Bought a brand-new hitch ball to replace the dented
and cruddy old junky looking thing.

Whilst tightening it with medium force (using a short
1/2" ratchet without a cheater) I managed to strip
the nut threads (I think). The thing is now stuck in
the bumper and the nut just rotates backwards without
unthreading if I attempt to back it off.

Right now, I'm thinking that I will carve a slot
up the male thread and cleave the nut in two using
an angle grinder and cutting disk.

Better idears, please.

--Winston

Winston wrote:
Bought a brand-new hitch ball to replace the dented
and cruddy old junky looking thing.

Whilst tightening it with medium force (using a short
1/2" ratchet without a cheater) I managed to strip
the nut threads (I think). The thing is now stuck in
the bumper and the nut just rotates backwards without
unthreading if I attempt to back it off.

Right now, I'm thinking that I will carve a slot
up the male thread and cleave the nut in two using
an angle grinder and cutting disk.

Better idears, please.

--Winston


Portaband . Split the stud and nut all the way .
--
Snag
Learning keeps
you young !

On Fri, 03 Feb 2012 18:27:01 -0800, Winston
wrote:

Bought a brand-new hitch ball to replace the dented
and cruddy old junky looking thing.

Whilst tightening it with medium force (using a short
1/2" ratchet without a cheater) I managed to strip
the nut threads (I think). The thing is now stuck in
the bumper and the nut just rotates backwards without
unthreading if I attempt to back it off.

Right now, I'm thinking that I will carve a slot
up the male thread and cleave the nut in two using
an angle grinder and cutting disk.

Better idears, please.

That's probably the best. I don't care if I cut into the screw. Just
replace that ball hitch. Were it mine, I'd reconsider brands now,
too.

Cut, hammer a proper sized chisel in the slot to open the nut, then
toss the two parts. (3 with locknut)

--
Energy and persistence alter all things.
--Benjamin Franklin

"Winston" wrote in message
...
Bought a brand-new hitch ball to replace the dented
and cruddy old junky looking thing.

Whilst tightening it with medium force (using a short
1/2" ratchet without a cheater) I managed to strip
the nut threads (I think). The thing is now stuck in
the bumper and the nut just rotates backwards without
unthreading if I attempt to back it off.

Right now, I'm thinking that I will carve a slot
up the male thread and cleave the nut in two using
an angle grinder and cutting disk.

Better idears, please.

--Winston

Maybe if you could wedge the nut away from the ball the threads would bite?

jsw

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
...

Maybe if you could wedge the nut away from the ball the threads would
bite?
jsw

Secure the ball from rotating with Vise-Grips, jack up on the screw and turn
the nut.

On Feb 3, 8:27*pm, Winston wrote:
Bought a brand-new hitch ball to replace the dented
and cruddy old junky looking thing.

Whilst tightening it with medium force (using a short
1/2" ratchet without a cheater) I managed to strip
the nut threads (I think). *The thing is now stuck in
the bumper and the nut just rotates backwards without
unthreading if I attempt to back it off.

Right now, I'm thinking that I will carve a slot
up the male thread and cleave the nut in two using
an angle grinder and cutting disk.

Better idears, please.

--Winston

Wow...damn Winston you've been working out! )

Use a portaband saw...after doing your bench weights.

TMT

On Feb 3, 8:27*pm, Winston wrote:
Bought a brand-new hitch ball to replace the dented
and cruddy old junky looking thing.

Whilst tightening it with medium force (using a short
1/2" ratchet without a cheater) I managed to strip
the nut threads (I think). *The thing is now stuck in
the bumper and the nut just rotates backwards without
unthreading if I attempt to back it off.

Right now, I'm thinking that I will carve a slot
up the male thread and cleave the nut in two using
an angle grinder and cutting disk.

Better idears, please.

--Winston

What brand was the hitch ball...Harbor Freight?

TMT

On Fri, 03 Feb 2012 18:27:01 -0800, Winston
wrote:

Bought a brand-new hitch ball to replace the dented
and cruddy old junky looking thing.

Whilst tightening it with medium force (using a short
1/2" ratchet without a cheater) I managed to strip
the nut threads (I think). The thing is now stuck in
the bumper and the nut just rotates backwards without
unthreading if I attempt to back it off.

Right now, I'm thinking that I will carve a slot
up the male thread and cleave the nut in two using
an angle grinder and cutting disk.

Better idears, please.

--Winston
Cutting torch.

Winston wrote:
Bought a brand-new hitch ball to replace the dented
and cruddy old junky looking thing.

Whilst tightening it with medium force (using a short
1/2" ratchet without a cheater) I managed to strip
the nut threads (I think). The thing is now stuck in
the bumper and the nut just rotates backwards without
unthreading if I attempt to back it off.

Right now, I'm thinking that I will carve a slot
up the male thread and cleave the nut in two using
an angle grinder and cutting disk.

Better idears, please.

--Winston

Grab a chisel or a cheap screwdriver. Drive it between the bumper and
the top section of the ball to see if wedging it up some you can get a
thread to engage so you can back off the nut.

--
Steve W.

Snag wrote:
Winston wrote:
Bought a brand-new hitch ball to replace the dented
and cruddy old junky looking thing.

Whilst tightening it with medium force (using a short
1/2" ratchet without a cheater) I managed to strip
the nut threads (I think). The thing is now stuck in
the bumper and the nut just rotates backwards without
unthreading if I attempt to back it off.

Right now, I'm thinking that I will carve a slot
up the male thread and cleave the nut in two using
an angle grinder and cutting disk.

Better idears, please.

--Winston


Portaband . Split the stud and nut all the way .

Thanks, Snag.

An angle grinder I've got.
The Portaband is still on the Christmas list.

--Winston

Larry Jaques wrote:

(...)

That's probably the best. I don't care if I cut into the screw. Just
replace that ball hitch. Were it mine, I'd reconsider brands now,
too.

Yup. I figured I couldn't go wrong with O'Reilly
but I figured wrong.

Cut, hammer a proper sized chisel in the slot to open the nut, then
toss the two parts. (3 with locknut)

It's positioned up underneath a lip, so I would
burn up many, many Mototool discs. Luckily I do
have a lifetime supply of them, so I might just
do that.

--Winston

Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Jim wrote in message
...

Maybe if you could wedge the nut away from the ball the threads would
bite?
jsw

I imagine that the nut is now riding on a gravelly
bed of metal shavings. The lock washer is still fully
compressed so I don't have a gap to place a chisel.

Secure the ball from rotating with Vise-Grips, jack up on the screw and turn
the nut.

Could be. That compressed lock washer is probably
providing a lot of force axially so I figure if the
nut was going to engage and unthread, it would have
done it by now. The nut just turns and turns with
no movement along the stud axis.

--Winston

wrote:
On Fri, 03 Feb 2012 18:27:01 -0800,
wrote:

Bought a brand-new hitch ball to replace the dented
and cruddy old junky looking thing.

Whilst tightening it with medium force (using a short
1/2" ratchet without a cheater) I managed to strip
the nut threads (I think). The thing is now stuck in
the bumper and the nut just rotates backwards without
unthreading if I attempt to back it off.

Right now, I'm thinking that I will carve a slot
up the male thread and cleave the nut in two using
an angle grinder and cutting disk.

Better idears, please.

--Winston
Cutting torch.

That is reasonable.

It's real close to the gas tank though.
I bet I could notch the nut from the
inside surface and smack it off the stud
with a chisel and my little sledge.

I will ponder.

--Winston

Steve W. wrote:
Winston wrote:
Bought a brand-new hitch ball to replace the dented
and cruddy old junky looking thing.

Whilst tightening it with medium force (using a short
1/2" ratchet without a cheater) I managed to strip
the nut threads (I think). The thing is now stuck in
the bumper and the nut just rotates backwards without
unthreading if I attempt to back it off.

Right now, I'm thinking that I will carve a slot
up the male thread and cleave the nut in two using
an angle grinder and cutting disk.

Better idears, please.

--Winston

Grab a chisel or a cheap screwdriver. Drive it between the bumper and the top section of the ball to see if wedging it
up some you can get a thread to engage so you can back off the nut.

The lock washer is still fully compressed.
There isn't a gap to wedge into. I don't think I lack
for axial force.

Threads, yes. Those I don't have.

--Winston

On Fri, 03 Feb 2012 19:07:44 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Fri, 03 Feb 2012 18:27:01 -0800, Winston
wrote:

Bought a brand-new hitch ball to replace the dented
and cruddy old junky looking thing.

Whilst tightening it with medium force (using a short
1/2" ratchet without a cheater) I managed to strip
the nut threads (I think). The thing is now stuck in
the bumper and the nut just rotates backwards without
unthreading if I attempt to back it off.

Right now, I'm thinking that I will carve a slot
up the male thread and cleave the nut in two using
an angle grinder and cutting disk.

Better idears, please.

That's probably the best. I don't care if I cut into the screw. Just
replace that ball hitch. Were it mine, I'd reconsider brands now,
too.

Cut, hammer a proper sized chisel in the slot to open the nut, then
toss the two parts. (3 with locknut)

And take it back to where you bought it and get your money back.


One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
Gunner Asch

"Winston" wrote in message
...
Jim Wilkins wrote:
...
Secure the ball from rotating with Vise-Grips, jack up on the screw and
turn
the nut.

Could be. That compressed lock washer is probably
providing a lot of force axially so I figure if the
nut was going to engage and unthread, it would have
done it by now. The nut just turns and turns with
no movement along the stud axis.

--Winston

I suspect the stripped threads have released enough of the pressure. If you
can't get a jack under the screw, hook up the trailer and lift its tongue.
You may be able to tighten the hitch latch nut enough to keep the ball from
turning.

jsw

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
...

If you have access, try drilling up through the nut on both sides parallel
to the screw, with some tape on the bit to mark where to stop short of the
bumper. Drills remove metal faster than cutoff wheels and you could pound a
tapered punch into the hole to split the nut.

jsw

Drill into the lock washer, once through, whang away on the remainder of
the lockwasher with a chisel.

Would that give you enough clearance?

On 2/3/2012 22:53, Winston wrote:
Steve W. wrote:
Winston wrote:
Bought a brand-new hitch ball to replace the dented
and cruddy old junky looking thing.

Whilst tightening it with medium force (using a short
1/2" ratchet without a cheater) I managed to strip
the nut threads (I think). The thing is now stuck in
the bumper and the nut just rotates backwards without
unthreading if I attempt to back it off.

Right now, I'm thinking that I will carve a slot
up the male thread and cleave the nut in two using
an angle grinder and cutting disk.

Better idears, please.

--Winston

Grab a chisel or a cheap screwdriver. Drive it between the bumper and
the top section of the ball to see if wedging it
up some you can get a thread to engage so you can back off the nut.

The lock washer is still fully compressed.
There isn't a gap to wedge into. I don't think I lack
for axial force.

Threads, yes. Those I don't have.

--Winston

I WOULD USE THE OLD FASHIONED 7-9 INCH abrasive wheel on an angle
grinder. Should be 10 minutes and the pain will be over./

On 2012-02-04, Louis Ohland wrote:
Drill into the lock washer, once through, whang away on the remainder of
the lockwasher with a chisel.

Would that give you enough clearance?

On 2/3/2012 22:53, Winston wrote:
Steve W. wrote:
Winston wrote:
Bought a brand-new hitch ball to replace the dented
and cruddy old junky looking thing.

Whilst tightening it with medium force (using a short
1/2" ratchet without a cheater) I managed to strip
the nut threads (I think). The thing is now stuck in
the bumper and the nut just rotates backwards without
unthreading if I attempt to back it off.

Right now, I'm thinking that I will carve a slot
up the male thread and cleave the nut in two using
an angle grinder and cutting disk.

Better idears, please.

--Winston

Grab a chisel or a cheap screwdriver. Drive it between the bumper and
the top section of the ball to see if wedging it
up some you can get a thread to engage so you can back off the nut.

The lock washer is still fully compressed.
There isn't a gap to wedge into. I don't think I lack
for axial force.

Threads, yes. Those I don't have.

--Winston

On Fri, 03 Feb 2012 20:42:25 -0800, Winston
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:

(...)

That's probably the best. I don't care if I cut into the screw. Just
replace that ball hitch. Were it mine, I'd reconsider brands now,
too.

Yup. I figured I couldn't go wrong with O'Reilly
but I figured wrong.

Hell, at least half their stuff is import now, and most US workers in
mfg are illegals, so why feel safe? sick grinne


Cut, hammer a proper sized chisel in the slot to open the nut, then
toss the two parts. (3 with locknut)

It's positioned up underneath a lip, so I would
burn up many, many Mototool discs. Luckily I do
have a lifetime supply of them, so I might just
do that.

Lift the ball as you run the impact on the nut. Once you can get a
crowbar under the lip of the ball flange, it will start coming off.
Just keep constant lift on the ball and it will eat its threads all
the way off, making clearance for separation. DAMHIKT, but it was 3
decades ago.

Here's what I use:
http://tinyurl.com/7uhjmkp arbor
http://tinyurl.com/7fokwcu cutoff discs
http://tinyurl.com/83absuz grinder
http://tinyurl.com/7hw8246 grinder

or the works together for under ten bucks:
http://tinyurl.com/83absuz
Add discs for $7 and a buck for Uncle Moonbeam and your total for a
new, considerably heavier duty, cutoff system is under $20.

I've never had a HF ball go bad on me, either. YMOV.
http://tinyurl.com/7gqdyjq or http://tinyurl.com/7vzj7ag

Or go with a guaranteed-to-gall, stainless steel, U.S. made ball:
http://stainles****chballs.com/hitchballss23121125.aspx for only $45
plus shipping. g

Here's better pricing on U.S. balls: http://tinyurl.com/82px6le

P.S: Be sure to use anti-seize on the threads. And consider running
the nut up and off several times (prior to installation) to remove any
handling damage to the threads/burrs/dirt/worker parts.

--
Energy and persistence alter all things.
--Benjamin Franklin

On Fri, 03 Feb 2012 20:47:58 -0800, Winston
wrote:

Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Jim wrote in message
...

Maybe if you could wedge the nut away from the ball the threads would
bite?
jsw

I imagine that the nut is now riding on a gravelly
bed of metal shavings. The lock washer is still fully
compressed so I don't have a gap to place a chisel.

Get a bigger hammer.


Secure the ball from rotating with Vise-Grips, jack up on the screw and turn
the nut.

Could be. That compressed lock washer is probably
providing a lot of force axially so I figure if the
nut was going to engage and unthread, it would have
done it by now. The nut just turns and turns with
no movement along the stud axis.

The locknut isn't very stiff, comparatively. Use a jack under the stud
to raise it, wedge in a couple crowbars, remove the jack, and use the
impact to really spin that suckah. She'll separate.

--
Energy and persistence alter all things.
--Benjamin Franklin

On Fri, 03 Feb 2012 20:53:22 -0800, Winston
wrote:

Steve W. wrote:
Winston wrote:
Bought a brand-new hitch ball to replace the dented
and cruddy old junky looking thing.

Whilst tightening it with medium force (using a short
1/2" ratchet without a cheater) I managed to strip
the nut threads (I think). The thing is now stuck in
the bumper and the nut just rotates backwards without
unthreading if I attempt to back it off.

Right now, I'm thinking that I will carve a slot
up the male thread and cleave the nut in two using
an angle grinder and cutting disk.

Better idears, please.

--Winston

Grab a chisel or a cheap screwdriver. Drive it between the bumper and the top section of the ball to see if wedging it
up some you can get a thread to engage so you can back off the nut.

The lock washer is still fully compressed.
There isn't a gap to wedge into. I don't think I lack
for axial force.

Threads, yes. Those I don't have.

If the jack under the ball stud doesn't provide room, leave it there
and use an open end wrench on the nut. Keep the ball from turning with
a pipe wrench if needed. Jack the truck all the way off the wheels if
necessary for getting the nut/ball separation.

--
Energy and persistence alter all things.
--Benjamin Franklin

Winston wrote:

Bought a brand-new hitch ball to replace the dented
and cruddy old junky looking thing.

Whilst tightening it with medium force (using a short
1/2" ratchet without a cheater) I managed to strip
the nut threads (I think). The thing is now stuck in
the bumper and the nut just rotates backwards without
unthreading if I attempt to back it off.

Right now, I'm thinking that I will carve a slot
up the male thread and cleave the nut in two using
an angle grinder and cutting disk.

Better idears, please.


They have given you some good ideas, but I just have to say: "To make
a mess like that really takes balls!" ;-)


--
You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense.

I was trying to think of something comical to write. But, can't think of
anything.

Ah, what the hitch. Was that a PIA, or a son of a hitch? This thread has
gone no where. We should cut it off, now. How'd I get pulled into this? The
OP is having a ball, for sure.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Michael A. Terrell" wrote in message
m...

They have given you some good ideas, but I just have to say: "To make
a mess like that really takes balls!" ;-)


--
You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense.

Stormin Mormon wrote:

I was trying to think of something comical to write. But, can't think of
anything.

Ah, what the hitch. Was that a PIA, or a son of a hitch? This thread has
gone no where. We should cut it off, now. How'd I get pulled into this? The
OP is having a ball, for sure.


Keep trying. You may be funny on purpose, some day. ;-)


--
You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense.

Jim Wilkins wrote:
wrote in message
...
Jim Wilkins wrote:
...
Secure the ball from rotating with Vise-Grips, jack up on the screw and
turn
the nut.

Could be. That compressed lock washer is probably
providing a lot of force axially so I figure if the
nut was going to engage and unthread, it would have
done it by now. The nut just turns and turns with
no movement along the stud axis.

--Winston

I suspect the stripped threads have released enough of the pressure. If you
can't get a jack under the screw, hook up the trailer and lift its tongue.
You may be able to tighten the hitch latch nut enough to keep the ball from
turning.

The ball itself doesn't turn while I'm rotating the nut.

Because I'm curious what happened to the threads (and if
it was indeed the nut that failed), I think I will slice
the nut off and pop the ball out of the bumper.

--Winston

Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Jim wrote in message
...

If you have access, try drilling up through the nut on both sides parallel
to the screw, with some tape on the bit to mark where to stop short of the
bumper. Drills remove metal faster than cutoff wheels and you could pound a
tapered punch into the hole to split the nut.

Ooooo! I *like* that! Thanks Jim!

--Winston

Louis Ohland wrote:
Drill into the lock washer, once through, whang away on the remainder of the lockwasher with a chisel.

Would that give you enough clearance?

It would, but that leaves me with the ball and nut unsupported in
the bumper. I'd have to come up with something to clamp the
ball in place so I could drill or slice into the nut and/or
mounting stud. I now have adequate clearance for my Mototool
after I drill the nut axially as per Jim Wilkins' suggestion.

That'll be my plan.

--Winston

Ignoramus27096 wrote:
I WOULD USE THE OLD FASHIONED 7-9 INCH abrasive wheel on an angle
grinder. Should be 10 minutes and the pain will be over./

I agree that slicing the nut and stud off would "Git 'er done"
quickly.

I really like Jim Wilkins' idea of drilling
axial holes in the nut to weaken it then attack
it with the Mototool. That gives me a couple sections
of nut and an intact stud so I can satisfy my morbid
curiosity about why the fastener failed so miserably
under "weak old man" torque.

--Winston

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Fri, 03 Feb 2012 20:42:25 -0800,
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:

(...)

That's probably the best. I don't care if I cut into the screw. Just
replace that ball hitch. Were it mine, I'd reconsider brands now,
too.

Yup. I figured I couldn't go wrong with O'Reilly
but I figured wrong.

Hell, at least half their stuff is import now, and most US workers in
mfg are illegals, so why feel safe?sick grinne

If I'm gonna get HF quality, I want to pay HF prices.

(...)


Here's what I use:
http://tinyurl.com/7uhjmkp arbor
http://tinyurl.com/7fokwcu cutoff discs
http://tinyurl.com/83absuz grinder
http://tinyurl.com/7hw8246 grinder

or the works together for under ten bucks:
http://tinyurl.com/83absuz

Many server errors with tinyurl this morning.
I get the idear however.

Add discs for $7 and a buck for Uncle Moonbeam and your total for a
new, considerably heavier duty, cutoff system is under $20.

I've got a couple angle grinders and a brand new pack
of cutting discs, so I'm set, if I decide to go all
Medieval on it.

I've never had a HF ball go bad on me, either. YMOV.
http://tinyurl.com/7gqdyjq or http://tinyurl.com/7vzj7ag

Or go with a guaranteed-to-gall, stainless steel, U.S. made ball:
http://stainles****chballs.com/hitchballss23121125.aspx for only $45
plus shipping.g

Holey Underwear!

Here's better pricing on U.S. balls: http://tinyurl.com/82px6le

P.S: Be sure to use anti-seize on the threads. And consider running
the nut up and off several times (prior to installation) to remove any
handling damage to the threads/burrs/dirt/worker parts.

Okayfine. Thanks!

--Winston

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Fri, 03 Feb 2012 20:47:58 -0800,
wrote:

Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Jim wrote in message
...

Maybe if you could wedge the nut away from the ball the threads would
bite?
jsw

I imagine that the nut is now riding on a gravelly
bed of metal shavings. The lock washer is still fully
compressed so I don't have a gap to place a chisel.

Get a bigger hammer.

That'd damage the economically designed bumper, methinks.

Secure the ball from rotating with Vise-Grips, jack up on the screw and turn
the nut.

Could be. That compressed lock washer is probably
providing a lot of force axially so I figure if the
nut was going to engage and unthread, it would have
done it by now. The nut just turns and turns with
no movement along the stud axis.

The locknut isn't very stiff, comparatively. Use a jack under the stud
to raise it, wedge in a couple crowbars, remove the jack, and use the
impact to really spin that suckah. She'll separate.

I've become curious what failed and why, so I'll do my best
to separate the fasteners whilst leaving as much evidence
in place as possible. When I run out of patience, I'll just
slice the nut and stud off from behind and do some artful
cutting to free the remaining bits.

Thanks everybody! Your suggestions are valuable and thought-
provoking.

--Winston

Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Stormin Mormon wrote:

I was trying to think of something comical to write. But, can't think of
anything.

Ah, what the hitch. Was that a PIA, or a son of a hitch? This thread has
gone no where. We should cut it off, now. How'd I get pulled into this? The
OP is having a ball, for sure.


Keep trying. You may be funny on purpose, some day. ;-)

"And remember folks, the more you drink, the funnier I am!"

(That is all I remember from his routine.)

--Winston

Winston wrote:

Bought a brand-new hitch ball to replace the dented
and cruddy old junky looking thing.

Whilst tightening it with medium force (using a short
1/2" ratchet without a cheater) I managed to strip
the nut threads (I think). The thing is now stuck in
the bumper and the nut just rotates backwards without
unthreading if I attempt to back it off.

Right now, I'm thinking that I will carve a slot
up the male thread and cleave the nut in two using
an angle grinder and cutting disk.

Better idears, please.

--Winston

Just a thought....If there's enough room there and you could borrow a
large enough nut splitter the job would almost do itself:

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...ct_34573_34573

I've had a couple of sizes of nut splitters in my "hell box" for 30+
years and every so often one comes in handy.

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10e12 furlongs per fortnight.

On Sat, 04 Feb 2012 14:43:39 -0500, jeff_wisnia
wrote:

Winston wrote:

Bought a brand-new hitch ball to replace the dented
and cruddy old junky looking thing.

Whilst tightening it with medium force (using a short
1/2" ratchet without a cheater) I managed to strip
the nut threads (I think). The thing is now stuck in
the bumper and the nut just rotates backwards without
unthreading if I attempt to back it off.

Right now, I'm thinking that I will carve a slot
up the male thread and cleave the nut in two using
an angle grinder and cutting disk.

Better idears, please.

--Winston

Just a thought....If there's enough room there and you could borrow a
large enough nut splitter the job would almost do itself:

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...ct_34573_34573

I've had a couple of sizes of nut splitters in my "hell box" for 30+
years and every so often one comes in handy.

Jeff

Yeah, I use one, too. It was a regular maintenance tool on my '78 Ford
Fiesta, which had special anti-nut-loosening features that involved
rusting the nuts in place if you looked at them cross-eyed. It was
like ultraviolet-cure adhesive, but you could do it with your naked
eyes; faster if you have X-ray vision.

Anyway, I had to sharpen mine from time to time (even to finishing
with a hard Arkansas stone) because I used it to crack some pretty
hard nuts with it. In Winnie's case, I wondered about finding one
large enough and also about how hard that nut may be.

It sounds like it's junk, so maybe a nut splitter is the trick.

--
Ed Huntress

Winston wrote:

Jim Wilkins wrote:
wrote in message
...
Jim Wilkins wrote:
...
Secure the ball from rotating with Vise-Grips, jack up on the screw and
turn
the nut.

Could be. That compressed lock washer is probably
providing a lot of force axially so I figure if the
nut was going to engage and unthread, it would have
done it by now. The nut just turns and turns with
no movement along the stud axis.

--Winston

I suspect the stripped threads have released enough of the pressure. If you
can't get a jack under the screw, hook up the trailer and lift its tongue.
You may be able to tighten the hitch latch nut enough to keep the ball from
turning.

The ball itself doesn't turn while I'm rotating the nut.

Because I'm curious what happened to the threads (and if
it was indeed the nut that failed), I think I will slice
the nut off and pop the ball out of the bumper.


So, you're going to give your bumper an Orchiectomy?

--
You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense.

In article ,
jeff_wisnia wrote:

I've had a couple of sizes of nut splitters in my "hell box" for 30+
years and every so often one comes in handy.

Me too... luckily haven't needed one for some years now, but it's nice
to know they're there.

Erik

You know, now that I think about it, years ago I remember seeing the
local trailer rental place cutting off such a nut... they were using a
big 'porta power' like nut splitter... the biggest I've (personally)
ever seen.

Wonder if it's a common issue for those outfits, and if so, would they
cut off yours for a few bucks. Might be worth some calls.

Erik

Ed Huntress wrote:
On Sat, 04 Feb 2012 14:43:39 -0500, jeff_wisnia
wrote:

(...)

Just a thought....If there's enough room there and you could borrow a
large enough nut splitter the job would almost do itself:

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...ct_34573_34573

I've had a couple of sizes of nut splitters in my "hell box" for 30+
years and every so often one comes in handy.

I agree that would have come in handy. It would had to have been
a very large tool for a 3/4" dia. thread, as Ed says.

Yeah, I use one, too. It was a regular maintenance tool on my '78 Ford
Fiesta, which had special anti-nut-loosening features that involved
rusting the nuts in place if you looked at them cross-eyed. It was
like ultraviolet-cure adhesive, but you could do it with your naked
eyes; faster if you have X-ray vision.

Anyway, I had to sharpen mine from time to time (even to finishing
with a hard Arkansas stone) because I used it to crack some pretty
hard nuts with it. In Winnie's case, I wondered about finding one
large enough and also about how hard that nut may be.

It sounds like it's junk, so maybe a nut splitter is the trick.

I looked it over and decided that I could slice through
the middle of the nut flats with some Dremel discs.
(It took 5 discs, one shattered).

After slicing through two opposing flats and attacking the
gaps with a chisel, I managed to split the nut into two
semicircles and free the hitch ball without damaging the
bumper.

The autopsy shows the nut thread and the stud thread
look surprisingly intact. The plating on the stud
is down into the copper for the length of the nut
on both walls of the thread and the crown of the thread
is much shinier and flattened in relation to the crown
of the non-stressed part of the stud.

The minor diameter of the nut is flattened for about
100 degrees and much sharper for ~260 degrees

This is supposed to be a 3/4-16 thread.

So the major thread of the stud should be no less
than 0.75" dia. It measures 0.744". The nut is no
longer with us as such but it appears that the minor
diameter of the nut widened and began slipping over
successive crowns of the major diameter of the stud.

I measured the thread on the replacement ball and
found the major diameter of the stud to be 0.743"
instead of 0.75". The minor diameter of the nut
should measure no more than 0.6823". The new nut
measures 0.689" I.D.! So our fasteners appear to
be sloppy to the tune of about 0.007" per side!

The tightening specification is 160 ft. lbs.
I don't know how much force I was applying to the nut
but I would be very much surprised to learn it was
much over ~40 ft. lbs when the fasteners failed,
given the short lever arm of the ratchet and the
remaining muscle tone of a weak old man.

Given that the thread on the replacement ball appears
to be even sloppier than the thread of the ball from
O'Reilly Auto, I will assume that it will fail at
somewhat lower torque than did the O'Reilly part.

I conclude that Ed is right.

These parts are junk.

Thanks for your patience and advice.



--Winston

Erik wrote:
You know, now that I think about it, years ago I remember seeing the
local trailer rental place cutting off such a nut... they were using a
big 'porta power' like nut splitter... the biggest I've (personally)
ever seen.

Wonder if it's a common issue for those outfits, and if so, would they
cut off yours for a few bucks. Might be worth some calls.

Our posts passed in the night!

The old hitch ball is off through the use of Dremel
and chisel. The new hitch ball appears to be of
even lower quality than the old one was.

Now I am in 'ponder' mode.

--Winston

"Winston" wrote in message
...
Erik wrote:
You know, now that I think about it, years ago I remember seeing the
local trailer rental place cutting off such a nut... they were using a
big 'porta power' like nut splitter... the biggest I've (personally)
ever seen.

Wonder if it's a common issue for those outfits, and if so, would they
cut off yours for a few bucks. Might be worth some calls.

Our posts passed in the night!

The old hitch ball is off through the use of Dremel
and chisel. The new hitch ball appears to be of
even lower quality than the old one was.

Now I am in 'ponder' mode.



put a dollup of anti-sieze on the threads