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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Removing broken fencepost
Hi all,
In the high winds we had recently, a wooden post in the middle of a fence I have got snapped off at ground level. Not a clean break, either. Post doesn't appear to be rotten so it must have been a hell of a gust, but we do get 'em round here, I'm afraid. This was a 4"x4" post and the fence is about 5' high. There's not enough above ground to get a grip on, unfortunately. Is there an easier alternative to digging the remaining bit out? cheers, cd. |
#2
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Removing broken fencepost
In message , Cursitor Doom
writes Hi all, In the high winds we had recently, a wooden post in the middle of a fence I have got snapped off at ground level. Not a clean break, either. Post doesn't appear to be rotten so it must have been a hell of a gust, but we do get 'em round here, I'm afraid. This was a 4"x4" post and the fence is about 5' high. There's not enough above ground to get a grip on, unfortunately. Is there an easier alternative to digging the remaining bit out? cheers, cd. I'd be inclined to try drilling/hacking out the centre of the stump so that you can wallop the tapered spike of a Metpost (or similar) in. You might need make life easier by shortening the spike (typically 22" long) a little. If necessary, secure it with resin. -- Ian |
#3
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Removing broken fencepost
In article , Cursitor Doom
writes Hi all, In the high winds we had recently, a wooden post in the middle of a fence I have got snapped off at ground level. Not a clean break, either. Post doesn't appear to be rotten so it must have been a hell of a gust, but we do get 'em round here, I'm afraid. This was a 4"x4" post and the fence is about 5' high. There's not enough above ground to get a grip on, unfortunately. Is there an easier alternative to digging the remaining bit out? cheers, cd. Try a long coach screw down from the top to fix some kind of metal bracket to the top and use a scaff pole to get leverage to lift it out. The new fence post and a jack may work as well. -- fred it's a ba-na-na . . . . |
#4
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Removing broken fencepost
Generally if its been concreted in, the rot will be there, just in the hole
in the concrete, and tends to percolate up and when it reaches ground level that is when it is broken. No drainage in a concrete hole so it rots surprisingly fast. Brian -- From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active "Ian Jackson" wrote in message ... In message , Cursitor Doom writes Hi all, In the high winds we had recently, a wooden post in the middle of a fence I have got snapped off at ground level. Not a clean break, either. Post doesn't appear to be rotten so it must have been a hell of a gust, but we do get 'em round here, I'm afraid. This was a 4"x4" post and the fence is about 5' high. There's not enough above ground to get a grip on, unfortunately. Is there an easier alternative to digging the remaining bit out? cheers, cd. I'd be inclined to try drilling/hacking out the centre of the stump so that you can wallop the tapered spike of a Metpost (or similar) in. You might need make life easier by shortening the spike (typically 22" long) a little. If necessary, secure it with resin. -- Ian |
#5
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Removing broken fencepost
In message , fred writes
In article , Cursitor Doom writes Hi all, In the high winds we had recently, a wooden post in the middle of a fence I have got snapped off at ground level. Not a clean break, either. Post doesn't appear to be rotten so it must have been a hell of a gust, but we do get 'em round here, I'm afraid. This was a 4"x4" post and the fence is about 5' high. There's not enough above ground to get a grip on, unfortunately. Is there an easier alternative to digging the remaining bit out? cheers, cd. Try a long coach screw down from the top to fix some kind of metal bracket to the top and use a scaff pole to get leverage to lift it out. The new fence post and a jack may work as well. Alternatively, clear enough space round the broken off stump to loop a rope with a *strangle* knot such that it tightens as you lift the lever. Unlikely to work if the post is concreted in place. -- Tim Lamb |
#6
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Removing broken fencepost
On 15/11/2014 08:51, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , fred writes In article , Cursitor Doom writes Hi all, In the high winds we had recently, a wooden post in the middle of a fence I have got snapped off at ground level. Not a clean break, either. Post doesn't appear to be rotten so it must have been a hell of a gust, but we do get 'em round here, I'm afraid. This was a 4"x4" post and the fence is about 5' high. There's not enough above ground to get a grip on, unfortunately. Is there an easier alternative to digging the remaining bit out? cheers, cd. Try a long coach screw down from the top to fix some kind of metal bracket to the top and use a scaff pole to get leverage to lift it out. The new fence post and a jack may work as well. Alternatively, clear enough space round the broken off stump to loop a rope with a *strangle* knot such that it tightens as you lift the lever. Unlikely to work if the post is concreted in place. If you can drill a hole in the centre of the stump, a wrecking bar or long cold chisel should do the rest. |
#7
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Removing broken fencepost
On 14/11/2014 22:09, Cursitor Doom wrote:
Hi all, In the high winds we had recently, a wooden post in the middle of a fence I have got snapped off at ground level. Not a clean break, either. Post doesn't appear to be rotten so it must have been a hell of a gust, but we do get 'em round here, I'm afraid. This was a 4"x4" post and the fence is about 5' high. There's not enough above ground to get a grip on, unfortunately. Is there an easier alternative to digging the remaining bit out? cheers, cd. If there is enough above ground for you to drill a hole about 1" diameter, use a pry bar with a pointed end and some bricks as a fulcrum. That's worked for me in the past. Failing that, use a repair spur http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Land...r+Spike/p69167 -- Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk |
#8
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Removing broken fencepost
On Sat, 15 Nov 2014 10:33:26 +0000, The Medway Handyman wrote:
On 14/11/2014 22:09, Cursitor Doom wrote: Hi all, In the high winds we had recently, a wooden post in the middle of a fence I have got snapped off at ground level. Not a clean break, either. Post doesn't appear to be rotten so it must have been a hell of a gust, but we do get 'em round here, I'm afraid. This was a 4"x4" post and the fence is about 5' high. There's not enough above ground to get a grip on, unfortunately. Is there an easier alternative to digging the remaining bit out? cheers, cd. If there is enough above ground for you to drill a hole about 1" diameter, use a pry bar with a pointed end and some bricks as a fulcrum. That's worked for me in the past. Failing that, use a repair spur http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Land...Post+Metalwork +Tools/sd3224/Drivein+Repair+Spike/p69167 Thanks for the tips, guys, some food for thought here. I slept on the problem and had a brainwave myself. I've got some of that 98% pure sulphuric acid they use for unblocking toilets. I could pour that into the middle of the stump bit by bit until the resulting sludge can easily be scooped out without damaging the surrounding soil or concrete base (if such exists; I haven't investigated). How about that idea? Genius or what? |
#9
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Removing broken fencepost
Cursitor Doom wrote:
Hi all, In the high winds we had recently, a wooden post in the middle of a fence I have got snapped off at ground level. Not a clean break, either. Post doesn't appear to be rotten so it must have been a hell of a gust, but we do get 'em round here, I'm afraid. This was a 4"x4" post and the fence is about 5' high. There's not enough above ground to get a grip on, unfortunately. Is there an easier alternative to digging the remaining bit out? Well if you have someone nearby with a tractor that has a hydraulic three-point hitch you can use my method. Hang a bit of chain on the three-point hitch, wrap it round the end of the post and get the tractor to do the hard work. If there's not enough post for the chain to grip then I screw a couple of 300mm coach screws into the 'stump' and pull on them. I've removed quite big (and quite rotten) posts this way. -- Chris Green · |
#10
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Removing broken fencepost
In article , Cursitor Doom
writes Thanks for the tips, guys, some food for thought here. I slept on the problem and had a brainwave myself. I've got some of that 98% pure sulphuric acid they use for unblocking toilets. I could pour that into the middle of the stump bit by bit until the resulting sludge can easily be scooped out without damaging the surrounding soil or concrete base (if such exists; I haven't investigated). How about that idea? Genius or what? In the absence of a very wide smiley, I'd suggest that it was the stupidest f'ckn idea I'd heard of in a very long time. No offence . . . . -- fred it's a ba-na-na . . . . |
#11
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Removing broken fencepost
On 14/11/2014 22:09, Cursitor Doom wrote:
Hi all, In the high winds we had recently, a wooden post in the middle of a fence I have got snapped off at ground level. Not a clean break, either. Post doesn't appear to be rotten so it must have been a hell of a gust, but we do get 'em round here, I'm afraid. This was a 4"x4" post and the fence is about 5' high. There's not enough above ground to get a grip on, unfortunately. Is there an easier alternative to digging the remaining bit out? cheers, cd. What usually works for me on agricultural fence posts hammered a foot or more into subsoil (if the post is not too rotten) is to hammer the heavy metal bar I usually use to make the original hole for the post into the side of the stump at an angle and as low down as I can conveniently make it and then lean on the bar trying to avoid breaking up what is left of the post. If the post was in really tight some side ways hammer to loosen the stump in its socket first helps. I try to avoid concreting in even gate posts these days as that makes subsequent removal much much harder. -- Roger Chapman |
#12
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Removing broken fencepost
On Sat, 15 Nov 2014 13:36:01 +0000, fred wrote:
In article , Cursitor Doom writes Thanks for the tips, guys, some food for thought here. I slept on the problem and had a brainwave myself. I've got some of that 98% pure sulphuric acid they use for unblocking toilets. I could pour that into the middle of the stump bit by bit until the resulting sludge can easily be scooped out without damaging the surrounding soil or concrete base (if such exists; I haven't investigated). How about that idea? Genius or what? In the absence of a very wide smiley, I'd suggest that it was the stupidest f'ckn idea I'd heard of in a very long time. No offence . . . . Well feel free not to give a reason for your objection. I'm a f'ckn mindreader, after all. No offence...... |
#13
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Removing broken fencepost
"Cursitor Doom" wrote in message ... Hi all, In the high winds we had recently, a wooden post in the middle of a fence I have got snapped off at ground level. Not a clean break, either. Post doesn't appear to be rotten so it must have been a hell of a gust, but we do get 'em round here, I'm afraid. This was a 4"x4" post and the fence is about 5' high. There's not enough above ground to get a grip on, unfortunately. Is there an easier alternative to digging the remaining bit out? cheers, cd. If, after utilising tractors, metres of threaded bar, various screws, car jacks, scaffold and every other 'Wile E Coyote' method (ACME dynamite - there's a thought), and it's still not out, take a spade and spend 4 minutes scraping the soil away from one side of it, then get hold of it, with your fingers, and lift it out. |
#14
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Removing broken fencepost
On 15/11/14 14:29, Phil L wrote:
"Cursitor Doom" wrote in message ... Hi all, In the high winds we had recently, a wooden post in the middle of a fence I have got snapped off at ground level. Not a clean break, either. Post doesn't appear to be rotten so it must have been a hell of a gust, but we do get 'em round here, I'm afraid. This was a 4"x4" post and the fence is about 5' high. There's not enough above ground to get a grip on, unfortunately. Is there an easier alternative to digging the remaining bit out? cheers, cd. If, after utilising tractors, metres of threaded bar, various screws, car jacks, scaffold and every other 'Wile E Coyote' method (ACME dynamite - there's a thought), and it's still not out, take a spade and spend 4 minutes scraping the soil away from one side of it, then get hold of it, with your fingers, and lift it out. +1 Its amazing how far you can dig down with just a trowel. -- Everything you read in newspapers is absolutely true, except for the rare story of which you happen to have first-hand knowledge. €“ Erwin Knoll |
#15
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Removing broken fencepost
"Cursitor Doom" wrote in message ... On Sat, 15 Nov 2014 10:33:26 +0000, The Medway Handyman wrote: On 14/11/2014 22:09, Cursitor Doom wrote: Hi all, In the high winds we had recently, a wooden post in the middle of a fence I have got snapped off at ground level. Not a clean break, either. Post doesn't appear to be rotten so it must have been a hell of a gust, but we do get 'em round here, I'm afraid. This was a 4"x4" post and the fence is about 5' high. There's not enough above ground to get a grip on, unfortunately. Is there an easier alternative to digging the remaining bit out? cheers, cd. If there is enough above ground for you to drill a hole about 1" diameter, use a pry bar with a pointed end and some bricks as a fulcrum. That's worked for me in the past. Failing that, use a repair spur http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Land...Post+Metalwork +Tools/sd3224/Drivein+Repair+Spike/p69167 Thanks for the tips, guys, some food for thought here. I slept on the problem and had a brainwave myself. I've got some of that 98% pure sulphuric acid they use for unblocking toilets. I could pour that into the middle of the stump bit by bit until the resulting sludge can easily be scooped out without damaging the surrounding soil or concrete base (if such exists; I haven't investigated). How about that idea? Genius or what? This will definately not work, but feel free to waste some acid |
#16
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Removing broken fencepost
On Sat, 15 Nov 2014 14:29:27 +0000, Phil L wrote:
"Cursitor Doom" wrote in message ... Hi all, In the high winds we had recently, a wooden post in the middle of a fence I have got snapped off at ground level. Not a clean break, either. Post doesn't appear to be rotten so it must have been a hell of a gust, but we do get 'em round here, I'm afraid. This was a 4"x4" post and the fence is about 5' high. There's not enough above ground to get a grip on, unfortunately. Is there an easier alternative to digging the remaining bit out? cheers, cd. If, after utilising tractors, metres of threaded bar, various screws, car jacks, scaffold and every other 'Wile E Coyote' method (ACME dynamite - there's a thought), and it's still not out, take a spade and spend 4 minutes scraping the soil away from one side of it, then get hold of it, with your fingers, and lift it out. Trouble with dynamite is I'd have to dig out a recess under the stump for it to work, anyway, so no effort saved. Aside from that, although the neighbours have largely got used to the frequent fires and explosions by now, that solution might be pushing my luck a bit too far. |
#17
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Removing broken fencepost
On 15/11/2014 13:36, fred wrote:
In article , Cursitor Doom writes Thanks for the tips, guys, some food for thought here. I slept on the problem and had a brainwave myself. I've got some of that 98% pure sulphuric acid they use for unblocking toilets. I could pour that into the middle of the stump bit by bit until the resulting sludge can easily be scooped out without damaging the surrounding soil or concrete base (if such exists; I haven't investigated). How about that idea? Genius or what? In the absence of a very wide smiley, I'd suggest that it was the stupidest f'ckn idea I'd heard of in a very long time. No offence . . . . +1 |
#18
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Removing broken fencepost
In article , Cursitor Doom
writes On Sat, 15 Nov 2014 13:36:01 +0000, fred wrote: In article , Cursitor Doom writes Thanks for the tips, guys, some food for thought here. I slept on the problem and had a brainwave myself. I've got some of that 98% pure sulphuric acid they use for unblocking toilets. I could pour that into the middle of the stump bit by bit until the resulting sludge can easily be scooped out without damaging the surrounding soil or concrete base (if such exists; I haven't investigated). How about that idea? Genius or what? In the absence of a very wide smiley, I'd suggest that it was the stupidest f'ckn idea I'd heard of in a very long time. No offence . . . . Well feel free not to give a reason for your objection. I'm a f'ckn mindreader, after all. No offence...... I really did think you were joking. Negs: Contaminating the workpiece with a highly corrosive substance without a guarantee of success. Likelihood of conc acid remaining in pockets even if flushed out with water resulting in danger when subsequently trying to remove the post by mechanical means. Resorting to mechanical force methods then risks splashing/spray of conc acid. Conflict of then needing to carry out work mechanical work whist wearing hand and eye protection and the risk of damage to acid proof gloves leading to serious burns. That's just from a few mins thought, prob not an exhaustive list. In summary I'd say, not a good idea. -- fred it's a ba-na-na . . . . |
#19
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Removing broken fencepost
On Sat, 15 Nov 2014 11:25:37 +0000, Cursitor Doom wrote:
On Sat, 15 Nov 2014 10:33:26 +0000, The Medway Handyman wrote: On 14/11/2014 22:09, Cursitor Doom wrote: Hi all, In the high winds we had recently, a wooden post in the middle of a fence I have got snapped off at ground level. Not a clean break, either. Post doesn't appear to be rotten so it must have been a hell of a gust, but we do get 'em round here, I'm afraid. This was a 4"x4" post and the fence is about 5' high. There's not enough above ground to get a grip on, unfortunately. Is there an easier alternative to digging the remaining bit out? cheers, cd. If there is enough above ground for you to drill a hole about 1" diameter, use a pry bar with a pointed end and some bricks as a fulcrum. That's worked for me in the past. Failing that, use a repair spur http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Land...Post+Metalwork +Tools/sd3224/Drivein+Repair+Spike/p69167 Thanks for the tips, guys, some food for thought here. I slept on the problem and had a brainwave myself. I've got some of that 98% pure sulphuric acid they use for unblocking toilets. I could pour that into the middle of the stump bit by bit until the resulting sludge can easily be scooped out without damaging the surrounding soil or concrete base (if such exists; I haven't investigated). How about that idea? Genius or what? What. As far as I am aware wood does not dissolve in acid. Certainly not over night. Also, (remembering a bit of chemistry) concentrated acid becomes very un- concentrated as soon as it starts to react with anything. It also requires something to help it work - generally some water. Concentrated acid by itself is not that reactive. Unblocking toilets almost certainly relies on the water which is already in the toilet to dilute the acid and enable the reaction - you add strong acid to a toilet full of water and get a weak acid which is highly reactive. Playing with highly concentrated acid is not recommended for amateurs, either. If you are looking for a "quick" (i.e looks at first thought like magic but actually turns out to take weeks to have any effect) you could always drill some holes down the centre, fill them with diesel then try and burn the stump out. Alternatively, see if you can hire a hungry beaver. Alternatively, just dig down one side. It doesn't take long and I've taken out many wooden posts sunk into concrete this way. Cheers Dave R -- Windows 8.1 on PCSpecialist box |
#20
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Removing broken fencepost
In message , Cursitor Doom
writes On Sat, 15 Nov 2014 14:29:27 +0000, Phil L wrote: "Cursitor Doom" wrote in message ... Hi all, In the high winds we had recently, a wooden post in the middle of a fence I have got snapped off at ground level. Not a clean break, either. Post doesn't appear to be rotten so it must have been a hell of a gust, but we do get 'em round here, I'm afraid. This was a 4"x4" post and the fence is about 5' high. There's not enough above ground to get a grip on, unfortunately. Is there an easier alternative to digging the remaining bit out? cheers, cd. If, after utilising tractors, metres of threaded bar, various screws, car jacks, scaffold and every other 'Wile E Coyote' method (ACME dynamite - there's a thought), and it's still not out, take a spade and spend 4 minutes scraping the soil away from one side of it, then get hold of it, with your fingers, and lift it out. Trouble with dynamite is I'd have to dig out a recess under the stump for it to work, anyway, so no effort saved. Aside from that, although the neighbours have largely got used to the frequent fires and explosions by now, that solution might be pushing my luck a bit too far. Not a serious suggestion but I was impressed/concerned by the effect of oxidizing agents used for glass fibre work. Seriously charred wood from minor spillages. -- Tim Lamb |
#21
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Removing broken fencepost
On 15/11/2014 18:13, Huge wrote:
On 2014-11-15, David wrote: Alternatively, just dig down one side. It doesn't take long and I've taken out many wooden posts sunk into concrete this way. I had to replace 4 posts in the garden a couple of weeks ago. I dug down one side of the concrete until I had enough space to run a tow rope round them, then dragged them out of the ground with the Disco. Better to leave the concrete where it is surely? |
#22
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Removing broken fencepost
Cursitor Doom wrote:
I slept on the problem and had a brainwave myself. I've got some of that 98% pure sulphuric acid they use for unblocking toilets. I could pour that into the middle of the stump bit by bit until the resulting sludge can easily be scooped out without damaging the surrounding soil or concrete base (if such exists; I haven't investigated). How about that idea? Genius or what? A much safer idea would be to use high explosives. Bill |
#23
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Removing broken fencepost
On 15/11/2014 22:41, Huge wrote:
On 2014-11-15, stuart noble wrote: On 15/11/2014 18:13, Huge wrote: On 2014-11-15, David wrote: Alternatively, just dig down one side. It doesn't take long and I've taken out many wooden posts sunk into concrete this way. I had to replace 4 posts in the garden a couple of weeks ago. I dug down one side of the concrete until I had enough space to run a tow rope round them, then dragged them out of the ground with the Disco. Better to leave the concrete where it is surely? Really? Why? How do I get the new post in through where the old post is? The old posts break off at ground level, leaving ~ 2ft of old post through the concrete and into the ground. I've always managed to get the old stump out. Not easy, but neither is removing (and disposing of) great lumps of concrete |
#24
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Removing broken fencepost
In article ,
Ian Jackson writes: In message , Cursitor Doom writes Hi all, In the high winds we had recently, a wooden post in the middle of a fence I have got snapped off at ground level. Not a clean break, either. Post doesn't appear to be rotten so it must have been a hell of a gust, but we do get 'em round here, I'm afraid. This was a 4"x4" post and the fence is about 5' high. There's not enough above ground to get a grip on, unfortunately. Is there an easier alternative to digging the remaining bit out? cheers, cd. I'd be inclined to try drilling/hacking out the centre of the stump so that you can wallop the tapered spike of a Metpost (or similar) in. You might need make life easier by shortening the spike (typically 22" long) +1 I've done this a number of times. You simply use the stump in the concrete as a giant rawl plug. You can get Metpost repair spurs which are specifically designed for hammering in to this (a collar which wedges between the stump sides and and the concrete hole sides), but the ones designed to hammer into the ground work too, but may need shortening. Ideally, the post should position in the socket so it doesn't quite touch the ground. That way, it won't rot. The sockets with a clamping nut will grip the post better than one where you just hammer the post into the top with a wedge fit, and you can tighten them up if the post becomes loose. BTW, if it's not really concrete but just a bag of postcrete, I rather doubt this will work as it won't be strong enough. a little. If necessary, secure it with resin. -- Andrew Gabriel [email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup] |
#25
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Removing broken fencepost
On Sat, 15 Nov 2014 17:59:22 +0000, David wrote:
As far as I am aware wood does not dissolve in acid. Certainly not over night. Also, (remembering a bit of chemistry) concentrated acid becomes very un- concentrated as soon as it starts to react with anything. It also requires something to help it work - generally some water. Concentrated acid by itself is not that reactive. Unblocking toilets almost certainly relies on the water which is already in the toilet to dilute the acid and enable the reaction - you add strong acid to a toilet full of water and get a weak acid which is highly reactive. That is the most exceptionally inaccurate/error-riddled explanation of how acids work I think I've ever seen. The rest of your post was more constructive, though! |
#26
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Removing broken fencepost
On Sat, 15 Nov 2014 18:50:37 +0000, Tim Lamb wrote:
Not a serious suggestion but I was impressed/concerned by the effect of oxidizing agents used for glass fibre work. Seriously charred wood from minor spillages. Exactly. There seems to be some "lack of awareness" here as to the capability of the oxidizing agent I suggested. I am talking about stuff like Rothenberger Toilet and Drain Unblocker which is approaching 99% pure sulphuric acid. "Concentrated" acids are typically only about 70% pure IIRC so it's very misleading. You pour "concentrated" acid onto wood and it'll probably only change colour. Pour on pure (or close to pure) acid and the results are totally different. You get instant charring, burning, smoking and spitting as the wood is destroyed. Any organic matter in fact will be attacked in this way, including human flesh. It really is like something out of an old horror movie. I'm quite astonished anyone can actually buy this stuff from places like BnQ in this day and age, but who am I to complain? |
#27
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Removing broken fencepost
On 16/11/2014 12:59, Cursitor Doom wrote:
On Sat, 15 Nov 2014 18:50:37 +0000, Tim Lamb wrote: Not a serious suggestion but I was impressed/concerned by the effect of oxidizing agents used for glass fibre work. Seriously charred wood from minor spillages. Exactly. There seems to be some "lack of awareness" here as to the capability of the oxidizing agent I suggested. I am talking about stuff like Rothenberger Toilet and Drain Unblocker which is approaching 99% pure sulphuric acid. "Concentrated" acids are typically only about 70% pure IIRC so it's very misleading. You pour "concentrated" acid onto wood and it'll probably only change colour. Pour on pure (or close to pure) acid and the results are totally different. You get instant charring, burning, smoking and spitting as the wood is destroyed. Any organic matter in fact will be attacked in this way, including human flesh. It really is like something out of an old horror movie. I'm quite astonished anyone can actually buy this stuff from places like BnQ in this day and age, but who am I to complain? You can even have it sent through the post http://www.newsshopper.co.uk/news/br...ffice/?ref=rss |
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