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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Wood stove recommendation
We are looking at woodburning stoves, around max 5kw would suffice.
The guy who is going to fit it likes Esse and I quite like this, https://www.google.co.uk/?gws_rd=ssl#q=esse+525+stove Cheapest I can see it for is £670 quid. I don't want to save money buying something cheap and naff but don't want to spend more than necessary. So general opinions would be appreciated on stoves and prices. |
#2
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Wood stove recommendation
On Tuesday, 6 September 2016 17:13:44 UTC+1, R D S wrote:
We are looking at woodburning stoves, around max 5kw would suffice. The guy who is going to fit it likes Esse and I quite like this, https://www.google.co.uk/?gws_rd=ssl#q=esse+525+stove Cheapest I can see it for is £670 quid. I don't want to save money buying something cheap and naff but don't want to spend more than necessary. So general opinions would be appreciated on stoves and prices. If it's located on and outer wall, get a room sealed one. Draws combustion air directly into the stove from outside so increasing overall efficiency. (No cold air drawn into room.) http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/external-air-stove.html |
#3
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Wood stove recommendation
On Tue, 6 Sep 2016 16:13:41 -0000 (UTC), R D S
wrote: We are looking at woodburning stoves, around max 5kw would suffice. The guy who is going to fit it likes Esse and I quite like this, https://www.google.co.uk/?gws_rd=ssl#q=esse+525+stove Cheapest I can see it for is £670 quid. I don't want to save money buying something cheap and naff but don't want to spend more than necessary. So general opinions would be appreciated on stoves and prices. Are you purchasing as a main source of heat or as a fashion item that looks nice? I installed one of these http://salamanderstoves.com/ and am quite pleased with it. smaller than many would consider but I wanted minimal disruption to the existing fire place. It was also the smallest I could find that still had a back boiler option which the previous open fire had,something I was loathe to lose in a rural location with overhead lines which sometimes get damaged. We now retain the abilty to heat some hot water and cook can on top of it if the electric goes off. in fact in winter we do a lot of casseroles and stews on it anyway. Keeps the room it is in really warm with the door into the hall left open but this is a small bungalow, might struggle in a bigger place. G.Harman |
#4
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Wood stove recommendation
On Tue, 06 Sep 2016 20:23:08 +0100, damduck-egg wrote:
On Tue, 6 Sep 2016 16:13:41 -0000 (UTC), R D S wrote: We are looking at woodburning stoves, around max 5kw would suffice. The guy who is going to fit it likes Esse and I quite like this, https://www.google.co.uk/?gws_rd=ssl#q=esse+525+stove Which is a steel one and I installed one of these http://salamanderstoves.com/ and am quite pleased with it. that is a cast one Our existing stove is a cast one but we are looking to change next year and cannot decide whether steel or cast is better. Gut feeling is to stick with what we know and go for cast - but these seem to be getting less common. In addition to the OP request can I add a supplementary for views on cast vs steel. |
#5
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Wood stove recommendation
Mark Allread Wrote in message:
On Tue, 06 Sep 2016 20:23:08 +0100, damduck-egg wrote: On Tue, 6 Sep 2016 16:13:41 -0000 (UTC), R D S wrote: We are looking at woodburning stoves, around max 5kw would suffice. The guy who is going to fit it likes Esse and I quite like this, https://www.google.co.uk/?gws_rd=ssl#q=esse+525+stove Which is a steel one and I installed one of these http://salamanderstoves.com/ and am quite pleased with it. that is a cast one Our existing stove is a cast one but we are looking to change next year and cannot decide whether steel or cast is better. Gut feeling is to stick with what we know and go for cast - but these seem to be getting less common. In addition to the OP request can I add a supplementary for views on cast vs steel. Cast. Lots/all steel ones need firebricks inside to protect the steel plate sides/top from warping from the heat.....so it goes up the chimney...rather than in your room... -- Jim K ----Android NewsGroup Reader---- http://usenet.sinaapp.com/ |
#6
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Wood stove recommendation
jim wrote:
Mark Wrote in message: On Tue, 06 Sep 2016 20:23:08 +0100, damduck-egg wrote: On Tue, 6 Sep 2016 16:13:41 -0000 (UTC), R D wrote: We are looking at woodburning stoves, around max 5kw would suffice. The guy who is going to fit it likes Esse and I quite like this, https://www.google.co.uk/?gws_rd=ssl#q=esse+525+stove Which is a steel one and I installed one of these http://salamanderstoves.com/ and am quite pleased with it. that is a cast one Our existing stove is a cast one but we are looking to change next year and cannot decide whether steel or cast is better. Gut feeling is to stick with what we know and go for cast - but these seem to be getting less common. In addition to the OP request can I add a supplementary for views on cast vs steel. Cast. Lots/all steel ones need firebricks inside to protect the steel plate sides/top from warping from the heat.....so it goes up the chimney... rather than in your room... I fitted an Oliva cast iron stove in the workshop. I am not sure it's still available. The round cylindrical one. My experience is that it is very difficult to reduce the heat output. I reckon it almost never puts out less than 3KW and generally it's 5+. I have to keep the door open even in winter! However it does take large wood offcuts in a small enclosure by topfilling. I keep meaning to install an African Queen lid lifter but haven't yet got around tuit! The cast iron stoves IME have much hotter sides than the steel ones and are messier to use. The sight glass is also permanently sooted up. My daughters steel designer stove is easier to keep clean, the front glass doesn't soot and the heat exchanger seems to work at putting out warm clean air into the room. She did stupidly pay lots of money for it however,£2K IIRC. |
#7
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Wood stove recommendation
On Wednesday, 7 September 2016 11:54:03 UTC+1, jim wrote:
Mark Allread Wrote in message: On Tue, 06 Sep 2016 20:23:08 +0100, damduck-egg wrote: On Tue, 6 Sep 2016 16:13:41 -0000 (UTC), R D S wrote: We are looking at woodburning stoves, around max 5kw would suffice. The guy who is going to fit it likes Esse and I quite like this, https://www.google.co.uk/?gws_rd=ssl#q=esse+525+stove Which is a steel one and I installed one of these http://salamanderstoves.com/ and am quite pleased with it. that is a cast one Our existing stove is a cast one but we are looking to change next year and cannot decide whether steel or cast is better. Gut feeling is to stick with what we know and go for cast - but these seem to be getting less common. In addition to the OP request can I add a supplementary for views on cast vs steel. Cast. Lots/all steel ones need firebricks inside to protect the steel plate sides/top from warping from the heat.....so it goes up the chimney... rather than in your room... The other purpose of firebricks is to prevent the flame being "quenched" by premature cooling. This leads to unburnt fuel going up the chimney causing soot and tar to be deposited. |
#8
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Wood stove recommendation
On Tuesday, 6 September 2016 20:29:44 UTC+1, Mark Allread wrote:
On Tue, 06 Sep 2016 20:23:08 +0100, damduck-egg wrote: On Tue, 6 Sep 2016 16:13:41 -0000 (UTC), R D S wrote: We are looking at woodburning stoves, around max 5kw would suffice. The guy who is going to fit it likes Esse and I quite like this, https://www.google.co.uk/?gws_rd=ssl#q=esse+525+stove Which is a steel one and I installed one of these http://salamanderstoves.com/ and am quite pleased with it. that is a cast one Our existing stove is a cast one but we are looking to change next year and cannot decide whether steel or cast is better. Gut feeling is to stick with what we know and go for cast - but these seem to be getting less common. In addition to the OP request can I add a supplementary for views on cast vs steel. Cast Iron is more expensive than steel but won't burn/corrode away as gradually happens with steel. Some steel stoves have vitreous enamel to try to prevent this. Steel is more prone to distortion if it should overheat. |
#9
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Wood stove recommendation
On Wed, 07 Sep 2016 14:19:03 +0100, Capitol wrote:
lifter but haven't yet got around tuit! The cast iron stoves IME have much hotter sides than the steel ones Which helps put the heat into the room surely? and are messier to use. How are they messier? You chuck logs or 'multifuel' onto them both and both need the ash cleaning out so I'm not sure why one should be messier than t'other. The sight glass is also permanently sooted up. Does it have airflow clean (or whatever they want to call it). Our old Malvern cast stove has that and the glass keeps pretty clean. |
#10
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Wood stove recommendation
Tim Streater wrote:
In article , Capitol wrote: I fitted an Oliva cast iron stove in the workshop. I am not sure it's still available. The round cylindrical one. My experience is that it is very difficult to reduce the heat output. I reckon it almost never puts out less than 3KW and generally it's 5+. I have to keep the door open even in winter! However it does take large wood offcuts in a small enclosure by topfilling. I keep meaning to install an African Queen lid lifter but haven't yet got around tuit! The cast iron stoves IME have much hotter sides than the steel ones and are messier to use. The sight glass is also permanently sooted up. My daughters steel designer stove is easier to keep clean, the front glass doesn't soot and the heat exchanger seems to work at putting out warm clean air into the room. She did stupidly pay lots of money for it however,£2K IIRC. The heat output is going to depend on how much wood is burning in it, Shirley. In our case (Esse 100) also whether you adjust the top vent, too. But close that vent too much and the airwash can no longer keep the window clean. Was that just for the stove or was there other work? In our case we had the fireplace modified, and the chimney lined and insulated, so the job total was a lot more than £2k. That was the stove! |
#11
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Wood stove recommendation
harry Wrote in message:
On Wednesday, 7 September 2016 11:54:03 UTC+1, jim wrote: Mark Allread Wrote in message: On Tue, 06 Sep 2016 20:23:08 +0100, damduck-egg wrote: On Tue, 6 Sep 2016 16:13:41 -0000 (UTC), R D S wrote: We are looking at woodburning stoves, around max 5kw would suffice. The guy who is going to fit it likes Esse and I quite like this, https://www.google.co.uk/?gws_rd=ssl#q=esse+525+stove Which is a steel one and I installed one of these http://salamanderstoves.com/ and am quite pleased with it. that is a cast one Our existing stove is a cast one but we are looking to change next year and cannot decide whether steel or cast is better. Gut feeling is to stick with what we know and go for cast - but these seem to be getting less common. In addition to the OP request can I add a supplementary for views on cast vs steel. Cast. Lots/all steel ones need firebricks inside to protect the steel plate sides/top from warping from the heat.....so it goes up the chimney... rather than in your room... The other purpose of firebricks is to prevent the flame being "quenched" by premature cooling. This leads to unburnt fuel going up the chimney causing soot and tar to be deposited. Premature cooling?? Describe us a scenario where that might happen in a wood stove cycle? -- Jim K ----Android NewsGroup Reader---- http://usenet.sinaapp.com/ |
#12
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Wood stove recommendation
On Wednesday, 7 September 2016 21:12:21 UTC+1, jim wrote:
harry Wrote in message: On Wednesday, 7 September 2016 11:54:03 UTC+1, jim wrote: Mark Allread Wrote in message: On Tue, 06 Sep 2016 20:23:08 +0100, damduck-egg wrote: On Tue, 6 Sep 2016 16:13:41 -0000 (UTC), R D S wrote: We are looking at woodburning stoves, around max 5kw would suffice. The guy who is going to fit it likes Esse and I quite like this, https://www.google.co.uk/?gws_rd=ssl#q=esse+525+stove Which is a steel one and I installed one of these http://salamanderstoves.com/ and am quite pleased with it. that is a cast one Our existing stove is a cast one but we are looking to change next year and cannot decide whether steel or cast is better. Gut feeling is to stick with what we know and go for cast - but these seem to be getting less common. In addition to the OP request can I add a supplementary for views on cast vs steel. Cast. Lots/all steel ones need firebricks inside to protect the steel plate sides/top from warping from the heat.....so it goes up the chimney... rather than in your room... The other purpose of firebricks is to prevent the flame being "quenched" by premature cooling. This leads to unburnt fuel going up the chimney causing soot and tar to be deposited. Premature cooling?? Describe us a scenario where that might happen in a wood stove cycle? When a flame has energy extracted before the combustion process is complete, the combustion process ceases and hence unburnt fuel escapes as gasses, soot and tars. One of the function of firebricks is to stop this happening. http://www.itv.rwth-aachen.de/en/res...at-cold-walls/ |
#13
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Wood stove recommendation
harry Wrote in message:
On Wednesday, 7 September 2016 21:12:21 UTC+1, jim wrote: harry Wrote in message: On Wednesday, 7 September 2016 11:54:03 UTC+1, jim wrote: Mark Allread Wrote in message: On Tue, 06 Sep 2016 20:23:08 +0100, damduck-egg wrote: On Tue, 6 Sep 2016 16:13:41 -0000 (UTC), R D S wrote: We are looking at woodburning stoves, around max 5kw would suffice. The guy who is going to fit it likes Esse and I quite like this, https://www.google.co.uk/?gws_rd=ssl#q=esse+525+stove Which is a steel one and I installed one of these http://salamanderstoves.com/ and am quite pleased with it. that is a cast one Our existing stove is a cast one but we are looking to change next year and cannot decide whether steel or cast is better. Gut feeling is to stick with what we know and go for cast - but these seem to be getting less common. In addition to the OP request can I add a supplementary for views on cast vs steel. Cast. Lots/all steel ones need firebricks inside to protect the steel plate sides/top from warping from the heat.....so it goes up the chimney... rather than in your room... The other purpose of firebricks is to prevent the flame being "quenched" by premature cooling. This leads to unburnt fuel going up the chimney causing soot and tar to be deposited. Premature cooling?? Describe us a scenario where that might happen in a wood stove cycle? When a flame has energy extracted before the combustion process is complete, the combustion process ceases and hence unburnt fuel escapes as gasses, soot and tars. One of the function of firebricks is to stop this happening. http://www.itv.rwth-aachen.de/en/res...at-cold-walls/ So (again) then, apply it to a woodstove? -- Jim K ----Android NewsGroup Reader---- http://usenet.sinaapp.com/ |
#14
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Wood stove recommendation
On Tue, 06 Sep 2016 16:13:41 +0000, R D S wrote:
We are looking at woodburning stoves, around max 5kw would suffice. The guy who is going to fit it likes Esse and I quite like this, https://www.google.co.uk/?gws_rd=ssl#q=esse+525+stove Cheapest I can see it for is £670 quid. I don't want to save money buying something cheap and naff but don't want to spend more than necessary. So general opinions would be appreciated on stoves and prices. We have used Stovax Stockton stoves for our last two. They are steel, and seem to work well. Morso were a good brand for cast iron, but I understand that cast iron is more fragile than steel if mistreated, and steel stoves are also cheaper to produce these days so there seem to be more of those especially at the budget end of the market. We did want a particular Esse stove (as seen on River Cottage) which included an oven but we found (by talking to retailers) that there were design problems. We use our stove for fun - that is we have full central heating but we also like a wood fire and often run it in Autumn/Spring while the CH is still resting. One small point - you usually have a choice of top or rear connection for the flue. A rear connection pushes the stove into the room a bit more but it does give you the entire stove top for cooking should you be so inclined. With a 5kW stove you may find that there isn't enough room around the flue if it is top connected. Cheers Dave R -- Windows 8.1 on PCSpecialist box |
#15
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Wood stove recommendation
On Thursday, 8 September 2016 11:10:56 UTC+1, jim wrote:
harry Wrote in message: On Wednesday, 7 September 2016 21:12:21 UTC+1, jim wrote: harry Wrote in message: On Wednesday, 7 September 2016 11:54:03 UTC+1, jim wrote: Mark Allread Wrote in message: On Tue, 06 Sep 2016 20:23:08 +0100, damduck-egg wrote: On Tue, 6 Sep 2016 16:13:41 -0000 (UTC), R D S wrote: We are looking at woodburning stoves, around max 5kw would suffice. The guy who is going to fit it likes Esse and I quite like this, https://www.google.co.uk/?gws_rd=ssl#q=esse+525+stove Which is a steel one and I installed one of these http://salamanderstoves.com/ and am quite pleased with it. that is a cast one Our existing stove is a cast one but we are looking to change next year and cannot decide whether steel or cast is better. Gut feeling is to stick with what we know and go for cast - but these seem to be getting less common. In addition to the OP request can I add a supplementary for views on cast vs steel. Cast. Lots/all steel ones need firebricks inside to protect the steel plate sides/top from warping from the heat.....so it goes up the chimney... rather than in your room... The other purpose of firebricks is to prevent the flame being "quenched" by premature cooling. This leads to unburnt fuel going up the chimney causing soot and tar to be deposited. Premature cooling?? Describe us a scenario where that might happen in a wood stove cycle? When a flame has energy extracted before the combustion process is complete, the combustion process ceases and hence unburnt fuel escapes as gasses, soot and tars. One of the function of firebricks is to stop this happening. http://www.itv.rwth-aachen.de/en/res...at-cold-walls/ So (again) then, apply it to a woodstove? Much more likely to too, for obvious reasons, so I hope Harry doesn't lose it and make you look silly. |
#16
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Wood stove recommendation
Weatherlawyer Wrote in message:
On Thursday, 8 September 2016 11:10:56 UTC+1, jim wrote: harry Wrote in message: On Wednesday, 7 September 2016 21:12:21 UTC+1, jim wrote: harry Wrote in message: On Wednesday, 7 September 2016 11:54:03 UTC+1, jim wrote: Mark Allread Wrote in message: On Tue, 06 Sep 2016 20:23:08 +0100, damduck-egg wrote: On Tue, 6 Sep 2016 16:13:41 -0000 (UTC), R D S wrote: We are looking at woodburning stoves, around max 5kw would suffice. The guy who is going to fit it likes Esse and I quite like this, https://www.google.co.uk/?gws_rd=ssl#q=esse+525+stove Which is a steel one and I installed one of these http://salamanderstoves.com/ and am quite pleased with it. that is a cast one Our existing stove is a cast one but we are looking to change next year and cannot decide whether steel or cast is better. Gut feeling is to stick with what we know and go for cast - but these seem to be getting less common. In addition to the OP request can I add a supplementary for views on cast vs steel. Cast. Lots/all steel ones need firebricks inside to protect the steel plate sides/top from warping from the heat.....so it goes up the chimney... rather than in your room... The other purpose of firebricks is to prevent the flame being "quenched" by premature cooling. This leads to unburnt fuel going up the chimney causing soot and tar to be deposited. Premature cooling?? Describe us a scenario where that might happen in a wood stove cycle? When a flame has energy extracted before the combustion process is complete, the combustion process ceases and hence unburnt fuel escapes as gasses, soot and tars. One of the function of firebricks is to stop this happening. http://www.itv.rwth-aachen.de/en/res...at-cold-walls/ So (again) then, apply it to a woodstove? Much more likely to too, for obvious reasons, so I hope Harry doesn't lose it and make you look silly. We can hear you thinking again... -- Jim K ----Android NewsGroup Reader---- http://usenet.sinaapp.com/ |
#17
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Wood stove recommendation
On Thursday, 8 September 2016 11:10:56 UTC+1, jim wrote:
harry Wrote in message: On Wednesday, 7 September 2016 21:12:21 UTC+1, jim wrote: harry Wrote in message: On Wednesday, 7 September 2016 11:54:03 UTC+1, jim wrote: Mark Allread Wrote in message: On Tue, 06 Sep 2016 20:23:08 +0100, damduck-egg wrote: On Tue, 6 Sep 2016 16:13:41 -0000 (UTC), R D S wrote: We are looking at woodburning stoves, around max 5kw would suffice. The guy who is going to fit it likes Esse and I quite like this, https://www.google.co.uk/?gws_rd=ssl#q=esse+525+stove Which is a steel one and I installed one of these http://salamanderstoves.com/ and am quite pleased with it. that is a cast one Our existing stove is a cast one but we are looking to change next year and cannot decide whether steel or cast is better. Gut feeling is to stick with what we know and go for cast - but these seem to be getting less common. In addition to the OP request can I add a supplementary for views on cast vs steel. Cast. Lots/all steel ones need firebricks inside to protect the steel plate sides/top from warping from the heat.....so it goes up the chimney... rather than in your room... The other purpose of firebricks is to prevent the flame being "quenched" by premature cooling. This leads to unburnt fuel going up the chimney causing soot and tar to be deposited. Premature cooling?? Describe us a scenario where that might happen in a wood stove cycle? When a flame has energy extracted before the combustion process is complete, the combustion process ceases and hence unburnt fuel escapes as gasses, soot and tars. One of the function of firebricks is to stop this happening. http://www.itv.rwth-aachen.de/en/res...at-cold-walls/ So (again) then, apply it to a woodstove? -- Jim K ----Android NewsGroup Reader---- http://usenet.sinaapp.com/ You really are a ****-fer-brains. Any situation where a flame is cooled before combustion is complete causes unburned fuel gases to be generated. The uninsulated metal wall of a wood stove is just one example. The firebricks prevent heat loss until combustion is complete. In theory. Any flue where there is soot or tar deposits indicates that flame quenching has been taking place. Due to bad/cheap design. |
#18
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Wood stove recommendation
On Thursday, 8 September 2016 12:13:02 UTC+1, David wrote:
On Tue, 06 Sep 2016 16:13:41 +0000, R D S wrote: We are looking at woodburning stoves, around max 5kw would suffice. The guy who is going to fit it likes Esse and I quite like this, https://www.google.co.uk/?gws_rd=ssl#q=esse+525+stove Cheapest I can see it for is £670 quid. I don't want to save money buying something cheap and naff but don't want to spend more than necessary. So general opinions would be appreciated on stoves and prices. We have used Stovax Stockton stoves for our last two. They are steel, and seem to work well. Morso were a good brand for cast iron, but I understand that cast iron is more fragile than steel if mistreated, and steel stoves are also cheaper to produce these days so there seem to be more of those especially at the budget end of the market. We did want a particular Esse stove (as seen on River Cottage) which included an oven but we found (by talking to retailers) that there were design problems. We use our stove for fun - that is we have full central heating but we also like a wood fire and often run it in Autumn/Spring while the CH is still resting. One small point - you usually have a choice of top or rear connection for the flue. A rear connection pushes the stove into the room a bit more but it does give you the entire stove top for cooking should you be so inclined. With a 5kW stove you may find that there isn't enough room around the flue if it is top connected. A rear connection is used where the flue is external to the building. A hole is made in the external wall behind the stove. |
#19
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Wood stove recommendation
On Tuesday, 6 September 2016 17:13:44 UTC+1, R D S wrote:
We are looking at woodburning stoves, around max 5kw would suffice. The guy who is going to fit it likes Esse and I quite like this, https://www.google.co.uk/?gws_rd=ssl#q=esse+525+stove Cheapest I can see it for is £670 quid. I don't want to save money buying something cheap and naff but don't want to spend more than necessary. So general opinions would be appreciated on stoves and prices. You may well find the chimney/flue arrangements costs more then the stove. |
#20
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Wood stove recommendation
On 08/09/2016 19:25, harry wrote:
On Thursday, 8 September 2016 12:13:02 UTC+1, David wrote: One small point - you usually have a choice of top or rear connection for the flue. A rear connection pushes the stove into the room a bit more but it does give you the entire stove top for cooking should you be so inclined. With a 5kW stove you may find that there isn't enough room around the flue if it is top connected. A rear connection is used where the flue is external to the building. A hole is made in the external wall behind the stove. A rear connection is also used for a conventional chimney if you want. |
#21
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Wood stove recommendation
On Thu, 8 Sep 2016 11:26:31 -0700 (PDT)
harry wrote: On Tuesday, 6 September 2016 17:13:44 UTC+1, R D S wrote: We are looking at woodburning stoves, around max 5kw would suffice. The guy who is going to fit it likes Esse and I quite like this, https://www.google.co.uk/?gws_rd=ssl#q=esse+525+stove Cheapest I can see it for is £670 quid. I don't want to save money buying something cheap and naff but don't want to spend more than necessary. So general opinions would be appreciated on stoves and prices. You may well find the chimney/flue arrangements costs more then the stove. Agreed. The cost of upgrading our chimney was so much that we didn't install the woodburner. -- Davey. |
#22
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Wood stove recommendation
harry Wrote in message:
On Thursday, 8 September 2016 11:10:56 UTC+1, jim wrote: harry Wrote in message: On Wednesday, 7 September 2016 21:12:21 UTC+1, jim wrote: harry Wrote in message: On Wednesday, 7 September 2016 11:54:03 UTC+1, jim wrote: Mark Allread Wrote in message: On Tue, 06 Sep 2016 20:23:08 +0100, damduck-egg wrote: On Tue, 6 Sep 2016 16:13:41 -0000 (UTC), R D S wrote: We are looking at woodburning stoves, around max 5kw would suffice. The guy who is going to fit it likes Esse and I quite like this, https://www.google.co.uk/?gws_rd=ssl#q=esse+525+stove Which is a steel one and I installed one of these http://salamanderstoves.com/ and am quite pleased with it. that is a cast one Our existing stove is a cast one but we are looking to change next year and cannot decide whether steel or cast is better. Gut feeling is to stick with what we know and go for cast - but these seem to be getting less common. In addition to the OP request can I add a supplementary for views on cast vs steel. Cast. Lots/all steel ones need firebricks inside to protect the steel plate sides/top from warping from the heat.....so it goes up the chimney... rather than in your room... The other purpose of firebricks is to prevent the flame being "quenched" by premature cooling. This leads to unburnt fuel going up the chimney causing soot and tar to be deposited. Premature cooling?? Describe us a scenario where that might happen in a wood stove cycle? When a flame has energy extracted before the combustion process is complete, the combustion process ceases and hence unburnt fuel escapes as gasses, soot and tars. One of the function of firebricks is to stop this happening. http://www.itv.rwth-aachen.de/en/res...at-cold-walls/ So (again) then, apply it to a woodstove? -- Jim K ----Android NewsGroup Reader---- http://usenet.sinaapp.com/ You really are a ****-fer-brains. Any situation where a flame is cooled before combustion is complete causes unburned fuel gases to be generated. The uninsulated metal wall of a wood stove is just one example. The firebricks prevent heat loss until combustion is complete. In theory. Any flue where there is soot or tar deposits indicates that flame quenching has been taking place. Due to bad/cheap design. You still haven't explained what relevance this tripe has to a woodstove.? I'll start you off - they all start cold.....even ones with firebricks in... You carry on if you can.. -- Jim K ----Android NewsGroup Reader---- http://usenet.sinaapp.com/ |
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Wood stove recommendation
Davey Wrote in message:
On Thu, 8 Sep 2016 11:26:31 -0700 (PDT) harry wrote: On Tuesday, 6 September 2016 17:13:44 UTC+1, R D S wrote: We are looking at woodburning stoves, around max 5kw would suffice. The guy who is going to fit it likes Esse and I quite like this, https://www.google.co.uk/?gws_rd=ssl#q=esse+525+stove Cheapest I can see it for is £670 quid. I don't want to save money buying something cheap and naff but don't want to spend more than necessary. So general opinions would be appreciated on stoves and prices. You may well find the chimney/flue arrangements costs more then the stove. Agreed. The cost of upgrading our chimney was so much that we didn't install the woodburner. What did they suggest you needed?! -- Jim K ----Android NewsGroup Reader---- http://usenet.sinaapp.com/ |
#24
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Wood stove recommendation
On 08/09/16 21:13, jim wrote:
Davey Wrote in message: On Thu, 8 Sep 2016 11:26:31 -0700 (PDT) harry wrote: On Tuesday, 6 September 2016 17:13:44 UTC+1, R D S wrote: We are looking at woodburning stoves, around max 5kw would suffice. The guy who is going to fit it likes Esse and I quite like this, https://www.google.co.uk/?gws_rd=ssl#q=esse+525+stove Cheapest I can see it for is £670 quid. I don't want to save money buying something cheap and naff but don't want to spend more than necessary. So general opinions would be appreciated on stoves and prices. You may well find the chimney/flue arrangements costs more then the stove. Agreed. The cost of upgrading our chimney was so much that we didn't install the woodburner. What did they suggest you needed?! normally double skinned insulated stainless steel Easily a grand, installed. Stoves are less. -- If you tell a lie big enough and keep repeating it, people will eventually come to believe it. The lie can be maintained only for such time as the State can shield the people from the political, economic and/or military consequences of the lie. It thus becomes vitally important for the State to use all of its powers to repress dissent, for the truth is the mortal enemy of the lie, and thus by extension, the truth is the greatest enemy of the State. Joseph Goebbels |
#25
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Wood stove recommendation
On 08/09/16 21:30, jim wrote:
The Natural Philosopher Wrote in message: On 08/09/16 21:13, jim wrote: Davey Wrote in message: On Thu, 8 Sep 2016 11:26:31 -0700 (PDT) harry wrote: On Tuesday, 6 September 2016 17:13:44 UTC+1, R D S wrote: We are looking at woodburning stoves, around max 5kw would suffice. The guy who is going to fit it likes Esse and I quite like this, https://www.google.co.uk/?gws_rd=ssl#q=esse+525+stove Cheapest I can see it for is £670 quid. I don't want to save money buying something cheap and naff but don't want to spend more than necessary. So general opinions would be appreciated on stoves and prices. You may well find the chimney/flue arrangements costs more then the stove. Agreed. The cost of upgrading our chimney was so much that we didn't install the woodburner. What did they suggest you needed?! normally double skinned insulated stainless steel Easily a grand, installed. Stoves are less. Ah the mythical insulated stainless flue liner again ...;-) Nothing mythical about it. That's what I installed. BCO insisted. Obviously you are ignorant http://www.flexifluedirect.com/index.php?cPath=24_58 -- "When a true genius appears in the world, you may know him by this sign, that the dunces are all in confederacy against him." Jonathan Swift. |
#26
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Wood stove recommendation
The Natural Philosopher Wrote in message:
On 08/09/16 21:13, jim wrote: Davey Wrote in message: On Thu, 8 Sep 2016 11:26:31 -0700 (PDT) harry wrote: On Tuesday, 6 September 2016 17:13:44 UTC+1, R D S wrote: We are looking at woodburning stoves, around max 5kw would suffice. The guy who is going to fit it likes Esse and I quite like this, https://www.google.co.uk/?gws_rd=ssl#q=esse+525+stove Cheapest I can see it for is £670 quid. I don't want to save money buying something cheap and naff but don't want to spend more than necessary. So general opinions would be appreciated on stoves and prices. You may well find the chimney/flue arrangements costs more then the stove. Agreed. The cost of upgrading our chimney was so much that we didn't install the woodburner. What did they suggest you needed?! normally double skinned insulated stainless steel Easily a grand, installed. Stoves are less. Ah the mythical insulated stainless flue liner again...;-) -- Jim K ----Android NewsGroup Reader---- http://usenet.sinaapp.com/ |
#27
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Wood stove recommendation
harry Wrote in message:
On Thursday, 8 September 2016 12:13:02 UTC+1, David wrote: On Tue, 06 Sep 2016 16:13:41 +0000, R D S wrote: We are looking at woodburning stoves, around max 5kw would suffice. The guy who is going to fit it likes Esse and I quite like this, https://www.google.co.uk/?gws_rd=ssl#q=esse+525+stove Cheapest I can see it for is £670 quid. I don't want to save money buying something cheap and naff but don't want to spend more than necessary. So general opinions would be appreciated on stoves and prices. We have used Stovax Stockton stoves for our last two. They are steel, and seem to work well. Morso were a good brand for cast iron, but I understand that cast iron is more fragile than steel if mistreated, and steel stoves are also cheaper to produce these days so there seem to be more of those especially at the budget end of the market. We did want a particular Esse stove (as seen on River Cottage) which included an oven but we found (by talking to retailers) that there were design problems. We use our stove for fun - that is we have full central heating but we also like a wood fire and often run it in Autumn/Spring while the CH is still resting. One small point - you usually have a choice of top or rear connection for the flue. A rear connection pushes the stove into the room a bit more but it does give you the entire stove top for cooking should you be so inclined. With a 5kW stove you may find that there isn't enough room around the flue if it is top connected. A rear connection is used where the flue is external to the building. A hole is made in the external wall behind the stove. Sometimes. More often the stove is purposely placed into the room, using the rear connectionback to the flue. But you'll already know that won't you harry ;-) -- Jim K ----Android NewsGroup Reader---- http://usenet.sinaapp.com/ |
#28
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Wood stove recommendation
The Natural Philosopher Wrote in message:
On 08/09/16 21:30, jim wrote: The Natural Philosopher Wrote in message: On 08/09/16 21:13, jim wrote: Davey Wrote in message: On Thu, 8 Sep 2016 11:26:31 -0700 (PDT) harry wrote: On Tuesday, 6 September 2016 17:13:44 UTC+1, R D S wrote: We are looking at woodburning stoves, around max 5kw would suffice. The guy who is going to fit it likes Esse and I quite like this, https://www.google.co.uk/?gws_rd=ssl#q=esse+525+stove Cheapest I can see it for is £670 quid. I don't want to save money buying something cheap and naff but don't want to spend more than necessary. So general opinions would be appreciated on stoves and prices. You may well find the chimney/flue arrangements costs more then the stove. Agreed. The cost of upgrading our chimney was so much that we didn't install the woodburner. What did they suggest you needed?! normally double skinned insulated stainless steel Easily a grand, installed. Stoves are less. Ah the mythical insulated stainless flue liner again ...;-) Nothing mythical about it. That's what I installed. BCO insisted. In an existing flue? Obviously you are ignorant as you are pugnacious... -- Jim K ----Android NewsGroup Reader---- http://usenet.sinaapp.com/ |
#29
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Wood stove recommendation
On Thu, 8 Sep 2016 21:57:08 +0100, The Natural Philosopher
wrote: What did they suggest you needed?! normally double skinned insulated stainless steel Easily a grand, installed. Stoves are less. Ah the mythical insulated stainless flue liner again ...;-) Nothing mythical about it. That's what I installed. BCO insisted. Obviously you are ignorant http://www.flexifluedirect.com/index.php?cPath=24_58 You are getting like Harry in that you think there is only one solution to things and that your view is the sole right one even when you are wrong. Your BCO would have asked for an insulated flue system because you were a new build, now study the flexible flue liners that are on the site you gave a link to under the section chimney liners , you will see two types 316 for wood burning only and 904 which is for multlifuel burners. These are not insulated liners , they are permitted to be installed in existing chimneys such as may take place when installing a stove in place of an open fire place where it is often impracticable to demolish an existing chimney flue to get a straight sectional insulated one in, not that you need one in this circumstance. If the chimney flue is a small one in good condition then that may be enough, if it is a large one such as may be found in a large old farmhouse or the chimney is in poor condition then a decent installer may add some insulation external to the flexible liner such as filling the void around it with vermiculite, again on the very link you gave you will find this under the section Installation AccessoriesChimney insulation materials. In truth if an existing chimney is in good condition then it is not an absolute requirement even under the part J building regs to have a liner at all but most Hetas installers prefer to fit one to ensure the regs are met in all conditions, but if a smoke pellet test shows adequate draught and no leaks form the existing structure they may write out the Hetas certification, chimneys that are already lined with concrete sections or pumice components are better candidates for not needing any more liner. Now stop being like Harry and thinking you are right all the time just because you two had a love affair over the Brexit campaign. G.Harman |
#30
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Wood stove recommendation
On 08/09/16 22:29, jim wrote:
The Natural Philosopher Wrote in message: On 08/09/16 21:30, jim wrote: The Natural Philosopher Wrote in message: On 08/09/16 21:13, jim wrote: Davey Wrote in message: On Thu, 8 Sep 2016 11:26:31 -0700 (PDT) harry wrote: On Tuesday, 6 September 2016 17:13:44 UTC+1, R D S wrote: We are looking at woodburning stoves, around max 5kw would suffice. The guy who is going to fit it likes Esse and I quite like this, https://www.google.co.uk/?gws_rd=ssl#q=esse+525+stove Cheapest I can see it for is £670 quid. I don't want to save money buying something cheap and naff but don't want to spend more than necessary. So general opinions would be appreciated on stoves and prices. You may well find the chimney/flue arrangements costs more then the stove. Agreed. The cost of upgrading our chimney was so much that we didn't install the woodburner. What did they suggest you needed?! normally double skinned insulated stainless steel Easily a grand, installed. Stoves are less. Ah the mythical insulated stainless flue liner again ...;-) Nothing mythical about it. That's what I installed. BCO insisted. In an existing flue? yes. Obviously you are ignorant as you are pugnacious... -- Future generations will wonder in bemused amazement that the early twenty-first centurys developed world went into hysterical panic over a globally average temperature increase of a few tenths of a degree, and, on the basis of gross exaggerations of highly uncertain computer projections combined into implausible chains of inference, proceeded to contemplate a rollback of the industrial age. Richard Lindzen |
#31
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Wood stove recommendation
On Thursday, 8 September 2016 21:12:28 UTC+1, jim wrote:
harry Wrote in message: On Thursday, 8 September 2016 11:10:56 UTC+1, jim wrote: harry Wrote in message: On Wednesday, 7 September 2016 21:12:21 UTC+1, jim wrote: harry Wrote in message: On Wednesday, 7 September 2016 11:54:03 UTC+1, jim wrote: Mark Allread Wrote in message: On Tue, 06 Sep 2016 20:23:08 +0100, damduck-egg wrote: On Tue, 6 Sep 2016 16:13:41 -0000 (UTC), R D S wrote: We are looking at woodburning stoves, around max 5kw would suffice. The guy who is going to fit it likes Esse and I quite like this, https://www.google.co.uk/?gws_rd=ssl#q=esse+525+stove Which is a steel one and I installed one of these http://salamanderstoves.com/ and am quite pleased with it. that is a cast one Our existing stove is a cast one but we are looking to change next year and cannot decide whether steel or cast is better. Gut feeling is to stick with what we know and go for cast - but these seem to be getting less common. In addition to the OP request can I add a supplementary for views on cast vs steel. Cast. Lots/all steel ones need firebricks inside to protect the steel plate sides/top from warping from the heat.....so it goes up the chimney... rather than in your room... The other purpose of firebricks is to prevent the flame being "quenched" by premature cooling. This leads to unburnt fuel going up the chimney causing soot and tar to be deposited. Premature cooling?? Describe us a scenario where that might happen in a wood stove cycle? When a flame has energy extracted before the combustion process is complete, the combustion process ceases and hence unburnt fuel escapes as gasses, soot and tars. One of the function of firebricks is to stop this happening. http://www.itv.rwth-aachen.de/en/res...at-cold-walls/ So (again) then, apply it to a woodstove? -- Jim K ----Android NewsGroup Reader---- http://usenet.sinaapp.com/ You really are a ****-fer-brains. Any situation where a flame is cooled before combustion is complete causes unburned fuel gases to be generated. The uninsulated metal wall of a wood stove is just one example. The firebricks prevent heat loss until combustion is complete. In theory. Any flue where there is soot or tar deposits indicates that flame quenching has been taking place. Due to bad/cheap design. You still haven't explained what relevance this tripe has to a woodstove.? I'll start you off - they all start cold.....even ones with firebricks in... You carry on if you can.. -- Jim K ----Android NewsGroup Reader---- http://usenet.sinaapp.com/ If you can't understand my simple explanation, you are clearly totally brain dead. |
#32
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Wood stove recommendation
On Thursday, 8 September 2016 21:30:52 UTC+1, jim wrote:
The Natural Philosopher Wrote in message: On 08/09/16 21:13, jim wrote: Davey Wrote in message: On Thu, 8 Sep 2016 11:26:31 -0700 (PDT) harry wrote: On Tuesday, 6 September 2016 17:13:44 UTC+1, R D S wrote: We are looking at woodburning stoves, around max 5kw would suffice. The guy who is going to fit it likes Esse and I quite like this, https://www.google.co.uk/?gws_rd=ssl#q=esse+525+stove Cheapest I can see it for is £670 quid. I don't want to save money buying something cheap and naff but don't want to spend more than necessary. So general opinions would be appreciated on stoves and prices. You may well find the chimney/flue arrangements costs more then the stove. Agreed. The cost of upgrading our chimney was so much that we didn't install the woodburner. What did they suggest you needed?! normally double skinned insulated stainless steel Easily a grand, installed. Stoves are less. Ah the mythical insulated stainless flue liner again ...;-) Vitally neccesary. |
#33
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Wood stove recommendation
harry Wrote in message:
On Thursday, 8 September 2016 21:30:52 UTC+1, jim wrote: The Natural Philosopher Wrote in message: On 08/09/16 21:13, jim wrote: Davey Wrote in message: On Thu, 8 Sep 2016 11:26:31 -0700 (PDT) harry wrote: On Tuesday, 6 September 2016 17:13:44 UTC+1, R D S wrote: We are looking at woodburning stoves, around max 5kw would suffice. The guy who is going to fit it likes Esse and I quite like this, https://www.google.co.uk/?gws_rd=ssl#q=esse+525+stove Cheapest I can see it for is £670 quid. I don't want to save money buying something cheap and naff but don't want to spend more than necessary. So general opinions would be appreciated on stoves and prices. You may well find the chimney/flue arrangements costs more then the stove. Agreed. The cost of upgrading our chimney was so much that we didn't install the woodburner. What did they suggest you needed?! normally double skinned insulated stainless steel Easily a grand, installed. Stoves are less. Ah the mythical insulated stainless flue liner again ...;-) Vitally neccesary. Here we go, armchair expert strikes again..... -- Jim K ----Android NewsGroup Reader---- http://usenet.sinaapp.com/ |
#34
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Wood stove recommendation
The Natural Philosopher Wrote in message:
On 08/09/16 22:29, jim wrote: The Natural Philosopher Wrote in message: On 08/09/16 21:30, jim wrote: The Natural Philosopher Wrote in message: On 08/09/16 21:13, jim wrote: Davey Wrote in message: On Thu, 8 Sep 2016 11:26:31 -0700 (PDT) harry wrote: On Tuesday, 6 September 2016 17:13:44 UTC+1, R D S wrote: We are looking at woodburning stoves, around max 5kw would suffice. The guy who is going to fit it likes Esse and I quite like this, https://www.google.co.uk/?gws_rd=ssl#q=esse+525+stove Cheapest I can see it for is £670 quid. I don't want to save money buying something cheap and naff but don't want to spend more than necessary. So general opinions would be appreciated on stoves and prices. You may well find the chimney/flue arrangements costs more then the stove. Agreed. The cost of upgrading our chimney was so much that we didn't install the woodburner. What did they suggest you needed?! normally double skinned insulated stainless steel Easily a grand, installed. Stoves are less. Ah the mythical insulated stainless flue liner again ...;-) Nothing mythical about it. That's what I installed. BCO insisted. In an existing flue? yes. How did you install that into an existing flue? (You didn't is the correct answer in case you've forgotten) -- Jim K ----Android NewsGroup Reader---- http://usenet.sinaapp.com/ |
#35
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Wood stove recommendation
harry Wrote in message:
On Thursday, 8 September 2016 21:12:28 UTC+1, jim wrote: harry Wrote in message: On Thursday, 8 September 2016 11:10:56 UTC+1, jim wrote: harry Wrote in message: On Wednesday, 7 September 2016 21:12:21 UTC+1, jim wrote: harry Wrote in message: On Wednesday, 7 September 2016 11:54:03 UTC+1, jim wrote: Mark Allread Wrote in message: On Tue, 06 Sep 2016 20:23:08 +0100, damduck-egg wrote: On Tue, 6 Sep 2016 16:13:41 -0000 (UTC), R D S wrote: We are looking at woodburning stoves, around max 5kw would suffice. The guy who is going to fit it likes Esse and I quite like this, https://www.google.co.uk/?gws_rd=ssl#q=esse+525+stove Which is a steel one and I installed one of these http://salamanderstoves.com/ and am quite pleased with it. that is a cast one Our existing stove is a cast one but we are looking to change next year and cannot decide whether steel or cast is better. Gut feeling is to stick with what we know and go for cast - but these seem to be getting less common. In addition to the OP request can I add a supplementary for views on cast vs steel. Cast. Lots/all steel ones need firebricks inside to protect the steel plate sides/top from warping from the heat.....so it goes up the chimney... rather than in your room... The other purpose of firebricks is to prevent the flame being "quenched" by premature cooling. This leads to unburnt fuel going up the chimney causing soot and tar to be deposited. Premature cooling?? Describe us a scenario where that might happen in a wood stove cycle? When a flame has energy extracted before the combustion process is complete, the combustion process ceases and hence unburnt fuel escapes as gasses, soot and tars. One of the function of firebricks is to stop this happening. http://www.itv.rwth-aachen.de/en/res...at-cold-walls/ So (again) then, apply it to a woodstove? -- Jim K ----Android NewsGroup Reader---- http://usenet.sinaapp.com/ You really are a ****-fer-brains. Any situation where a flame is cooled before combustion is complete causes unburned fuel gases to be generated. The uninsulated metal wall of a wood stove is just one example. The firebricks prevent heat loss until combustion is complete. In theory. Any flue where there is soot or tar deposits indicates that flame quenching has been taking place. Due to bad/cheap design. You still haven't explained what relevance this tripe has to a woodstove.? I'll start you off - they all start cold.....even ones with firebricks in... You carry on if you can.. -- Jim K ----Android NewsGroup Reader---- http://usenet.sinaapp.com/ If you can't understand my simple explanation, you are clearly totally brain dead. As you can't apply your ramblings to the topic at hand why should anyone bother with anything you barf out? -- Jim K ----Android NewsGroup Reader---- http://usenet.sinaapp.com/ |
#36
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Wood stove recommendation
On 09/09/16 07:40, jim wrote:
The Natural Philosopher Wrote in message: On 08/09/16 22:29, jim wrote: The Natural Philosopher Wrote in message: On 08/09/16 21:30, jim wrote: The Natural Philosopher Wrote in message: On 08/09/16 21:13, jim wrote: Davey Wrote in message: On Thu, 8 Sep 2016 11:26:31 -0700 (PDT) harry wrote: On Tuesday, 6 September 2016 17:13:44 UTC+1, R D S wrote: We are looking at woodburning stoves, around max 5kw would suffice. The guy who is going to fit it likes Esse and I quite like this, https://www.google.co.uk/?gws_rd=ssl#q=esse+525+stove Cheapest I can see it for is £670 quid. I don't want to save money buying something cheap and naff but don't want to spend more than necessary. So general opinions would be appreciated on stoves and prices. You may well find the chimney/flue arrangements costs more then the stove. Agreed. The cost of upgrading our chimney was so much that we didn't install the woodburner. What did they suggest you needed?! normally double skinned insulated stainless steel Easily a grand, installed. Stoves are less. Ah the mythical insulated stainless flue liner again ...;-) Nothing mythical about it. That's what I installed. BCO insisted. In an existing flue? yes. How did you install that into an existing flue? (You didn't is the correct answer in case you've forgotten) Dropped it down from the chimney. Was a right bugger as there was a dogleg. You are only allowed flexible flues for chimneys constructed IIRC before 1978. -- "Socialist governments traditionally do make a financial mess. They always run out of other people's money. It's quite a characteristic of them" Margaret Thatcher |
#37
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Wood stove recommendation
In message , jim
writes harry Wrote in message: Ah the mythical insulated stainless flue liner again ...;-) Vitally neccesary. Here we go, armchair expert strikes again..... Not been reading so don't know how we got to this level of vitriol... I installed an enclosed wood burner under BC supervision. The existing Victorian brick chimney was unsuitable for the rigid insulated flue pipe and I didn't want to use vermiculite. The solution was insulating sleeves of glass fibre. Around 25mm thick and 1m long. Sadly they were not available in the 7" size specified by the stove manufacturer. With a 3" strip cut out and bound with stainless wire, they were approved by BC. Epic installation job but works well. The job was completed in 2009 and kept burning during the Oct. to April months ever since. Last year there was some publicity about regular flue cleaning (more than once per season!) As this flue had not been swept and we were thinking of selling the house, I thought I had better check. Peering down from the top with a torch found no soot or condensed tar other than a thin film. Burning dry hardwood will have helped but avoiding condensation of tars in the flue is well worth the effort. The simple test is to close down the combustion air in an effort to keep the fire burning overnight. The immediate result is sooting of the glass. -- Tim Lamb |
#38
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Wood stove recommendation
The chimney will be more expensive than the stove,
selkirk 6" is about £100 a meter (a bit cheaper one ebay but i accidentally bought 5" flue) (but better than burning your house down) A glass front so you can see the flames. A separate air intake will mean much less draughts. [g] |
#39
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Wood stove recommendation
DICEGEORGE Wrote in message:
The chimney will be more expensive than the stove, selkirk 6" is about £100 a meter Way ott IME. 6" what? Specifically (please) -- Jim K ----Android NewsGroup Reader---- http://usenet.sinaapp.com/ |
#40
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Wood stove recommendation
The Natural Philosopher Wrote in message:
On 09/09/16 07:40, jim wrote: The Natural Philosopher Wrote in message: On 08/09/16 22:29, jim wrote: The Natural Philosopher Wrote in message: On 08/09/16 21:30, jim wrote: The Natural Philosopher Wrote in message: On 08/09/16 21:13, jim wrote: Davey Wrote in message: On Thu, 8 Sep 2016 11:26:31 -0700 (PDT) harry wrote: On Tuesday, 6 September 2016 17:13:44 UTC+1, R D S wrote: We are looking at woodburning stoves, around max 5kw would suffice. The guy who is going to fit it likes Esse and I quite like this, https://www.google.co.uk/?gws_rd=ssl#q=esse+525+stove Cheapest I can see it for is £670 quid. I don't want to save money buying something cheap and naff but don't want to spend more than necessary. So general opinions would be appreciated on stoves and prices. You may well find the chimney/flue arrangements costs more then the stove. Agreed. The cost of upgrading our chimney was so much that we didn't install the woodburner. What did they suggest you needed?! normally double skinned insulated stainless steel Easily a grand, installed. Stoves are less. Ah the mythical insulated stainless flue liner again ...;-) Nothing mythical about it. That's what I installed. BCO insisted. In an existing flue? yes. How did you install that into an existing flue? (You didn't is the correct answer in case you've forgotten) Dropped it down from the chimney. Was a right bugger as there was a dogleg. You dropped a sectional flue from the top? You are only allowed flexible flues for chimneys constructed IIRC before 1978. Not read that, gorra link? http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/existing-chimneys.html "Lining existing chimneys Flexible chimney liner may only be used to reline existing chimneys, not for new chimneys. The chimney liner must be suitable for the application and the manufacturer's fitting instructions must be followed. Chimney liner must be installed in one continuous length with no joints within the chimney." Your earlier link was to rigid sectional insulated flue pipe. You sure you've not cooked your link (etc) up? Has been known ;-) -- Jim K ----Android NewsGroup Reader---- http://usenet.sinaapp.com/ |
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