Hi,

I remember an old thread about mounting cupboards on kitchen walls and
people talked about different brackets they had used; some that they
had welded themselves. Someone posted a link to a bracket or rail that
they had bought and I am sure I kept it, thinking it might come in
useful one day. I think the url went to a shop for other useful
ironmongery too. The problem is I can't find it now. Does anyone
remember the thread or the link?

TIA

On Apr 10, 10:19*pm, Fred wrote:
Hi,

I remember an old thread about mounting cupboards on kitchen walls and
people talked about different brackets they had used; some that they
had welded themselves. Someone posted a link to a bracket or rail that
they had bought and I am sure I kept it, thinking it might come in
useful one day. I think the url went to a shop for other useful
ironmongery too. The problem is I can't find it now. Does anyone
remember the thread or the link?

TIA

http://www.screwfix.com/search.do;js...h_view_size=20

"Fred" wrote in message ...

Hi,

I remember an old thread about mounting cupboards on kitchen walls and
people talked about different brackets they had used; some that they
had welded themselves. Someone posted a link to a bracket or rail that
they had bought and I am sure I kept it, thinking it might come in
useful one day. I think the url went to a shop for other useful
ironmongery too. The problem is I can't find it now. Does anyone
remember the thread or the link?

TIA

Mine are mounted on something like this;
http://www.locksonline.com/acatalog/...FWfItAodj30ARA
The ones I used are aluminium and came from a local (now closed) builders
merchant. Unlike the individual brackets the long strip gives better fixing
opportunities on older walls.

Mike

On 11/04/2013 10:32, Muddymike wrote:
"Fred" wrote in message ...

Hi,

I remember an old thread about mounting cupboards on kitchen walls and
people talked about different brackets they had used; some that they
had welded themselves. Someone posted a link to a bracket or rail that
they had bought and I am sure I kept it, thinking it might come in
useful one day. I think the url went to a shop for other useful
ironmongery too. The problem is I can't find it now. Does anyone
remember the thread or the link?

TIA

Mine are mounted on something like this;
http://www.locksonline.com/acatalog/...FWfItAodj30ARA

The ones I used are aluminium and came from a local (now closed)
builders merchant. Unlike the individual brackets the long strip gives
better fixing opportunities on older walls.

The problem I had was that a horizontal mortar line ran along the wall
just where I wanted to fix the brackets. I ended up screwing 15mm x
2400mm x 600mm MDF sheets to the wall and fixing the brackets to them.

Colin Bignell

On Thu, 11 Apr 2013 10:32:51 +0100, "Muddymike" wrote:

Mine are mounted on something like this;
http://www.locksonline.com/acatalog/...FWfItAodj30ARA
The ones I used are aluminium and came from a local (now closed) builders
merchant. Unlike the individual brackets the long strip gives better fixing
opportunities on older walls.

How do they work then? I mean how is the cupboard bit fixed to the cupboard, and does it
have opportunities for adjusting the height (or tilt) of the cupboard to match where the
wall bracket finished up?

I fixed all mine by mounting a 2x1 batten underneath the run, sitting them on that then
sticking a couple of big screws through the backs into the wall. Well ok, there is a bit
more to it than that viz a viz pre-drilling, plugging etc, but its simple, easy and the
batten takes the weight while your putting the screws it, and afterwards come to that.

--
Phil Addison

"Phil Addison" wrote in message
news
On Thu, 11 Apr 2013 10:32:51 +0100, "Muddymike"
wrote:

Mine are mounted on something like this;
http://www.locksonline.com/acatalog/...FWfItAodj30ARA
The ones I used are aluminium and came from a local (now closed) builders
merchant. Unlike the individual brackets the long strip gives better
fixing
opportunities on older walls.

How do they work then? I mean how is the cupboard bit fixed to the
cupboard, and does it
have opportunities for adjusting the height (or tilt) of the cupboard to
match where the
wall bracket finished up?

I fixed all mine by mounting a 2x1 batten underneath the run, sitting them
on that then
sticking a couple of big screws through the backs into the wall. Well ok,
there is a bit
more to it than that viz a viz pre-drilling, plugging etc, but its simple,
easy and the
batten takes the weight while your putting the screws it, and afterwards
come to that.

I like that system and have used it. Another way (if you can afford to have
the units away from the wall a little) is to mill a 45 degree angle onto a
strip of wood which attaches to the units and an alternative mill on the
piece that fixes to the wall. The units then just hang onto the top rail and
fix against a bottom rail. Admittedly i'm ****ed at the mo and I doubt I
will understand it myself, tomorow.

"Phil Addison" wrote in message
news

On Thu, 11 Apr 2013 10:32:51 +0100, "Muddymike"
wrote:

Mine are mounted on something like this;
http://www.locksonline.com/acatalog/...FWfItAodj30ARA
The ones I used are aluminium and came from a local (now closed) builders
merchant. Unlike the individual brackets the long strip gives better
fixing
opportunities on older walls.

How do they work then? I mean how is the cupboard bit fixed to the
cupboard, and does it
have opportunities for adjusting the height (or tilt) of the cupboard to
match where the
wall bracket finished up?


The rail is screwed to the wall, the cabinets then hang on the rail using
standard adjustable wall unit brackets.
This image shows an adjustable wall unit bracket hung on to a standard
single wall plate.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...%20bracket.jpg

Mike

On Friday, April 12, 2013 8:53:59 AM UTC+1, Muddymike wrote:
"Phil Addison" wrote in message

news


On Thu, 11 Apr 2013 10:32:51 +0100, "Muddymike"

wrote:



Mine are mounted on something like this;

http://www.locksonline.com/acatalog/...FWfItAodj30ARA

The ones I used are aluminium and came from a local (now closed) builders

merchant. Unlike the individual brackets the long strip gives better

fixing

opportunities on older walls.



How do they work then? I mean how is the cupboard bit fixed to the

cupboard, and does it

have opportunities for adjusting the height (or tilt) of the cupboard to

match where the

wall bracket finished up?





The rail is screwed to the wall, the cabinets then hang on the rail using

standard adjustable wall unit brackets.

This image shows an adjustable wall unit bracket hung on to a standard

single wall plate.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...%20bracket.jpg



Mike

Note also that with the rail you have to cut out a small part of the cabinet side panel so the rail can pass behind if you want the cabinet to go right back against the wall. For the end cabinet the rail needs to stop just inside the cabinet side panel if there is no additional decorative panel being fitted. This is the only non-adjustable part of the setup.

Simon.

On Thu, 11 Apr 2013 10:32:51 +0100, "Muddymike"
wrote:

Mine are mounted on something like this;
http://www.locksonline.com/acatalog/...FWfItAodj30ARA
The ones I used are aluminium and came from a local (now closed) builders
merchant. Unlike the individual brackets the long strip gives better fixing
opportunities on older walls.

Thank you. I don't know if that was the link I was thinking of but if
it's not the same one, it's something very similar. It was some sort
of kitchen ironmongery web site that I thought might come in useful
one day.

On Fri, 12 Apr 2013 01:40:52 -0700 (PDT), sm_jamieson
wrote:

Note also that with the rail you have to cut out a small part of the cabine=
t side panel so the rail can pass behind if you want the cabinet to go righ=
t back against the wall. For the end cabinet the rail needs to stop just in=
side the cabinet side panel if there is no additional decorative panel bein=
g fitted. This is the only non-adjustable part of the setup.

Thank you. I hadn't appreciated that. I wonder whether a better option
would be to use a thin batten to keep the cabinets slightly off the
wall, and have the batten the thickness of the rail. I can't remember
if the url gave dimensions but I would have thought it would only be a
few millimetres?

On Friday, April 12, 2013 2:05:35 PM UTC+1, Fred wrote:
On Fri, 12 Apr 2013 01:40:52 -0700 (PDT), sm_jamieson

wrote:



Note also that with the rail you have to cut out a small part of the cabine=
t side panel so the rail can pass behind if you want the cabinet to go righ=
t back against the wall. For the end cabinet the rail needs to stop just in=
side the cabinet side panel if there is no additional decorative panel bein=
g fitted. This is the only non-adjustable part of the setup.

Thank you. I hadn't appreciated that. I wonder whether a better option
would be to use a thin batten to keep the cabinets slightly off the
wall, and have the batten the thickness of the rail. I can't remember
if the url gave dimensions but I would have thought it would only be a
few millimetres?

My rails were from woodfit and quite substantial and I think their overall depth was about 6mm or so. They had 8mm holes which was great for fixing with standard frame fixings. Woodfit does not seem to list these any more.

Here is an example but with 6mm holes.
http://www.locksonline.com/acatalog/...rail-6152.html

The hanging brackets (B&Q "Cooke & Lewis") mounted inside the cabinet side panels within the space behind the back panel, and were adjustable in all planes from screws inside the cabinets.

Simon.

On Friday, April 12, 2013 2:38:53 PM UTC+1, sm_jamieson wrote:
On Friday, April 12, 2013 2:05:35 PM UTC+1, Fred wrote:

On Fri, 12 Apr 2013 01:40:52 -0700 (PDT), sm_jamieson



wrote:


I want to use one long rail to hook them all on to but do I need to cut out a recess? If not the unit wont be level





Note also that with the rail you have to cut out a small part of the cabine=

t side panel so the rail can pass behind if you want the cabinet to go righ=

t back against the wall. For the end cabinet the rail needs to stop just in=

side the cabinet side panel if there is no additional decorative panel bein=

g fitted. This is the only non-adjustable part of the setup.



Thank you. I hadn't appreciated that. I wonder whether a better option

would be to use a thin batten to keep the cabinets slightly off the

wall, and have the batten the thickness of the rail. I can't remember

if the url gave dimensions but I would have thought it would only be a

few millimetres?



My rails were from woodfit and quite substantial and I think their overall depth was about 6mm or so. They had 8mm holes which was great for fixing with standard frame fixings. Woodfit does not seem to list these any more.



Here is an example but with 6mm holes.

http://www.locksonline.com/acatalog/...rail-6152.html



The hanging brackets (B&Q "Cooke & Lewis") mounted inside the cabinet side panels within the space behind the back panel, and were adjustable in all planes from screws inside the cabinets.



Simon.

wrote in
:

On Friday, April 12, 2013 2:38:53 PM UTC+1, sm_jamieson wrote:
On Friday, April 12, 2013 2:05:35 PM UTC+1, Fred wrote:

On Fri, 12 Apr 2013 01:40:52 -0700 (PDT), sm_jamieson



wrote:


I want to use one long rail to hook them all on to but do I need to
cut out a recess? If not the unit wont be level





Note also that with the rail you have to cut out a small part of
the cabine=

t side panel so the rail can pass behind if you want the cabinet
to go righ=



Here is an example but with 6mm holes.

http://www.locksonline.com/acatalog/...ger-wall-rail-
6152.html



The hanging brackets (B&Q "Cooke & Lewis") mounted inside the cabinet
side panels within the space behind the back panel, and were
adjustable in all planes from screws inside the cabinets.



Simon.



A rail is worth the effort as is gives more options for getting a good
fixing into the wall. I can't understand why the rail method is not
standard.