Does anyone know which is the strongest undiluted, Roundup 3000 or
Roundup 450? TIA

In message , Broadback
writes
Does anyone know which is the strongest undiluted,

Roundup 3000
360g/L

or Roundup 450?
450g/L

hth

--
Simon

12) The Second Rule of Expectations
An EXPECTATION is a Premeditated resentment.

On Mon, 3 Jun 2013 18:22:45 +0100, "postmaster @ stejonda"
wrote:
In message , Broadback
writes
Does anyone know which is the strongest undiluted,


Roundup 3000
360g/L


or Roundup 450?
450g/L


hth


--
Simon


12) The Second Rule of Expectations
An EXPECTATION is a Premeditated resentment.

Why do you buy Roundup? It is only glyphosate and there are plenty of
cheaper suppliers out there.

On Monday, June 3, 2013 3:00:05 PM UTC+1, Broadback wrote:
Does anyone know which is the strongest undiluted, Roundup 3000 or

Roundup 450? TIA

Such as ?

Lawrence wrote:
On Mon, 3 Jun 2013 18:22:45 +0100, "postmaster @ stejonda"
wrote:
In message , Broadback
writes
Does anyone know which is the strongest undiluted,


Roundup 3000
360g/L


or Roundup 450?
450g/L


hth


--
Simon


12) The Second Rule of Expectations
An EXPECTATION is a Premeditated resentment.

Why do you buy Roundup? It is only glyphosate and there are plenty of
cheaper suppliers out there.
Some pointers would be helpful.
I tend to pick up a litre or two in France when on holiday but it is
getting expensive there too now especially with the Euro exchange rate.

On Wednesday 05 June 2013 14:29 Bob Minchin wrote in uk.d-i-y:

Lawrence wrote:
On Mon, 3 Jun 2013 18:22:45 +0100, "postmaster @ stejonda"
wrote:
In message , Broadback
writes
Does anyone know which is the strongest undiluted,


Roundup 3000
360g/L


or Roundup 450?
450g/L


hth


--
Simon


12) The Second Rule of Expectations
An EXPECTATION is a Premeditated resentment.

Why do you buy Roundup? It is only glyphosate and there are plenty of
cheaper suppliers out there.
Some pointers would be helpful.
I tend to pick up a litre or two in France when on holiday but it is
getting expensive there too now especially with the Euro exchange rate.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ASTEROID-B...-WEEDKILLER-1-
LTR-/140956817199?pt=UK_Home_Garden_Garden_Plants_Ferti liser_CV&hash=item20d1ae572f

£36 but will nuke 1400m2, ie my entire garden about 4 times over.

I have some and it works at the stated dilution. In terms of killing area it
is vastly cheaper than anything in the garden centre.

There are cheaper ones, marked "professional only" and the only real
difference is they are often larger quantities and no inbuilt measuring
dispenser (get a syringe or finely marked flask). IIRC they come in 1/2-1/4
the price per killing area.

But the 1L bottle above was sufficient for me and will probably last several
years.

--
Tim Watts Personal Blog: http://squiddy.blog.dionic.net/

http://www.sensorly.com/ Crowd mapping of 2G/3G/4G mobile signal coverage

Reading this on the web? See:
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Usenet

On Jun 5, 3:49*pm, Tim Streater wrote:
In article ,
*Tim Watts wrote:





On Wednesday 05 June 2013 14:29 Bob Minchin wrote in uk.d-i-y:

Lawrence wrote:
On Mon, 3 Jun 2013 18:22:45 +0100, "postmaster @ stejonda"
wrote:
In message , Broadback
writes
Does anyone know which is the strongest undiluted,

Roundup 3000
360g/L

or Roundup 450?
450g/L

hth

--
Simon

* 12) The Second Rule of Expectations
An EXPECTATION is a Premeditated resentment.

Why do you buy Roundup? It is only glyphosate and there are plenty of
cheaper suppliers out there.
Some pointers would be helpful.
I tend to pick up a litre or two in France when on holiday but it is
getting expensive there too now especially with the Euro exchange rate.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ASTEROID-B...OSATE-WEEDKILL...
LTR-/140956817199?pt=UK_Home_Garden_Garden_Plants_Ferti liser_CV&hash=item20*d1a
e572f

£36 but will nuke 1400m2, ie my entire garden about 4 times over.

I have some and it works at the stated dilution. In terms of killing area it
is vastly cheaper than anything in the garden centre.

There are cheaper ones, marked "professional only" and the only real
difference is they are often larger quantities and no inbuilt measuring
dispenser (get a syringe or finely marked flask). IIRC they come in 1/2-1/4
the price per killing area.

But the 1L bottle above was sufficient for me and will probably last several
years.

And a 1lt bottle of R3000 will last me 10 years or so.

really? how much are you diluting it?

I am 1/2 way down my second 5 litre jug of conc glyphos (think its
360g) in 10 years just keeping path & patio weeds, invasive brambles
etc in check...ISTR 1/4 pint in a 6 litre sprayer.

Jim K

Jim K wrote:
On Jun 5, 3:49 pm, Tim Streater wrote:
In article ,
Tim Watts wrote:





On Wednesday 05 June 2013 14:29 Bob Minchin wrote in uk.d-i-y:

Lawrence wrote:
On Mon, 3 Jun 2013 18:22:45 +0100, "postmaster @ stejonda"
wrote:
In message , Broadback
writes
Does anyone know which is the strongest undiluted,

Roundup 3000
360g/L

or Roundup 450?
450g/L

hth

--
Simon

12) The Second Rule of Expectations
An EXPECTATION is a Premeditated resentment.

Why do you buy Roundup? It is only glyphosate and there are plenty of
cheaper suppliers out there.
Some pointers would be helpful.
I tend to pick up a litre or two in France when on holiday but it is
getting expensive there too now especially with the Euro exchange rate.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ASTEROID-B...OSATE-WEEDKILL...
LTR-/140956817199?pt=UK_Home_Garden_Garden_Plants_Ferti liser_CV&hash=item20*d1a
e572f

£36 but will nuke 1400m2, ie my entire garden about 4 times over.

I have some and it works at the stated dilution. In terms of killing area it
is vastly cheaper than anything in the garden centre.

There are cheaper ones, marked "professional only" and the only real
difference is they are often larger quantities and no inbuilt measuring
dispenser (get a syringe or finely marked flask). IIRC they come in 1/2-1/4
the price per killing area.

But the 1L bottle above was sufficient for me and will probably last several
years.

And a 1lt bottle of R3000 will last me 10 years or so.

really? how much are you diluting it?

I am 1/2 way down my second 5 litre jug of conc glyphos (think its
360g) in 10 years just keeping path & patio weeds, invasive brambles
etc in check...ISTR 1/4 pint in a 6 litre sprayer.

Jim K

I normally mix 360gm/l concentrate 1:20 with water giving 18gm/l

Jim, It seems like you are working (with mixed units!) at about 42:1 or
9gm/l

On Wed, 5 Jun 2013 06:08:24 -0700 (PDT), fred
wrote:
On Monday, June 3, 2013 3:00:05 PM UTC+1, Broadback wrote:
Does anyone know which is the strongest undiluted, Roundup 3000
or

Roundup 450? TIA


Such as ?

Have a look at

http://www.progreen.co.uk/weed-kille...ers/cat_3.html

No connection, etc. Just a satisfied customer.

I just goggled 360I dilution & it say 10ml per litre water.

So my 1/4 pint is approx 140ml per 6 litres -oops twice as much as could be.

Bob you appear to be doubling what I use according to your calcs?! That's 4 x more than on spec sheet!

Jim K

On 05/06/2013 19:49, Jim K wrote:
I just goggled 360I dilution & it say 10ml per litre water.

So my 1/4 pint is approx 140ml per 6 litres -oops twice as much as could be.

Bob you appear to be doubling what I use according to your calcs?! That's 4 x more than on spec sheet!

Glyphosate is one of those things where applying excess actually results
in a poorer kill since it kills the tops quicker and doesn't allow time
for the stuff to translocate throughout the plant. So not only do you
waste 2x or 4x the amount you needed to use but you fail to kill the
entire weed and then have to do the whole job again!

Won't kill ivy or holly seedlings or for some strange reason buttercup.

It will kill grass though which a neighbour who thought they were using
a broadleaf specific grass safe weedkiller learnt the hard way.

Actually grass is so sensitive to it that if you have overspray on boots
you can end up leaving footprints or outline footprints.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

On Wed, 05 Jun 2013 21:21:24 +0100, Martin Brown
wrote:

Glyphosate is one of those things where applying excess actually results
in a poorer kill since it kills the tops quicker and doesn't allow time
for the stuff to translocate throughout the plant. So not only do you
waste 2x or 4x the amount you needed to use but you fail to kill the
entire weed and then have to do the whole job again!

Correct. It's what is called a systemic weedkiller - a simple form
of which is just a 'normal' weedkiller diluted down. This means that
the leaves don't die straight away, so the weedkiller get translocated
around the plant, particularly down into its roots, and, although the
plant is killed more slowly, the entire plant is killed, rather than
just the greenery burnt off the top of it.

Won't kill ivy or holly seedlings or for some strange reason buttercup.

Holly has waxy leaves, off which it probably runs away rather than
hanging around to penetrate.

I suspect it depends on the type of buttercup. The worst buttercup is
creeping buttercup (ranunculus repens), which, like stinging nettles
and brambles, other things that also Roundup probably won't kill first
time, has many layers of roots and offshoot roots. You kill off one
layer, and part of the plant not reached by the translocation of
herbicide sprouts in its place. However, spraying each new
regeneration will eventually ensure that the entire plant is
permeated, or if not at least exhaust the plant's reserves of energy
because it is being repeatedly asked to send up shoots without
receiving enough energy through photo-synthesis to make up the
energetic cost of so doing, and it should eventually die. This will
work much better though if you start by donning gloves, for the
nettles and brambles, and pulling up by hand as much of the root
network as you can, then spraying the inevitable regrowth.

It will kill grass though which a neighbour who thought they were using
a broadleaf specific grass safe weedkiller learnt the hard way.

Actually grass is so sensitive to it that if you have overspray on boots
you can end up leaving footprints or outline footprints.

Yes, it's a GP plant killer, as you say NOT a broad-leaved
weed-killer.
--
================================================== =======
Please always reply to ng as the email in this post's
header does not exist. Or use a contact address at:
http://www.macfh.co.uk/JavaJive/JavaJive.html
http://www.macfh.co.uk/Macfarlane/Macfarlane.html

On Jun 5, 9:21*pm, Martin Brown
wrote:
On 05/06/2013 19:49, Jim K wrote:

I just goggled 360I dilution & it say 10ml per litre water.

So my 1/4 pint is approx 140ml per 6 litres -oops twice as much as could be.

Bob you appear to be doubling what I use according to your calcs?! That's 4 x more than on spec sheet!

Glyphosate is one of those things where applying excess actually results
in a poorer kill since it kills the tops quicker and doesn't allow time
for the stuff to translocate throughout the plant. So not only do you
waste 2x or 4x the amount you needed to use but you fail to kill the
entire weed and then have to do the whole job again!

Won't kill ivy or holly seedlings or for some strange reason buttercup.

kills my ivy - must be the extra strength ;)

Jim K

"Bob Minchin" wrote in message
...
Lawrence wrote:
On Mon, 3 Jun 2013 18:22:45 +0100, "postmaster @ stejonda"
wrote:
In message , Broadback
writes
Does anyone know which is the strongest undiluted,


Roundup 3000
360g/L


or Roundup 450?
450g/L


hth


--
Simon


12) The Second Rule of Expectations
An EXPECTATION is a Premeditated resentment.

Why do you buy Roundup? It is only glyphosate and there are plenty of
cheaper suppliers out there.
Some pointers would be helpful.
I tend to pick up a litre or two in France when on holiday but it is
getting expensive there too now especially with the Euro exchange rate.

Bayer Glyphosate at Amazon any good?

In article ,
Martin Brown writes:
On 05/06/2013 19:49, Jim K wrote:
I just goggled 360I dilution & it say 10ml per litre water.

So my 1/4 pint is approx 140ml per 6 litres -oops twice as much as could be.

Bob you appear to be doubling what I use according to your calcs?! That's 4 x more than on spec sheet!

Glyphosate is one of those things where applying excess actually results
in a poorer kill since it kills the tops quicker and doesn't allow time
for the stuff to translocate throughout the plant. So not only do you
waste 2x or 4x the amount you needed to use but you fail to kill the
entire weed and then have to do the whole job again!

Won't kill ivy or holly seedlings or for some strange reason buttercup.

It will kill grass though which a neighbour who thought they were using
a broadleaf specific grass safe weedkiller learnt the hard way.

I've made that mistake in the past - picked up the wrong weedkiller
spray. Grass grew back quite quickly.

Actually grass is so sensitive to it that if you have overspray on boots
you can end up leaving footprints or outline footprints.

Council managed to kill a chunk of my front lawn when zapping the
pavement, and overshooting onto the lawn.

That reminds me - I did once have a bag of lawn treatment which contained
moss killer, broad leaf killer, and fertilizer. It worked extremely well.
When it finally ran out, I bought some more, and the broad leaf killer is
now almost completely useless. It only works if you put on enough that the
grass dies too. Is this an area where where some effective product has been
withdrawn? The stuff which doesn't work is branded Westland Garden Health.
The stuff which worked was a different brand, which I can't remember now.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On Jun 5, 10:16*pm, Tim Streater wrote:
In article
,
*Jim K wrote:

On Jun 5, 3:49*pm, Tim Streater wrote:
And a 1lt bottle of R3000 will last me 10 years or so.

really? how much are you diluting it?

I am 1/2 way down my second 5 litre jug of conc glyphos (think its
360g) in 10 years just keeping path & patio weeds, invasive brambles
etc in check...ISTR 1/4 pint in a 6 litre sprayer.

As per the instructions, about 20cc to one litre of water in a sprayer.
That's worked on everything so far.

aha that's pretty much what I'm using - 140ml of conc to ~6 litres
water.

Odd how first spec sheet I googled to check rate for 360g gear
(upthread) said 10ml per litre?

oh well

Jim K

In article ,
Tim Streater writes:
As per the instructions, about 20cc to one litre of water in a sprayer.
That's worked on everything so far. During March I go round and spray
all the nettles, brambles, and cleavers that are starting to show
through, plus the driveway. Driveway needs attention throughout the
summer though.

Driveway probably wants something like Pathclear, which is a mixture
of glyphosate (to kill what's growing now) and a germination inhibitor
to prevent new growth starting afterwards.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On 06/06/2013 21:41, Tim Streater wrote:
In article ,
(Andrew Gabriel) wrote:

In article ,
Tim Streater writes:
As per the instructions, about 20cc to one litre of water in a
sprayer. That's worked on everything so far. During March I go round
and spray all the nettles, brambles, and cleavers that are starting
to show through, plus the driveway. Driveway needs attention
throughout the summer though.

Driveway probably wants something like Pathclear, which is a mixture
of glyphosate (to kill what's growing now) and a germination inhibitor
to prevent new growth starting afterwards.

Sounds just the ticket, but got rather mixed reviews on Amazon. Klods
there asking if the formulation has changed recently.

Fairly recently they removes Simazine(sp) from the domestic use
formulation because it was a bit too good at what it did and people
don't read the instructions. A couple of years back I think.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

On 03/06/2013 15:00, Broadback wrote:
Does anyone know which is the strongest undiluted, Roundup 3000 or
Roundup 450? TIA


Use any Glyphophate .... mixed with part oil .... much better than just
water, stops it simply running off leaves.

Tordon 22k or SBK brushkiller I have found pretty good

On 05/06/2013 21:45, Java Jive wrote:

I suspect it depends on the type of buttercup. The worst buttercup is
creeping buttercup (ranunculus repens), which, like stinging nettles
and brambles, other things that also Roundup probably won't kill first
time, has many layers of roots and offshoot roots.

Can you suggest the best thing for creeping buttercup but *not* grass?

On 07/06/2013 22:11, Chris Hogg wrote:
On Fri, 07 Jun 2013 20:26:28 +0100, newshound
wrote:

On 05/06/2013 21:45, Java Jive wrote:

I suspect it depends on the type of buttercup. The worst buttercup is
creeping buttercup (ranunculus repens), which, like stinging nettles
and brambles, other things that also Roundup probably won't kill first
time, has many layers of roots and offshoot roots.

Can you suggest the best thing for creeping buttercup but *not* grass?

If you mean creeping buttercup in a lawn, then any modern selective
lawn weedkiller such as Verdone Extra should be effective with one
application.

Thanks. Actually a paddock; I've got rid of a lot of the dock with
selective application of Verdone last year, but I had the impression
this wasn't zapping the buttercup. Will try again.

On 07/06/2013 20:26, newshound wrote:
On 05/06/2013 21:45, Java Jive wrote:

I suspect it depends on the type of buttercup. The worst buttercup is
creeping buttercup (ranunculus repens), which, like stinging nettles
and brambles, other things that also Roundup probably won't kill first
time, has many layers of roots and offshoot roots.

Can you suggest the best thing for creeping buttercup but *not* grass?

Verdone broadleaf specific weedkiller but follow the instructions
carefully or you could scorch the grass with too high a concentration.
Best applied about 3-4 days after last cutting it and leave to grow on
for a week afterwards. I find a 12" screwdriver useful for the odd
dandelion or small infestation of buttercup. I let other non-invasive
wildflowers grow in my lawn - I don't like the sterile chem-lawn look!

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

On 07/06/2013 23:27, newshound wrote:
On 07/06/2013 22:11, Chris Hogg wrote:
On Fri, 07 Jun 2013 20:26:28 +0100, newshound
wrote:

On 05/06/2013 21:45, Java Jive wrote:

I suspect it depends on the type of buttercup. The worst buttercup is
creeping buttercup (ranunculus repens), which, like stinging nettles
and brambles, other things that also Roundup probably won't kill first
time, has many layers of roots and offshoot roots.

Can you suggest the best thing for creeping buttercup but *not* grass?

If you mean creeping buttercup in a lawn, then any modern selective
lawn weedkiller such as Verdone Extra should be effective with one
application.

Thanks. Actually a paddock; I've got rid of a lot of the dock with
selective application of Verdone last year, but I had the impression
this wasn't zapping the buttercup. Will try again.

On that scale you can probably get something better and cheaper from a
farm suppliers that is better suited to use on a field where stock will
be eating the grass. On domestic lawns it is fine.

Is buttercup really that much of a problem in a paddock? Plenty of it
flowering in the organic farmers fields around here right now.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

Sorry, but not really. Amonst my qualifications I do have a Dip.
Agriculture, but I left the industry a long time ago, after
contracting what I still believe to be Farmer's Lung, though my last
and useless GP didn't agree. Thus anything I happen to remember, like
the creeping buttercup and glyphosate (RoundUp), which in those days
was a comparatively new spray, IIRC invented by Monsanto, is just a
bonus.

ISTR that the broad-leaved weedkiller most widely used then was
something called MCPA, but have no idea about now, as I've never
bothered to spray any of my lawns - I've only used glyphosate to
keep paths clear, etc.

I worked for a short while for an agricultural chemical company, and
what I can tell you, which is only vaguely useful information and not
what you asked, is that one agri-chemical, IIRC it was indeed MCPA, if
spilt, has a gut-wrenchingly revolting stench, sort of a cross between
sour milk, sour Guiness, rotting meat, and rotting fish. Most of the
firm's vans stank of it. Fortunately, I wasn't one of the normal
drivers, but occasionally would get detached from my normal work to
deliver an emergency supply to a big customer ordering after the
morning deadline for same day delivery, and paying extra for the
privilege. If and when this misfortune occurred, you prayed you would
get a newish van that hadn't had time to get smelly, but, of course,
always got the oldest one that had just been returned after being away
for repair, etc.

I remember doing a delivery to a big estate in Wiltshire, a round trip
of some two hundred miles on a hot summer's day. I felt thoroughly
ill all the way, and thought that nothing in the world could possibly
stink worse than the van, until I picked up a hitch-hiker. He was a
middle-aged to oldish man, with body odour guaranteed to cause
dinosaur extinction on a global scale. I nearly fainted as he got in,
and rapidly wound down the driver's window; additionally the heater
was already on full cold, but even so, the stench was so overpowering
that after a few hundred yards I had to invent a forgotten 'drop' down
a side road, and turfed him out at the junction to it. I think he was
a bit nonplussed and annoyed at being picked up and then dumped so
quickly!

On Fri, 07 Jun 2013 20:26:28 +0100, newshound
wrote:

Can you suggest the best thing for creeping buttercup but *not* grass?
--
================================================== =======
Please always reply to ng as the email in this post's
header does not exist. Or use a contact address at:
http://www.macfh.co.uk/JavaJive/JavaJive.html
http://www.macfh.co.uk/Macfarlane/Macfarlane.html