-end' available - socket to bare-ended wires
- and the fix is to cut off the original melted socket & splice the new
loom-end onto the original wires.
Parts are on order -
http://www.heaterblowerresistor.co.u...rresistor.html

Trouble is - the original loom is so short that getting my conventional
ratchet crimp up behind the dashboard to make a decent crimp is going to
be 'challenging'. Same would go for soldering.

I was wondering about the possible alternatives...?
Choc-bloc / terminal block seems a bit of a bodge in a vibration-prone
automotive environment, but would the Wago 221's be up to the job - I've
never used them before?

http://www.ebay.ie/itm/WAGO-221-seri... YYb3MGJguStQA




Thanks
Adrian

20A Wagos:

https://eshop.wago.com/JPBC/0_5Start...=WAGO01&zone=7



32A

https://eshop.wago.com/JPBC/0_5StartPage.jsp?zone=6

I'd use the latter without a second thought in a car:

1) They are suitable for stranded wire;

2) They are resistant to vibration;

3) Well shielded - the sheath goes into the connector some mm, no change
of accidental shorts.

Thanks. I'd thought the 20A ones would do the job. There's 5 wires in
all, so I don;t want to end up with too big a 'bundle' of connectors.
Are the 32A ones bigger, physically?
Thanks
Adrian

A bit - but the 2-ways are more compact than a 2 way choc block strip.

Given it's a blower plus cars can get damp, I'd over engineer and go for
the 32A ones if it were me

After serious thinking Roger Mills wrote :
I don't know how much current the heater blower takes, but I've used
Scotch-locks extensively for connecting trailer wiring without any problems.
If the blue ones are not man enough, there are also heavy duty brown ones.

If ever I come across any wiring in a car using those and there has
been a problem, my first suspicion is those connectors - having come
across such many times. They are very amateur, they damage the existing
cable and any moisture is given a direct route to cause further damage
to the copper.

Heater blowers can take a considerable current, mine can draw 30amps,
so good reliable connections are essential. All cars using resistors to
control the fan speed seem to have problems eventually. I'm fortunate,
my own uses a PWM speed controller - much more efficient and no heat
generated.

On 06/10/2016 09:09, Tim Watts wrote:
On 06/10/16 08:38, Adrian Brentnall wrote:
On 06/10/2016 08:22, Tim Watts wrote:
On 05/10/16 21:55, Adrian Brentnall wrote:
HI All
There's a known problem with the multi-tapped resistor that provides
heater blower speed control on my Pug 307sw. The resistor pack plugs
into the wiring loom, and, under certain conditions or over time, one
pin of the loom socket can overheat and the electrical connection is
lost.

There's a replacement 'loom-end' available - socket to bare-ended wires
- and the fix is to cut off the original melted socket & splice the new
loom-end onto the original wires.
Parts are on order -
http://www.heaterblowerresistor.co.u...rresistor.html

Trouble is - the original loom is so short that getting my conventional
ratchet crimp up behind the dashboard to make a decent crimp is
going to
be 'challenging'. Same would go for soldering.

I was wondering about the possible alternatives...?
Choc-bloc / terminal block seems a bit of a bodge in a vibration-prone
automotive environment, but would the Wago 221's be up to the job -
I've
never used them before?

http://www.ebay.ie/itm/WAGO-221-seri... YYb3MGJguStQA





Thanks
Adrian

20A Wagos:

https://eshop.wago.com/JPBC/0_5Start...=WAGO01&zone=7




32A

https://eshop.wago.com/JPBC/0_5StartPage.jsp?zone=6

I'd use the latter without a second thought in a car:

1) They are suitable for stranded wire;

2) They are resistant to vibration;

3) Well shielded - the sheath goes into the connector some mm, no change
of accidental shorts.

Thanks. I'd thought the 20A ones would do the job. There's 5 wires in
all, so I don;t want to end up with too big a 'bundle' of connectors.
Are the 32A ones bigger, physically?
Thanks
Adrian

A bit - but the 2-ways are more compact than a 2 way choc block strip.

Given it's a blower plus cars can get damp, I'd over engineer and go for
the 32A ones if it were me

I agree! Just ordered a bunch of 2-way and 3-way connectors.
Thanks!
Adrian

Adrian Brentnall wrote:
On 05/10/2016 22:58, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
Adrian Brentnall wrote:
HI All
There's a known problem with the multi-tapped resistor that provides
heater blower speed control on my Pug 307sw. The resistor pack plugs
into the wiring loom, and, under certain conditions or over time, one
pin of the loom socket can overheat and the electrical connection is
lost.

There's a replacement 'loom-end' available - socket to bare-ended wires
- and the fix is to cut off the original melted socket & splice the new
loom-end onto the original wires.
Parts are on order -
http://www.heaterblowerresistor.co.u...rresistor.html

Trouble is - the original loom is so short that getting my conventional
ratchet crimp up behind the dashboard to make a decent crimp is going to
be 'challenging'. Same would go for soldering.

I was wondering about the possible alternatives...?
Choc-bloc / terminal block seems a bit of a bodge in a vibration-prone
automotive environment, but would the Wago 221's be up to the job - I've
never used them before?

http://www.ebay.ie/itm/WAGO-221-seri... YYb3MGJguStQA




Thanks
Adrian

I don't know what they're called, but how about the red/blue/yellow
crimped things? I use them as a last resort when there's only room for
finger tips and a crimper.

'Crimps' - I think?
Got a box-full of those and a good ratchet crimper, just not sure I've
got room to get the crimper & two hands into the space available.
It's one of those, 'lying upside-down with your feet on the pedals,
reaching up behind the dash' situations...

Ah, right, this is the 'ratchet crimper' you already mentioned. Mine
isn't a ratchet type (which made me think you weren't referring to these
connectors) - it's a cheaper one with a small nose that gets into tight
spaces quite easily.

If you can get a choc block in there, you might try folding the stripped
wires back against the sleeve first - I think that helps stop them
coming undone, and prevents crushing the wire too much.

I was thinking that the Wago (if they'd do the job) would at least allow
a second attempt, if one missed the first time!
Thanks
Adrian

On 06/10/2016 09:42, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
After serious thinking Roger Mills wrote :
I don't know how much current the heater blower takes, but I've used
Scotch-locks extensively for connecting trailer wiring without any
problems. If the blue ones are not man enough, there are also heavy
duty brown ones.

If ever I come across any wiring in a car using those and there has been
a problem, my first suspicion is those connectors - having come across
such many times. They are very amateur, they damage the existing cable
and any moisture is given a direct route to cause further damage to the
copper.

Yes - they do seem a bit 'rough'.... wouldn't be my 1st choice of
connector..

Heater blowers can take a considerable current, mine can draw 30amps, so
good reliable connections are essential. All cars using resistors to
control the fan speed seem to have problems eventually. I'm fortunate,
my own uses a PWM speed controller - much more efficient and no heat
generated.

PWM would be the more elegant way to go.
From reading on the 'net, there's lots of people with the same problem.
In this particular case - two of the 5 connections on the multi-tapped
wire-wound resistor are common, and the full fan current runs in on one
of them & out on the other (through the common connection), which then
gets hot. The plastic mount gets soggy, so does the multi-way connector,
which makes for an even worse connection etc etc. One end of my
connector has just melted...

One suggestion for improvement is to make the common connection actually
_in_ the wiring loom - so I bought some 2-way and 3-way Waco connections
to make this possible. This way, the heavy current is handled by the
loom, and not via the tiny plug connector.

Having designed this monstrosity. Pug then decided that they'd better
find some way of cooling it (!) - so it fits into the airflow duct,
upstream of the fan - which is why it's such a pain to access!

What fun!
Adrian

On 06/10/2016 09:54, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
Adrian Brentnall wrote:
On 05/10/2016 22:58, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
Adrian Brentnall wrote:
HI All
There's a known problem with the multi-tapped resistor that provides
heater blower speed control on my Pug 307sw. The resistor pack plugs
into the wiring loom, and, under certain conditions or over time, one
pin of the loom socket can overheat and the electrical connection is
lost.

There's a replacement 'loom-end' available - socket to bare-ended wires
- and the fix is to cut off the original melted socket & splice the new
loom-end onto the original wires.
Parts are on order -
http://www.heaterblowerresistor.co.u...rresistor.html

Trouble is - the original loom is so short that getting my conventional
ratchet crimp up behind the dashboard to make a decent crimp is
going to
be 'challenging'. Same would go for soldering.

I was wondering about the possible alternatives...?
Choc-bloc / terminal block seems a bit of a bodge in a vibration-prone
automotive environment, but would the Wago 221's be up to the job -
I've
never used them before?

http://www.ebay.ie/itm/WAGO-221-seri... YYb3MGJguStQA





Thanks
Adrian

I don't know what they're called, but how about the red/blue/yellow
crimped things? I use them as a last resort when there's only room for
finger tips and a crimper.

'Crimps' - I think?
Got a box-full of those and a good ratchet crimper, just not sure I've
got room to get the crimper & two hands into the space available.
It's one of those, 'lying upside-down with your feet on the pedals,
reaching up behind the dash' situations...

Ah, right, this is the 'ratchet crimper' you already mentioned. Mine
isn't a ratchet type (which made me think you weren't referring to these
connectors) - it's a cheaper one with a small nose that gets into tight
spaces quite easily.

Same type of jaws, just a bit more reliable (allegedly). But bulkier.
While I'm at it I must re-do the crimped Lucars onto the fan itself -
looks like somebody crimped those using a hampster!


If you can get a choc block in there, you might try folding the stripped
wires back against the sleeve first - I think that helps stop them
coming undone, and prevents crushing the wire too much.

I think you'll start a 'holy war' with suggestions like that!
I think Wago's the way to go...
Thanks
Adrian

Adrian Brentnall wrote:
On 06/10/2016 09:54, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
Adrian Brentnall wrote:
On 05/10/2016 22:58, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
Adrian Brentnall wrote:
HI All
There's a known problem with the multi-tapped resistor that provides
heater blower speed control on my Pug 307sw. The resistor pack plugs
into the wiring loom, and, under certain conditions or over time, one
pin of the loom socket can overheat and the electrical connection is
lost.

There's a replacement 'loom-end' available - socket to bare-ended
wires
- and the fix is to cut off the original melted socket & splice the
new
loom-end onto the original wires.
Parts are on order -
http://www.heaterblowerresistor.co.u...rresistor.html

Trouble is - the original loom is so short that getting my
conventional
ratchet crimp up behind the dashboard to make a decent crimp is
going to
be 'challenging'. Same would go for soldering.

I was wondering about the possible alternatives...?
Choc-bloc / terminal block seems a bit of a bodge in a vibration-prone
automotive environment, but would the Wago 221's be up to the job -
I've
never used them before?

http://www.ebay.ie/itm/WAGO-221-seri... YYb3MGJguStQA






Thanks
Adrian

I don't know what they're called, but how about the red/blue/yellow
crimped things? I use them as a last resort when there's only room for
finger tips and a crimper.

'Crimps' - I think?
Got a box-full of those and a good ratchet crimper, just not sure I've
got room to get the crimper & two hands into the space available.
It's one of those, 'lying upside-down with your feet on the pedals,
reaching up behind the dash' situations...

Ah, right, this is the 'ratchet crimper' you already mentioned. Mine
isn't a ratchet type (which made me think you weren't referring to these
connectors) - it's a cheaper one with a small nose that gets into tight
spaces quite easily.

Same type of jaws, just a bit more reliable (allegedly). But bulkier.
While I'm at it I must re-do the crimped Lucars onto the fan itself -
looks like somebody crimped those using a hampster!


If you can get a choc block in there, you might try folding the stripped
wires back against the sleeve first - I think that helps stop them
coming undone, and prevents crushing the wire too much.

I think you'll start a 'holy war' with suggestions like that!
I think Wago's the way to go...
Thanks
Adrian

I only mentioned it because you'd already had :-) My own choc blocks
now lie pretty much unused, now that there are so many alternatives
easily available (how the internet has changed things!). But I think if
you prepare the wires correctly, I'd use them if I had to.

Personally, I'd probably be trying to extend what bit of wire is left by
soldering some more on, then pushing rubber sleeves over the join.

On 06/10/2016 10:25, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
Adrian Brentnall wrote:
On 06/10/2016 09:54, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
Adrian Brentnall wrote:
On 05/10/2016 22:58, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
Adrian Brentnall wrote:
HI All
There's a known problem with the multi-tapped resistor that provides
heater blower speed control on my Pug 307sw. The resistor pack plugs
into the wiring loom, and, under certain conditions or over time, one
pin of the loom socket can overheat and the electrical connection is
lost.

There's a replacement 'loom-end' available - socket to bare-ended
wires
- and the fix is to cut off the original melted socket & splice the
new
loom-end onto the original wires.
Parts are on order -
http://www.heaterblowerresistor.co.u...rresistor.html


Trouble is - the original loom is so short that getting my
conventional
ratchet crimp up behind the dashboard to make a decent crimp is
going to
be 'challenging'. Same would go for soldering.

I was wondering about the possible alternatives...?
Choc-bloc / terminal block seems a bit of a bodge in a
vibration-prone
automotive environment, but would the Wago 221's be up to the job -
I've
never used them before?

http://www.ebay.ie/itm/WAGO-221-seri... YYb3MGJguStQA







Thanks
Adrian

I don't know what they're called, but how about the red/blue/yellow
crimped things? I use them as a last resort when there's only room
for
finger tips and a crimper.

'Crimps' - I think?
Got a box-full of those and a good ratchet crimper, just not sure I've
got room to get the crimper & two hands into the space available.
It's one of those, 'lying upside-down with your feet on the pedals,
reaching up behind the dash' situations...

Ah, right, this is the 'ratchet crimper' you already mentioned. Mine
isn't a ratchet type (which made me think you weren't referring to these
connectors) - it's a cheaper one with a small nose that gets into tight
spaces quite easily.

Same type of jaws, just a bit more reliable (allegedly). But bulkier.
While I'm at it I must re-do the crimped Lucars onto the fan itself -
looks like somebody crimped those using a hampster!


If you can get a choc block in there, you might try folding the stripped
wires back against the sleeve first - I think that helps stop them
coming undone, and prevents crushing the wire too much.

I think you'll start a 'holy war' with suggestions like that!
I think Wago's the way to go...
Thanks
Adrian

I only mentioned it because you'd already had :-) My own choc blocks
now lie pretty much unused, now that there are so many alternatives
easily available (how the internet has changed things!). But I think if
you prepare the wires correctly, I'd use them if I had to.

Personally, I'd probably be trying to extend what bit of wire is left by
soldering some more on, then pushing rubber sleeves over the join.

Yes - 'twould be ideal.
Access is the problem, don't much fancy lying on my back with my head in
the footwell trying to solder just above my nose!
I think Wagos will do fine.. but thanks for the comments.

Just got to wait for the bits to arrive...
Could do with a working heater recently, hovering around the 12c mark at
the moment here in West Cork and it's only going to get colder!
Roll on summer g
Thanks
Adrian

On Thursday, 6 October 2016 09:54:52 UTC+1, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:

If you can get a choc block in there, you might try folding the stripped
wires back against the sleeve first - I think that helps stop them
coming undone, and prevents crushing the wire too much.

If you want to guarantee failure, go for it.


NT

In article ,
Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
I don't know what they're called, but how about the red/blue/yellow
crimped things? I use them as a last resort when there's only room for
finger tips and a crimper.

And those horrid things are even more likely to cause a poor connection on
a car at high power than anything else.

Use a correct car connector properly crimped.

--
*Reality is a crutch for people who can't handle drugs.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

wrote:
On Thursday, 6 October 2016 09:54:52 UTC+1, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:

If you can get a choc block in there, you might try folding the stripped
wires back against the sleeve first - I think that helps stop them
coming undone, and prevents crushing the wire too much.

If you want to guarantee failure, go for it.


NT


Adrian said it would start a holy war :-) But I've never had them fail
since I learned to prepare them in a particular way. Like I say, I only
mentioned them because he seemed to be considering them - I wouldn't
suggest them otherwise. I was just sort of saying that you have to
prepare them carefully if you are going to try it.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
I don't know what they're called, but how about the red/blue/yellow
crimped things? I use them as a last resort when there's only room for
finger tips and a crimper.

And those horrid things are even more likely to cause a poor connection on
a car at high power than anything else.

Use a correct car connector properly crimped.


I did say as a last resort. It sounded like the OP was unable to use
the 'correct' connector.

On 06/10/2016 09:42, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
After serious thinking Roger Mills wrote :
I don't know how much current the heater blower takes, but I've used
Scotch-locks extensively for connecting trailer wiring without any
problems. If the blue ones are not man enough, there are also heavy
duty brown ones.

If ever I come across any wiring in a car using those and there has been
a problem, my first suspicion is those connectors - having come across
such many times. They are very amateur, they damage the existing cable
and any moisture is given a direct route to cause further damage to the
copper.

Maybe, but its the same type of connector technology used in most
peoples homes for telephone connections and used a lot to join ribbon
cable to connectors in computers etc. - albeit mainly low power
connections.



--
mailto: news {at} admac {dot] myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

Dan S. MacAbre submitted this idea :
If you can get a choc block in there, you might try folding the stripped
wires back against the sleeve first - I think that helps stop them coming
undone, and prevents crushing the wire too much.

Sorry, but I would not advise that. The plastic insulation can migrate
under the constant pressure and leave you with a loose poor connection.

I would not disagree particularly with the use of choc-blocks to make
the joint. What I would suggest though is use a choc-block large enough
to allow the strands to fully over lap, so the strands from both sides
are caught by both screws. Current does not then have to pass through
the metal part of the connector, it can pass straight from copper to
copper via the over-lap.

On Thursday, 6 October 2016 11:09:33 UTC+1, Adrian Brentnall wrote:
On 06/10/2016 10:25, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:

Personally, I'd probably be trying to extend what bit of wire is left by
soldering some more on, then pushing rubber sleeves over the join.

Yes - 'twould be ideal.
Access is the problem, don't much fancy lying on my back with my head in
the footwell trying to solder just above my nose!

With goggles & tinfoil on face it should be pretty quick.

I think Wagos will do fine.. but thanks for the comments.


NT

Harry Bloomfield wrote:
Dan S. MacAbre submitted this idea :
If you can get a choc block in there, you might try folding the
stripped wires back against the sleeve first - I think that helps stop
them coming undone, and prevents crushing the wire too much.

Sorry, but I would not advise that. The plastic insulation can migrate
under the constant pressure and leave you with a loose poor connection.

Yes, I suppose you have to get it just right, with enough of the wire in
there to stop it backing out. I started doing it with mains plugs (in
the days when you regularly fitted them yourself, and had to
occasionally attend to them), because I often found them with frayed
wire inside. Bending the wires down, and screwing down onto the sheath
was something I always found reliable. Hard to describe exactly, though.

I would not disagree particularly with the use of choc-blocks to make
the joint. What I would suggest though is use a choc-block large enough
to allow the strands to fully over lap, so the strands from both sides
are caught by both screws. Current does not then have to pass through
the metal part of the connector, it can pass straight from copper to
copper via the over-lap.

Yes, I'll do that if I can. Not always easy with thin stranded wire,
but it means you have two screws holding the wire, instead of just one,
and maybe don't need to crush so much. I once did an emergency repair
on a car clutch cable with one of these, and it allowed us to finish a
touring holiday. So you might say I have a bit of a soft spot for them :-)

On Thursday, 6 October 2016 16:23:49 UTC+1, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
Harry Bloomfield wrote:
Dan S. MacAbre submitted this idea :

If you can get a choc block in there, you might try folding the
stripped wires back against the sleeve first - I think that helps stop
them coming undone, and prevents crushing the wire too much.

Sorry, but I would not advise that. The plastic insulation can migrate
under the constant pressure and leave you with a loose poor connection.

Yes, I suppose you have to get it just right, with enough of the wire in
there to stop it backing out. I started doing it with mains plugs (in
the days when you regularly fitted them yourself, and had to
occasionally attend to them), because I often found them with frayed
wire inside. Bending the wires down, and screwing down onto the sheath
was something I always found reliable.

It's a fire risk


NT

On 06/10/2016 15:32, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
Dan S. MacAbre submitted this idea :
If you can get a choc block in there, you might try folding the
stripped wires back against the sleeve first - I think that helps stop
them coming undone, and prevents crushing the wire too much.

Sorry, but I would not advise that. The plastic insulation can migrate
under the constant pressure and leave you with a loose poor connection.

I would not disagree particularly with the use of choc-blocks to make
the joint. What I would suggest though is use a choc-block large enough
to allow the strands to fully over lap, so the strands from both sides
are caught by both screws. Current does not then have to pass through
the metal part of the connector, it can pass straight from copper to
copper via the over-lap.

Following up my original post about replacing a failed wiring loom which
prevents the heater fan from operating on a Peugeot 307sw - the new
speed control resistor & loom end arrived today.
RS hadn't delivered the Wago connectors by lunchtime - so I ended up
using some heavy-duty blue crimp-on bullet connectors instead.

If any poor soul is going to attempt this repair, it's made a tiny bit
easier by unclipping the wiring loom that connects to the speed control
switch, and unplugging the two wires that go to the heater fan - but
tape something on to them so you can retrieve them later. Gently easing
the resistor end of the loom down will give you just enough room to get
a crimp tool onto the cut-back ends of the loom. It's then relatively
easy to feed the whole lot back up through the 'recirculation' air vent,
and give it a quarter-twist to lock it into position.

If you don;t have arms like a gibbon and hands the size of a
five-year-old then it's not quite so easy. Grr!

I think my local mechanic must have been getting a bit tired when he
gave up on the job, 'cos after reassembly the fan was spinning but not
blowing a lot. Swapping the polarity on the connections to the fan
resulted in a fan that blows rather than sucks!

Apart from a bit of a 'hot' smell for the first 10 mins while the new
resistor baked itself clean - all now seems good!

Now for the air-con!
Adrian

Following up my original post about replacing a failed wiring loom which
prevents the heater fan from operating on a Peugeot 307sw - the new
speed control resistor & loom end arrived today.
RS hadn't delivered the Wago connectors by lunchtime - so I ended up
using some heavy-duty blue crimp-on bullet connectors instead.

If any poor soul is going to attempt this repair, it's made a tiny bit
easier by unclipping the wiring loom that connects to the speed control
switch, and unplugging the two wires that go to the heater fan - but
tape something on to them so you can retrieve them later. Gently easing
the resistor end of the loom down will give you just enough room to get
a crimp tool onto the cut-back ends of the loom. It's then relatively
easy to feed the whole lot back up through the 'recirculation' air vent,
and give it a quarter-twist to lock it into position.

If you don;t have arms like a gibbon and hands the size of a
five-year-old then it's not quite so easy. Grr!

I think my local mechanic must have been getting a bit tired when he
gave up on the job, 'cos after reassembly the fan was spinning but not
blowing a lot. Swapping the polarity on the connections to the fan
resulted in a fan that blows rather than sucks!

Apart from a bit of a 'hot' smell for the first 10 mins while the new
resistor baked itself clean - all now seems good!

Now for the air-con!
Adrian


You are of course using Ratchet crimpers not those cheapie ones?...
--
Tony Sayer

On 11/10/2016 09:21, tony sayer wrote:

Following up my original post about replacing a failed wiring loom which
prevents the heater fan from operating on a Peugeot 307sw - the new
speed control resistor & loom end arrived today.
RS hadn't delivered the Wago connectors by lunchtime - so I ended up
using some heavy-duty blue crimp-on bullet connectors instead.

If any poor soul is going to attempt this repair, it's made a tiny bit
easier by unclipping the wiring loom that connects to the speed control
switch, and unplugging the two wires that go to the heater fan - but
tape something on to them so you can retrieve them later. Gently easing
the resistor end of the loom down will give you just enough room to get
a crimp tool onto the cut-back ends of the loom. It's then relatively
easy to feed the whole lot back up through the 'recirculation' air vent,
and give it a quarter-twist to lock it into position.

If you don;t have arms like a gibbon and hands the size of a
five-year-old then it's not quite so easy. Grr!

I think my local mechanic must have been getting a bit tired when he
gave up on the job, 'cos after reassembly the fan was spinning but not
blowing a lot. Swapping the polarity on the connections to the fan
resulted in a fan that blows rather than sucks!

Apart from a bit of a 'hot' smell for the first 10 mins while the new
resistor baked itself clean - all now seems good!

Now for the air-con!
Adrian


You are of course using Ratchet crimpers not those cheapie ones?...

Of course! g
(Krimpit make - not sure how high-end they are - but they're not the
cheapie 'squeeze & pray' variety)

In article ,
Adrian Brentnall wrote:
You are of course using Ratchet crimpers not those cheapie ones?...

Of course! g
(Krimpit make - not sure how high-end they are - but they're not the
cheapie 'squeeze & pray' variety)

Have you ever made one of these pre-insulated crimps - then carefully cut
off the insulation to look at the crimp itself? You should. ;-)

--
*When companies ship Styrofoam, what do they pack it in? *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.