Want an 8x6 decent shed.

perahps on 50x50 framework and loglap stuff.

Any suggestions (OK, building it ourselves is an option if the weather
cools down anytime soon)

Don't want a floor in it though - emailed one company that did a very
sturdy one but they said floor is compulsory.
--
http://www.voucherfreebies.co.uk

On Tuesday 23 July 2013 13:47 mogga wrote in uk.d-i-y:

Want an 8x6 decent shed.

perahps on 50x50 framework and loglap stuff.

Any suggestions (OK, building it ourselves is an option if the weather
cools down anytime soon)

Don't want a floor in it though - emailed one company that did a very
sturdy one but they said floor is compulsory.

75x50 min I would say - and for the size of shed you quote, I presonally
would use 100x50 (aka 2x4").

Use treated timbers for the base plates. After that it is a little less
important if you can build and maintain it watertight.

Go onto youtube and see if you can find Tommy Walsh builds a shed (was on
telly last year) - it did have some good tips, especially wit the roof.

You could make light work of this with a combi sliding saw and for fixings
use ScrewTite, Reisser or Pasload screws - these are all very good - will
self drill, not much splitting risk and using some 5mm x "quite long" (as
suits the joint) will give you good strong joints with minimal woorking
skills (the sliding saw will take care of that).

Nailgun for fixing the cladding or smaller Screwtites (etc) if you really
want to.

Power screwdriver.

You must decouple the shed from the ground - at least with some DPC.

For extra water titghtness/wind presistance, wrape the frame in DPM plastic
sheet and staple on tight and smooth before cladding.

Just some ideas


--
Tim Watts Personal Blog: http://squiddy.blog.dionic.net/

http://www.sensorly.com/ Crowd mapping of 2G/3G/4G mobile signal coverage

Reading this on the web? See:
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Usenet

On 23/07/2013 14:22, Tim Watts wrote:
On Tuesday 23 July 2013 13:47 mogga wrote in uk.d-i-y:

Want an 8x6 decent shed.

perahps on 50x50 framework and loglap stuff.

Any suggestions (OK, building it ourselves is an option if the weather
cools down anytime soon)

Don't want a floor in it though - emailed one company that did a very
sturdy one but they said floor is compulsory.

75x50 min I would say - and for the size of shed you quote, I presonally
would use 100x50 (aka 2x4").

To be fair my first workshop[1] was built with 75x50 and was around
12'x8'. That was significantly more substantial than anything
commercial, and more than adequate.

(being my first studwork project I neglected to stick to a divisor of 4'
for my joist spacings, which made lining it harder! So don't do that)

[1] http://internode.co.uk/workshop/phase3.htm



--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Tue, 23 Jul 2013 14:22:53 +0100, Tim Watts
wrote:


75x50 min I would say - and for the size of shed you quote, I presonally
would use 100x50 (aka 2x4").

Use treated timbers for the base plates. After that it is a little less
important if you can build and maintain it watertight.

Go onto youtube and see if you can find Tommy Walsh builds a shed (was on
telly last year) - it did have some good tips, especially wit the roof.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MUAX4uQV_o8
Ultimate workshop?

You could make light work of this with a combi sliding saw and for fixings
use ScrewTite, Reisser or Pasload screws - these are all very good - will
self drill, not much splitting risk and using some 5mm x "quite long" (as
suits the joint) will give you good strong joints with minimal woorking
skills (the sliding saw will take care of that).

Nailgun for fixing the cladding or smaller Screwtites (etc) if you really
want to.

Don't have one of them - but it might have to go on the shopping list!


Power screwdriver.

You must decouple the shed from the ground - at least with some DPC.

For extra water titghtness/wind presistance, wrape the frame in DPM plastic
sheet and staple on tight and smooth before cladding.

Just some ideas


Thank you!
--
http://www.voucherfreebies.co.uk

On Tue, 23 Jul 2013 15:01:48 +0100, John Rumm
wrote:

On 23/07/2013 14:22, Tim Watts wrote:
On Tuesday 23 July 2013 13:47 mogga wrote in uk.d-i-y:

Want an 8x6 decent shed.

perahps on 50x50 framework and loglap stuff.

Any suggestions (OK, building it ourselves is an option if the weather
cools down anytime soon)

Don't want a floor in it though - emailed one company that did a very
sturdy one but they said floor is compulsory.

75x50 min I would say - and for the size of shed you quote, I presonally
would use 100x50 (aka 2x4").

To be fair my first workshop[1] was built with 75x50 and was around
12'x8'. That was significantly more substantial than anything
commercial, and more than adequate.


I think I need a shed that big for my junk but would be running out of
garden.
This 8x6 is for the allotment.

(being my first studwork project I neglected to stick to a divisor of 4'
for my joist spacings, which made lining it harder! So don't do that)

[1] http://internode.co.uk/workshop/phase3.htm

I like the door!
--
http://www.voucherfreebies.co.uk

On Tuesday 23 July 2013 15:23 mogga wrote in uk.d-i-y:

On Tue, 23 Jul 2013 14:22:53 +0100, Tim Watts
wrote:


75x50 min I would say - and for the size of shed you quote, I presonally
would use 100x50 (aka 2x4").

Use treated timbers for the base plates. After that it is a little less
important if you can build and maintain it watertight.

Go onto youtube and see if you can find Tommy Walsh builds a shed (was on
telly last year) - it did have some good tips, especially wit the roof.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MUAX4uQV_o8
Ultimate workshop?


That rings a bell.



You could make light work of this with a combi sliding saw and for fixings
use ScrewTite, Reisser or Pasload screws - these are all very good - will
self drill, not much splitting risk and using some 5mm x "quite long" (as
suits the joint) will give you good strong joints with minimal woorking
skills (the sliding saw will take care of that).

Nailgun for fixing the cladding or smaller Screwtites (etc) if you really
want to.

Don't have one of them - but it might have to go on the shopping list!


If you want I would say you could survive with well chosen screws and a
power driver, but it will take 4-6 times as long. That may of course not be
a problem

Power screwdriver.

You must decouple the shed from the ground - at least with some DPC.

For extra water titghtness/wind presistance, wrape the frame in DPM
plastic sheet and staple on tight and smooth before cladding.

Just some ideas


Thank you!



--
Tim Watts Personal Blog: http://squiddy.blog.dionic.net/

http://www.sensorly.com/ Crowd mapping of 2G/3G/4G mobile signal coverage

Reading this on the web? See:
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Usenet

On Tuesday 23 July 2013 15:25 mogga wrote in uk.d-i-y:

On Tue, 23 Jul 2013 15:01:48 +0100, John Rumm
wrote:

On 23/07/2013 14:22, Tim Watts wrote:
On Tuesday 23 July 2013 13:47 mogga wrote in uk.d-i-y:

Want an 8x6 decent shed.

perahps on 50x50 framework and loglap stuff.

Any suggestions (OK, building it ourselves is an option if the weather
cools down anytime soon)

Don't want a floor in it though - emailed one company that did a very
sturdy one but they said floor is compulsory.

75x50 min I would say - and for the size of shed you quote, I presonally
would use 100x50 (aka 2x4").

To be fair my first workshop[1] was built with 75x50 and was around
12'x8'. That was significantly more substantial than anything
commercial, and more than adequate.


In that case John's right 'cos he's actually done it. I was extrapolating my
experiences of making 2x4" studwork for walls.

I think I need a shed that big for my junk but would be running out of
garden.
This 8x6 is for the allotment.

(being my first studwork project I neglected to stick to a divisor of 4'
for my joist spacings, which made lining it harder! So don't do that)

[1] http://internode.co.uk/workshop/phase3.htm

I like the door!
--
Tim Watts Personal Blog: http://squiddy.blog.dionic.net/

http://www.sensorly.com/ Crowd mapping of 2G/3G/4G mobile signal coverage

Reading this on the web? See:
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Usenet

On 23/07/2013 16:15, Tim Watts wrote:
On Tuesday 23 July 2013 15:25 mogga wrote in uk.d-i-y:

On Tue, 23 Jul 2013 15:01:48 +0100, John Rumm
wrote:

On 23/07/2013 14:22, Tim Watts wrote:
On Tuesday 23 July 2013 13:47 mogga wrote in uk.d-i-y:

Want an 8x6 decent shed.

perahps on 50x50 framework and loglap stuff.

Any suggestions (OK, building it ourselves is an option if the weather
cools down anytime soon)

Don't want a floor in it though - emailed one company that did a very
sturdy one but they said floor is compulsory.

75x50 min I would say - and for the size of shed you quote, I presonally
would use 100x50 (aka 2x4").

To be fair my first workshop[1] was built with 75x50 and was around
12'x8'. That was significantly more substantial than anything
commercial, and more than adequate.


In that case John's right 'cos he's actually done it. I was extrapolating my
experiences of making 2x4" studwork for walls.


I built a 10' by 16' using 2x4 and the timber was way oversized - 2x3
would have easily been sufficient, for a 6'x8' I would consider 2x2 (but
probably plump for 2x3 - I prefer over-engineered).

The first shed I "made" I bought in flat-pack. Was so flimsy I wouldn't
ever consider it again - I'd build it myself.

I think I need a shed that big for my junk but would be running out of
garden.
This 8x6 is for the allotment.

(being my first studwork project I neglected to stick to a divisor of 4'
for my joist spacings, which made lining it harder! So don't do that)

[1] http://internode.co.uk/workshop/phase3.htm

I like the door!

On 23/07/2013 16:14, Tim Watts wrote:
On Tuesday 23 July 2013 15:23 mogga wrote in uk.d-i-y:

On Tue, 23 Jul 2013 14:22:53 +0100, Tim Watts
wrote:


75x50 min I would say - and for the size of shed you quote, I presonally
would use 100x50 (aka 2x4").

Use treated timbers for the base plates. After that it is a little less
important if you can build and maintain it watertight.

Go onto youtube and see if you can find Tommy Walsh builds a shed (was on
telly last year) - it did have some good tips, especially wit the roof.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MUAX4uQV_o8
Ultimate workshop?


That rings a bell.



You could make light work of this with a combi sliding saw and for fixings
use ScrewTite, Reisser or Pasload screws - these are all very good - will
self drill, not much splitting risk and using some 5mm x "quite long" (as
suits the joint) will give you good strong joints with minimal woorking
skills (the sliding saw will take care of that).

Nailgun for fixing the cladding or smaller Screwtites (etc) if you really
want to.

Don't have one of them - but it might have to go on the shopping list!


If you want I would say you could survive with well chosen screws and a
power driver, but it will take 4-6 times as long. That may of course not be
a problem

Can recommend an impact driver + turbogold screws.


Power screwdriver.

You must decouple the shed from the ground - at least with some DPC.

For extra water titghtness/wind presistance, wrape the frame in DPM
plastic sheet and staple on tight and smooth before cladding.

Just some ideas


Thank you!

On Tuesday 23 July 2013 17:11 Piers wrote in uk.d-i-y:

On 23/07/2013 16:14, Tim Watts wrote:
On Tuesday 23 July 2013 15:23 mogga wrote in uk.d-i-y:

On Tue, 23 Jul 2013 14:22:53 +0100, Tim Watts
wrote:


75x50 min I would say - and for the size of shed you quote, I
presonally would use 100x50 (aka 2x4").

Use treated timbers for the base plates. After that it is a little less
important if you can build and maintain it watertight.

Go onto youtube and see if you can find Tommy Walsh builds a shed (was
on telly last year) - it did have some good tips, especially wit the
roof.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MUAX4uQV_o8
Ultimate workshop?


That rings a bell.



You could make light work of this with a combi sliding saw and for
fixings use ScrewTite, Reisser or Pasload screws - these are all very
good - will self drill, not much splitting risk and using some 5mm x
"quite long" (as suits the joint) will give you good strong joints with
minimal woorking skills (the sliding saw will take care of that).

Nailgun for fixing the cladding or smaller Screwtites (etc) if you
really want to.

Don't have one of them - but it might have to go on the shopping list!


If you want I would say you could survive with well chosen screws and
a power driver, but it will take 4-6 times as long. That may of course
not be a problem

Can recommend an impact driver + turbogold screws.

Those turbogold look very similar to Reisser so I agree.

You do not *need* an impact driver, but that is not a reason not to get one
of course

I have an earlier version of this:

http://www.screwfix.com/p/bosch-gsr-...wdriver-drill-
bare/58718

which does all my screwing needs upto around 5mm x 110mm

For the odd big buggers, I stick a bit in my mains drill.

Having said that, the roofers I had used an impact driver not much bigger
than mine and it was deeply impressive, so maybe you have good cause


--
Tim Watts Personal Blog: http://squiddy.blog.dionic.net/

http://www.sensorly.com/ Crowd mapping of 2G/3G/4G mobile signal coverage

Reading this on the web? See:
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Usenet

On Tue, 23 Jul 2013 16:14:30 +0100, Tim Watts
wrote:

That rings a bell.



You could make light work of this with a combi sliding saw and for fixings
use ScrewTite, Reisser or Pasload screws - these are all very good - will
self drill, not much splitting risk and using some 5mm x "quite long" (as
suits the joint) will give you good strong joints with minimal woorking
skills (the sliding saw will take care of that).

Nailgun for fixing the cladding or smaller Screwtites (etc) if you really
want to.

Don't have one of them - but it might have to go on the shopping list!


If you want I would say you could survive with well chosen screws and a
power driver, but it will take 4-6 times as long. That may of course not be
a problem

If it counts as an early Christmas present for him then it'll solve
that problem too!


Power screwdriver.

You must decouple the shed from the ground - at least with some DPC.

For extra water titghtness/wind presistance, wrape the frame in DPM
plastic sheet and staple on tight and smooth before cladding.

Just some ideas


Thank you!
--
http://www.voucherfreebies.co.uk

Why no floor?

Brian

--
From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active
"mogga" wrote in message
...
Want an 8x6 decent shed.

perahps on 50x50 framework and loglap stuff.

Any suggestions (OK, building it ourselves is an option if the weather
cools down anytime soon)

Don't want a floor in it though - emailed one company that did a very
sturdy one but they said floor is compulsory.
--
http://www.voucherfreebies.co.uk

On Tue, 23 Jul 2013 17:10:14 +0100, Piers wrote:

I built a 10' by 16' using 2x4 and the timber was way oversized - 2x3
would have easily been sufficient, for a 6'x8' I would consider 2x2 (but
probably plump for 2x3 - I prefer over-engineered).

The first shed I "made" I bought in flat-pack. Was so flimsy I wouldn't
ever consider it again - I'd build it myself.

Aye, our shed is an 8 x 6 flat pack. The frames and intermediate
verticals about every couple of feet are at the most 1.5" square.
Individual panels are a bit "flimsy" but once all bolted together
pretty riged. It stayed together when the wind rolled it over...

http://www.howhill.com/weather/view....2005&m=04&d=28

If I was going to build my own shed of 8x6 size 2x2 is ample. I'm
assuming 8x6 is feet, maybe those proposing 4x2 (inch) timbers are
assuming the 8x6 is metres? B-)

--
Cheers
Dave.

On 23/07/2013 15:23, mogga wrote:
On Tue, 23 Jul 2013 14:22:53 +0100, Tim Watts
wrote:


75x50 min I would say - and for the size of shed you quote, I presonally
would use 100x50 (aka 2x4").

Use treated timbers for the base plates. After that it is a little less
important if you can build and maintain it watertight.

Go onto youtube and see if you can find Tommy Walsh builds a shed (was on
telly last year) - it did have some good tips, especially wit the roof.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MUAX4uQV_o8
Ultimate workshop?

Na, feeble. Try:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8mkwbqObws8

or

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ge96Qvp-EzE


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 23/07/2013 17:22, Tim Watts wrote:
On Tuesday 23 July 2013 17:11 Piers wrote in uk.d-i-y:

On 23/07/2013 16:14, Tim Watts wrote:
On Tuesday 23 July 2013 15:23 mogga wrote in uk.d-i-y:

On Tue, 23 Jul 2013 14:22:53 +0100, Tim Watts
wrote:


75x50 min I would say - and for the size of shed you quote, I
presonally would use 100x50 (aka 2x4").

Use treated timbers for the base plates. After that it is a little less
important if you can build and maintain it watertight.

Go onto youtube and see if you can find Tommy Walsh builds a shed (was
on telly last year) - it did have some good tips, especially wit the
roof.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MUAX4uQV_o8
Ultimate workshop?


That rings a bell.



You could make light work of this with a combi sliding saw and for
fixings use ScrewTite, Reisser or Pasload screws - these are all very
good - will self drill, not much splitting risk and using some 5mm x
"quite long" (as suits the joint) will give you good strong joints with
minimal woorking skills (the sliding saw will take care of that).

Nailgun for fixing the cladding or smaller Screwtites (etc) if you
really want to.

Don't have one of them - but it might have to go on the shopping list!


If you want I would say you could survive with well chosen screws and
a power driver, but it will take 4-6 times as long. That may of course
not be a problem

Can recommend an impact driver + turbogold screws.

Those turbogold look very similar to Reisser so I agree.

Yup they are very similar...

You do not *need* an impact driver, but that is not a reason not to get one
of course

;-)

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Tue, 23 Jul 2013 20:39:54 +0100 (BST), "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:

On Tue, 23 Jul 2013 17:10:14 +0100, Piers wrote:

I built a 10' by 16' using 2x4 and the timber was way oversized - 2x3
would have easily been sufficient, for a 6'x8' I would consider 2x2 (but
probably plump for 2x3 - I prefer over-engineered).

The first shed I "made" I bought in flat-pack. Was so flimsy I wouldn't
ever consider it again - I'd build it myself.

Aye, our shed is an 8 x 6 flat pack. The frames and intermediate
verticals about every couple of feet are at the most 1.5" square.
Individual panels are a bit "flimsy" but once all bolted together
pretty riged. It stayed together when the wind rolled it over...

http://www.howhill.com/weather/view....2005&m=04&d=28

If I was going to build my own shed of 8x6 size 2x2 is ample. I'm
assuming 8x6 is feet, maybe those proposing 4x2 (inch) timbers are
assuming the 8x6 is metres? B-)

feet!
--
http://www.voucherfreebies.co.uk

On Tue, 23 Jul 2013 18:10:07 +0100, "Brian Gaff"
wrote:

Why no floor?

Brian

We've got a concrete base done - it's for a composting toilet and we
reckoned a concrete floor means it'll be easier than boards to keep
clean if it gets messed up.
--
http://www.voucherfreebies.co.uk

On Wed, 24 Jul 2013 09:18:10 +0100, mogga wrote:

We've got a concrete base done - it's for a composting toilet and we
reckoned a concrete floor means it'll be easier than boards to keep
clean if it gets messed up.

Ah, in that case I'd lift the walls off the floor by an inch and fit
a slatted wooden floor at least for a few square feet in front of the
throne. Gap is so you can easily hose/pressure wash it out and
provide ventilation, slatted platform can be removed have
hosed/pressure washed and replaced. Ordinary concrete is porous, it
will absorb "stuff", so it needs a waterproof screed or very well
sealing/painting

--
Cheers
Dave.

On Tuesday, July 23, 2013 4:15:24 PM UTC+1, Tim Watts wrote:
On Tuesday 23 July 2013 15:25 mogga wrote in uk.d-i-y:



On Tue, 23 Jul 2013 15:01:48 +0100, John Rumm

wrote:



On 23/07/2013 14:22, Tim Watts wrote:

On Tuesday 23 July 2013 13:47 mogga wrote in uk.d-i-y:



Want an 8x6 decent shed.



perahps on 50x50 framework and loglap stuff.



Any suggestions (OK, building it ourselves is an option if the weather

cools down anytime soon)



Don't want a floor in it though - emailed one company that did a very

sturdy one but they said floor is compulsory.



75x50 min I would say - and for the size of shed you quote, I presonally

would use 100x50 (aka 2x4").



To be fair my first workshop[1] was built with 75x50 and was around

12'x8'. That was significantly more substantial than anything

commercial, and more than adequate.





In that case John's right 'cos he's actually done it. I was extrapolating my

experiences of making 2x4" studwork for walls.



I think I need a shed that big for my junk but would be running out of

garden.

This 8x6 is for the allotment.



(being my first studwork project I neglected to stick to a divisor of 4'

for my joist spacings, which made lining it harder! So don't do that)



[1] http://internode.co.uk/workshop/phase3.htm



I like the door!

--

Tim Watts Personal Blog: http://squiddy.blog.dionic.net/



http://www.sensorly.com/ Crowd mapping of 2G/3G/4G mobile signal coverage



Reading this on the web? See:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Usenet

Surely the size of the framing members relates to the frame/rafter spacing. So 4x2's would sit further apart than 3x2's.

And then the cladding will have a bearing. (If sheeting it with 3/4" ply this would add considerable strength.)

I've built two sheds and am considering a third. I used corrugated iron sheeting for roof (with some translucent panels ), back and sides. Front and doors were done with t&g. Them my sheds are hidden behind the garage/workshop (never had a car in it) so the aesthetics weren't too important

On Wed, 24 Jul 2013 10:36:30 +0100 (BST), "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:

On Wed, 24 Jul 2013 09:18:10 +0100, mogga wrote:

We've got a concrete base done - it's for a composting toilet and we
reckoned a concrete floor means it'll be easier than boards to keep
clean if it gets messed up.

Ah, in that case I'd lift the walls off the floor by an inch and fit
a slatted wooden floor at least for a few square feet in front of the
throne. Gap is so you can easily hose/pressure wash it out and
provide ventilation, slatted platform can be removed have
hosed/pressure washed and replaced. Ordinary concrete is porous, it
will absorb "stuff", so it needs a waterproof screed or very well
sealing/painting

Yeah we were looking at a leveling compound of some sort to make it
look nice too - I assume that or floor paint would stop stuff
sticking.

Removable floor is an interesting idea. We could have access to a jet
washer a few hundred yards away.
--
http://www.voucherfreebies.co.uk

On Tuesday, July 23, 2013 5:22:44 PM UTC+1, Tim Watts wrote:

You do not *need* an impact driver,

Of course you do. It's a tool isn't it?

On Thursday 25 July 2013 13:44 Martin Bonner wrote in uk.d-i-y:

On Tuesday, July 23, 2013 5:22:44 PM UTC+1, Tim Watts wrote:

You do not *need* an impact driver,

Of course you do. It's a tool isn't it?

I wonder if surgeons feel the same:

http://www.hnmmedical.com/media/cata...5/b/u/burford-
finochietto_rib_spreader_1.jpg

--
Tim Watts Personal Blog: http://squiddy.blog.dionic.net/

http://www.sensorly.com/ Crowd mapping of 2G/3G/4G mobile signal coverage

Reading this on the web? See:
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Usenet