I need to buy some more 2 part epoxy adhesive for odd jobs such as china
repair and metal to metal bonding and general repairs.
I've used standard slow curing araldite in two tubes and been perfectly
happy with it but the question is has there been any useful advances in
the decades since CIBA produced Araldite.

Although I use the quick setting version for bodging etc I'm looking for
the slow cure types that take several hours to "dry"

TIA

Bob

On 24/05/16 16:56, Bob Minchin wrote:
I need to buy some more 2 part epoxy adhesive for odd jobs such as china
repair and metal to metal bonding and general repairs.
I've used standard slow curing araldite in two tubes and been perfectly
happy with it but the question is has there been any useful advances in
the decades since CIBA produced Araldite.

only a couple of hundred...


Although I use the quick setting version for bodging etc I'm looking for
the slow cure types that take several hours to "dry"


those should be stoved in the oven at around 80C for a couple of hours.
Better bond that will resist heat.


TIA

Bob


--
Microsoft : the best reason to go to Linux that ever existed.

Bob Minchin wrote:
I need to buy some more 2 part epoxy adhesive for odd jobs such as china
repair and metal to metal bonding and general repairs.
I've used standard slow curing araldite in two tubes and been perfectly
happy with it but the question is has there been any useful advances in
the decades since CIBA produced Araldite.

Although I use the quick setting version for bodging etc I'm looking for
the slow cure types that take several hours to "dry"

TIA

Bob
The slower the stronger.

On Tuesday, 24 May 2016 16:57:55 UTC+1, Bob Minchin wrote:
I need to buy some more 2 part epoxy adhesive for odd jobs such as china
repair and metal to metal bonding and general repairs.
I've used standard slow curing araldite in two tubes and been perfectly
happy with it but the question is has there been any useful advances in
the decades since CIBA produced Araldite.

Although I use the quick setting version for bodging etc I'm looking for
the slow cure types that take several hours to "dry"

TIA

Bob

"Gorilla" is good stuff. Relies on moisture to make it go off.
Gap filling and expanding. Possibly sticks even better than Aradite.
And you get an awful lot for your money.

On Wednesday, 25 May 2016 07:34:56 UTC+1, harry wrote:
On Tuesday, 24 May 2016 16:57:55 UTC+1, Bob Minchin wrote:
I need to buy some more 2 part epoxy adhesive for odd jobs such as china
repair and metal to metal bonding and general repairs.
I've used standard slow curing araldite in two tubes and been perfectly
happy with it but the question is has there been any useful advances in
the decades since CIBA produced Araldite.

Although I use the quick setting version for bodging etc I'm looking for
the slow cure types that take several hours to "dry"

TIA

Bob

"Gorilla" is good stuff. Relies on moisture to make it go off.
Gap filling and expanding. Possibly sticks even better than Aradite.
And you get an awful lot for your money.

Polyurethane presumably. PU's expanding trick creates foam with almost no strength.

Araldite is an expensive brand of epoxy with no great features. Check out West systems & SP.


NT

On 25/05/16 03:37, F Murtz wrote:
Bob Minchin wrote:
I need to buy some more 2 part epoxy adhesive for odd jobs such as china
repair and metal to metal bonding and general repairs.
I've used standard slow curing araldite in two tubes and been perfectly
happy with it but the question is has there been any useful advances in
the decades since CIBA produced Araldite.

Although I use the quick setting version for bodging etc I'm looking for
the slow cure types that take several hours to "dry"

TIA

Bob
The slower the stronger.

Not really true actually.


--
€œSome people like to travel by train because it combines the slowness of
a car with the cramped public exposure of €¨an airplane.€�

Dennis Miller

wrote:
On Wednesday, 25 May 2016 07:34:56 UTC+1, harry wrote:
On Tuesday, 24 May 2016 16:57:55 UTC+1, Bob Minchin wrote:
I need to buy some more 2 part epoxy adhesive for odd jobs such as china
repair and metal to metal bonding and general repairs.
I've used standard slow curing araldite in two tubes and been perfectly
happy with it but the question is has there been any useful advances in
the decades since CIBA produced Araldite.

Although I use the quick setting version for bodging etc I'm looking for
the slow cure types that take several hours to "dry"

TIA

Bob

"Gorilla" is good stuff. Relies on moisture to make it go off.
Gap filling and expanding. Possibly sticks even better than Aradite.
And you get an awful lot for your money.

Polyurethane presumably. PU's expanding trick creates foam with almost no strength.

Araldite is an expensive brand of epoxy with no great features. Check out West systems & SP.


NT

I've looked at SP and West but the quantities are far greater than I
need. I'm looking at jobs where I'd use less than 1cc/ml of mixed
adhesive. so the typical araldite pack of 2 x15ml (?) are plenty and I'm
quite happy with the cost worked out on a price per repair job basis.
Is there a better 2 tube product for general purpose use these days and
what is it called.

TIA

On 25 May 2016, F Murtz grunted:

Bob Minchin wrote:
I need to buy some more 2 part epoxy adhesive for odd jobs such as china
repair and metal to metal bonding and general repairs.
I've used standard slow curing araldite in two tubes and been perfectly
happy with it but the question is has there been any useful advances in
the decades since CIBA produced Araldite.

Although I use the quick setting version for bodging etc I'm looking for
the slow cure types that take several hours to "dry"

The slower the stronger.

Yeah I hadn't quite appreciated how true that is until I once had to buy a
pack of Araldite Rapid rather than the standard stuff I've used for
decades, which was out of stock - the Rapid was absolute pants.

I share the OP's interest in finding out whether there's a better
alternative to the standard Araldite these days


--
David

Lobster wrote:
On 25 May 2016, F Murtz grunted:

Bob Minchin wrote:
I need to buy some more 2 part epoxy adhesive for odd jobs such as china
repair and metal to metal bonding and general repairs.
I've used standard slow curing araldite in two tubes and been perfectly
happy with it but the question is has there been any useful advances in
the decades since CIBA produced Araldite.

Although I use the quick setting version for bodging etc I'm looking for
the slow cure types that take several hours to "dry"

The slower the stronger.

Yeah I hadn't quite appreciated how true that is until I once had to buy a
pack of Araldite Rapid rather than the standard stuff I've used for
decades, which was out of stock - the Rapid was absolute pants.

I share the OP's interest in finding out whether there's a better
alternative to the standard Araldite these days


Indeed, when I worked in an applied research lab, Araldite rapid or it's
RS components own brand version, was specifically used for knocking up
demonstrator equipment in the knowledge that we could easily break the
bond when needed to either reposition and item or recover an expensive
part fro re-use.

Rapid can also be used to tack parts in place and then reinforce the
area with "full lead" epoxy afterwards.

On 25/05/16 10:09, Lobster wrote:
On 25 May 2016, F Murtz grunted:

Bob Minchin wrote:
I need to buy some more 2 part epoxy adhesive for odd jobs such as china
repair and metal to metal bonding and general repairs.
I've used standard slow curing araldite in two tubes and been perfectly
happy with it but the question is has there been any useful advances in
the decades since CIBA produced Araldite.

Although I use the quick setting version for bodging etc I'm looking for
the slow cure types that take several hours to "dry"

The slower the stronger.

Yeah I hadn't quite appreciated how true that is until I once had to buy a
pack of Araldite Rapid rather than the standard stuff I've used for
decades, which was out of stock - the Rapid was absolute pants.

I share the OP's interest in finding out whether there's a better
alternative to the standard Araldite these days


Millions. I buy from all sorts of places.

Models shops are good.

For metal to metal bonding I find car body filler more reliable. Epoxy
must be mixed exactly and thoroughly, whereas polyester resins are
catalytic.

In all case heating until runny helps mix and makes the epoxy much
stronger and more heat resistant.



--
"The great thing about Glasgow is that if there's a nuclear attack it'll
look exactly the same afterwards."

Billy Connolly

On 25/05/16 09:59, Bob Minchin wrote:
wrote:
On Wednesday, 25 May 2016 07:34:56 UTC+1, harry wrote:
On Tuesday, 24 May 2016 16:57:55 UTC+1, Bob Minchin wrote:
I need to buy some more 2 part epoxy adhesive for odd jobs such as
china
repair and metal to metal bonding and general repairs.
I've used standard slow curing araldite in two tubes and been perfectly
happy with it but the question is has there been any useful advances in
the decades since CIBA produced Araldite.

Although I use the quick setting version for bodging etc I'm looking
for
the slow cure types that take several hours to "dry"

TIA

Bob

"Gorilla" is good stuff. Relies on moisture to make it go off.
Gap filling and expanding. Possibly sticks even better than Aradite.
And you get an awful lot for your money.

Polyurethane presumably. PU's expanding trick creates foam with almost
no strength.

Araldite is an expensive brand of epoxy with no great features. Check
out West systems & SP.


NT

I've looked at SP and West but the quantities are far greater than I
need. I'm looking at jobs where I'd use less than 1cc/ml of mixed
adhesive. so the typical araldite pack of 2 x15ml (?) are plenty and I'm
quite happy with the cost worked out on a price per repair job basis.
Is there a better 2 tube product for general purpose use these days and
what is it called.

TIA

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/?ie=UTF8&...s=30+min+epoxy

Only about 300 to choose from.

--
"It is an established fact to 97% confidence limits that left wing
conspirators see right wing conspiracies everywhere"

On 24/05/2016 16:56, Bob Minchin wrote:

I need to buy some more 2 part epoxy adhesive for odd jobs such as china
repair and metal to metal bonding and general repairs.

For metal to metal work, JB Weld can be good (its a metal loaded epoxy)

I've used standard slow curing araldite in two tubes and been perfectly
happy with it but the question is has there been any useful advances in
the decades since CIBA produced Araldite.

Although I use the quick setting version for bodging etc I'm looking for
the slow cure types that take several hours to "dry"

If you need it in quantity, then have a look at the west systems range.
They let you choose fast and slow set by virtue of changing which
hardener you use. They also supply the resin with a low viscosity, and
you then add different fillers / colours as required to get something
appropriate for your application.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Tue, 24 May 2016 16:56:27 +0100, Bob Minchin
wrote:

I need to buy some more 2 part epoxy adhesive for odd jobs such as china
repair and metal to metal bonding and general repairs.
I've used standard slow curing araldite in two tubes and been perfectly
happy with it but the question is has there been any useful advances in
the decades since CIBA produced Araldite.

Although I use the quick setting version for bodging etc I'm looking for
the slow cure types that take several hours to "dry"

Have you ever tried JB Weld OOI Bob?

I would say it's more suited for metalwork type uses and can be
filled, drilled and tapped when cured.

I recently used some to fill some holes in a hand vice where the PO
had drilled into the vice in several places. Whilst in that case it
was only used as a filler, I needed to be able to file it once cured
to be flush with the remaining metal.

I'm also about to 'repair' a cast ally motor mount for an old British
floor standing pillar drill I'm restoring. The motor (bought from
eBay) wasn't very well packed and must have been dropped (or even put
down heavily) somewhere along the line and it bent the foot slightly
but the seller wouldn't take responsibility for the issue because I
had disposed of the (inadequate, IMHO) packaging. If I had noticed the
damage sooner (it was only cracked and bent a few degrees, not easy to
tell till I placed it on a hard / flat surface) and kept the packing
I'm not sure the courier would have coughed up in any case. ;-(

Anyway, I've stripped the paint and straightened the mount the best I
can, linished the bottom flat and had a 3mm steel plate plasma cut to
suit and I intend to bond the two together with JB Weld. The two parts
will also be bolted together by the motor to mount and mount to drill
bolts.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/.../Mount%201.jpg
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/.../Mount%202.jpg
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/.../Mount%203.jpg

I'll fill the smaller webs with JB Weld and turn and bond spacers in
the voids for the motor bolt holes to resist the clamping force
crushing the ally.

http://www.jb-weld.co.uk/j-b-weld-ep...epoxy-adhesive

Cheers, T i m

p.s. I've also used it to bond an ally collar into a ally thermostat
housing to allow a std Mk2 Ford Escort thermostat housing to carry a
electric fan switch. ;-)

On Wed, 25 May 2016 11:10:02 +0100, John Rumm
wrote:

On 24/05/2016 16:56, Bob Minchin wrote:

I need to buy some more 2 part epoxy adhesive for odd jobs such as china
repair and metal to metal bonding and general repairs.

For metal to metal work, JB Weld can be good (its a metal loaded epoxy)

Doh. I might have posted my message before yours, had I not taken in a
parcel and it distracted me. ;-(

'Great minds' though eh? ;-)

Cheers, T i m

T i m wrote:
On Tue, 24 May 2016 16:56:27 +0100, Bob Minchin
wrote:

I need to buy some more 2 part epoxy adhesive for odd jobs such as china
repair and metal to metal bonding and general repairs.
I've used standard slow curing araldite in two tubes and been perfectly
happy with it but the question is has there been any useful advances in
the decades since CIBA produced Araldite.

Although I use the quick setting version for bodging etc I'm looking for
the slow cure types that take several hours to "dry"

Have you ever tried JB Weld OOI Bob?

I would say it's more suited for metalwork type uses and can be
filled, drilled and tapped when cured.

I recently used some to fill some holes in a hand vice where the PO
had drilled into the vice in several places. Whilst in that case it
was only used as a filler, I needed to be able to file it once cured
to be flush with the remaining metal.

I'm also about to 'repair' a cast ally motor mount for an old British
floor standing pillar drill I'm restoring. The motor (bought from
eBay) wasn't very well packed and must have been dropped (or even put
down heavily) somewhere along the line and it bent the foot slightly
but the seller wouldn't take responsibility for the issue because I
had disposed of the (inadequate, IMHO) packaging. If I had noticed the
damage sooner (it was only cracked and bent a few degrees, not easy to
tell till I placed it on a hard / flat surface) and kept the packing
I'm not sure the courier would have coughed up in any case. ;-(

Anyway, I've stripped the paint and straightened the mount the best I
can, linished the bottom flat and had a 3mm steel plate plasma cut to
suit and I intend to bond the two together with JB Weld. The two parts
will also be bolted together by the motor to mount and mount to drill
bolts.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/.../Mount%201.jpg
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/.../Mount%202.jpg
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/.../Mount%203.jpg

I'll fill the smaller webs with JB Weld and turn and bond spacers in
the voids for the motor bolt holes to resist the clamping force
crushing the ally.

http://www.jb-weld.co.uk/j-b-weld-ep...epoxy-adhesive

Cheers, T i m

p.s. I've also used it to bond an ally collar into a ally thermostat
housing to allow a std Mk2 Ford Escort thermostat housing to carry a
electric fan switch. ;-)


I used JB weld to put back together the two halves of a cracked stove
glass window about a foot square on the front of our gas fire. TBH, I
wasn't expecting much success, since it's an end-to-end repair, and then
tightened down all around the edge, but to my amazement it's still
holding after a few years.

On Wed, 25 May 2016 11:45:33 +0100, "Dan S. MacAbre"
wrote:

snip

http://www.jb-weld.co.uk/j-b-weld-ep...epoxy-adhesive


p.s. I've also used it to bond an ally collar into a ally thermostat
housing to allow a std Mk2 Ford Escort thermostat housing to carry a
electric fan switch. ;-)


I used JB weld to put back together the two halves of a cracked stove
glass window about a foot square on the front of our gas fire. TBH, I
wasn't expecting much success, since it's an end-to-end repair, and then
tightened down all around the edge, but to my amazement it's still
holding after a few years.

Yup, it does seem to be good stuff but not cheap of course.

Cheers, T i m

The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 25/05/16 10:09, Lobster wrote:
On 25 May 2016, F Murtz grunted:

Bob Minchin wrote:
I need to buy some more 2 part epoxy adhesive for odd jobs such as
china
repair and metal to metal bonding and general repairs.
I've used standard slow curing araldite in two tubes and been perfectly
happy with it but the question is has there been any useful advances in
the decades since CIBA produced Araldite.

Although I use the quick setting version for bodging etc I'm looking
for
the slow cure types that take several hours to "dry"

The slower the stronger.

Yeah I hadn't quite appreciated how true that is until I once had to
buy a
pack of Araldite Rapid rather than the standard stuff I've used for
decades, which was out of stock - the Rapid was absolute pants.

I share the OP's interest in finding out whether there's a better
alternative to the standard Araldite these days


Millions. I buy from all sorts of places.

Models shops are good.

For metal to metal bonding I find car body filler more reliable. Epoxy
must be mixed exactly and thoroughly, whereas polyester resins are
catalytic.

In all case heating until runny helps mix and makes the epoxy much
stronger and more heat resistant.



But unhelpful in terms of the question posed! Good brands? Ones you did
not like etc or are they all much of a muchness?

On 25/05/16 13:18, Bob Minchin wrote:
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 25/05/16 10:09, Lobster wrote:
On 25 May 2016, F Murtz grunted:

Bob Minchin wrote:
I need to buy some more 2 part epoxy adhesive for odd jobs such as
china
repair and metal to metal bonding and general repairs.
I've used standard slow curing araldite in two tubes and been
perfectly
happy with it but the question is has there been any useful
advances in
the decades since CIBA produced Araldite.

Although I use the quick setting version for bodging etc I'm looking
for
the slow cure types that take several hours to "dry"

The slower the stronger.

Yeah I hadn't quite appreciated how true that is until I once had to
buy a
pack of Araldite Rapid rather than the standard stuff I've used for
decades, which was out of stock - the Rapid was absolute pants.

I share the OP's interest in finding out whether there's a better
alternative to the standard Araldite these days


Millions. I buy from all sorts of places.

Models shops are good.

For metal to metal bonding I find car body filler more reliable. Epoxy
must be mixed exactly and thoroughly, whereas polyester resins are
catalytic.

In all case heating until runny helps mix and makes the epoxy much
stronger and more heat resistant.



But unhelpful in terms of the question posed! Good brands? Ones you did
not like etc or are they all much of a muchness?

To be honest, once I realised that

(a) epoxy needs to be exactly measured
(b) epoxy needs to be thoroughly mixed
(c) heat makes it runny enough to mix well
(d) heat makes it cure faster, harder and be more heat resistant.

I haven't really had an issue with any epoxy.

If you mix araldite at room temp, when its sets it goes rubbery under
heat. If you heat it till it goes translucent it sets hard as glass and
will crack before it peels.

I've got something called Devcon 2 ton epoxy here that I used to fix
some china. Stoved at about 90C in the oven, its totally heat and water
proof

The formulations are all slightly different - some are for metal, some
for china, some for wood.

I've had most trouble with metal, no matter how well degreased.

'chemical metal' or car body filler (polyester, not epoxy) seems to
bond far better.

However airliner aluminium skins are epoxied to the formers I believe


--
You can get much farther with a kind word and a gun than you can with a
kind word alone.

Al Capone

In message ,
writes
Araldite is an expensive brand of epoxy with no great features. Check
out West systems & SP.

I know this is irrelevant to the original question but FWIW, when we
built the boat nearly 30 years ago, I wrote to Ciba-Geigy (makers of
Araldite) about buying epoxy in quantity. They replied saying they
supplied SP Systems who would supply in quantity.

We used mainly slow resin/hardener mix with the various fillers all from
SP Systems. Fillers included milled wood fibres (or sawdust when running
low), glass bubbles and colloidal silica (to stiffen the mix). We also
used some solvent-loaded epoxy for light coatings.

It all worked best when we first applied raw epoxy to wet what we were
joining, then gradually loaded in the fillers to get the required mix
appropriate to the particular joint, shape or coating needed.

Don't forget that epoxy is affected by light (presumably UV) and in
quantity thermal runaway of the mix can be a problem.
--
Bill

The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 25/05/16 13:18, Bob Minchin wrote:
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 25/05/16 10:09, Lobster wrote:
On 25 May 2016, F Murtz grunted:

Bob Minchin wrote:
I need to buy some more 2 part epoxy adhesive for odd jobs such as
china
repair and metal to metal bonding and general repairs.
I've used standard slow curing araldite in two tubes and been
perfectly
happy with it but the question is has there been any useful
advances in
the decades since CIBA produced Araldite.

Although I use the quick setting version for bodging etc I'm looking
for
the slow cure types that take several hours to "dry"

The slower the stronger.

Yeah I hadn't quite appreciated how true that is until I once had to
buy a
pack of Araldite Rapid rather than the standard stuff I've used for
decades, which was out of stock - the Rapid was absolute pants.

I share the OP's interest in finding out whether there's a better
alternative to the standard Araldite these days


Millions. I buy from all sorts of places.

Models shops are good.

For metal to metal bonding I find car body filler more reliable. Epoxy
must be mixed exactly and thoroughly, whereas polyester resins are
catalytic.

In all case heating until runny helps mix and makes the epoxy much
stronger and more heat resistant.



But unhelpful in terms of the question posed! Good brands? Ones you did
not like etc or are they all much of a muchness?

To be honest, once I realised that

(a) epoxy needs to be exactly measured
(b) epoxy needs to be thoroughly mixed
(c) heat makes it runny enough to mix well
(d) heat makes it cure faster, harder and be more heat resistant.

I haven't really had an issue with any epoxy.

If you mix araldite at room temp, when its sets it goes rubbery under
heat. If you heat it till it goes translucent it sets hard as glass and
will crack before it peels.

I've got something called Devcon 2 ton epoxy here that I used to fix
some china. Stoved at about 90C in the oven, its totally heat and water
proof

The formulations are all slightly different - some are for metal, some
for china, some for wood.

I've had most trouble with metal, no matter how well degreased.

'chemical metal' or car body filler (polyester, not epoxy) seems to
bond far better.

However airliner aluminium skins are epoxied to the formers I believe


Many Thanks
Useful and interesting points.

On Wed, 25 May 2016 18:44:25 +0100, Bill wrote:

snip

Don't forget that epoxy is affected by light (presumably UV) and in
quantity thermal runaway of the mix can be a problem.

I think the latter has been the cause of the loss of many a boat mould
and fibreglass lay-up shed.

This was more in the days when the resin was mixed by the bucketful
then left (by accident) in quantity (and subsequent exothermic
reaction) than now where the glass is chopped and sprayed with the
nozzle mixed resin on demand.

Cheers, T i m

On 25 May 2016, "Dan S. MacAbre" grunted:

I used JB weld to put back together the two halves of a cracked stove
glass window about a foot square on the front of our gas fire. TBH, I
wasn't expecting much success, since it's an end-to-end repair, and
then tightened down all around the edge, but to my amazement it's
still holding after a few years.

Have done just the same with Araldite (standard) with equal success, in
fact

--
David

Lobster wrote:
On 25 May 2016, "Dan S. MacAbre" grunted:

I used JB weld to put back together the two halves of a cracked stove
glass window about a foot square on the front of our gas fire. TBH, I
wasn't expecting much success, since it's an end-to-end repair, and
then tightened down all around the edge, but to my amazement it's
still holding after a few years.

Have done just the same with Araldite (standard) with equal success, in
fact


Good to know. Probably a lot less visible than my dark grey JB Weld
join, too.