Me and mate stripped 90% of the plasterboard from upstairs:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/timjwa...h/27036905425/

The floor is protected with DPM sheet (that was a total win in terms of
clearing up - as was a new Henry which did not clog all the time despite
lots of dust).

Zero mess in the rest of the house as we lobbed the PB out the window
onto the drive - into a taped off area of course!

You now see the timber frame in all its glory - with 50mm celotex (75 in
hipped parts) already fitted when roof was retiled.

That filled a mega-hippo bag (medium one) which was a gross under
estimate! Luckily I only paid for the bag and not a collection, so I'm
booking a midi skip next week (which works out half the price).

Next, I am not too happy with some of the woodwork so we're running 6x2"
all around the top edge screwed into the uprights to add stiffness.

The front-2-middle of those (4 in all) can be screwed to the not
insubstantial flat roof centre beam (a lump of 9x3") and the other ends
to the dormer face support columns - which will add considerable
stiffness to the walls.

We'll attempt to block vapour with foil tape and PU glued sections
between the new wood (exposed to the room) and the old wood (exposed to
the cold side) to avoid too much moisture migrating through.

We'll also add some 2x4" along the sloping edges screwed through the
uprights and into the rafter behind for the same reason.

Screws will be:

http://www.spax.com/uk/craftsmen/scr...l-thread-wirox

which I had to buy from Amazon.de as they're hard to get here - but they
look just the job for pinning wood like this.


That should be a fairly quick job - so then, we'll infill with another
50mm of celotex (25 on hipped) to get 100mm overall as the BCO will be
happy with.


The next planned bit will be to plasterboard under the hipped roof right
into the loft voids (fire protection and celotex is not very good when
bashed about by stored stuff and heads).

The main room walls and flat roof will be battened out with 40mm ish
wood and the plasterboard fixed to that. That, at the expense of a
couple of inches on all room dimensions (still leaves a 2m ceiling and
plenty of space) will leave some nice cable voids.

On 5/15/2016 10:34 PM, Tim Watts wrote:
Me and mate stripped 90% of the plasterboard from upstairs:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/timjwa...h/27036905425/


That really looks excessively clean and tidy!

:-)

Tim Watts wrote:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/timjwa...h/27036905425/

Can't you just lift the arse-end of a Nissan Micra and roll it out of
the way :-P

On 16/05/16 05:22, Andy Burns wrote:
Tim Watts wrote:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/timjwa...h/27036905425/

Can't you just lift the arse-end of a Nissan Micra and roll it out of
the way :-P



I was thinking of shunting it but I'd already called 101 to see if they
could tell the nob end to move it. Next time...

On 15/05/16 23:02, newshound wrote:
On 5/15/2016 10:34 PM, Tim Watts wrote:
Me and mate stripped 90% of the plasterboard from upstairs:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/timjwa...h/27036905425/


That really looks excessively clean and tidy!

:-)


I am impressed with the Henry - the old Vax blew out more dust than it
sucked and the filters clogged fast. I was advised to only get the
"fabric" style bags, not the washable cloth, not the paper.

I was intrigued by the right hand support column, the one that was built
off the chimney (which is fine, it's very substantial). I think we will
plaster up to that but leave it exposed. It's a bit "Devon cottage".

On 15/05/2016 22:34, Tim Watts wrote:
Me and mate stripped 90% of the plasterboard from upstairs:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/timjwa...h/27036905425/

snip - good job! I did similar except lath and plaster. Very messy but
quick enough once I got stuck in.

We'll attempt to block vapour with foil tape and PU glued sections
between the new wood (exposed to the room) and the old wood (exposed to
the cold side) to avoid too much moisture migrating through.


Some of that Celotex looks a little gappy - maybe use expanding foam?
And I aluminium taped all the points where celotex met other materials.


--
Cheers, Rob

On 16/05/16 07:47, RJH wrote:
On 15/05/2016 22:34, Tim Watts wrote:
Me and mate stripped 90% of the plasterboard from upstairs:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/timjwa...h/27036905425/

snip - good job! I did similar except lath and plaster. Very messy but
quick enough once I got stuck in.

We'll attempt to block vapour with foil tape and PU glued sections
between the new wood (exposed to the room) and the old wood (exposed to
the cold side) to avoid too much moisture migrating through.


Some of that Celotex looks a little gappy - maybe use expanding foam?

Indeed I plan to - and fire rated stuff this time

The advantage with over covering with more celotex is that perfection is
not required, but I do want to foam fix some of those side panels so
that they remain in place, and maintain the 1" air gap behind them to
the Tyvek - and fill in some of the larger gaps.

And I aluminium taped all the points where celotex met other materials.

+1 - Have 5 rolls of Bostik Idenden coming - as it is not possible to
(easily) go into the eaves with the 25mm, I will tape the edges of the
boards that go in that general direction (going to take them to the tops
of the joists and/or cable tray - whichever snags first). I reckon that
will stop the edges crumbing.

I'm not going to be a total pedant about taping every last bit - the
lower sections on the hipped are foamed already (roofers did that,
mostly) and it has proved fairly un-draughty whilst the rest was still
plasterboarded.

On 5/16/2016 7:33 AM, Tim Watts wrote:
On 15/05/16 23:02, newshound wrote:
On 5/15/2016 10:34 PM, Tim Watts wrote:
Me and mate stripped 90% of the plasterboard from upstairs:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/timjwa...h/27036905425/


That really looks excessively clean and tidy!

:-)


I am impressed with the Henry - the old Vax blew out more dust than it
sucked and the filters clogged fast. I was advised to only get the
"fabric" style bags, not the washable cloth, not the paper.

Is that these?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-Microfi...AOSwzOxUWLe I

I've only used the ordinary paper ones, which seem pretty good.

Main problem with the Henry for "building" debris is lumps blocking the
narrower hose, I have a Wickes/Earlex wet and dry which takes a nominal
50 mm hose, but the filters and dust release are not good.

I'll use a mains Dyson cylinder or the Henry for final cleanup, I think
the Dyson has more suck, but it is also much more cumbersome. The
cordless Dyson is good for nooks and crannies, but fills up very quickly
around our house!

On 16/05/16 13:01, newshound wrote:
On 5/16/2016 7:33 AM, Tim Watts wrote:
On 15/05/16 23:02, newshound wrote:
On 5/15/2016 10:34 PM, Tim Watts wrote:
Me and mate stripped 90% of the plasterboard from upstairs:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/timjwa...h/27036905425/


That really looks excessively clean and tidy!

:-)


I am impressed with the Henry - the old Vax blew out more dust than it
sucked and the filters clogged fast. I was advised to only get the
"fabric" style bags, not the washable cloth, not the paper.

Is that these?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-Microfi...AOSwzOxUWLe I

Yes indeed it is.

I've only used the ordinary paper ones, which seem pretty good.

My VAX used to block its paper bags in short order - and a lot of the
dust then got through and clogged the large disc filter. These bags seem
to hold the dust much better - they are very similar to the Miele bags
that never seem to let any visible dust through.

Main problem with the Henry for "building" debris is lumps blocking the
narrower hose, I have a Wickes/Earlex wet and dry which takes a nominal
50 mm hose, but the filters and dust release are not good.

Yes - I noticed the hose is smaller - at least at one end. It seems to
be conical along its length which is something I've not seen before.

I'll use a mains Dyson cylinder or the Henry for final cleanup, I think
the Dyson has more suck, but it is also much more cumbersome. The
cordless Dyson is good for nooks and crannies, but fills up very quickly
around our house!

On 15/05/2016 23:02, newshound wrote:
On 5/15/2016 10:34 PM, Tim Watts wrote:
Me and mate stripped 90% of the plasterboard from upstairs:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/timjwa...h/27036905425/


That really looks excessively clean and tidy!

:-)

Where is the RSJ that should be supporting the ridge ?. Assuming
this is a loft or dormer conversion ?.

On 16/05/16 19:39, Andrew wrote:
On 15/05/2016 23:02, newshound wrote:
On 5/15/2016 10:34 PM, Tim Watts wrote:
Me and mate stripped 90% of the plasterboard from upstairs:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/timjwa...h/27036905425/


That really looks excessively clean and tidy!

:-)

Where is the RSJ that should be supporting the ridge ?. Assuming
this is a loft or dormer conversion ?.

Er, it's that 9x3" bloody big beam held up by a column at each end.

The conversion was done in ancient history before anyone cared much (1970s).

I've done some fag packet calcs and even with maximum SE England snow
loading allowed for, the total load on that beam is 1200kg-force or
600kg-f per column. The original 3" column on the left was a bit slim,
which is why we tapped in an extra 4x4" whose max load ability is around
2000kg-f. All columns bear down onto load bearing brick walls.

So I'm not unhappy.

On 16/05/2016 07:28, Tim Watts wrote:
On 16/05/16 05:22, Andy Burns wrote:
Tim Watts wrote:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/timjwa...h/27036905425/

Can't you just lift the arse-end of a Nissan Micra and roll it out of
the way :-P



I was thinking of shunting it but I'd already called 101 to see if they
could tell the nob end to move it. Next time...

The problem with shunting is that I have a tow bar, which is likely to
put a towball shaped hole in the offending car's bumper and will
certainly shatter the numberplate at first touch ... not my problem
though