After much trepidation I have decided to attempt a d-i-y effort to lay
300x300 ceramic floor tiles in a new ground floor entrance lobby and
shower room. The existing surface is screed over a wet piped heating
system.

The first move has been to acquire a cheap tile cutter which arrived
this morning. (Erbauer ERB337TCB) Apart from the weak and inaccurate
guide the only criticism seems to be the width of the supplied blade;
leading to lots of grinding paste. Has anyone tried a different disc?

I intend to lay using a diamond pattern; lots of cutting! Presumably I
need to work from the junction of a centre line drawn down the middle of
each area.

Any gotchas to avoid?

Tile cement recommendations?

Best cement spreader?

Grout? I hope to find a buff/orange/grey tile so grey grout?

What %age allowance in tile purchase quantity?

The adjoining floors will be engineered Oak as discussed earlier. A
d-i-y threshold strip as suggested may avoid tricky cutting.

regards
--
Tim Lamb

Tim Lamb wrote:

After much trepidation I have decided to attempt a d-i-y effort to lay
300x300 ceramic floor tiles in a new ground floor entrance lobby and
shower room. The existing surface is screed over a wet piped heating
system.

The first move has been to acquire a cheap tile cutter which arrived
this morning. (Erbauer ERB337TCB) Apart from the weak and inaccurate
guide the only criticism seems to be the width of the supplied blade;
leading to lots of grinding paste. Has anyone tried a different disc?

I intend to lay using a diamond pattern; lots of cutting! Presumably I
need to work from the junction of a centre line drawn down the middle of
each area.

Any gotchas to avoid?

Tile cement recommendations?

I used Mapei Keraquick - but you may or may not find it too fast set
(workable for about 1/2 hour-3/4 and walkable on in a few hours) Mapei do
others.


Best cement spreader?

Anything metal with the correct notch size, which depends on your desired
bed thickness.

Grout? I hope to find a buff/orange/grey tile so grey grout?

Mapei do lots of coloured grouts.

What %age allowance in tile purchase quantity?

For a small area and big tiles, I would sketch it out, count them and add a
few extra for buggeration. That is worth the effort anyway as you'll soon
see if you have an awkward bit with 1cm slivers of tile - often moving stuff
slightly can really optimise things.

The adjoining floors will be engineered Oak as discussed earlier. A
d-i-y threshold strip as suggested may avoid tricky cutting.

Solid oak threshold, screwed down with stainless or brass screws, seal the
oak with multiple coats all over before fitting as it will get wet. Silicone
along edge adjoining tiles - use a coloured silicone similar to tile grout.

'twas what I did and it worked well



regards
--
Tim Watts

Tim Lamb wrote:
After much trepidation I have decided to attempt a d-i-y effort to lay
300x300 ceramic floor tiles in a new ground floor entrance lobby and
shower room. The existing surface is screed over a wet piped heating
system.

The first move has been to acquire a cheap tile cutter which arrived
this morning. (Erbauer ERB337TCB) Apart from the weak and inaccurate
guide the only criticism seems to be the width of the supplied blade;
leading to lots of grinding paste. Has anyone tried a different disc?

I intend to lay using a diamond pattern; lots of cutting! Presumably I
need to work from the junction of a centre line drawn down the middle of
each area.

Any gotchas to avoid?


- assuming that the floor is level. Don't. lLay strings with a spirit
level and lay a course to those. Also don't be afraid with rapid set
cement of having a very variable cement bed. Its expensive to use a lot
yes, but it is only done once.

- assuming that dried cement will be easy to remove from the tiles. It
isn't, wash each tile course with wet sponge and bucket of water as you
go, then again after its laid. When set, take off the dust with brick
acid and more wet sponges and clean water. Same goes for post grouting.


- assuming that dot and dab will hold a floor tile securely for all
time. It wont. use a full bed and tamp the tile down until the cement
squidges up into the grout lines. Remove that with a bit of something
suitably shaped, and reuse on the next one.

- watch out for screed sucking the water out of the cement. I am no fan
of PVA under tiles. I sloshed water in the area I was about to tile instead.

- watch out for cement on the hands, Buggers them. But its only the one
jib innit?


Tile cement recommendations?


Rapid set over screed. Cant remember the brand I used,. It was about
half the cost of the tiles/slates.

Oh. I remembered

http://www.tilefixdirect.com/index.p...w&ref=AXX7R22K

Sodding brilliant. And the 2 hours set is correct. The mix is unusable
after about 45 minutes, and walkable on gently after 2 hours.



Best cement spreader?

anything. I used a pointing trowel and float. Because you are tamping
down properly with no voids, it doesn't matter about making a wavy surface.


Grout? I hope to find a buff/orange/grey tile so grey grout?


I would say so though where I have buff tiles I have used a yellowish
BAL grout.


http://www.londontile.co.uk/category...****fAodj2S2Yw

I think probably 'classic vanilla' but there is a wide selection to
choose from..in the Ardex range anyway.. really Ardex is siomply the
best to use period.


What %age allowance in tile purchase quantity?

5% over, maybe 10-15% for odd shapes in smaller rooms. You end up
cutting up offcuts until you have half a dozen tiles worth of unusable
dross left over.

Consider a tiled skirting board as well...

The adjoining floors will be engineered Oak as discussed earlier. A
d-i-y threshold strip as suggested may avoid tricky cutting.

there ios no such thing as tricky cutting with a tile saw :-)

huge fun, buy they always make you soaking wet! Consider doing this
outside the house.


regards


--
To people who know nothing, anything is possible.
To people who know too much, it is a sad fact
that they know how little is really possible -
and how hard it is to achieve it.

On 11/06/2012 12:06, Tim Lamb wrote:
After much trepidation I have decided to attempt a d-i-y effort to lay
300x300 ceramic floor tiles in a new ground floor entrance lobby and
shower room. The existing surface is screed over a wet piped heating
system.

The first move has been to acquire a cheap tile cutter which arrived
this morning. (Erbauer ERB337TCB) Apart from the weak and inaccurate
guide the only criticism seems to be the width of the supplied blade;
leading to lots of grinding paste. Has anyone tried a different disc?

Tile cutters are good for the fiddly bits, but its hard to beat a good
score and snap machine for the ordinary straight cuts...

I intend to lay using a diamond pattern; lots of cutting! Presumably I
need to work from the junction of a centre line drawn down the middle of
each area.

Any gotchas to avoid?

Take plenty of time with the initial layout - carefully check where
tiles end up at walls etc, and eye lines of grout runs etc. Don't make
the mistake of selecting a start point that is "easy" or does not need
many cuts etc - it ends up biting you later!

Tile cement recommendations?

If its going to get wet repeatedly, then something cementious (i.e.
powdered rather than acrylic ready mixed)

Best cement spreader?

Big plastering trowel like design with notches...

Grout? I hope to find a buff/orange/grey tile so grey grout?

Bal / nicobond etc.

What %age allowance in tile purchase quantity?

10% if doing square cuts - probably higher if doing diamond - say 10%
plus a linear run of tiles equal to half the room perimeter.

The adjoining floors will be engineered Oak as discussed earlier. A
d-i-y threshold strip as suggested may avoid tricky cutting.

Sounds like a good plan.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

In message , Tim Lamb
writes
After much trepidation I have decided to attempt a d-i-y effort to lay
300x300 ceramic floor tiles in a new ground floor entrance lobby and
shower room. The existing surface is screed over a wet piped heating
system.

Right! Replies saved.

Couple of supplementals....

Floor screed sucking water. Can a *slosh* be quantified? Is this a quick
wipe with a wet brush or a jam jar full spread about?

Adhesive spreader... 6-10mm square offered. TNP is hinting at no voids
so either a 3mm or 5mm final depth? I'll put a straight edge down to
check the screed for humps and hollows.

Grouting gaps. Is there a technical way of accurately setting these?

regards

--
Tim Lamb

Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , Tim Lamb
writes
After much trepidation I have decided to attempt a d-i-y effort to lay
300x300 ceramic floor tiles in a new ground floor entrance lobby and
shower room. The existing surface is screed over a wet piped heating
system.

Right! Replies saved.

Couple of supplementals....

Floor screed sucking water. Can a *slosh* be quantified? Is this a quick
wipe with a wet brush or a jam jar full spread about?


you will know when its more or less sodden Tim, Id say more like a
gallon bucket myself.


Adhesive spreader... 6-10mm square offered. TNP is hinting at no voids
so either a 3mm or 5mm final depth? I'll put a straight edge down to
check the screed for humps and hollows.

At LEAST 5mm for floor tiles.

I've had them crack off on 3mm and I would not expect the screed to be
level to that anyway. My thinnest tile cement layer is about 4mm and it
extends to over 30mm in places.. over a 6 meter run of screeding that
took several days to lay (badly)





Grouting gaps. Is there a technical way of accurately setting these?

use the little grouting spacers. You can buy em anywhere. I set them on
edge rather than flush so I can remove them later.


regards



--
To people who know nothing, anything is possible.
To people who know too much, it is a sad fact
that they know how little is really possible -
and how hard it is to achieve it.

On Monday, June 11, 2012 3:47:40 PM UTC+1, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , Tim Lamb
writes
After much trepidation I have decided to attempt a d-i-y effort to lay
300x300 ceramic floor tiles in a new ground floor entrance lobby and
shower room. The existing surface is screed over a wet piped heating
system.

Right! Replies saved.

Couple of supplementals....

Floor screed sucking water. Can a *slosh* be quantified? Is this a quick
wipe with a wet brush or a jam jar full spread about?

I had to get in a tiler due to a bad back. He wanted the screed floor sealed / primed with 4:1 water:SBR. I was going to do that anyway.


Adhesive spreader... 6-10mm square offered. TNP is hinting at no voids
so either a 3mm or 5mm final depth? I'll put a straight edge down to
check the screed for humps and hollows.

Google "large format trowel".

Take out any very high spots with a angle grinder.
Find the highest part of the floor and ensure space for at least 3mm bed at this point.

From watching my tiler doing 600 x 400mm tiles (very well calibrated slate),
1. Create the grooved bed (he did not "back butter" the tiles)
2. Drop down the tile loosely, get roughly level but don't bed the tile
3. Lift the tile and look for areas with less adhesive due to slight hollows etc.
4. Add extra adhesive under areas noted in (3).
5. Slap down tile again, then bed.
6. The bed ended up about 4 or 5mm.
7. He did a good job.


Grouting gaps. Is there a technical way of accurately setting these?


Get the standard tile spacers available in sizes from 1mm to 7mm (I used 7mm for slate), but use them vertically and pull them out before they are stuck in place.

The 3 tiles I had layed before my back gave way cannot be spotted ;-)

Simon.

On Mon, 11 Jun 2012 15:47:40 +0100, Tim Lamb wrote:

Grouting gaps. Is there a technical way of accurately setting these?

Little plastic spacers in the shape of an even cross. You, in theory,
put one at each corner of a tile and leave them in grouting over but
that makes it difficult to do the gradual easing of grout line widths
that the real world demands. Just stick one of the legs between tiles
near each corner, thus two per side and remove 'em one the adhesive
has mostly set and the tiles aren't going to move easily. Also means
you can reuse 'em.

As for wasteage and layout this is where a good scale drawing comes
in handy, don't forget the width of the grout line... The layout
needs to be done so the far edge/sides it look right, when viewed
from the open front door (IIRC you said this was an entrance), taking
into account how the tiles fit across the door opening. I think I'd
start playing with the tile diagonal laid on the door way openings
center line. That line running parallel to the wall that has the
biggest visible tile/wall join. So that the tiles along that section
are all even in cut size. Bits of 300mm sq cardboard and playing in
situ might be useful, or scale bits on a scale drawing.

--
Cheers
Dave.

sm_jamieson wrote:
On Monday, June 11, 2012 3:47:40 PM UTC+1, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , Tim Lamb
writes
After much trepidation I have decided to attempt a d-i-y effort to lay
300x300 ceramic floor tiles in a new ground floor entrance lobby and
shower room. The existing surface is screed over a wet piped heating
system.
Right! Replies saved.

Couple of supplementals....

Floor screed sucking water. Can a *slosh* be quantified? Is this a quick
wipe with a wet brush or a jam jar full spread about?

I had to get in a tiler due to a bad back. He wanted the screed floor sealed / primed with 4:1 water:SBR. I was going to do that anyway.

Adhesive spreader... 6-10mm square offered. TNP is hinting at no voids
so either a 3mm or 5mm final depth? I'll put a straight edge down to
check the screed for humps and hollows.

Google "large format trowel".

Take out any very high spots with a angle grinder.
Find the highest part of the floor and ensure space for at least 3mm bed at this point.

From watching my tiler doing 600 x 400mm tiles (very well calibrated slate),
1. Create the grooved bed (he did not "back butter" the tiles)
2. Drop down the tile loosely, get roughly level but don't bed the tile
3. Lift the tile and look for areas with less adhesive due to slight hollows etc.
4. Add extra adhesive under areas noted in (3).
5. Slap down tile again, then bed.
6. The bed ended up about 4 or 5mm.
7. He did a good job.

Grouting gaps. Is there a technical way of accurately setting these?


Get the standard tile spacers available in sizes from 1mm to 7mm (I used 7mm for slate), but use them vertically and pull them out before they are stuck in place.

The 3 tiles I had layed before my back gave way cannot be spotted ;-)

Simon.

+1 on all this.



--
To people who know nothing, anything is possible.
To people who know too much, it is a sad fact
that they know how little is really possible -
and how hard it is to achieve it.

In message o.uk, Dave
Liquorice writes
On Mon, 11 Jun 2012 15:47:40 +0100, Tim Lamb wrote:

Grouting gaps. Is there a technical way of accurately setting these?

Little plastic spacers in the shape of an even cross. You, in theory,
put one at each corner of a tile and leave them in grouting over but
that makes it difficult to do the gradual easing of grout line widths
that the real world demands. Just stick one of the legs between tiles
near each corner, thus two per side and remove 'em one the adhesive
has mostly set and the tiles aren't going to move easily. Also means
you can reuse 'em.

OK

As for wasteage and layout this is where a good scale drawing comes
in handy, don't forget the width of the grout line...

Good point!

The layout
needs to be done so the far edge/sides it look right, when viewed
from the open front door (IIRC you said this was an entrance), taking
into account how the tiles fit across the door opening. I think I'd
start playing with the tile diagonal laid on the door way openings
center line. That line running parallel to the wall that has the
biggest visible tile/wall join. So that the tiles along that section
are all even in cut size. Bits of 300mm sq cardboard and playing in
situ might be useful, or scale bits on a scale drawing.

Yes. This is an entrance hall with a toilet/shower room off at 90deg.

I will leave an untiled rectangle to take a thin doormat behind the
front door.

The building is not quite to design so I shall have to get some accurate
measurements. I wonder if Google sketch up has a facility for laying out
tiles:-)

regards


--
Tim Lamb

In article ,
John Rumm wrote:
Take plenty of time with the initial layout - carefully check where
tiles end up at walls etc, and eye lines of grout runs etc. Don't make
the mistake of selecting a start point that is "easy" or does not need
many cuts etc - it ends up biting you later!

A golden rule for any first time tiler. ;-)

--
*Cover me. I'm changing lanes.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 11/06/2012 18:02, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In articlebLidnUGmsKvnZUjSnZ2dnUVZ7vydnZ2d@brightvie w.co.uk,
John wrote:
Take plenty of time with the initial layout - carefully check where
tiles end up at walls etc, and eye lines of grout runs etc. Don't make
the mistake of selecting a start point that is "easy" or does not need
many cuts etc - it ends up biting you later!

A golden rule for any first time tiler. ;-)

The number of times you see it broken though is astounding....

Full tiles at one side of a room, and a 1/2" strip of them at the other
etc. Particularly important where the walls are out of true - a slight
taper on 4" of tile is far less noticeable than on a 3/4" rip that
tapers to almost nothing.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 11/06/2012 15:47, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , Tim Lamb
writes
After much trepidation I have decided to attempt a d-i-y effort to lay
300x300 ceramic floor tiles in a new ground floor entrance lobby and
shower room. The existing surface is screed over a wet piped heating
system.

Right! Replies saved.

Couple of supplementals....

Floor screed sucking water. Can a *slosh* be quantified? Is this a quick
wipe with a wet brush or a jam jar full spread about?

Adhesive spreader... 6-10mm square offered. TNP is hinting at no voids
so either a 3mm or 5mm final depth? I'll put a straight edge down to
check the screed for humps and hollows.

If the floor looks to be out, give it a coat of self levelling first.

Grouting gaps. Is there a technical way of accurately setting these?

The spacers used "poked in" rather than as they are intended usually
work best. You can go for wider gaps (5mm) on floors.

Get a nice rubber faced grout float for application.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

John Rumm wrote:

On 11/06/2012 17:17, Tim Lamb wrote:

I wonder if Google sketch up has a facility for laying out tiles:-)

It does in fact...

[Snip one way to do it]

The way I did it was to create a texture the size of one tile plus one
row and column of grout, you can then apply this texture to the floor
then right-click the floor and using Texture/Position slide it around,
the advantage is that you don't need to construct a suitably sized array
of tiles.

In message , John
Rumm writes
On 11/06/2012 17:17, Tim Lamb wrote:

The building is not quite to design so I shall have to get some accurate
measurements. I wonder if Google sketch up has a facility for laying out
tiles:-)

It does in fact...

Create your base layer (i.e. room shape) then make that a "group" (i.e.
a group of 1 thing) so that things you stick on top of it do not
interact with it.

Now create a tile. Pull it up a bit into the third dimension so you
don't see it "Zee" fight with the base layer, and lay it in your
starting position.

Now select move, tap CTRL to turn the move into a copy. Drag it to the
adjacent tile position, leaving your grout line. Once in place the type
xn where n is the number of copies you want.

So x20 would give you 20 copies of the tile spaced by the same offset
multiple[1]. That will create a row of them. You can then rubber band
select the row, and copy that a repeated number of times to do the
whole room. If you then select all the tiles and group them you can now
slide them about as a group on the floor until you get the layout you want.


[1] if 20 turns out to be wrong, you can immediately type x15 or x25
etc to adjust the number of copies. This trick is how I did things like
the rafters, tile batten, and tiles on this diagram:

Crikey! How on earth did you learn how to do that? I fiddled with
Sketch-up when it first came out and was quickly disenchanted.

My thinking had got as far as finding the centreline of each space and
then seeing how many complete *tile diagonals* + one half I could fit at
90deg. to the line.

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...:TilesRow2.jpg

Are they Arden special reserve bricks?

regards


--
Tim Lamb

Tim Lamb wrote:

John Rumm writes

Now select move, tap CTRL to turn the move into a copy. Drag it to the
adjacent tile position, leaving your grout line. Once in place the
type xn where n is the number of copies you want.

Crikey! How on earth did you learn how to do that? I fiddled with
Sketch-up when it first came out and was quickly disenchanted.

There's hundreds of tutorial videos for SketchUp, I found it amazingly
simple compared to any other CAD software I'd ever seen ... a learning
curve rather than a learning brick wall.

On 11/06/2012 23:18, Andy Burns wrote:
Tim Lamb wrote:

John Rumm writes

Now select move, tap CTRL to turn the move into a copy. Drag it to the
adjacent tile position, leaving your grout line. Once in place the
type xn where n is the number of copies you want.

Crikey! How on earth did you learn how to do that? I fiddled with
Sketch-up when it first came out and was quickly disenchanted.

There's hundreds of tutorial videos for SketchUp, I found it amazingly
simple compared to any other CAD software I'd ever seen ... a learning
curve rather than a learning brick wall.

Yup well worth seeking out the videos... Aiden Chopra has done some very
good ones.

A few keyboard modifiers are very well worth learning...

the x something trick for copies.

Typing n,n for specifying exact dimensions... say to want a square that
is 1' wide by 200mm long. Draw any old square without fussing about the
drawn size, then just type 1',200mm and hit return. (you can mix units
at will so long as you specify them when they are different from the
default you have chosen to work in).

Grouping bits as you go along helps - stops thing you draw adjacent to
something becoming part of it.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 12/06/2012 00:37, John Rumm wrote:
On 11/06/2012 23:18, Andy Burns wrote:
Tim Lamb wrote:

John Rumm writes

Now select move, tap CTRL to turn the move into a copy. Drag it to the
adjacent tile position, leaving your grout line. Once in place the
type xn where n is the number of copies you want.

Crikey! How on earth did you learn how to do that? I fiddled with
Sketch-up when it first came out and was quickly disenchanted.

There's hundreds of tutorial videos for SketchUp, I found it amazingly
simple compared to any other CAD software I'd ever seen ... a learning
curve rather than a learning brick wall.

Yup well worth seeking out the videos... Aiden Chopra has done some very
good ones.

A few keyboard modifiers are very well worth learning...

the x something trick for copies.

Typing n,n for specifying exact dimensions... say to want a square that
is 1' wide by 200mm long. Draw any old square without fussing about the
drawn size, then just type 1',200mm and hit return. (you can mix units
at will so long as you specify them when they are different from the
default you have chosen to work in).

Grouping bits as you go along helps - stops thing you draw adjacent to
something becoming part of it.


You've encouraged me to have another look at Sketchup. I gave up to soon

In message , stuart noble
writes
On 12/06/2012 00:37, John Rumm wrote:
Yup well worth seeking out the videos... Aiden Chopra has done some very
good ones.

A few keyboard modifiers are very well worth learning...

the x something trick for copies.

Typing n,n for specifying exact dimensions... say to want a square that
is 1' wide by 200mm long. Draw any old square without fussing about the
drawn size, then just type 1',200mm and hit return. (you can mix units
at will so long as you specify them when they are different from the
default you have chosen to work in).

Grouping bits as you go along helps - stops thing you draw adjacent to
something becoming part of it.


You've encouraged me to have another look at Sketchup. I gave up to soon

AOL:-)

I was never exposed to CD in a business environment so I start a long
way back from some. I guess you also need an enquiring and retentive
mind whereas I suspect I am too lazy to do the work.

Something related has recently hit agriculture in that applications
through the DEFRA site for *environmental* payments can now only be done
on line. This involves using their software for mapping and identifying
land areas. We are being dragged out of our muddy Wellington boots to
join the 21st. century:-)

regards

--
Tim Lamb

On Jun 11, 12:06*pm, Tim Lamb wrote:
After much trepidation I have decided to attempt a d-i-y effort to lay
300x300 ceramic floor tiles in a new ground floor entrance lobby and
shower room. The existing surface is screed over a wet piped heating
system.

The first move has been to acquire a cheap tile cutter which arrived
this morning. (Erbauer ERB337TCB) Apart from the weak and inaccurate
guide the only criticism seems to be the width of the supplied blade;
leading to lots of grinding paste. Has anyone tried a different disc?

I intend to lay using a diamond pattern; lots of cutting! Presumably I
need to work from the junction of a centre line drawn down the middle of
each area.

Any gotchas to avoid?

Tile cement recommendations?

Best cement spreader?

Grout? I hope to find a buff/orange/grey tile so grey grout?

What %age allowance in tile purchase quantity?

The adjoining floors will be engineered Oak as discussed earlier. A
d-i-y threshold strip as suggested may avoid tricky cutting.

regards


Tile size: the bigger the tile, the less easy it is to get a nice
level result.

Spacers: Tiles vary in their dimensional accuracy. Plastic tile
spacers dont provide for any real life variation. Bits of card from
the tile boxes work a bit better IME.

Electric tile saws: these produce a fine spray aimed straight at you.
Hardly noticeable at first, but unpleasant by the end of the day.
Simple solution is to stand to one side when using it.

Wastage: last time I bought 10% extra, when using an electric cutter.
I used up almost none of that 10%.

Batch numbers: beware of batch numbers when buying tiles. Each box has
a batch number, and sometimes one batch doesnt match another.

Appliances: don't be tempted to avoid tiling under the appliances. If
you do, you're liable to run into major kitchen trouble down the line.
Of course you can, if you want to cut costs, use the cheapest thing of
the same thickness where its not seen.

Adhesive: Next time I floor tile I'll simply use sand & cement.
Excellent in all ways but one, it takes about 3 days to build up
enough strength to walk on. If youre only doing a bit a day this works
ok. Spend the 90% adhesive saving on something else. PS tiles should
be dunked in water overnight before laying with cement.

Grout: be sure to seal it with lithofin or similar, it makes cleaning
it possible. Save some grout leftover, so 20 years later you can clean
the grout abrasively and wipe a fresh layer on to make it look new
again.

Tile cutter: when you're finished with it, if you've got no tablesaw
you can fit a wood cutting blade (slightly larger, check clearances).

Decoration: you don't have to stay with the same tile repeated all
over. One can include a centre decoration, eg in mosaic or geometric
pattern, borders etc. But only do this if the design actually looks
good, a poor uninspired design will look poor and uninspired.


NT

Adhesive: Next time I floor tile I'll simply use sand& cement.

Good luck with that....

On Jun 12, 1:41*pm, stuart noble wrote:
Adhesive: Next time I floor tile I'll simply use sand& *cement.

Good luck with that....

It works fine on the wall, so I dont see flooring being a problem


NT

On Jun 12, 11:12*am, NT wrote:
On Jun 11, 12:06*pm, Tim Lamb wrote:



After much trepidation I have decided to attempt a d-i-y effort to lay
300x300 ceramic floor tiles in a new ground floor entrance lobby and
shower room. The existing surface is screed over a wet piped heating
system.

The first move has been to acquire a cheap tile cutter which arrived
this morning. (Erbauer ERB337TCB) Apart from the weak and inaccurate
guide the only criticism seems to be the width of the supplied blade;
leading to lots of grinding paste. Has anyone tried a different disc?

I intend to lay using a diamond pattern; lots of cutting! Presumably I
need to work from the junction of a centre line drawn down the middle of
each area.

Any gotchas to avoid?

Tile cement recommendations?

Best cement spreader?

Grout? I hope to find a buff/orange/grey tile so grey grout?

What %age allowance in tile purchase quantity?

The adjoining floors will be engineered Oak as discussed earlier. A
d-i-y threshold strip as suggested may avoid tricky cutting.

regards

Tile size: the bigger the tile, the less easy it is to get a nice
level result.

Spacers: Tiles vary in their dimensional accuracy. Plastic tile
spacers dont provide for any real life variation. Bits of card from
the tile boxes work a bit better IME.

Electric tile saws: these produce a fine spray aimed straight at you.
Hardly noticeable at first, but unpleasant by the end of the day.
Simple solution is to stand to one side when using it.

Wastage: last time I bought 10% extra, when using an electric cutter.
I used up almost none of that 10%.

Batch numbers: beware of batch numbers when buying tiles. Each box has
a batch number, and sometimes one batch doesnt match another.

Appliances: don't be tempted to avoid tiling under the appliances. If
you do, you're liable to run into major kitchen trouble down the line.
Of course you can, if you want to cut costs, use the cheapest thing of
the same thickness where its not seen.

Adhesive: Next time I floor tile I'll simply use sand & cement.
Excellent in all ways but one, it takes about 3 days to build up
enough strength to walk on. If youre only doing a bit a day this works
ok. Spend the 90% adhesive saving on something else. PS tiles should
be dunked in water overnight before laying with cement.

Grout: be sure to seal it with lithofin or similar, it makes cleaning
it possible. Save some grout leftover, so 20 years later you can clean
the grout abrasively and wipe a fresh layer on to make it look new
again.

Tile cutter: when you're finished with it, if you've got no tablesaw
you can fit a wood cutting blade (slightly larger, check clearances).

Decoration: you don't have to stay with the same tile repeated all
over. *One can include a centre decoration, eg in mosaic or geometric
pattern, borders etc. But only do this if the design actually looks
good, a poor uninspired design will look poor and uninspired.

NT

ps GIMP also does the tile fill.


NT

On 12/06/2012 08:30, stuart noble wrote:
On 12/06/2012 00:37, John Rumm wrote:
On 11/06/2012 23:18, Andy Burns wrote:
Tim Lamb wrote:

John Rumm writes

Now select move, tap CTRL to turn the move into a copy. Drag it to the
adjacent tile position, leaving your grout line. Once in place the
type xn where n is the number of copies you want.

Crikey! How on earth did you learn how to do that? I fiddled with
Sketch-up when it first came out and was quickly disenchanted.

There's hundreds of tutorial videos for SketchUp, I found it amazingly
simple compared to any other CAD software I'd ever seen ... a learning
curve rather than a learning brick wall.

Yup well worth seeking out the videos... Aiden Chopra has done some very
good ones.

A few keyboard modifiers are very well worth learning...

the x something trick for copies.

Typing n,n for specifying exact dimensions... say to want a square that
is 1' wide by 200mm long. Draw any old square without fussing about the
drawn size, then just type 1',200mm and hit return. (you can mix units
at will so long as you specify them when they are different from the
default you have chosen to work in).

Grouping bits as you go along helps - stops thing you draw adjacent to
something becoming part of it.


You've encouraged me to have another look at Sketchup. I gave up to soon

Its probably the easiest drawing package out there for 3D stuff, but
even so its a bit deceptive - the initial entry is very simple and
intuitive, the advanced stuff you can probably do without and still get
useful results. However the middle ground learning is what makes all the
difference to producing really useful stuff easily, and that takes a
little bit of time to get to grips with.

There is lots of very nice user interface stuff in there that has really
been well designed, but its not always obvious until you see it used.

Even simple stuff like selecting things by drawing a rubber band round
them. Drag it from top left to bottom right and it will only select any
object that is completely within the banded outline. However do it from
bottom right to top left and it will select any object where a part of
it is in the outline. Trivial once you know, you may be a cause for
confusion if you had not spotted the difference.

Use the middle mouse button for orbiting your viewpoint, hold shift with
it to pan it.

Use space to go back to a generic pointer at any point.

P for the push / pull stretch in 3D tool.

M for move / copy

If you start moving / copying something you get an axis colour line pop
up when moving on the axis. Hold shift to lock the movement to that axis.

Hover over an edge or corner for a mo and you tell it that you are
"inferring" you want to make use of that point as a reference in a
moment. So start dragging an object toward it, and you will find prompts
you with a dotted line which you can "snap to" when you get close.



--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 12/06/2012 11:12, NT wrote:
On Jun 11, 12:06 pm, Tim wrote:
After much trepidation I have decided to attempt a d-i-y effort to lay
300x300 ceramic floor tiles in a new ground floor entrance lobby and
shower room. The existing surface is screed over a wet piped heating
system.

The first move has been to acquire a cheap tile cutter which arrived
this morning. (Erbauer ERB337TCB) Apart from the weak and inaccurate
guide the only criticism seems to be the width of the supplied blade;
leading to lots of grinding paste. Has anyone tried a different disc?

I intend to lay using a diamond pattern; lots of cutting! Presumably I
need to work from the junction of a centre line drawn down the middle of
each area.

Any gotchas to avoid?

Tile cement recommendations?

Best cement spreader?

Grout? I hope to find a buff/orange/grey tile so grey grout?

What %age allowance in tile purchase quantity?

The adjoining floors will be engineered Oak as discussed earlier. A
d-i-y threshold strip as suggested may avoid tricky cutting.

regards


Tile size: the bigger the tile, the less easy it is to get a nice
level result.

Spacers: Tiles vary in their dimensional accuracy. Plastic tile
spacers dont provide for any real life variation. Bits of card from
the tile boxes work a bit better IME.

I find the spacers very good because they *do* allow subtle variation
(or at least the ones I have). One size used inline with the grout line,
a little wider used rotated 90 degrees, a pair is a little wider still
etc. Usually allows enough to tweak out any adjustments as required.

Electric tile saws: these produce a fine spray aimed straight at you.
Hardly noticeable at first, but unpleasant by the end of the day.
Simple solution is to stand to one side when using it.

and get one that has a water collecting rim round the edge - keeps more
of it in the machine for longer.

Wastage: last time I bought 10% extra, when using an electric cutter.
I used up almost none of that 10%.

Batch numbers: beware of batch numbers when buying tiles. Each box has
a batch number, and sometimes one batch doesnt match another.

If using different batches, mix up the tiles before you use them so that
you don't get a visible transition.

Appliances: don't be tempted to avoid tiling under the appliances. If
you do, you're liable to run into major kitchen trouble down the line.
Of course you can, if you want to cut costs, use the cheapest thing of
the same thickness where its not seen.

Adhesive: Next time I floor tile I'll simply use sand& cement.
Excellent in all ways but one, it takes about 3 days to build up
enough strength to walk on. If youre only doing a bit a day this works
ok. Spend the 90% adhesive saving on something else. PS tiles should
be dunked in water overnight before laying with cement.

Grout: be sure to seal it with lithofin or similar, it makes cleaning
it possible. Save some grout leftover, so 20 years later you can clean
the grout abrasively and wipe a fresh layer on to make it look new
again.

Yup their grout protector I have found very good.

Tile cutter: when you're finished with it, if you've got no tablesaw
you can fit a wood cutting blade (slightly larger, check clearances).

Going to make a very piddly little saw, and the motors on those are
often fairly feeble.

Decoration: you don't have to stay with the same tile repeated all
over. One can include a centre decoration, eg in mosaic or geometric
pattern, borders etc. But only do this if the design actually looks
good, a poor uninspired design will look poor and uninspired.



--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Jun 12, 7:05*pm, John Rumm wrote:
On 12/06/2012 11:12, NT wrote:



On Jun 11, 12:06 pm, Tim *wrote:
After much trepidation I have decided to attempt a d-i-y effort to lay
300x300 ceramic floor tiles in a new ground floor entrance lobby and
shower room. The existing surface is screed over a wet piped heating
system.

The first move has been to acquire a cheap tile cutter which arrived
this morning. (Erbauer ERB337TCB) Apart from the weak and inaccurate
guide the only criticism seems to be the width of the supplied blade;
leading to lots of grinding paste. Has anyone tried a different disc?

I intend to lay using a diamond pattern; lots of cutting! Presumably I
need to work from the junction of a centre line drawn down the middle of
each area.

Any gotchas to avoid?

Tile cement recommendations?

Best cement spreader?

Grout? I hope to find a buff/orange/grey tile so grey grout?

What %age allowance in tile purchase quantity?

The adjoining floors will be engineered Oak as discussed earlier. A
d-i-y threshold strip as suggested may avoid tricky cutting.

regards

Tile size: the bigger the tile, the less easy it is to get a nice
level result.

Spacers: Tiles vary in their dimensional accuracy. Plastic tile
spacers dont provide for any real life variation. Bits of card from
the tile boxes work a bit better IME.

I find the spacers very good because they *do* allow subtle variation
(or at least the ones I have). One size used inline with the grout line,
a little wider used rotated 90 degrees, a pair is a little wider still
etc. Usually allows enough to tweak out any adjustments as required.

Sounds like you got better ones, mine didnt. So another thing to look
out for.

Electric tile saws: these produce a fine spray aimed straight at you.
Hardly noticeable at first, but unpleasant by the end of the day.
Simple solution is to stand to one side when using it.

and get one that has a water collecting rim round the edge - keeps more
of it in the machine for longer.

Wastage: last time I bought 10% extra, when using an electric cutter.
I used up almost none of that 10%.

Batch numbers: beware of batch numbers when buying tiles. Each box has
a batch number, and sometimes one batch doesnt match another.

If using different batches, mix up the tiles before you use them so that
you don't get a visible transition.

Check they look ok mixed though, sometimes they really dont.

Appliances: don't be tempted to avoid tiling under the appliances. If
you do, you're liable to run into major kitchen trouble down the line.
Of course you can, if you want to cut costs, use the cheapest thing of
the same thickness where its not seen.

Adhesive: Next time I floor tile I'll simply use sand& *cement.
Excellent in all ways but one, it takes about 3 days to build up
enough strength to walk on. If youre only doing a bit a day this works
ok. Spend the 90% adhesive saving on something else. PS tiles should
be dunked in water overnight before laying with cement.

Grout: be sure to seal it with lithofin or similar, it makes cleaning
it possible. Save some grout leftover, so 20 years later you can clean
the grout abrasively and wipe a fresh layer on to make it look new
again.

Yup their grout protector I have found very good.

Tile cutter: when you're finished with it, if you've got no tablesaw
you can fit a wood cutting blade (slightly larger, check clearances).

Going to make a very piddly little saw, and the motors on those are
often fairly feeble.

rpm and motor power are in the right region. Depth of cut is piddly,
but better than none.

Decoration: you don't have to stay with the same tile repeated all
over. *One can include a centre decoration, eg in mosaic or geometric
pattern, borders etc. But only do this if the design actually looks
good, a poor uninspired design will look poor and uninspired.


NT

"John Rumm" wrote in message
...
On 12/06/2012 11:12, NT wrote:
On Jun 11, 12:06 pm, Tim wrote:
After much trepidation I have decided to attempt a d-i-y effort to lay
300x300 ceramic floor tiles in a new ground floor entrance lobby and
shower room. The existing surface is screed over a wet piped heating
system.

The first move has been to acquire a cheap tile cutter which arrived
this morning. (Erbauer ERB337TCB) Apart from the weak and inaccurate
guide the only criticism seems to be the width of the supplied blade;
leading to lots of grinding paste. Has anyone tried a different disc?

I intend to lay using a diamond pattern; lots of cutting! Presumably I
need to work from the junction of a centre line drawn down the middle of
each area.

Any gotchas to avoid?

Tile cement recommendations?

Best cement spreader?

Grout? I hope to find a buff/orange/grey tile so grey grout?

What %age allowance in tile purchase quantity?

The adjoining floors will be engineered Oak as discussed earlier. A
d-i-y threshold strip as suggested may avoid tricky cutting.

regards


Tile size: the bigger the tile, the less easy it is to get a nice
level result.

Spacers: Tiles vary in their dimensional accuracy. Plastic tile
spacers dont provide for any real life variation. Bits of card from
the tile boxes work a bit better IME.

I find the spacers very good because they *do* allow subtle variation (or
at least the ones I have). One size used inline with the grout line, a
little wider used rotated 90 degrees, a pair is a little wider still etc.
Usually allows enough to tweak out any adjustments as required.

Electric tile saws: these produce a fine spray aimed straight at you.
Hardly noticeable at first, but unpleasant by the end of the day.
Simple solution is to stand to one side when using it.

and get one that has a water collecting rim round the edge - keeps more of
it in the machine for longer.

Wastage: last time I bought 10% extra, when using an electric cutter.
I used up almost none of that 10%.

Batch numbers: beware of batch numbers when buying tiles. Each box has
a batch number, and sometimes one batch doesnt match another.

If using different batches, mix up the tiles before you use them so that
you don't get a visible transition.

I'm amazed at how few do that with brick work with english
brick work I see in english videos.

Appliances: don't be tempted to avoid tiling under the appliances. If
you do, you're liable to run into major kitchen trouble down the line.
Of course you can, if you want to cut costs, use the cheapest thing of
the same thickness where its not seen.

Adhesive: Next time I floor tile I'll simply use sand& cement.
Excellent in all ways but one, it takes about 3 days to build up
enough strength to walk on. If youre only doing a bit a day this works
ok. Spend the 90% adhesive saving on something else. PS tiles should
be dunked in water overnight before laying with cement.

Grout: be sure to seal it with lithofin or similar, it makes cleaning
it possible. Save some grout leftover, so 20 years later you can clean
the grout abrasively and wipe a fresh layer on to make it look new
again.

Yup their grout protector I have found very good.

Tile cutter: when you're finished with it, if you've got no tablesaw
you can fit a wood cutting blade (slightly larger, check clearances).

Going to make a very piddly little saw, and the motors on those are often
fairly feeble.

Decoration: you don't have to stay with the same tile repeated all
over. One can include a centre decoration, eg in mosaic or geometric
pattern, borders etc. But only do this if the design actually looks
good, a poor uninspired design will look poor and uninspired.