I want to cut a rebate down a straight length of wood. So looking at it end
on, I will be left with an "L" shape. I figured that the easiest way to do
this 'free-hand' would be with a rebater bit with a bearing on it. Trouble
is, all the ones that I can find seem to be the same size, which is around
32 or 35 mm diameter, and when the diameter of the bearing is taken out of
that, the rebate becomes about 12 mm or so deep. I really wanted at least
half as much again as that. I have found a couple of rebater bits online
that are bigger than that, and the depth of the rebate is controlled by
fitting different diameter bearings. Trouble is, they are real TTP prices -
like £60 or more each.

Am I missing something here, or maybe looking at the method of doing the job
completely wrongly ? I think that I understand that if the router was upside
down in a proper router table, then I could just move the fence to get
whatever horizontal 'depth' that I wanted, but 'free-hand' with the wood
fixed and the router on the move ... ?

Arfa

"Arfa Daily" wrote in message
...
I want to cut a rebate down a straight length of wood. So looking at it end
on, I will be left with an "L" shape. I figured that the easiest way to do
this 'free-hand' would be with a rebater bit with a bearing on it. Trouble
is, all the ones that I can find seem to be the same size, which is around
32 or 35 mm diameter, and when the diameter of the bearing is taken out of
that, the rebate becomes about 12 mm or so deep. I really wanted at least
half as much again as that. I have found a couple of rebater bits online
that are bigger than that, and the depth of the rebate is controlled by
fitting different diameter bearings. Trouble is, they are real TTP prices -
like £60 or more each.

Am I missing something here, or maybe looking at the method of doing the
job completely wrongly ? I think that I understand that if the router was
upside down in a proper router table, then I could just move the fence to
get whatever horizontal 'depth' that I wanted, but 'free-hand' with the
wood fixed and the router on the move ... ?

You can't do it freehand.
You need to temporarily affix a guide to the workpiece, and run the router
along that.
You can adjust the depth as required

"Arfa Daily" wrote in message
...
I want to cut a rebate down a straight length of wood. So looking at it end
on, I will be left with an "L" shape. I figured that the easiest way to do
this 'free-hand' would be with a rebater bit with a bearing on it. Trouble
is, all the ones that I can find seem to be the same size, which is around
32 or 35 mm diameter, and when the diameter of the bearing is taken out of
that, the rebate becomes about 12 mm or so deep. I really wanted at least
half as much again as that. I have found a couple of rebater bits online
that are bigger than that, and the depth of the rebate is controlled by
fitting different diameter bearings. Trouble is, they are real TTP prices -
like £60 or more each.

Am I missing something here, or maybe looking at the method of doing the
job completely wrongly ? I think that I understand that if the router was
upside down in a proper router table, then I could just move the fence to
get whatever horizontal 'depth' that I wanted, but 'free-hand' with the
wood fixed and the router on the move ... ?

Arfa

You can do it with a router with a fence.
Or with a circular saw with a fence.
Or with an electric plane with a fence.
The latter I would say was best.
Saves having to buy special bits which only cut a particular size.

It's easiest to form this sort of thing on the edge of a much wider bit of
wood and then cut it off afterwards.
Stops the wood from deflecting under load whilst being machined.

In article ,
Arfa Daily wrote:
I want to cut a rebate down a straight length of wood. So looking at it
end on, I will be left with an "L" shape. I figured that the easiest
way to do this 'free-hand' would be with a rebater bit with a bearing
on it. Trouble is, all the ones that I can find seem to be the same
size, which is around 32 or 35 mm diameter, and when the diameter of
the bearing is taken out of that, the rebate becomes about 12 mm or so
deep. I really wanted at least half as much again as that. I have found
a couple of rebater bits online that are bigger than that, and the
depth of the rebate is controlled by fitting different diameter
bearings. Trouble is, they are real TTP prices - like £60 or more each.

Am I missing something here, or maybe looking at the method of doing the
job completely wrongly ? I think that I understand that if the router
was upside down in a proper router table, then I could just move the
fence to get whatever horizontal 'depth' that I wanted, but 'free-hand'
with the wood fixed and the router on the move ... ?

Sort of thing you could do with a circular saw?

--
*Could it be that "I do " is the longest sentence? *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Fri, 1 Aug 2014 15:18:28 +0100, "Arfa Daily" wrote:

I want to cut a rebate down a straight length of wood. So looking at it end
on, I will be left with an "L" shape.

With a couple of routers, a router table, lots of bits and a circular saw
available I'd probably choose a table saw before any of the others.

But if you supplied the dimensions of your finished item and if you already have
the raw material it would enable the advice to be something a bit better than a
total stab in the dark.

--

On 01/08/2014 17:53, The Other Mike wrote:
On Fri, 1 Aug 2014 15:18:28 +0100, "Arfa Daily" wrote:

I want to cut a rebate down a straight length of wood. So looking at it end
on, I will be left with an "L" shape.

With a couple of routers, a router table, lots of bits and a circular saw
available I'd probably choose a table saw before any of the others.


+1. Five minute job on a sawbench. Just watch the offcut doesn't fly
back and hit you in the midriff though

In message , stuart noble
writes
On 01/08/2014 17:53, The Other Mike wrote:
On Fri, 1 Aug 2014 15:18:28 +0100, "Arfa Daily"
wrote:

I want to cut a rebate down a straight length of wood. So looking at it end
on, I will be left with an "L" shape.

With a couple of routers, a router table, lots of bits and a circular saw
available I'd probably choose a table saw before any of the others.


+1. Five minute job on a sawbench. Just watch the offcut doesn't fly
back and hit you in the midriff though

You need a saw with no riving knife and a small bull nose rebate plane
to tidy up the undercutting but just how I would do it:-)

--
Tim Lamb

On 01/08/2014 15:18, Arfa Daily wrote:
I want to cut a rebate down a straight length of wood. So looking at it
end on, I will be left with an "L" shape. I figured that the easiest way
to do this 'free-hand' would be with a rebater bit with a bearing on it.
Trouble is, all the ones that I can find seem to be the same size, which
is around 32 or 35 mm diameter, and when the diameter of the bearing is
taken out of that, the rebate becomes about 12 mm or so deep. I really
wanted at least half as much again as that. I have found a couple of
rebater bits online that are bigger than that, and the depth of the
rebate is controlled by fitting different diameter bearings. Trouble is,
they are real TTP prices - like £60 or more each.

Am I missing something here, or maybe looking at the method of doing the
job completely wrongly ? I think that I understand that if the router
was upside down in a proper router table, then I could just move the
fence to get whatever horizontal 'depth' that I wanted, but 'free-hand'
with the wood fixed and the router on the move ... ?

If you fit the side fence to the router then you can use a normal fluted
cutter (with a couple of passes) to make any depth of rebate you want.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 01/08/2014 21:13, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , stuart noble
writes
On 01/08/2014 17:53, The Other Mike wrote:
On Fri, 1 Aug 2014 15:18:28 +0100, "Arfa Daily"
wrote:

I want to cut a rebate down a straight length of wood. So looking at
it end
on, I will be left with an "L" shape.

With a couple of routers, a router table, lots of bits and a circular
saw
available I'd probably choose a table saw before any of the others.


+1. Five minute job on a sawbench. Just watch the offcut doesn't fly
back and hit you in the midriff though

You need a saw with no riving knife and a small bull nose rebate plane
to tidy up the undercutting but just how I would do it:-)

No need to remove the riving knife for a non through cut unless yours
also supports the blade guard.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

"The Other Mike" wrote in message
news
On Fri, 1 Aug 2014 15:18:28 +0100, "Arfa Daily"
wrote:

I want to cut a rebate down a straight length of wood. So looking at it
end
on, I will be left with an "L" shape.

With a couple of routers, a router table, lots of bits and a circular saw
available I'd probably choose a table saw before any of the others.


Well yes, I would too. However, I have no table tools available to me at
this time, hence the reason I was asking about the router. I was of the
impression that a rebater bit with a a roller bearing on its tip, could be
used free-hand against a straight edge on a suitably clamped piece of wood.
Surely, this is no different from using a laminate edging bit for instance ?



But if you supplied the dimensions of your finished item and if you
already have
the raw material it would enable the advice to be something a bit better
than a
total stab in the dark.




The actual dimensions are not, at this point, particularly important. The
stock that I will be (probably) using is around 38 x 25. I would need a
rebate cutting along one edge to a 'y' depth of about 8 mm and an 'x' depth
of 20 mm or more - 'y' into the 25 mm dimension of the stock, and 'x' into
the 38 mm dimension. But no sweat. If the general opinion is that I can't do
it with the tools available, then I'll figure some other way to arrive at a
similar result.

Arfa

On 02/08/2014 01:20, Arfa Daily wrote:


"The Other Mike" wrote in message
news
On Fri, 1 Aug 2014 15:18:28 +0100, "Arfa Daily"
wrote:

I want to cut a rebate down a straight length of wood. So looking at
it end
on, I will be left with an "L" shape.

With a couple of routers, a router table, lots of bits and a circular saw
available I'd probably choose a table saw before any of the others.


Well yes, I would too. However, I have no table tools available to me at
this time, hence the reason I was asking about the router. I was of the
impression that a rebater bit with a a roller bearing on its tip, could
be used free-hand against a straight edge on a suitably clamped piece of
wood. Surely, this is no different from using a laminate edging bit for
instance ?



But if you supplied the dimensions of your finished item and if you
already have
the raw material it would enable the advice to be something a bit
better than a
total stab in the dark.




The actual dimensions are not, at this point, particularly important.
The stock that I will be (probably) using is around 38 x 25. I would
need a rebate cutting along one edge to a 'y' depth of about 8 mm and an
'x' depth of 20 mm or more - 'y' into the 25 mm dimension of the stock,
and 'x' into the 38 mm dimension. But no sweat. If the general opinion
is that I can't do it with the tools available, then I'll figure some
other way to arrive at a similar result.

Arfa
Done it on some 75x50 CLS with a hand held circular saw and fence (stock
held in a 'workmate'). The main piece used as a window frame and the
offcut as a bead to hold the glass in (using silicone to bed the glass
in). Still there after 10+ years

Malcolm

"John Rumm" wrote in message
...
On 01/08/2014 15:18, Arfa Daily wrote:
I want to cut a rebate down a straight length of wood. So looking at it
end on, I will be left with an "L" shape. I figured that the easiest way
to do this 'free-hand' would be with a rebater bit with a bearing on it.
Trouble is, all the ones that I can find seem to be the same size, which
is around 32 or 35 mm diameter, and when the diameter of the bearing is
taken out of that, the rebate becomes about 12 mm or so deep. I really
wanted at least half as much again as that. I have found a couple of
rebater bits online that are bigger than that, and the depth of the
rebate is controlled by fitting different diameter bearings. Trouble is,
they are real TTP prices - like £60 or more each.

Am I missing something here, or maybe looking at the method of doing the
job completely wrongly ? I think that I understand that if the router
was upside down in a proper router table, then I could just move the
fence to get whatever horizontal 'depth' that I wanted, but 'free-hand'
with the wood fixed and the router on the move ... ?

If you fit the side fence to the router then you can use a normal fluted
cutter (with a couple of passes) to make any depth of rebate you want.


--
Cheers,

John.


If I get time, I'll do some tests tomorrow. Maybe it's time to build the
router into a table ...

Arfa

On 02/08/14 01:20, Arfa Daily wrote:


"The Other Mike" wrote in message
news
On Fri, 1 Aug 2014 15:18:28 +0100, "Arfa Daily"
wrote:

I want to cut a rebate down a straight length of wood. So looking at
it end
on, I will be left with an "L" shape.

With a couple of routers, a router table, lots of bits and a circular saw
available I'd probably choose a table saw before any of the others.


Well yes, I would too. However, I have no table tools available to me at
this time, hence the reason I was asking about the router. I was of the
impression that a rebater bit with a a roller bearing on its tip, could
be used free-hand against a straight edge on a suitably clamped piece of
wood. Surely, this is no different from using a laminate edging bit for
instance ?



But if you supplied the dimensions of your finished item and if you
already have
the raw material it would enable the advice to be something a bit
better than a
total stab in the dark.




The actual dimensions are not, at this point, particularly important.
The stock that I will be (probably) using is around 38 x 25. I would
need a rebate cutting along one edge to a 'y' depth of about 8 mm and an
'x' depth of 20 mm or more - 'y' into the 25 mm dimension of the stock,
and 'x' into the 38 mm dimension. But no sweat. If the general opinion
is that I can't do it with the tools available, then I'll figure some
other way to arrive at a similar result.

Of course a router will do it.

The only problem is how to clamp the work-piece and a suitable guide.

You want a lot of extra wood to clamp the work-piece against (to support
the router base itself), and then clamp a guide to *that* so you can run
the router down that guide and get the result you want.

Assuming you don't have a router table with a fence.

Do you even have a workmate?



Arfa


--
Everything you read in newspapers is absolutely true, except for the
rare story of which you happen to have first-hand knowledge. €“ Erwin Knoll

On 02/08/14 02:08, Arfa Daily wrote:


"John Rumm" wrote in message
...
On 01/08/2014 15:18, Arfa Daily wrote:
I want to cut a rebate down a straight length of wood. So looking at it
end on, I will be left with an "L" shape. I figured that the easiest way
to do this 'free-hand' would be with a rebater bit with a bearing on it.
Trouble is, all the ones that I can find seem to be the same size, which
is around 32 or 35 mm diameter, and when the diameter of the bearing is
taken out of that, the rebate becomes about 12 mm or so deep. I really
wanted at least half as much again as that. I have found a couple of
rebater bits online that are bigger than that, and the depth of the
rebate is controlled by fitting different diameter bearings. Trouble is,
they are real TTP prices - like £60 or more each.

Am I missing something here, or maybe looking at the method of doing the
job completely wrongly ? I think that I understand that if the router
was upside down in a proper router table, then I could just move the
fence to get whatever horizontal 'depth' that I wanted, but 'free-hand'
with the wood fixed and the router on the move ... ?

If you fit the side fence to the router then you can use a normal
fluted cutter (with a couple of passes) to make any depth of rebate
you want.


--
Cheers,

John.


If I get time, I'll do some tests tomorrow. Maybe it's time to build the
router into a table ...

I bought a table and a bit for just one job...


Arfa


--
Everything you read in newspapers is absolutely true, except for the
rare story of which you happen to have first-hand knowledge. €“ Erwin Knoll

On 02/08/2014 01:20, Arfa Daily wrote:


"The Other Mike" wrote in message
news
On Fri, 1 Aug 2014 15:18:28 +0100, "Arfa Daily"
wrote:

I want to cut a rebate down a straight length of wood. So looking at
it end
on, I will be left with an "L" shape.

With a couple of routers, a router table, lots of bits and a circular saw
available I'd probably choose a table saw before any of the others.


Well yes, I would too. However, I have no table tools available to me at
this time, hence the reason I was asking about the router. I was of the
impression that a rebater bit with a a roller bearing on its tip, could
be used free-hand against a straight edge on a suitably clamped piece of
wood. Surely, this is no different from using a laminate edging bit for
instance ?

You have a worktop to support the router.
With this you won't have anything to support it.

If its a smallish job you could fix it to a plank, add a supporting
piece both sides of it, pin a guide strip along one of the supports (to
match the base size) and then route freehand up to the guide strip.

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
On 02/08/14 01:20, Arfa Daily wrote:


"The Other Mike" wrote in message
news
On Fri, 1 Aug 2014 15:18:28 +0100, "Arfa Daily"
wrote:

I want to cut a rebate down a straight length of wood. So looking at
it end
on, I will be left with an "L" shape.

With a couple of routers, a router table, lots of bits and a circular
saw
available I'd probably choose a table saw before any of the others.


Well yes, I would too. However, I have no table tools available to me at
this time, hence the reason I was asking about the router. I was of the
impression that a rebater bit with a a roller bearing on its tip, could
be used free-hand against a straight edge on a suitably clamped piece of
wood. Surely, this is no different from using a laminate edging bit for
instance ?



But if you supplied the dimensions of your finished item and if you
already have
the raw material it would enable the advice to be something a bit
better than a
total stab in the dark.




The actual dimensions are not, at this point, particularly important.
The stock that I will be (probably) using is around 38 x 25. I would
need a rebate cutting along one edge to a 'y' depth of about 8 mm and an
'x' depth of 20 mm or more - 'y' into the 25 mm dimension of the stock,
and 'x' into the 38 mm dimension. But no sweat. If the general opinion
is that I can't do it with the tools available, then I'll figure some
other way to arrive at a similar result.

Of course a router will do it.

As thought I ...

The only problem is how to clamp the work-piece and a suitable guide.

You want a lot of extra wood to clamp the work-piece against (to support
the router base itself), and then clamp a guide to *that* so you can run
the router down that guide and get the result you want.

That was the sort of thing I was thinking if I could not get an actual
rebater bit with a guide roller that would cut wider than 12 mm or so


Assuming you don't have a router table with a fence.

As I said, I have no table tools at this time


Do you even have a workmate?


Er, yes ....

Arfa



Arfa


--
Everything you read in newspapers is absolutely true, except for the rare
story of which you happen to have first-hand knowledge. €“ Erwin Knoll

"Dennis@home" wrote in message
eb.com...
On 02/08/2014 01:20, Arfa Daily wrote:


"The Other Mike" wrote in message
news
On Fri, 1 Aug 2014 15:18:28 +0100, "Arfa Daily"
wrote:

I want to cut a rebate down a straight length of wood. So looking at
it end
on, I will be left with an "L" shape.

With a couple of routers, a router table, lots of bits and a circular
saw
available I'd probably choose a table saw before any of the others.


Well yes, I would too. However, I have no table tools available to me at
this time, hence the reason I was asking about the router. I was of the
impression that a rebater bit with a a roller bearing on its tip, could
be used free-hand against a straight edge on a suitably clamped piece of
wood. Surely, this is no different from using a laminate edging bit for
instance ?

You have a worktop to support the router.
With this you won't have anything to support it.

If its a smallish job you could fix it to a plank, add a supporting piece
both sides of it, pin a guide strip along one of the supports (to match
the base size) and then route freehand up to the guide strip.


Yes. Thank you for the suggestion.

Arfa

On 02/08/2014 03:27, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 02/08/14 01:20, Arfa Daily wrote:


"The Other Mike" wrote in message
news
On Fri, 1 Aug 2014 15:18:28 +0100, "Arfa Daily"
wrote:

I want to cut a rebate down a straight length of wood. So looking at
it end
on, I will be left with an "L" shape.

With a couple of routers, a router table, lots of bits and a circular
saw
available I'd probably choose a table saw before any of the others.


Well yes, I would too. However, I have no table tools available to me at
this time, hence the reason I was asking about the router. I was of the
impression that a rebater bit with a a roller bearing on its tip, could
be used free-hand against a straight edge on a suitably clamped piece of
wood. Surely, this is no different from using a laminate edging bit for
instance ?



But if you supplied the dimensions of your finished item and if you
already have
the raw material it would enable the advice to be something a bit
better than a
total stab in the dark.




The actual dimensions are not, at this point, particularly important.
The stock that I will be (probably) using is around 38 x 25. I would
need a rebate cutting along one edge to a 'y' depth of about 8 mm and an
'x' depth of 20 mm or more - 'y' into the 25 mm dimension of the stock,
and 'x' into the 38 mm dimension. But no sweat. If the general opinion
is that I can't do it with the tools available, then I'll figure some
other way to arrive at a similar result.

Of course a router will do it.

The only problem is how to clamp the work-piece and a suitable guide.

You want a lot of extra wood to clamp the work-piece against (to support
the router base itself), and then clamp a guide to *that* so you can run
the router down that guide and get the result you want.

Assuming you don't have a router table with a fence.

Do you even have a workmate?

You guys do seem to be complicating this...

slap the side fence on the router (and a screw a scrap of wood to it if
you want a longer guide). Stick a 1/2" twin flute straight cutter in it.
Put the wood on any flat surface (the ground will do). Set the plunge of
the cutter to take the full depth of the cut, and 5mm of width. Take a
pass, reset the fence for another 5mm. Repeat until width of rebate
achieved.

For example, making the internal rebate on a door frame for the planking
to sit in:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...utsideFace.png

Now this is not the ideal setup (you would normally have the cutter on
the same side as the fence and use the fence to limit the depth reach of
the cut - but on this occasion the other side of the timber had things
in the way that the fence would have hit)

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...ateInFrame.jpg

Now if working with smaller timbers, bunch a few together to make a
wider more stable platform to run the router along.



--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 02/08/14 13:40, Arfa Daily wrote:

Assuming you don't have a router table with a fence.

As I said, I have no table tools at this time


Do you even have a workmate?


Er, yes ....

OK, then this is how you do it

Clamp the workpiece in that and clamp a guide to the table.

Or if you have a scrap piece of say kitchen worktop, clamp all to that.


Or simply make a crude router table.



--
Everything you read in newspapers is absolutely true, except for the
rare story of which you happen to have first-hand knowledge. €“ Erwin Knoll

On 02/08/14 14:43, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 02/08/14 13:40, Arfa Daily wrote:

Assuming you don't have a router table with a fence.

As I said, I have no table tools at this time


Do you even have a workmate?


Er, yes ....

OK, then this is how you do it

Clamp the workpiece in that and clamp a guide to the table.

Or if you have a scrap piece of say kitchen worktop, clamp all to that.


Or simply make a crude router table.



Or buy one

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Charnwood-W0...dp/B005FLKMRK/

for example.


--
Everything you read in newspapers is absolutely true, except for the
rare story of which you happen to have first-hand knowledge. €“ Erwin Knoll

You guys do seem to be complicating this...

slap the side fence on the router (and a screw a scrap of wood to it if
you want a longer guide). Stick a 1/2" twin flute straight cutter in it.
Put the wood on any flat surface (the ground will do). Set the plunge of
the cutter to take the full depth of the cut, and 5mm of width. Take a
pass, reset the fence for another 5mm. Repeat until width of rebate
achieved.

For example, making the internal rebate on a door frame for the planking
to sit in:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...utsideFace.png

Now this is not the ideal setup (you would normally have the cutter on the
same side as the fence and use the fence to limit the depth reach of the
cut - but on this occasion the other side of the timber had things in the
way that the fence would have hit)

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...ateInFrame.jpg

Now if working with smaller timbers, bunch a few together to make a wider
more stable platform to run the router along.



--
Cheers,

John.


Ah. Thank you John. That was the sort of input I was hoping for. I knew
someone would come through for me in the end ...

And now I come to look at how you're proposing to do it, obvious really !
:-)

Arfa

On Sat, 02 Aug 2014 14:21:24 +0100, John Rumm
wrote:
Now if working with smaller timbers, bunch a few together to make a
wider more stable platform to run the router along.

That was my concern hence preferring the table saw. Freehand working or even
with a guide on something too thin or narrow to hold, already of the finished
length, or where you need to preserve the bottom face can make things a lot more
complicated. With a router mat holding relatively small section material is
eased but still not 100% issue free ( a big router making things far worse
IMHO). On a shiny kitchen / workshop worktop I can see four letter words flying
and maybe bits of wood.

--