Spotted that CPC have these, new.

Not cheap though. 8.59+vat.

6, 10, 16, 20, 32, 40A.

The 10 seems a bit of an oddity.

--
(\_/)
(='.'=) Bunny says: Windows 10? Nein danke!
(")_(")

In article ,
Mike Tomlinson wrote:

Spotted that CPC have these, new.

Not cheap though. 8.59+vat.

6, 10, 16, 20, 32, 40A.

The 10 seems a bit of an oddity.

Ideal for a lighting circuit with more load than usual. I've got one here.

--
*Why is it considered necessary to screw down the lid of a coffin?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
Mike Tomlinson wrote:

Spotted that CPC have these, new.

Not cheap though. 8.59+vat.

6, 10, 16, 20, 32, 40A.

The 10 seems a bit of an oddity.

I had to upgrade the 6A lighting breaker to 10A in our village hall after 2
500w floodlights were added to the lighting circuit.

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England

En el artículo , charles
escribió:

I had to upgrade the 6A lighting breaker to 10A in our village hall after 2
500w floodlights were added to the lighting circuit.

I was going to ask if the wiring is up to it, but on googling see that
1mm^2 is ok to 10A and 1.5mm^2 to 15A.

--
(\_/)
(='.'=) Bunny says: Windows 10? Nein danke!
(")_(")

En el artículo , Dave Plowman (News)
escribió:

Ideal for a lighting circuit with more load than usual. I've got one here.

Thanks. Not seen those in 10A before.

--
(\_/)
(='.'=) Bunny says: Windows 10? Nein danke!
(")_(")

"Mike Tomlinson" wrote in message
...
En el artículo , charles
escribió:

I had to upgrade the 6A lighting breaker to 10A in our village hall after
2
500w floodlights were added to the lighting circuit.

I was going to ask if the wiring is up to it, but on googling see that
1mm^2 is ok to 10A and 1.5mm^2 to 15A.


It's not quite that simple.

1mm is OK for 16A when clipped in free air and 1.5mm for 20A.

Surround that cable with insulation and you half the current carrying
capacity.

Now that is usually only a problem IF you are near full load or IF you have
very long cable runs so that the earth loop is too high to trip the MCB in
the event of a fault.

The second one is not very likely to occur on most properties. The first one
depends on the lights that are fitted. A couple of 500W halogens could shove
things over the limits

--
Adam

In article , ARW
wrote:
"Mike Tomlinson" wrote in message
...
En el artículo , charles
escribió:

I had to upgrade the 6A lighting breaker to 10A in our village hall
after 2 500w floodlights were added to the lighting circuit.

I was going to ask if the wiring is up to it, but on googling see that
1mm^2 is ok to 10A and 1.5mm^2 to 15A.


It's not quite that simple.

1mm is OK for 16A when clipped in free air and 1.5mm for 20A.

Surround that cable with insulation and you half the current carrying
capacity.

Now that is usually only a problem IF you are near full load or IF you
have very long cable runs so that the earth loop is too high to trip the
MCB in the event of a fault.

The second one is not very likely to occur on most properties. The first
one depends on the lights that are fitted. A couple of 500W halogens
could shove things over the limits

I don't have any old copies of the Regs to give me current capacities, but
our hall was wired in 3/.029. ISTR it was a bit more than 1.5mm

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England

On 11/02/16 18:28, Mike Tomlinson wrote:

Spotted that CPC have these, new.

Not cheap though. 8.59+vat.

6, 10, 16, 20, 32, 40A.

The 10 seems a bit of an oddity.


10A is actually a standard value, although you don't see it much in
domestic environments.

"charles" wrote in message
...
In article , ARW
wrote:
"Mike Tomlinson" wrote in message
...
En el artículo , charles
escribió:

I had to upgrade the 6A lighting breaker to 10A in our village hall
after 2 500w floodlights were added to the lighting circuit.

I was going to ask if the wiring is up to it, but on googling see that
1mm^2 is ok to 10A and 1.5mm^2 to 15A.


It's not quite that simple.

1mm is OK for 16A when clipped in free air and 1.5mm for 20A.

Surround that cable with insulation and you half the current carrying
capacity.

Now that is usually only a problem IF you are near full load or IF you
have very long cable runs so that the earth loop is too high to trip the
MCB in the event of a fault.

The second one is not very likely to occur on most properties. The first
one depends on the lights that are fitted. A couple of 500W halogens
could shove things over the limits

I don't have any old copies of the Regs to give me current capacities, but
our hall was wired in 3/.029. ISTR it was a bit more than 1.5mm


http://www.electrical-contractor.net/PC/IEE1966_T3.JPG

any good sir?

Now what is this voltage drop per 100 ft:-)?

--
Adam

On 11/02/2016 22:25, ARW wrote:
"charles" wrote in message
...
In article , ARW
wrote:
"Mike Tomlinson" wrote in message
...
En el artículo , charles
escribió:

I had to upgrade the 6A lighting breaker to 10A in our village hall
after 2 500w floodlights were added to the lighting circuit.

I was going to ask if the wiring is up to it, but on googling see that
1mm^2 is ok to 10A and 1.5mm^2 to 15A.


It's not quite that simple.

1mm is OK for 16A when clipped in free air and 1.5mm for 20A.

Surround that cable with insulation and you half the current carrying
capacity.

Now that is usually only a problem IF you are near full load or IF you
have very long cable runs so that the earth loop is too high to trip the
MCB in the event of a fault.

The second one is not very likely to occur on most properties. The first
one depends on the lights that are fitted. A couple of 500W halogens
could shove things over the limits

I don't have any old copies of the Regs to give me current capacities,
but
our hall was wired in 3/.029. ISTR it was a bit more than 1.5mm


http://www.electrical-contractor.net/PC/IEE1966_T3.JPG

any good sir?

Oh, handy...

ok wikied it:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/...mperial_Cables

anyone have a source for the sheath sizes?

Now what is this voltage drop per 100 ft:-)?



--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

In article , ARW
wrote:
"charles" wrote in message
...
In article , ARW
wrote:
"Mike Tomlinson" wrote in message
...
En el artículo , charles
escribió:

I had to upgrade the 6A lighting breaker to 10A in our village hall
after 2 500w floodlights were added to the lighting circuit.

I was going to ask if the wiring is up to it, but on googling see
that 1mm^2 is ok to 10A and 1.5mm^2 to 15A.


It's not quite that simple.

1mm is OK for 16A when clipped in free air and 1.5mm for 20A.

Surround that cable with insulation and you half the current carrying
capacity.

Now that is usually only a problem IF you are near full load or IF you
have very long cable runs so that the earth loop is too high to trip
the MCB in the event of a fault.

The second one is not very likely to occur on most properties. The
first one depends on the lights that are fitted. A couple of 500W
halogens could shove things over the limits

I don't have any old copies of the Regs to give me current capacities,
but our hall was wired in 3/.029. ISTR it was a bit more than 1.5mm


http://www.electrical-contractor.net/PC/IEE1966_T3.JPG

any good sir?

Excellent - that was the small brown book?

Now what is this voltage drop per 100 ft:-)?

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England

On 11/02/2016 18:28, Mike Tomlinson wrote:

Spotted that CPC have these, new.

Not cheap though. 8.59+vat.

6, 10, 16, 20, 32, 40A.

The 10 seems a bit of an oddity.


Do they have any benefit?

The switch lever sticks out a little way, can you use the fuse cover if
you install them?


--
Michael Chare

En el artículo , Michael Chare mUNDERSCOREn
escribió:

can you use the fuse cover if
you install them?

No. Some of the newer ones (beige) have a knockout in the fuse cover so
you can fit it over the MCBs, but I don't think many people bother.

--
(\_/)
(='.'=) Bunny says: Windows 10? Nein danke!
(")_(")

In article ,
Mike Tomlinson wrote:

Spotted that CPC have these, new.

Not cheap though. 8.59+vat.

6, 10, 16, 20, 32, 40A.

The 10 seems a bit of an oddity.

Surely if you have such an ancient unit, it would make more sense to
change it for a modern one with RCD protection?

You can get decent deals on fully populated ones. And it's not that
difficult a job to fit, if you take your time and label things carefully.

--
*The early bird gets the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Mike Tomlinson wrote:

Spotted that CPC have these, new.

Not cheap though. 8.59+vat.

6, 10, 16, 20, 32, 40A.

The 10 seems a bit of an oddity.

Surely if you have such an ancient unit, it would make more sense to
change it for a modern one with RCD protection?

You can get decent deals on fully populated ones. And it's not that
difficult a job to fit, if you take your time and label things carefully.


Putting the possible NE faults or borrowed neutrals to one side that is not
a bad DIY idea and could be cheaper.

Any circuits that trip the RCD could be put on the non RCD side until any
problems are fixed.

Prat P is ignored but who cares?

--
Adam

En el artículo , Dave Plowman (News)
escribió:

Surely if you have such an ancient unit, it would make more sense to
change it for a modern one with RCD protection?

Agreed, I was only commenting on how the plug-in MCBs to replace fuses
are still available new for such antique kit.

The price, though, as you said, is such that it would be cheaper to buy
a new CU fully populated with breakers for not much more than the Wylex
plug-in replacements alone.

One of my properties has the Wylex plug-in MCBs, which were there when I
bought it. Since the CU itself and the wiring are in good condition, I
left it alone. It was useful to be able to add a 40A plug-in MCB
though, plus an external RCD, for an electric shower.

--
(\_/)
(='.'=) Bunny says: Windows 10? Nein danke!
(")_(")