In a momentarily loss of concentration I picked up the 1" screws to
attach a fixing when I should have used the 1/2" screws - so I've
broken through to the other side of a chipboard laminated bookcase.

I've put the right screws in now and sod's law determined that when
everything was completed the damage is on an upper and visible
surface.

Any tips on hiding it? I've tapped the protrusions down a bit but
wonder if they should be soaked in water or maybe a bit of wood glue.

--
AnthonyL

On 09/09/16 20:00, AnthonyL wrote:
In a momentarily loss of concentration I picked up the 1" screws to
attach a fixing when I should have used the 1/2" screws - so I've
broken through to the other side of a chipboard laminated bookcase.

I've put the right screws in now and sod's law determined that when
everything was completed the damage is on an upper and visible
surface.

Any tips on hiding it? I've tapped the protrusions down a bit but
wonder if they should be soaked in water or maybe a bit of wood glue.

superglue and a bit of poly bag to avoid sticking then a cramp and a bit
of scrap to spread the load, and yoo will reform MOST of the laminate
and chip

Another possible is to drill out and fill with plastic wood or a
suitable filler



--
How fortunate for governments that the people they administer don't think.

Adolf Hitler

On 09/09/16 20:00, AnthonyL wrote:
In a momentarily loss of concentration I picked up the 1" screws to
attach a fixing when I should have used the 1/2" screws - so I've
broken through to the other side of a chipboard laminated bookcase.

I've put the right screws in now and sod's law determined that when
everything was completed the damage is on an upper and visible
surface.

Any tips on hiding it? I've tapped the protrusions down a bit but
wonder if they should be soaked in water or maybe a bit of wood glue.


Can you glue some decorative discs on? One on the damage and perhaps 3
others completely symmetric so it looks like it is part of the design?

On 09/09/2016 21:17, Tim Watts wrote:
On 09/09/16 20:00, AnthonyL wrote:
In a momentarily loss of concentration I picked up the 1" screws to
attach a fixing when I should have used the 1/2" screws - so I've
broken through to the other side of a chipboard laminated bookcase.

I've put the right screws in now and sod's law determined that when
everything was completed the damage is on an upper and visible
surface.

Any tips on hiding it? I've tapped the protrusions down a bit but
wonder if they should be soaked in water or maybe a bit of wood glue.


Can you glue some decorative discs on? One on the damage and perhaps 3
others completely symmetric so it looks like it is part of the design?

1. Is there an area that will be unseen that you could carefully prise
of a piece of the veneer and shape this to fit the hole.

2. Use filler to get flush and then coloured pencils to match.

On Friday, 9 September 2016 20:01:01 UTC+1, AnthonyL wrote:
In a momentarily loss of concentration I picked up the 1" screws to
attach a fixing when I should have used the 1/2" screws - so I've
broken through to the other side of a chipboard laminated bookcase.

I've put the right screws in now and sod's law determined that when
everything was completed the damage is on an upper and visible
surface.

Any tips on hiding it? I've tapped the protrusions down a bit but
wonder if they should be soaked in water or maybe a bit of wood glue.

fit something decorative to it


NT

If its crap chipboard everything you do will just make it look worse in my
experience.

It very much depends on what the surface finish is. Mostly its splintery
plastic veneer in which case its knackered.
I guess you could try the manufacturers and see if they can let you have a
new part. To hide this sort of thing I've often put them as the top shelf
when its taller than you or your friends are, or inverted it, but often
there is a wrap joint on the other side where the veneer is joined, which is
more ugly than the hole.
This is where those Allen key assembly systems score over screws I guess.
Brian

--
----- -
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please!
"AnthonyL" wrote in message
...
In a momentarily loss of concentration I picked up the 1" screws to
attach a fixing when I should have used the 1/2" screws - so I've
broken through to the other side of a chipboard laminated bookcase.

I've put the right screws in now and sod's law determined that when
everything was completed the damage is on an upper and visible
surface.

Any tips on hiding it? I've tapped the protrusions down a bit but
wonder if they should be soaked in water or maybe a bit of wood glue.

--
AnthonyL

wrote in message
...
On Friday, 9 September 2016 20:01:01 UTC+1, AnthonyL wrote:
In a momentarily loss of concentration I picked up the 1" screws to
attach a fixing when I should have used the 1/2" screws - so I've
broken through to the other side of a chipboard laminated bookcase.

I've put the right screws in now and sod's law determined that when
everything was completed the damage is on an upper and visible
surface.

Any tips on hiding it? I've tapped the protrusions down a bit but
wonder if they should be soaked in water or maybe a bit of wood glue.

fit something decorative to it



Like a book?

--
Adam

On 09/09/16 20:00, AnthonyL wrote:
In a momentarily loss of concentration I picked up the 1" screws to
attach a fixing when I should have used the 1/2" screws - so I've
broken through to the other side of a chipboard laminated bookcase.

I've put the right screws in now and sod's law determined that when
everything was completed the damage is on an upper and visible
surface.

Any tips on hiding it? I've tapped the protrusions down a bit but
wonder if they should be soaked in water or maybe a bit of wood glue.


Obtain a small piece of edge-banding tape matching the finish of the
panel. The tape will have melty glue on it. cut a disc from the tape and
carefully position it over the damage and use an iron to melt the
adhesive. The result won't be invisible but should be neat and look like
it has a purpose

You may be able to remove a small piece of tape from a non-visible edge,
otherwise ebay. gentle and careful with the heat, through a sheet of
paper. You don't want your patch sliding about leaving gluey smears. You
will have to make sure you have flattened the area by cramp or hammer
blow beforehand. A well cut disk, with edges softened with fine
abrasives will make a lot of difference to the appearance.

TW

On Fri, 9 Sep 2016 20:23:12 +0100, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:

On 09/09/16 20:00, AnthonyL wrote:
In a momentarily loss of concentration I picked up the 1" screws to
attach a fixing when I should have used the 1/2" screws - so I've
broken through to the other side of a chipboard laminated bookcase.

I've put the right screws in now and sod's law determined that when
everything was completed the damage is on an upper and visible
surface.

Any tips on hiding it? I've tapped the protrusions down a bit but
wonder if they should be soaked in water or maybe a bit of wood glue.

superglue and a bit of poly bag to avoid sticking then a cramp and a bit
of scrap to spread the load, and yoo will reform MOST of the laminate
and chip


Yes that's sounds a good bet. If I had realised where the damaged
piece was going to end up I could have removed the fixing and rotated
the panel - it's a middle panel/shelf below which is a magnetic catch
for a lower door.

But as I was working on a piece of wood as soon as I felt the panel
lift I knew I had burst through - so it's a bump rather than a hole.

Another possible is to drill out and fill with plastic wood or a
suitable filler


I think that would look worse than leaving it as it is.


--
AnthonyL

On Sat, 10 Sep 2016 11:33:33 +0100, "ARW"
wrote:

wrote in message
...
On Friday, 9 September 2016 20:01:01 UTC+1, AnthonyL wrote:
In a momentarily loss of concentration I picked up the 1" screws to
attach a fixing when I should have used the 1/2" screws - so I've
broken through to the other side of a chipboard laminated bookcase.

I've put the right screws in now and sod's law determined that when
everything was completed the damage is on an upper and visible
surface.

Any tips on hiding it? I've tapped the protrusions down a bit but
wonder if they should be soaked in water or maybe a bit of wood glue.

fit something decorative to it



Like a book?


It's within an 1" of the front edge, a book or decoration at the would
look out of place.

--
AnthonyL

On Sat, 10 Sep 2016 08:16:01 +0100, "Brian Gaff"
wrote:

If its crap chipboard everything you do will just make it look worse in my
experience.

It very much depends on what the surface finish is. Mostly its splintery
plastic veneer in which case its knackered.

It's is pretty cheap though not splintery and I've only just broken
through - it's not a full hole.

I guess you could try the manufacturers and see if they can let you have a
new part. To hide this sort of thing I've often put them as the top shelf
when its taller than you or your friends are, or inverted it, but often
there is a wrap joint on the other side where the veneer is joined, which is
more ugly than the hole.
This is where those Allen key assembly systems score over screws I guess.
Brian


Well in theory I could disassemble and rotate the damaged part and
refix the fitting (magnetic catches) with the right screws. But I'd
probably damage something else in the process. And it is a low
bookshelf. It's one of those Ikea type (not Ikea) kits with the
rotating lugs, dowels and pre-drilled holes.


--
----- -
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please!
"AnthonyL" wrote in message
...
In a momentarily loss of concentration I picked up the 1" screws to
attach a fixing when I should have used the 1/2" screws - so I've
broken through to the other side of a chipboard laminated bookcase.

I've put the right screws in now and sod's law determined that when
everything was completed the damage is on an upper and visible
surface.

Any tips on hiding it? I've tapped the protrusions down a bit but
wonder if they should be soaked in water or maybe a bit of wood glue.

--
AnthonyL

On 10-Sep-16 6:19 PM, AnthonyL wrote:
On Sat, 10 Sep 2016 08:16:01 +0100, "Brian Gaff"
wrote:

If its crap chipboard everything you do will just make it look worse in my
experience.

It very much depends on what the surface finish is. Mostly its splintery
plastic veneer in which case its knackered.

It's is pretty cheap though not splintery and I've only just broken
through - it's not a full hole.

I guess you could try the manufacturers and see if they can let you have a
new part. To hide this sort of thing I've often put them as the top shelf
when its taller than you or your friends are, or inverted it, but often
there is a wrap joint on the other side where the veneer is joined, which is
more ugly than the hole.
This is where those Allen key assembly systems score over screws I guess.
Brian


Well in theory I could disassemble and rotate the damaged part and
refix the fitting (magnetic catches) with the right screws. But I'd
probably damage something else in the process. And it is a low
bookshelf. It's one of those Ikea type (not Ikea) kits with the
rotating lugs, dowels and pre-drilled holes.


Have you tried just tapping it flat with a hammer?




--
----- -
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please!
"AnthonyL" wrote in message
...
In a momentarily loss of concentration I picked up the 1" screws to
attach a fixing when I should have used the 1/2" screws - so I've
broken through to the other side of a chipboard laminated bookcase.

I've put the right screws in now and sod's law determined that when
everything was completed the damage is on an upper and visible
surface.

Any tips on hiding it? I've tapped the protrusions down a bit but
wonder if they should be soaked in water or maybe a bit of wood glue.

--
AnthonyL

On Saturday, 10 September 2016 18:14:30 UTC+1, AnthonyL wrote:
Like a book?
It's within an 1" of the front edge, a book or decoration at the would
look out of place.

I've got books which come out to within 1" of the edge.

Or bookshelf edge labels could be used. They were discussed here recently.

Owain

On Sat, 10 Sep 2016 12:02:15 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Saturday, 10 September 2016 18:14:30 UTC+1, AnthonyL wrote:
Like a book?
It's within an 1" of the front edge, a book or decoration at the would
look out of place.

I've got books which come out to within 1" of the edge.


SWIMBO doesn't permit it!

--
AnthonyL

On Sat, 10 Sep 2016 19:04:52 +0100, GB
wrote:

On 10-Sep-16 6:19 PM, AnthonyL wrote:
On Sat, 10 Sep 2016 08:16:01 +0100, "Brian Gaff"
wrote:

If its crap chipboard everything you do will just make it look worse in my
experience.

It very much depends on what the surface finish is. Mostly its splintery
plastic veneer in which case its knackered.

It's is pretty cheap though not splintery and I've only just broken
through - it's not a full hole.

I guess you could try the manufacturers and see if they can let you have a
new part. To hide this sort of thing I've often put them as the top shelf
when its taller than you or your friends are, or inverted it, but often
there is a wrap joint on the other side where the veneer is joined, which is
more ugly than the hole.
This is where those Allen key assembly systems score over screws I guess.
Brian


Well in theory I could disassemble and rotate the damaged part and
refix the fitting (magnetic catches) with the right screws. But I'd
probably damage something else in the process. And it is a low
bookshelf. It's one of those Ikea type (not Ikea) kits with the
rotating lugs, dowels and pre-drilled holes.


Have you tried just tapping it flat with a hammer?

Not yet. I'm awaiting the gurus views from here lest someone says
"whatever you do don't hit it flat with a hammer".

--
AnthonyL

On Saturday, September 10, 2016 at 1:47:29 PM UTC+1, TimW wrote:
On 09/09/16 20:00, AnthonyL wrote:
In a momentarily loss of concentration I picked up the 1" screws to
attach a fixing when I should have used the 1/2" screws - so I've
broken through to the other side of a chipboard laminated bookcase.

I've put the right screws in now and sod's law determined that when
everything was completed the damage is on an upper and visible
surface.

Any tips on hiding it? I've tapped the protrusions down a bit but
wonder if they should be soaked in water or maybe a bit of wood glue.


Obtain a small piece of edge-banding tape matching the finish of the
panel. The tape will have melty glue on it. cut a disc from the tape and
carefully position it over the damage and use an iron to melt the
adhesive. The result won't be invisible but should be neat and look like
it has a purpose

You may be able to remove a small piece of tape from a non-visible edge,
otherwise ebay. gentle and careful with the heat, through a sheet of
paper. You don't want your patch sliding about leaving gluey smears. You
will have to make sure you have flattened the area by cramp or hammer
blow beforehand. A well cut disk, with edges softened with fine
abrasives will make a lot of difference to the appearance.

TW

What colour is it ? If its white Tippex will hide it. Otherwise you can try vatrious colours of felt tip pen.

Ney of Coventry sell a variety of these to match different colours of laminate.

http://www.ney.co.uk/materials/clean-rep/pens.html

Though trade only they may sell you just one in the colour you want.