Just to explore options.

I would assume the exposed parts of a steel "I" bean would be (typically) be boxed in plaster board then skimmed.

Could the vertical faces of the beam be plasterboarded and skimmed, but the underside of the metal painted without being plastered?

Thanks,

Clive

On Friday, 13 May 2016 20:58:55 UTC+1, wrote:
Could the vertical faces of the beam be plasterboarded and skimmed,
but the underside of the metal painted without being plastered?

Depends ... the beam might have to be encased to maintain structural performance in the event of a fire. If you need an unencased beam for aesthetic reasons you'd need to have specified that before specifying the beam.

Owain

In message ,
writes
On Friday, 13 May 2016 20:58:55 UTC+1, wrote:
Could the vertical faces of the beam be plasterboarded and skimmed,
but the underside of the metal painted without being plastered?

Depends ... the beam might have to be encased to maintain structural
performance in the event of a fire. If you need an unencased beam for
aesthetic reasons you'd need to have specified that before specifying
the beam.

BC accepted timber cladding as fire protection of a steel beam here. 20
years back so regs. may have tightened.

The lower section was secured with a Hilti gun!

--
Tim Lamb

On 13/05/2016 21:25, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message ,
writes
On Friday, 13 May 2016 20:58:55 UTC+1, wrote:
Could the vertical faces of the beam be plasterboarded and skimmed,
but the underside of the metal painted without being plastered?

Depends ... the beam might have to be encased to maintain structural
performance in the event of a fire. If you need an unencased beam for
aesthetic reasons you'd need to have specified that before specifying
the beam.

BC accepted timber cladding as fire protection of a steel beam here. 20
years back so regs. may have tightened.

You can get intumescent paints to protect ironwork.

On 13/05/2016 21:30, Fredxxx wrote:
You can get intumescent paints to protect ironwork.

The very large, and relatively new, Sainsbury shop near here has a huge
steel frame all painted - not boarded. It might work very well, but
somehow doesn't inspire confidence in its fireproofing capability.
Especially where it has chipped away.

--
Rod

wrote:
Just to explore options.

I would assume the exposed parts of a steel "I" bean would be
(typically) be boxed in plaster board then skimmed.

Could the vertical faces of the beam be plasterboarded and skimmed,
but the underside of the metal painted without being plastered?

no, the rust shows through.
The normal way of plasterboarding the underside is to use expanding foam as
an adhesive.
Cut the lengths to width etc and have a piece of wood (3X2 or similar) to
fit underneath the plasterboard it's full length so that it goes up square
and doesn't sag anywhere, apply a few thin lines of adhesive (foam) to the
back of the board, put it up in place with the wood underneath and prop the
3x2 up from the floor in a few locations until the foam sets.
You can put the p-board up wider than you need it and cut it off with a saw
after you've noggined the webs and plasterboarded them, affix skim beads,
plaster and paint.

On Fri, 13 May 2016 12:58:52 -0700, clive.r.long wrote:

Just to explore options.

I would assume the exposed parts of a steel "I" bean would be
(typically) be boxed in plaster board then skimmed.

Could the vertical faces of the beam be plasterboarded and skimmed, but
the underside of the metal painted without being plastered?

Thanks,

Clive

Our steel beams (holding up the back of the house) had to be double
plaster boarded all round.

Can't remember how the first layer was fixed to the steel.

Cheers

Dave R



--
Windows 8.1 on PCSpecialist box

In article ,
David wrote:
Our steel beams (holding up the back of the house) had to be double
plaster boarded all round.

Can't remember how the first layer was fixed to the steel.

If it's an 'I' beam, common way was to hammer in wood wedges to the 'I'
and nail the plasterboard into them. And make them overlap the edge of the
beam so the bottom plasterboard could be nailed to the edge. I'm sure
there are ways of making the whole lot smaller, though.

--
*I tried to catch some fog, but I mist.*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
David wrote:
Our steel beams (holding up the back of the house) had to be double
plaster boarded all round.

Can't remember how the first layer was fixed to the steel.

If it's an 'I' beam, common way was to hammer in wood wedges to the
'I' and nail the plasterboard into them. And make them overlap the
edge of the beam so the bottom plasterboard could be nailed to the
edge. I'm sure there are ways of making the whole lot smaller, though.

It used to be done like this, but the bottom of the wooden noggins had to
overlap by the same amount on each side which often proved haphazzard, and
even then, trying to get a fixing into endgrain was a PITA. noggins are
still used for the web (the I) but nowadays, strips of PB are glued to the
flat underside using foam or grab adhesive