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Default Patching window frame with car body filler

This is a top hung DG window frame in pine - possible someone like Magnet as the source. It's done 23 years so I perhaps should be grateful that just one of the six in the extension has deteriorated.

It's the bottom bar (of course!.)

The rotted area is some 12" x 1" x 1" - that of course is at least !!

I see 5 options

1 See if there is a replacement frame on the market - suspect unlikely

2 Get the local joiner to build a new frame

3 Build a new one myself

4 Cut out and patch with wood

5 Cut out and patch with car body filler while perhaps I do #3 over the winter.

Replacing the bottom bar is really a no-no as the frame will have to be out of the window for a period and this window faces the main road.

How good is body filler for this type of bodge ? My thinking would be to anchor it to some screws into the less rotten wood.


Rob
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Default Patching window frame with car body filler

On 08/04/2013 05:42 PM, robgraham wrote:
This is a top hung DG window frame in pine - possible someone like Magnet as the source. It's done 23 years so I perhaps should be grateful that just one of the six in the extension has deteriorated.

It's the bottom bar (of course!.)

The rotted area is some 12" x 1" x 1" - that of course is at least !!

I see 5 options

1 See if there is a replacement frame on the market - suspect unlikely

2 Get the local joiner to build a new frame

3 Build a new one myself

4 Cut out and patch with wood

5 Cut out and patch with car body filler while perhaps I do #3 over the winter.

Replacing the bottom bar is really a no-no as the frame will have to be out of the window for a period and this window faces the main road.

How good is body filler for this type of bodge ? My thinking would be to anchor it to some screws into the less rotten wood.


Rob


I certainly did a very substantial repair to the bottom of a stanchion,
where it joined the bottom rail, using the blue plastic padding and it
lasted for many years. I'd certainly give it a try before shelling out
on having one made up.

Andy C
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Default Patching window frame with car body filler

On 04/08/2013 18:22, Andy Cap wrote:
On 08/04/2013 05:42 PM, robgraham wrote:
This is a top hung DG window frame in pine - possible someone like
Magnet as the source. It's done 23 years so I perhaps should be
grateful that just one of the six in the extension has deteriorated.

It's the bottom bar (of course!.)

The rotted area is some 12" x 1" x 1" - that of course is at least !!

I see 5 options

1 See if there is a replacement frame on the market - suspect unlikely

2 Get the local joiner to build a new frame

3 Build a new one myself

4 Cut out and patch with wood

5 Cut out and patch with car body filler while perhaps I do #3 over
the winter.

Replacing the bottom bar is really a no-no as the frame will have to
be out of the window for a period and this window faces the main road.

How good is body filler for this type of bodge ? My thinking would be
to anchor it to some screws into the less rotten wood.


Rob


I certainly did a very substantial repair to the bottom of a stanchion,
where it joined the bottom rail, using the blue plastic padding and it
lasted for many years. I'd certainly give it a try before shelling out
on having one made up.

Andy C


+1
I find it helps to use a former to get a straight edge. This can just be
a strip of hardboard pinned in place and smeared with vaseline as a
release agent.

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Default Patching window frame with car body filler

On 04/08/2013 18:57, Chris Hogg wrote:
On Sun, 4 Aug 2013 09:42:59 -0700 (PDT), robgraham
wrote:


5 Cut out and patch with car body filler while perhaps I do #3 over the winter.

Replacing the bottom bar is really a no-no as the frame will have to be out of the window for a period and this window faces the main road.

How good is body filler for this type of bodge ? My thinking would be to anchor it to some screws into the less rotten wood.

Dig out all the rotten wood back to some reasonably solid stuff, then
let it dry out and paint it very liberally with Ronseal wet rot wood
hardener. When that's dried, use the car body filler. Ronseal do a
wood filler, but it's just a resin that goes off with a peroxide
curing agent, much like body filler. Perhaps just a different colour
depending on the filler used in them.


+1

When I did this a long while ago, using a Ronseal kit, it also included
some tablets of preservative about the size of the last joint of your
little finger, which you shoved down holes adjacent to the repair; I
think the idea was any further damp would dissolve the tablets and
protect the wood?

I did as you suggested and put quite a lot of screws in there to act as
a scaffold for the filler.

Certainly worked very well for me; IIRC it was done a couple of years
before we moved out of the property and was still perfect when we left.

--
David
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Default Patching window frame with car body filler

In article ,
robgraham writes:
This is a top hung DG window frame in pine - possible someone like Magnet as the source. It's done 23 years so I perhaps should be grateful that just one of the six in the extension has deteriorated.

It's the bottom bar (of course!.)

The rotted area is some 12" x 1" x 1" - that of course is at least !!

I see 5 options

1 See if there is a replacement frame on the market - suspect unlikely

2 Get the local joiner to build a new frame

3 Build a new one myself

4 Cut out and patch with wood

5 Cut out and patch with car body filler while perhaps I do #3 over the winter.

Replacing the bottom bar is really a no-no as the frame will have to be out of the window for a period and this window faces the main road.

How good is body filler for this type of bodge ? My thinking would be to anchor it to some screws into the less rotten wood.


You can buy wood filler, which is basically the same stuff.
You start by digging out the rot, and then liberally paint on
a resin stabiliser which soaks in and converts what's left into
resin with rot proofing for the timber fibres. Then mix up
resin-based filler to replace what's missing, and it sets
quickly. Can be sanded down afterwards, and painted.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]


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Default Patching window frame with car body filler

On Sunday, August 4, 2013 5:42:59 PM UTC+1, robgraham wrote:

Thanks guys for your replies and encouragement. With the reasonably obliging weather at the moment I'd better get on with it.

The question now of course is whether such a repair will last another 23 years as that will probably comfortably see me out !!!

Rob
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Default Patching window frame with car body filler

In article ,
robgraham writes:
On Sunday, August 4, 2013 5:42:59 PM UTC+1, robgraham wrote:

Thanks guys for your replies and encouragement. With the reasonably obliging weather at the moment I'd better get on with it.

The question now of course is whether such a repair will last another 23 years as that will probably comfortably see me out !!!


Probably not.
The weak part is the join to the existing timber which will still
change in size as the humidity changes, and the resin won't.
The best chance is probably if you use a resin-based hardener on
the existing timber, and you paint with a good quality external
gloss undercoat and topcoat (such as Weathershield), which will
last longer than standard gloss when the timber underneath does
move, before it cracks.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]
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Default Patching window frame with car body filler

On 04/08/13 20:15, robgraham wrote:
On Sunday, August 4, 2013 5:42:59 PM UTC+1, robgraham wrote:

Thanks guys for your replies and encouragement. With the reasonably obliging weather at the moment I'd better get on with it.

The question now of course is whether such a repair will last another 23 years as that will probably comfortably see me out !!!

Rob

most of the cars I repaired with CBF ended up scrapped because the
restof the metal that connected the CBF had rotted away :-)
protected from UV polyester resins certainly last a hell of a lot longer
than wood.




--
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Default Patching window frame with car body filler

Yup, just had one done here and the guy reckons the rest of the frame will
go before the repair does due to the expansiong and contraction eventually
leting more rain into the wood that is left.
Brian

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"Andy Cap" wrote in message
o.uk...
On 08/04/2013 05:42 PM, robgraham wrote:
This is a top hung DG window frame in pine - possible someone like Magnet
as the source. It's done 23 years so I perhaps should be grateful that
just one of the six in the extension has deteriorated.

It's the bottom bar (of course!.)

The rotted area is some 12" x 1" x 1" - that of course is at least !!

I see 5 options

1 See if there is a replacement frame on the market - suspect unlikely

2 Get the local joiner to build a new frame

3 Build a new one myself

4 Cut out and patch with wood

5 Cut out and patch with car body filler while perhaps I do #3 over the
winter.

Replacing the bottom bar is really a no-no as the frame will have to be
out of the window for a period and this window faces the main road.

How good is body filler for this type of bodge ? My thinking would be to
anchor it to some screws into the less rotten wood.


Rob


I certainly did a very substantial repair to the bottom of a stanchion,
where it joined the bottom rail, using the blue plastic padding and it
lasted for many years. I'd certainly give it a try before shelling out on
having one made up.

Andy C



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Default Patching window frame with car body filler

The weak part is the join to the existing timber which
will still change in size as the humidity changes, and the resin
won't.


IME (mainly Victorian softwood) the gap that sometimes occurs at the
join is a one off event which doesn't recur after subsequent filling.


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Default Patching window frame with car body filler


"Lobster" wrote in message
...
On 04/08/2013 18:57, Chris Hogg wrote:
On Sun, 4 Aug 2013 09:42:59 -0700 (PDT), robgraham
wrote:


5 Cut out and patch with car body filler while perhaps I do #3 over the
winter.




When I did this a long while ago, using a Ronseal kit, it also included
some tablets of preservative about the size of the last joint of your
little finger, which you shoved down holes adjacent to the repair; I think
the idea was any further damp would dissolve the tablets and protect the
wood?

I did as you suggested and put quite a lot of screws in there to act as a
scaffold for the filler.

Certainly worked very well for me; IIRC it was done a couple of years
before we moved out of the property and was still perfect when we left.

--


I've done a similar job and used clean small pebbles to make the filler go
further after I'd discovered that I was getting through tins of it at a
rate. I used a flat bladed screwdriver to rake out the rot.

mark


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Default Patching window frame with car body filler

On Monday, 5 August 2013 14:34:25 UTC+1, mark wrote:

I've done a similar job and used clean small pebbles to make the filler go
further after I'd discovered that I was getting through tins of it at a
rate.


+1 A very handy method.
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Default Patching window frame with car body filler

On 04/08/2013 18:57, Chris Hogg wrote:



Dig out all the rotten wood back to some reasonably solid stuff, then
let it dry out and paint it very liberally with Ronseal wet rot wood
hardener. When that's dried, use the car body filler. Ronseal do a
wood filler, but it's just a resin that goes off with a peroxide
curing agent, much like body filler. Perhaps just a different colour
depending on the filler used in them.

See http://tinyurl.com/mktqunz. I have no connection with Ronseal BTW.


+1
I bodged the bottom of a couple of window 3 years ago using Ronseal wet
rot wood hardener and then filled the hole with a car body filler (paste
+ catalyst). I'm currently stripping paint from the windowsills prior to
getting some double glazing fitted and the bodged repair is still in
very good condition.



--
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Default Patching window frame with car body filler

On Sunday, August 4, 2013 5:42:59 PM UTC+1, robgraham wrote:
This is a top hung DG window frame in pine - possible someone like Magnet as the source. It's done 23 years so I perhaps should be grateful that just one of the six in the extension has deteriorated.



It's the bottom bar (of course!.)



The rotted area is some 12" x 1" x 1" - that of course is at least !!



I see 5 options



1 See if there is a replacement frame on the market - suspect unlikely



2 Get the local joiner to build a new frame



3 Build a new one myself



4 Cut out and patch with wood



5 Cut out and patch with car body filler while perhaps I do #3 over the winter.



Replacing the bottom bar is really a no-no as the frame will have to be out of the window for a period and this window faces the main road.



How good is body filler for this type of bodge ? My thinking would be to anchor it to some screws into the less rotten wood.

Rob


It's worth posting back some experience comments on this. Because the hole got rather bigger as I went along, I opted to go for a wood in-fill bedded onto the 'body filler'.

Of course having gone to Halfords for the Isopon 'Car Body Filler'(B&Q don't stock this sort of thing now), I found when hunting my storage shed for the container of wood hardener, that I had a remarkably similar looking container of Ronseal's 2 part Wood Filler already in stock!. Similar to the point that the instructions were almost word-for-word the same, the hardener in the same container, etc. Do Ronseal own Isopon or vice-versa - this can't be chance?

The Ronseal stuff would have been better as it doesn't contain fibre-glass fibres and is a bit less viscous. The one thing I found was the instruction on both tins of so much catalyst to a golf ball size of epoxy, is difficult as who knows how big a golf ball is in this situation. By the time I switched to using the Ronseal stuff for another hole, I had reduced the catalyst amount to a couple of drops and then it stayed workable for pushing on 10 minutes.

Rob
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