I'll start off by saying please DO NOT reply saying rip it all out and fit a combi, because that just isn't going to happen.

This is not an emergency yet but by fortunate chance I've just spotted that the steel water tank I currently have has a very low frequency drip from a corrosion point. Bucket is now in place - not that that will help much if it goes through in a oner mind you !

There are height and possible weight constraints on where I can fit the tank. My problem is that the current tank is 35 gallons and so far all the loft tanks I can find are either 25 or 50 gallons. A 25 gallon tank will go in fairly easily - 50 gallon one will add 150lb to the structure and be significantly more of a pain to fit.

Baths are popular in our house so do I have to go for the 50 size and shoe-horn it in ?

Thanks
Rob

On 21/02/2015 18:39, robgraham wrote:
I'll start off by saying please DO NOT reply saying rip it all out and fit a combi, because that just isn't going to happen.

This is not an emergency yet but by fortunate chance I've just spotted that the steel water tank I currently have has a very low frequency drip from a corrosion point. Bucket is now in place - not that that will help much if it goes through in a oner mind you !

There are height and possible weight constraints on where I can fit the tank. My problem is that the current tank is 35 gallons and so far all the loft tanks I can find are either 25 or 50 gallons. A 25 gallon tank will go in fairly easily - 50 gallon one will add 150lb to the structure and be significantly more of a pain to fit.

Baths are popular in our house so do I have to go for the 50 size and shoe-horn it in ?

Because of loft access restraints, I fitted 2 x 25 gallon tanks, each
with its own water inlet feed, and linked the outlets.

--
Colin Bignell

A lot of people have done variations on this.
The big problem is hoe the heck to get the old tank out. Seems it was put in
before the roof went on or before the ceiling underneath was finished. Its
been in the loft for some years now and its a real pain in the neck, it
certainly was for the loft laggers.

I've heard far too many horror stories about cutting it up and setting the
roof on fire to chance anyone doing it. Maybe I need a laser cutter...:-)
Brian

--
From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active
"Nightjar .me.uk" "cpb"@ insert my surname here wrote in message
...
On 21/02/2015 18:39, robgraham wrote:
I'll start off by saying please DO NOT reply saying rip it all out and
fit a combi, because that just isn't going to happen.

This is not an emergency yet but by fortunate chance I've just spotted
that the steel water tank I currently have has a very low frequency drip
from a corrosion point. Bucket is now in place - not that that will help
much if it goes through in a oner mind you !

There are height and possible weight constraints on where I can fit the
tank. My problem is that the current tank is 35 gallons and so far all
the loft tanks I can find are either 25 or 50 gallons. A 25 gallon tank
will go in fairly easily - 50 gallon one will add 150lb to the structure
and be significantly more of a pain to fit.

Baths are popular in our house so do I have to go for the 50 size and
shoe-horn it in ?

Because of loft access restraints, I fitted 2 x 25 gallon tanks, each with
its own water inlet feed, and linked the outlets.

--
Colin Bignell

On 22/02/2015 09:57, Brian Gaff wrote:
A lot of people have done variations on this.
The big problem is hoe the heck to get the old tank out. Seems it was put in
before the roof went on or before the ceiling underneath was finished. Its
been in the loft for some years now and its a real pain in the neck, it
certainly was for the loft laggers.

I've heard far too many horror stories about cutting it up and setting the
roof on fire to chance anyone doing it. Maybe I need a laser cutter...:-)
Brian

I would use a powered nibbler.

--
Colin Bignell

In message , Nightjar
writes
On 22/02/2015 09:57, Brian Gaff wrote:
A lot of people have done variations on this.
The big problem is hoe the heck to get the old tank out. Seems it was put in
before the roof went on or before the ceiling underneath was finished. Its
been in the loft for some years now and its a real pain in the neck, it
certainly was for the loft laggers.

I've heard far too many horror stories about cutting it up and setting the
roof on fire to chance anyone doing it. Maybe I need a laser cutter...:-)
Brian

I would use a powered nibbler.

I'm surprised that no one has suggested the daft idea of using an angle
grinder yet.

Surely removal is best done as the reverse of installation, take the
roof off.



--
Bill

In article , Bill
wrote:
In message , Nightjar
writes
On 22/02/2015 09:57, Brian Gaff wrote:
A lot of people have done variations on this. The big problem is hoe
the heck to get the old tank out. Seems it was put in before the roof
went on or before the ceiling underneath was finished. Its been in the
loft for some years now and its a real pain in the neck, it certainly
was for the loft laggers.

I've heard far too many horror stories about cutting it up and setting
the roof on fire to chance anyone doing it. Maybe I need a laser
cutter...:-) Brian

I would use a powered nibbler.

I'm surprised that no one has suggested the daft idea of using an angle
grinder yet.

Surely removal is best done as the reverse of installation, take the
roof off.

I used a heavy duty jig saw to get out the old tank in my last house.

--
From KT24 in Surrey

Using a RISC OS computer running v5.18

"Brian Gaff" wrote in message
...
A lot of people have done variations on this.
The big problem is hoe the heck to get the old tank out. Seems it was put
in before the roof went on or before the ceiling underneath was finished.

When I fitted the new CH system at the gf parents house the old tank was in
the airing cupboard but it was to large to remove because the airing
cupboards door frame was installed after the tank.

The old tank was removed by the gf's dad who went upstairs with a sledge
hammer whilst shouting "I'll get the ****er out".



--
Adam

In article , ARW
wrote:
"Brian Gaff" wrote in message
...
A lot of people have done variations on this. The big problem is hoe the
heck to get the old tank out. Seems it was put in before the roof went
on or before the ceiling underneath was finished.

When I fitted the new CH system at the gf parents house the old tank was
in the airing cupboard but it was to large to remove because the airing
cupboards door frame was installed after the tank.

The old tank was removed by the gf's dad who went upstairs with a sledge
hammer whilst shouting "I'll get the ****er out".

"Right" said Fred

--
From KT24 in Surrey

Using a RISC OS computer running v5.18

On 22/02/2015 18:11, ARW wrote:
"Brian Gaff" wrote in message
...
A lot of people have done variations on this.
The big problem is hoe the heck to get the old tank out. Seems it was
put in before the roof went on or before the ceiling underneath was
finished.

When I fitted the new CH system at the gf parents house the old tank was
in the airing cupboard but it was to large to remove because the airing
cupboards door frame was installed after the tank.

The old tank was removed by the gf's dad who went upstairs with a sledge
hammer whilst shouting "I'll get the ****er out".




And what else did he demolish in the process?
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

Exactly what we did when we were on a private spring with very low pressure, so the tanks took ages to refill.

Jonathan

On 21/02/2015 19:11, Chris Hogg wrote:
On Sat, 21 Feb 2015 18:46:14 +0000, Nightjar "cpb"@ insert my
surname here.me.uk wrote:

On 21/02/2015 18:39, robgraham wrote:
I'll start off by saying please DO NOT reply saying rip it all out and fit a combi, because that just isn't going to happen.

This is not an emergency yet but by fortunate chance I've just spotted that the steel water tank I currently have has a very low frequency drip from a corrosion point. Bucket is now in place - not that that will help much if it goes through in a oner mind you !

There are height and possible weight constraints on where I can fit the tank. My problem is that the current tank is 35 gallons and so far all the loft tanks I can find are either 25 or 50 gallons. A 25 gallon tank will go in fairly easily - 50 gallon one will add 150lb to the structure and be significantly more of a pain to fit.

Baths are popular in our house so do I have to go for the 50 size and shoe-horn it in ?

Because of loft access restraints, I fitted 2 x 25 gallon tanks, each
with its own water inlet feed, and linked the outlets.


As you'd linked the outlets, you'd actually need inlet feed to only
one of the tanks. The other would fill through the link.


The two inlets ensure that each cistern is filled with fresh water.
Without that, you risk there being dead water that never leaves one of
them. Subject to the available water flow from the mains, it can also
give a faster refill time.

--
Colin Bignell

On 21/02/2015 19:18, Nightjar "cpb"@ wrote:
On 21/02/2015 19:11, Chris Hogg wrote:
On Sat, 21 Feb 2015 18:46:14 +0000, Nightjar "cpb"@ insert my
surname here.me.uk wrote:

On 21/02/2015 18:39, robgraham wrote:
I'll start off by saying please DO NOT reply saying rip it all out
and fit a combi, because that just isn't going to happen.

This is not an emergency yet but by fortunate chance I've just
spotted that the steel water tank I currently have has a very low
frequency drip from a corrosion point. Bucket is now in place - not
that that will help much if it goes through in a oner mind you !

There are height and possible weight constraints on where I can fit
the tank. My problem is that the current tank is 35 gallons and so
far all the loft tanks I can find are either 25 or 50 gallons. A 25
gallon tank will go in fairly easily - 50 gallon one will add 150lb
to the structure and be significantly more of a pain to fit.

Baths are popular in our house so do I have to go for the 50 size
and shoe-horn it in ?

Because of loft access restraints, I fitted 2 x 25 gallon tanks, each
with its own water inlet feed, and linked the outlets.


As you'd linked the outlets, you'd actually need inlet feed to only
one of the tanks. The other would fill through the link.


The two inlets ensure that each cistern is filled with fresh water.
Without that, you risk there being dead water that never leaves one of
them. Subject to the available water flow from the mains, it can also
give a faster refill time.

Personally, I would have the cistern on one side and outlet on the other.

Over time, with exacerbated wear, you'll likely find one will cistern
will function, and the other will eventually seize up from little use.

On 21/02/2015 19:44, Fredxxx wrote:
On 21/02/2015 19:18, Nightjar "cpb"@ wrote:
On 21/02/2015 19:11, Chris Hogg wrote:
On Sat, 21 Feb 2015 18:46:14 +0000, Nightjar "cpb"@ insert my
surname here.me.uk wrote:

On 21/02/2015 18:39, robgraham wrote:
I'll start off by saying please DO NOT reply saying rip it all out
and fit a combi, because that just isn't going to happen.

This is not an emergency yet but by fortunate chance I've just
spotted that the steel water tank I currently have has a very low
frequency drip from a corrosion point. Bucket is now in place - not
that that will help much if it goes through in a oner mind you !

There are height and possible weight constraints on where I can fit
the tank. My problem is that the current tank is 35 gallons and so
far all the loft tanks I can find are either 25 or 50 gallons. A 25
gallon tank will go in fairly easily - 50 gallon one will add 150lb
to the structure and be significantly more of a pain to fit.

Baths are popular in our house so do I have to go for the 50 size
and shoe-horn it in ?

Because of loft access restraints, I fitted 2 x 25 gallon tanks, each
with its own water inlet feed, and linked the outlets.


As you'd linked the outlets, you'd actually need inlet feed to only
one of the tanks. The other would fill through the link.


The two inlets ensure that each cistern is filled with fresh water.
Without that, you risk there being dead water that never leaves one of
them. Subject to the available water flow from the mains, it can also
give a faster refill time.

Personally, I would have the cistern on one side and outlet on the other.

If you mean the inlet on one side and the outlet on the other, that is
usual practice. Again, it encourages water changes.

Over time, with exacerbated wear, you'll likely find one will cistern
will function, and the other will eventually seize up from little use.

Because the outlets are linked, water is drawn from both more or less
equally. It has worked well for 20 years so far.

--
Colin Bignell

That would depend on the what was limiting the flow rate, not always
necessary anyway, and two tanks in series would fill as fast (or as
slowly) as a single larger tank.


The outlet flow rate would normally exceed the inlet flow rate if you
are bath filling with 22mm pipes or larger.

On 22/02/2015 08:01, Chris Hogg wrote:
On Sat, 21 Feb 2015 19:18:03 +0000, Nightjar "cpb"@ insert my
surname here.me.uk wrote:
....
The two inlets ensure that each cistern is filled with fresh water.
Without that, you risk there being dead water that never leaves one of
them.

That seems pretty unlikely, but if it's a concern, link the tanks in
series: top feed - tank 1 - bottom outlet - bottom feed - tank 2 -
bottom outlet to house taps etc...

That still risks having dead water piston up and down in the second cistern.


--
Colin Bignell

Ah, that depends on where the link is hi eight wise and if that c got
clogged one might have a problem.
However most of the people do use this method, it has to be said.
brian

--
From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active
"Chris Hogg" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 21 Feb 2015 18:46:14 +0000, Nightjar "cpb"@ insert my
surname here.me.uk wrote:

On 21/02/2015 18:39, robgraham wrote:
I'll start off by saying please DO NOT reply saying rip it all out and
fit a combi, because that just isn't going to happen.

This is not an emergency yet but by fortunate chance I've just spotted
that the steel water tank I currently have has a very low frequency drip
from a corrosion point. Bucket is now in place - not that that will
help much if it goes through in a oner mind you !

There are height and possible weight constraints on where I can fit the
tank. My problem is that the current tank is 35 gallons and so far all
the loft tanks I can find are either 25 or 50 gallons. A 25 gallon tank
will go in fairly easily - 50 gallon one will add 150lb to the structure
and be significantly more of a pain to fit.

Baths are popular in our house so do I have to go for the 50 size and
shoe-horn it in ?

Because of loft access restraints, I fitted 2 x 25 gallon tanks, each
with its own water inlet feed, and linked the outlets.


As you'd linked the outlets, you'd actually need inlet feed to only
one of the tanks. The other would fill through the link.

--

Chris

On 21/02/2015 18:39, robgraham wrote:

There are height and possible weight constraints on where I can fit the tank. My problem is that the current tank is 35 gallons and so far all the loft tanks I can find are either 25 or 50 gallons. A 25 gallon tank will go in fairly easily - 50 gallon one will add 150lb to the structure and be significantly more of a pain to fit.

Baths are popular in our house so do I have to go for the 50 size and shoe-horn it in ?


Make sure it goes through the loft hatch - the original may have been
fitted before the roof went on.

Size = Fit two smaller tanks

Weight = fit larger tank but only 2/3rd fill it.

You can also get coffin tanks of 100 gallons - long and thin to fit the
hatch opening and to spread the load


--
mailto: news {at} admac {dot] myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

robgraham wrote:

There are height and possible weight constraints on where I can fit
the tank. My problem is that the current tank is 35 gallons and so
far all the loft tanks I can find are either 25 or 50 gallons. A 25
gallon tank will go in fairly easily - 50 gallon one will add 150lb
to the structure and be significantly more of a pain to fit.

Unless you've got a particularly good bath tap flow and low mains flow &
pressure then any old size tank ought to do as, when the inlet is at
full chat, it'll fill faster than it'll empty.

--
Scott

Where are we going and why am I in this handbasket?

On 21/02/2015 20:04, Scott M wrote:
robgraham wrote:

There are height and possible weight constraints on where I can fit
the tank. My problem is that the current tank is 35 gallons and so
far all the loft tanks I can find are either 25 or 50 gallons. A 25
gallon tank will go in fairly easily - 50 gallon one will add 150lb
to the structure and be significantly more of a pain to fit.

Unless you've got a particularly good bath tap flow and low mains flow &
pressure then any old size tank ought to do as, when the inlet is at
full chat, it'll fill faster than it'll empty.

That does depend on the cold supply being sufficient. I have known an
instance where this was not the case and regularly caused airlocks in
the hot water supply.

In message , Fredxxx
writes
On 21/02/2015 20:04, Scott M wrote:
robgraham wrote:

There are height and possible weight constraints on where I can fit
the tank. My problem is that the current tank is 35 gallons and so
far all the loft tanks I can find are either 25 or 50 gallons. A 25
gallon tank will go in fairly easily - 50 gallon one will add 150lb
to the structure and be significantly more of a pain to fit.

Unless you've got a particularly good bath tap flow and low mains flow &
pressure then any old size tank ought to do as, when the inlet is at
full chat, it'll fill faster than it'll empty.

That does depend on the cold supply being sufficient. I have known an
instance where this was not the case and regularly caused airlocks in
the hot water supply.

Yup, ours fills slower than it empties. There is a pump shifting a fair
bit through the shower, or when filling the bath though.

I keep meaning to fit a new ball cock which might speeds things up - it
leaks slowly and overflows when we are away as well (though I think it
will still struggle to keep up). But it's never a problem, I've got
about 1000L (200 gal?) up there :-)
--
Chris French

On 21/02/2015 18:39, robgraham wrote:
I'll start off by saying please DO NOT reply saying rip it all out and fit a combi, because that just isn't going to happen.

This is not an emergency yet but by fortunate chance I've just spotted that the steel water tank I currently have has a very low frequency drip from a corrosion point. Bucket is now in place - not that that will help much if it goes through in a oner mind you !

There are height and possible weight constraints on where I can fit the tank. My problem is that the current tank is 35 gallons and so far all the loft tanks I can find are either 25 or 50 gallons. A 25 gallon tank will go in fairly easily - 50 gallon one will add 150lb to the structure and be significantly more of a pain to fit.

Baths are popular in our house so do I have to go for the 50 size and shoe-horn it in ?

Thanks
Rob


What size is your hot cylinder? You need to be able to get all the hot
water out of the cylinder - otherwise you have capacity which you can
never use. This doesn't *necessarily* mean that the capacity of the
header needs to be greater than that of the cylinder because you'll have
mains cold coming in at the same time.

It would be worth doing an experiment. Run a bath until the hot tap runs
cold, and monitor how low the level gets in the header tank. If it never
has less than 10 gallons in it, a 25 gallon tank may be sufficient.

If you *do* need a larger tank, you don't need to completely fill it -
as others have said - if weight is a problem. You can mount the ball
valve lower down and/or adjust the arm so that it cuts off at about 35
gallons. [You'll need the overflow pipe to be low as well, to prevent
the level rising if the ball valve fails to shut off.]
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

In article ,
robgraham writes
I'll start off by saying please DO NOT reply saying rip it all out and fit a combi,
because that just isn't going to happen.

This is not an emergency yet but by fortunate chance I've just spotted that the
steel water tank I currently have has a very low frequency drip from a corrosion
point. Bucket is now in place - not that that will help much if it goes through in a
oner mind you !

There are height and possible weight constraints on where I can fit the tank. My
problem is that the current tank is 35 gallons and so far all the loft tanks I can find
are either 25 or 50 gallons. A 25 gallon tank will go in fairly easily - 50 gallon one
will add 150lb to the structure and be significantly more of a pain to fit.

Baths are popular in our house so do I have to go for the 50 size and shoe-horn it in
?

A good sized bath is 20 gallons so I'd suggest that 50 gallons would
give a nice reserve.

Life is simpler if you have a single tank as you don't need to consider
how to share them properly and there is absolutely no risk of stagnancy.
2 daisy changed 25 gallon tanks with a single fill on the most upstream
is pretty foolproof if the slowest to top-up. Twin tanks with a fill in
each and paralleled outlets can give more peak flow and can recharge
more quickly but there is a definite risk of stagnancy in one of the
tanks unless it is carefully tuned. Chose the former unless you have an
overriding need to provide lots of water at a high flow rate and fast
re-charge.

--
fred
it's a ba-na-na . . . .

fred wrote:

A good sized bath is 20 gallons so I'd suggest that 50 gallons would
give a nice reserve.

I thought the standard is closer to 40 gallons. One of ours is over 50.

In article , Capitol
writes
fred wrote:

A good sized bath is 20 gallons so I'd suggest that 50 gallons would
give a nice reserve.

I thought the standard is closer to 40 gallons. One of ours is over 50.

Is that occupied or not :-)

From measurements of mine here (good sized CI one) it appears to be 48
gals to the overflow.

Occupied with Joe average I'd say 28-30 gals to overflowing so I'll
split the difference with you :-).

--
fred
it's a ba-na-na . . . .

On Sunday, February 22, 2015 at 12:51:09 PM UTC, fred wrote:
In article , Capitol
writes
fred wrote:

A good sized bath is 20 gallons so I'd suggest that 50 gallons would
give a nice reserve.

I thought the standard is closer to 40 gallons. One of ours is over 50.

Is that occupied or not :-)

From measurements of mine here (good sized CI one) it appears to be 48
gals to the overflow.

Occupied with Joe average I'd say 28-30 gals to overflowing so I'll
split the difference with you :-).

--
fred
it's a ba-na-na . . . .

Thanks for your comments guys - I'll try Harry's ( and possibly others!) suggestion of seeing how much the bath takes. Just remember to turn off the inlet first, or tie up the ball!

I'm not sure now that I think about it that the additional weight of the 50 gallons tank is so much concern - I think I will rig up a suitable pole to measure the ceiling height before and then after filling the bath and see if there is any movement at all. The existing tank sits on the roof ties with vertical straps between the rafters and ceiling joists so the weight is going both up and down. And all these timbers are big, old-fashioned ones..

Rob

On 22/02/2015 21:23, robgraham wrote:


Thanks for your comments guys - I'll try Harry's ( and possibly others!) suggestion of seeing how much the bath takes. Just remember to turn off the inlet first, or tie up the ball!


I was one of those suggesting running a bath until the hot tap runs
cold, and monitoring the level in the header. I *wasn't* suggesting
turning off the supply because the supply will there in 'real life' and
will replenish some of the cold as it is used. If you turn it off,
you'll get an unduly pessimistic result.
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

"robgraham" wrote in message
...
I'll start off by saying please DO NOT reply saying rip it all out and fit a
combi, because that just isn't going to happen.

This is not an emergency yet but by fortunate chance I've just spotted that
the steel water tank I currently have has a very low frequency drip from a
corrosion point. Bucket is now in place - not that that will help much if
it goes through in a oner mind you !

There are height and possible weight constraints on where I can fit the
tank. My problem is that the current tank is 35 gallons and so far all the
loft tanks I can find are either 25 or 50 gallons. A 25 gallon tank will go
in fairly easily - 50 gallon one will add 150lb to the structure and be
significantly more of a pain to fit.

Baths are popular in our house so do I have to go for the 50 size and
shoe-horn it in ?

All dpends on you mains water inlet pressure and the size of your baths.

The danger is that as you fill the bath, the loft tank is completely
drained. (ie the water is running out faster than it comes in and catches up
with it.)
As the water level in the tank falls, it comes in faster as the float valve
opens more. (Until the ball is left hanging)

So, fill the bath and observe the water level in your existing tank.
If there is plenty of water remaining in the tank when the bath s full, you
can get away with a smaller tank.

Also, check/adjust the water level in the new tank to maximise (watching the
overflow level is not achieved).

robgraham wrote:
I'll start off by saying please DO NOT reply saying rip it all out and fit a combi, because that just isn't going to happen.

This is not an emergency yet but by fortunate chance I've just spotted that the steel water tank I currently have has a very low frequency drip from a corrosion point. Bucket is now in place - not that that will help much if it goes through in a oner mind you !

There are height and possible weight constraints on where I can fit the tank. My problem is that the current tank is 35 gallons and so far all the loft tanks I can find are either 25 or 50 gallons. A 25 gallon tank will go in fairly easily - 50 gallon one will add 150lb to the structure and be significantly more of a pain to fit.

Baths are popular in our house so do I have to go for the 50 size and shoe-horn it in ?

Thanks
Rob





I have 3 x 50 gallon tanks. The guy who built the house originally over
engineered a bit. However, when the water disappeared a few weeks ago,
we didn't even notice that there was no mains supply for 16hrs. The loft
has joists to spread the load of the tanks.

In message , Capitol
writes
robgraham wrote:
I'll start off by saying please DO NOT reply saying rip it all out
and fit a combi, because that just isn't going to happen.

This is not an emergency yet but by fortunate chance I've just
spotted that the steel water tank I currently have has a very low
frequency drip from a corrosion point. Bucket is now in place - not
that that will help much if it goes through in a oner mind you !

There are height and possible weight constraints on where I can fit
the tank. My problem is that the current tank is 35 gallons and so
far all the loft tanks I can find are either 25 or 50 gallons. A 25
gallon tank will go in fairly easily - 50 gallon one will add 150lb to
the structure and be significantly more of a pain to fit.

Baths are popular in our house so do I have to go for the 50 size and
shoe-horn it in ?

I have 3 x 50 gallon tanks. The guy who built the house
originally over engineered a bit. However, when the water disappeared a
few weeks ago, we didn't even notice that there was no mains supply for
16hrs. The loft has joists to spread the load of the tanks.

We have three 3 tanks, about 1000L in nominal volume I calculated.

Load isn't taken on the ceiling at all (which is good in this old
victorian house). There are timber beams running from a chimney breast
across to the outside wall of the house and they rest on that
--
Chris French

I'll start off by saying please DO NOT reply saying rip it all out and fit a
combi, because that just isn't going to happen.

This is not an emergency yet but by fortunate chance I've just spotted that
the steel water tank I currently have has a very low frequency drip from a
corrosion point. Bucket is now in place - not that that will help much if
it goes through in a oner mind you !

There are height and possible weight constraints on where I can fit the
tank. My problem is that the current tank is 35 gallons and so far all the
loft tanks I can find are either 25 or 50 gallons. A 25 gallon tank will
go in fairly easily - 50 gallon one will add 150lb to the structure and be
significantly more of a pain to fit.

Baths are popular in our house so do I have to go for the 50 size and
shoe-horn it in ?



Definitely go with the new tank, combi systems are the work of the devil!

Id go with the 50 gallon job but set it to only fill to your required 35
gallons. 2 x 25 could be linked if that makes space easier.

Mike