A while ago we had the boiler removed from the kitchen. It had been
wall mounted between two cupboards and hidden behind a door matching
the cupboard doors. I think when we bought the kitchen (quite a while
ago now), we bought a whole cupboard for the boiler space, but the
fitter just used the side panels, which he attached to the adjacent
cupboards and one of which he hung the door from.

So now we've got an unused space that could be a useful cupboard. I
thought the easiest thing to do would be to buy a carcass from
somewhere, fit that in the space, and hang the existing door on it.
However, there are two problems. One is that the cupboards are quite
tall and from what I have been able to find out so far seem to be a
non standard size - about 864mm high. The other is that the gap
between the two cupboards is 2 or 3 mm short of 60mm, so assuming a
60mm cupboard really is 60mm, it's not going to fit. It *might* be
possible to shift one of the existing cupboards along as there is a
gap between it an the wall to allow for some pipes. It has a simple
fillet piece of white covered chipboard to hide the gap. My hope was
that there might be enough slack between the pipes and the cupboard to
nudge it along a bit, and I could trim the fillet down by the
corresponding amount. But as I say I am thwarted with the cupboard
height anyway...

So I wondered how difficult it would be to make a cabinet? The
existing stuff is fairly bog standard quality as far as I can tell.
It's white faced 15mm chipboard, originally flat packed. If it
wouldn't be too hard, could someone give me a noddy guide to what
materials, fixings, joints etc I should use. I have fairly basic
tools. One thing that worries me from previous experience where it
didn't matter too much is that I know it's quite hard to get a
straight line with a jig saw (for me anyway!) and also I would have to
be pretty accurate with lengths. Could I use a router for this? I
don't have one but might like to have the excuse to buy one ;-)

All advice appreciated.

Thanks,

Bob

wrote:
A while ago we had the boiler removed from the kitchen. It had been
wall mounted between two cupboards and hidden behind a door matching
the cupboard doors. I think when we bought the kitchen (quite a while
ago now), we bought a whole cupboard for the boiler space, but the
fitter just used the side panels, which he attached to the adjacent
cupboards and one of which he hung the door from.

Assuming the door more or less fits and it was a standard door, you should
have a 'standard' space.

So now we've got an unused space that could be a useful cupboard. I
thought the easiest thing to do would be to buy a carcass from
somewhere, fit that in the space, and hang the existing door on it.

If the two side panels are still there, then all you need is shelves surely?
Why would you need a new carcass?

However, there are two problems. One is that the cupboards are quite
tall and from what I have been able to find out so far seem to be a
non standard size - about 864mm high. The other is that the gap
between the two cupboards is 2 or 3 mm short of 60mm, so assuming a
60mm cupboard really is 60mm, it's not going to fit. It *might* be
possible to shift one of the existing cupboards along as there is a
gap between it an the wall to allow for some pipes. It has a simple
fillet piece of white covered chipboard to hide the gap. My hope was
that there might be enough slack between the pipes and the cupboard to
nudge it along a bit, and I could trim the fillet down by the
corresponding amount. But as I say I am thwarted with the cupboard
height anyway...

Surely its all goverened by the height of the door? I would say its easier
to trim a carcass than move the cupboard.

So I wondered how difficult it would be to make a cabinet? The
existing stuff is fairly bog standard quality as far as I can tell.
It's white faced 15mm chipboard, originally flat packed. If it
wouldn't be too hard, could someone give me a noddy guide to what
materials, fixings, joints etc I should use.

15mm furniture board from Wickes, screw together with Turbogold screws from
Screwfix.

I have fairly basic
tools. One thing that worries me from previous experience where it
didn't matter too much is that I know it's quite hard to get a
straight line with a jig saw (for me anyway!) and also I would have to
be pretty accurate with lengths. Could I use a router for this? I
don't have one but might like to have the excuse to buy one ;-)

Its hard if not impossible to get a straight line with a jigsaw, even a top
of the range Makita/Bosch. Straight lines are not what jigsaws are for,
they are for curved lines. Circular saws cut straight lines, especially if
you use the incredibly useful sawboard
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Sawboard. Even a cheap circular
saw with a decent TCT blade will make a good job of this.

If your DIY cupboard is between two others, slightly splintered edges,
screws showing etc won't ever be seen.

But I have to go back & ask if the original side panels & door are
available?

Difficult to explain this sort of thing in words, do you have a picture?


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

The Medway Handyman wrote:
wrote:
A while ago we had the boiler removed from the kitchen. It had been
wall mounted between two cupboards and hidden behind a door matching
the cupboard doors. I think when we bought the kitchen (quite a while
ago now), we bought a whole cupboard for the boiler space, but the
fitter just used the side panels, which he attached to the adjacent
cupboards and one of which he hung the door from.

Assuming the door more or less fits and it was a standard door, you should
have a 'standard' space.

So now we've got an unused space that could be a useful cupboard. I
thought the easiest thing to do would be to buy a carcass from
somewhere, fit that in the space, and hang the existing door on it.

If the two side panels are still there, then all you need is shelves surely?
Why would you need a new carcass?

However, there are two problems. One is that the cupboards are quite
tall and from what I have been able to find out so far seem to be a
non standard size - about 864mm high. The other is that the gap
between the two cupboards is 2 or 3 mm short of 60mm, so assuming a
60mm cupboard really is 60mm, it's not going to fit. It *might* be
possible to shift one of the existing cupboards along as there is a
gap between it an the wall to allow for some pipes. It has a simple
fillet piece of white covered chipboard to hide the gap. My hope was
that there might be enough slack between the pipes and the cupboard to
nudge it along a bit, and I could trim the fillet down by the
corresponding amount. But as I say I am thwarted with the cupboard
height anyway...

Surely its all goverened by the height of the door? I would say its easier
to trim a carcass than move the cupboard.

So I wondered how difficult it would be to make a cabinet? The
existing stuff is fairly bog standard quality as far as I can tell.
It's white faced 15mm chipboard, originally flat packed. If it
wouldn't be too hard, could someone give me a noddy guide to what
materials, fixings, joints etc I should use.

15mm furniture board from Wickes, screw together with Turbogold screws from
Screwfix.

I have fairly basic
tools. One thing that worries me from previous experience where it
didn't matter too much is that I know it's quite hard to get a
straight line with a jig saw (for me anyway!) and also I would have to
be pretty accurate with lengths. Could I use a router for this? I
don't have one but might like to have the excuse to buy one ;-)

Its hard if not impossible to get a straight line with a jigsaw, even a top
of the range Makita/Bosch. Straight lines are not what jigsaws are for,
they are for curved lines. Circular saws cut straight lines, especially if
you use the incredibly useful sawboard
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Sawboard. Even a cheap circular
saw with a decent TCT blade will make a good job of this.

If your DIY cupboard is between two others, slightly splintered edges,
screws showing etc won't ever be seen.

But I have to go back & ask if the original side panels & door are
available?

Difficult to explain this sort of thing in words, do you have a picture?


I also dont understand why you want a carcass, just add shelves to the
existing space. A picture would help.

Re making kitchen cabs - not the remotest chance that a jigsaw would
do. For cabinet work you need a high quality saw that will cut
precisely and perfectly cleanly, and you dont do that with basic
tools.


NT

On 19 May, 23:50, "The Medway Handyman"
wrote:

Assuming the door more or less fits and it was a standard door, you should
have a 'standard' space.

You'd think so wouldn't you. The complete cupboards measure exactly
60mm. No matter how I measure between them its 2-3 mm short. The
door is the same and it looks OK but it's not a 60mm space.


If the two side panels are still there, then all you need is shelves surely?
Why would you need a new carcass?

You're probably right. I originally thought it would be easier just
to get a whole new carcass and when I went on to the DIY option, I
remained in that mind set. But yes I can probably re-use the side
panels. There is no top and bottom to the cupboard though. I wasn't
sure if this needed special fixings compared with the shelves.


15mm furniture board from Wickes, screw together with Turbogold screws from
Screwfix.


So you are saying just screw directly from the side panels into the
15mm edge? What sort of length screw?



Its hard if not impossible to get a straight line with a jigsaw, even a top
of the range Makita/Bosch. *Straight lines are not what jigsaws are for,
they are for curved lines. *Circular saws cut straight lines, especially if
you use the incredibly useful sawboardhttp://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Sawboard. *Even a cheap circular
saw with a decent TCT blade will make a good job of this.

I do have an old circular saw. Thanks for the sawboard tip.

But I have to go back & ask if the original side panels & door are
available?


Yes they are - sorry if I over-complicated it.

Thanks for the advice.

Bob

On 20 May, 00:04, wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:
wrote:
A while ago we had the boiler removed from the kitchen. It had been
wall mounted between two cupboards and hidden behind a door matching
the cupboard doors. *I think when we bought the kitchen (quite a while
ago now), we bought a whole cupboard for the boiler space, but the
fitter just used the side panels, which he attached to the adjacent
cupboards and one of which he hung the door from.

Assuming the door more or less fits and it was a standard door, you should
have a 'standard' space.

So now we've got an unused space that could be a useful cupboard. *I
thought the easiest thing to do would be to buy a carcass from
somewhere, fit that in the space, and hang the existing door on it.

If the two side panels are still there, then all you need is shelves surely?
Why would you need a new carcass?

However, there are two problems. *One is that the cupboards are quite
tall and from what I have been able to find out so far seem to be a
non standard size - about 864mm high. *The other is that the gap
between the two cupboards is 2 or 3 mm short of 60mm, so assuming a
60mm cupboard really is 60mm, it's not going to fit. *It *might* be
possible to shift one of the existing cupboards along as there is a
gap between it an the wall to allow for some pipes. *It has a simple
fillet piece of white covered chipboard to hide the gap. *My hope was
that there might be enough slack between the pipes and the cupboard to
nudge it along a bit, and I could trim the fillet down by the
corresponding amount. *But as I say I am thwarted with *the cupboard
height anyway...

Surely its all goverened by the height of the door? *I would say its easier
to trim a carcass than move the cupboard.

So I wondered how difficult it would be to make a cabinet? The
existing stuff is fairly bog standard quality as far as I can tell.
It's white faced 15mm chipboard, originally flat packed. *If it
wouldn't be too hard, could someone give me a noddy guide to what
materials, fixings, joints etc I should use.

15mm furniture board from Wickes, screw together with Turbogold screws from
Screwfix.

I have fairly basic
tools. *One thing that worries me from previous experience where it
didn't matter too much is that I know it's quite hard to get a
straight line with a jig saw (for me anyway!) and also I would have to
be pretty accurate with lengths. *Could I use a router for this? *I
don't have one but might like to have the excuse to buy one ;-)

Its hard if not impossible to get a straight line with a jigsaw, even a top
of the range Makita/Bosch. *Straight lines are not what jigsaws are for,
they are for curved lines. *Circular saws cut straight lines, especially if
you use the incredibly useful sawboard
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Sawboard. *Even a cheap circular
saw with a decent TCT blade will make a good job of this.

If your DIY cupboard is between two others, slightly splintered edges,
screws showing etc won't ever be seen.

But I have to go back & ask if the original side panels & door are
available?

Difficult to explain this sort of thing in words, do you have a picture?

I also dont understand why you want a carcass, just add shelves to the
existing space. A picture would help.


See reply to Dave above - yes just adding shelves probably is the
sensible option on reflection.


Re making kitchen cabs - not the remotest chance that a jigsaw would
do. For cabinet work you need a high quality saw that will cut
precisely and perfectly cleanly, and you dont do that with basic
tools.


So do you think this applies to cutting the shelves and bottom/top
pieces of cupboard accurately? Dave suggested a cicular saw with a
sawboard. Will I get away with that?

Thanks

Bob

wrote:
On 19 May, 23:50, "The Medway Handyman"
wrote:

Assuming the door more or less fits and it was a standard door, you
should
have a 'standard' space.

You'd think so wouldn't you. The complete cupboards measure exactly
60mm. No matter how I measure between them its 2-3 mm short. The
door is the same and it looks OK but it's not a 60mm space.


If the two side panels are still there, then all you need is shelves
surely?
Why would you need a new carcass?

You're probably right. I originally thought it would be easier just
to get a whole new carcass and when I went on to the DIY option, I
remained in that mind set. But yes I can probably re-use the side
panels. There is no top and bottom to the cupboard though. I wasn't
sure if this needed special fixings compared with the shelves.

Same fixing, a top or bottom is just a shelf without a shelf above or below
it.


15mm furniture board from Wickes, screw together with Turbogold
screws from
Screwfix.


So you are saying just screw directly from the side panels into the
15mm edge? What sort of length screw?

Yup. I'd use something around 40mm x 3.5mm. Or you could use block joints
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/18587/...TTINGS-_-18587


Its hard if not impossible to get a straight line with a jigsaw,
even a top
of the range Makita/Bosch. Straight lines are not what jigsaws are
for,
they are for curved lines. Circular saws cut straight lines,
especially if
you use the incredibly useful
sawboardhttp://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Sawboard. Even a
cheap circular saw with a decent TCT blade will make a good job of
this.

I do have an old circular saw. Thanks for the sawboard tip.

Prolly worth buying a new TCT blade for it. Deffo worth making up the
sawboard, you simply won't believe how useful they are, precision cutting to
within a millimetre with a little care.


HTH

--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

wrote:
On 19 May, 23:50, "The Medway Handyman"
wrote:
Assuming the door more or less fits and it was a standard door, you should
have a 'standard' space.

You'd think so wouldn't you. The complete cupboards measure exactly
60mm. No matter how I measure between them its 2-3 mm short. The
door is the same and it looks OK but it's not a 60mm space.

If the two side panels are still there, then all you need is shelves surely?
Why would you need a new carcass?

You're probably right. I originally thought it would be easier just
to get a whole new carcass and when I went on to the DIY option, I
remained in that mind set. But yes I can probably re-use the side
panels. There is no top and bottom to the cupboard though. I wasn't
sure if this needed special fixings compared with the shelves.

15mm furniture board from Wickes, screw together with Turbogold screws from
Screwfix.


So you are saying just screw directly from the side panels into the
15mm edge? What sort of length screw?


Its hard if not impossible to get a straight line with a jigsaw, even a top
of the range Makita/Bosch. Straight lines are not what jigsaws are for,
they are for curved lines. Circular saws cut straight lines, especially if
you use the incredibly useful sawboardhttp://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Sawboard. Even a cheap circular
saw with a decent TCT blade will make a good job of this.

I do have an old circular saw. Thanks for the sawboard tip.

But I have to go back & ask if the original side panels & door are
available?


Yes they are - sorry if I over-complicated it.

Thanks for the advice.

Bob

I'd get the furniture board cut to size at your local timber merchant.
When the pieces are precisely cut, the assembly is a piece of cake.
Screwing into the 15mm edge is just about possible if you're very
accurate. I use SF carcass screws but I'm sure plasterboard screws would
do as well.
Connector blocks are better if the assembled unit is going to be a tight
fit. Once a screwed unit goes out of square as you're moving it, you're
pretty much buggered. I clamp the blocks wherever possible to stop the
screw wandering as you fix them. You only get one chance in chipboard

In article
,
wrote:
A while ago we had the boiler removed from the kitchen. It had been
wall mounted between two cupboards and hidden behind a door matching
the cupboard doors. I think when we bought the kitchen (quite a while
ago now), we bought a whole cupboard for the boiler space, but the
fitter just used the side panels, which he attached to the adjacent
cupboards and one of which he hung the door from.

So now we've got an unused space that could be a useful cupboard. I
thought the easiest thing to do would be to buy a carcass from
somewhere, fit that in the space, and hang the existing door on it.
However, there are two problems. One is that the cupboards are quite
tall and from what I have been able to find out so far seem to be a
non standard size - about 864mm high. The other is that the gap
between the two cupboards is 2 or 3 mm short of 60mm, so assuming a
60mm cupboard really is 60mm, it's not going to fit.

Leave the existing setup, fit some spur shelving units to the back wall,
fit the brackets where you want the shelves. You could screw through into
the ends of these shelves from the other side for increased rigidity.

I made up some odd sized wall cupboards using this technique - makes for a
far stronger wall cupboard than is normal.

--
*Everyone has a photographic memory. Some don't have film *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article
,
wrote:
One thing that worries me from previous experience where it
didn't matter too much is that I know it's quite hard to get a
straight line with a jig saw (for me anyway!) and also I would have to
be pretty accurate with lengths. Could I use a router for this? I
don't have one but might like to have the excuse to buy one ;-)

Best way to cut this sort of board is with a good circular saw. Clamp a
guide to it to keep the cut straight. With a good blade you'll get a
factory quality cut. IIRC, Lidl had these on offer last week so your local
one might still have them

--
*Hang in there, retirement is only thirty years away! *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Tue, 19 May 2009 16:04:30 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

snip agreed stuff

For cabinet work you need a high quality saw that will cut
precisely and perfectly cleanly, and you dont do that with basic
tools.

I assumed "basic tools" would have included a hand saw - which always did the
job perfectly...


--
Geo

wrote:
On 20 May, 00:04, wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:
wrote:
A while ago we had the boiler removed from the kitchen. It had been
wall mounted between two cupboards and hidden behind a door matching
the cupboard doors. *I think when we bought the kitchen (quite a while
ago now), we bought a whole cupboard for the boiler space, but the
fitter just used the side panels, which he attached to the adjacent
cupboards and one of which he hung the door from.

Assuming the door more or less fits and it was a standard door, you should
have a 'standard' space.

So now we've got an unused space that could be a useful cupboard. *I
thought the easiest thing to do would be to buy a carcass from
somewhere, fit that in the space, and hang the existing door on it.

If the two side panels are still there, then all you need is shelves surely?
Why would you need a new carcass?

However, there are two problems. *One is that the cupboards are quite
tall and from what I have been able to find out so far seem to be a
non standard size - about 864mm high. *The other is that the gap
between the two cupboards is 2 or 3 mm short of 60mm, so assuming a
60mm cupboard really is 60mm, it's not going to fit. *It *might* be
possible to shift one of the existing cupboards along as there is a
gap between it an the wall to allow for some pipes. *It has a simple
fillet piece of white covered chipboard to hide the gap. *My hope was
that there might be enough slack between the pipes and the cupboard to
nudge it along a bit, and I could trim the fillet down by the
corresponding amount. *But as I say I am thwarted with *the cupboard
height anyway...

Surely its all goverened by the height of the door? *I would say its easier
to trim a carcass than move the cupboard.

So I wondered how difficult it would be to make a cabinet? The
existing stuff is fairly bog standard quality as far as I can tell.
It's white faced 15mm chipboard, originally flat packed. *If it
wouldn't be too hard, could someone give me a noddy guide to what
materials, fixings, joints etc I should use.

15mm furniture board from Wickes, screw together with Turbogold screws from
Screwfix.

I have fairly basic
tools. *One thing that worries me from previous experience where it
didn't matter too much is that I know it's quite hard to get a
straight line with a jig saw (for me anyway!) and also I would have to
be pretty accurate with lengths. *Could I use a router for this? *I
don't have one but might like to have the excuse to buy one ;-)

Its hard if not impossible to get a straight line with a jigsaw, even a top
of the range Makita/Bosch. *Straight lines are not what jigsaws are for,
they are for curved lines. *Circular saws cut straight lines, especially if
you use the incredibly useful sawboard
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Sawboard. *Even a cheap circular
saw with a decent TCT blade will make a good job of this.

If your DIY cupboard is between two others, slightly splintered edges,
screws showing etc won't ever be seen.

But I have to go back & ask if the original side panels & door are
available?

Difficult to explain this sort of thing in words, do you have a picture?

I also dont understand why you want a carcass, just add shelves to the
existing space. A picture would help.


See reply to Dave above - yes just adding shelves probably is the
sensible option on reflection.


Re making kitchen cabs - not the remotest chance that a jigsaw would
do. For cabinet work you need a high quality saw that will cut
precisely and perfectly cleanly, and you dont do that with basic
tools.


So do you think this applies to cutting the shelves and bottom/top
pieces of cupboard accurately?

of course

Dave suggested a cicular saw with a
sawboard. Will I get away with that?

yes, if you clamp hardboard onto it and cut through the pair, and go
real easy on the cutting. If you don't the finish will chip off all
along the edge and look terrible. I'd recommend trying it on a piece
of scrap first.


NT

wrote:
wrote:
On 20 May, 00:04, wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:
wrote:
A while ago we had the boiler removed from the kitchen. It had
been wall mounted between two cupboards and hidden behind a door
matching the cupboard doors. I think when we bought the kitchen
(quite a while ago now), we bought a whole cupboard for the
boiler space, but the fitter just used the side panels, which he
attached to the adjacent cupboards and one of which he hung the
door from.

Assuming the door more or less fits and it was a standard door,
you should have a 'standard' space.

So now we've got an unused space that could be a useful cupboard.
I thought the easiest thing to do would be to buy a carcass from
somewhere, fit that in the space, and hang the existing door on
it.

If the two side panels are still there, then all you need is
shelves surely? Why would you need a new carcass?

However, there are two problems. One is that the cupboards are
quite tall and from what I have been able to find out so far seem
to be a non standard size - about 864mm high. The other is that
the gap between the two cupboards is 2 or 3 mm short of 60mm, so
assuming a 60mm cupboard really is 60mm, it's not going to fit.
It *might* be possible to shift one of the existing cupboards
along as there is a gap between it an the wall to allow for some
pipes. It has a simple fillet piece of white covered chipboard to
hide the gap. My hope was that there might be enough slack
between the pipes and the cupboard to nudge it along a bit, and I
could trim the fillet down by the corresponding amount. But as I
say I am thwarted with the cupboard height anyway...

Surely its all goverened by the height of the door? I would say
its easier to trim a carcass than move the cupboard.

So I wondered how difficult it would be to make a cabinet? The
existing stuff is fairly bog standard quality as far as I can
tell. It's white faced 15mm chipboard, originally flat packed. If
it wouldn't be too hard, could someone give me a noddy guide to
what materials, fixings, joints etc I should use.

15mm furniture board from Wickes, screw together with Turbogold
screws from Screwfix.

I have fairly basic
tools. One thing that worries me from previous experience where it
didn't matter too much is that I know it's quite hard to get a
straight line with a jig saw (for me anyway!) and also I would
have to be pretty accurate with lengths. Could I use a router for
this? I don't have one but might like to have the excuse to buy
one ;-)

Its hard if not impossible to get a straight line with a jigsaw,
even a top of the range Makita/Bosch. Straight lines are not what
jigsaws are for, they are for curved lines. Circular saws cut
straight lines, especially if you use the incredibly useful
sawboard http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Sawboard. Even
a cheap circular saw with a decent TCT blade will make a good job
of this.

If your DIY cupboard is between two others, slightly splintered
edges, screws showing etc won't ever be seen.

But I have to go back & ask if the original side panels & door are
available?

Difficult to explain this sort of thing in words, do you have a
picture?

I also dont understand why you want a carcass, just add shelves to
the existing space. A picture would help.


See reply to Dave above - yes just adding shelves probably is the
sensible option on reflection.


Re making kitchen cabs - not the remotest chance that a jigsaw would
do. For cabinet work you need a high quality saw that will cut
precisely and perfectly cleanly, and you dont do that with basic
tools.


So do you think this applies to cutting the shelves and bottom/top
pieces of cupboard accurately?

of course

Dave suggested a cicular saw with a
sawboard. Will I get away with that?

yes, if you clamp hardboard onto it and cut through the pair, and go
real easy on the cutting. If you don't the finish will chip off all
along the edge and look terrible. I'd recommend trying it on a piece
of scrap first.

Depends on the blade & the sawboard greatly reduces chipping.

I use a 50 TPI blade on a 165mm Makita circ saw with a sawboard & can get
better than factory finish on melamine faced board & 38mm worktops. If you
are making shelves, cut from what will become the underside. The top
surface will be perfect.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

All advice appreciated.

Thanks,

Bob

During the mid 70's and shortly after buying our first new house I did a
complete fitted kitchen to replace the units fitted.
Money tight - made all the units myself.

In those days it tended to be just a sink unit & 1 double base unit and 1
double wall unit above fitted even in brand new houses.
I had ( still have ) a large circular saw and bought a new TCT blade for the
job ( £25 for just the blade IIRC ).
I used white contiboard for concealed areas and natural teak finish for all
that was showing ( doors, end panels etc ).
I soon realised that getting a good perfect straight edge was almost
impossible even when using the saws edge guide.
I used a sawboard against the saws baseplate from then onwards and still do
when I need an accurate cut.
The dimensions of the cut to sawboard distance are etched in my brain with
an allowance for the blade width where needed.

For a reason I can't remember now, I screwed through the side panels into
the end of the top/bottom/shelves and fitted a red wallplug into the holes
in the ends of the shelves ( etc ).
There was some logical reason at the time.
Maybe it was so that I knew for certain where the screws would bite whilst
drilling away from the kitchen.

I remember the first few joints and learning that the shelf end began to
split on some occasions.
Then I made sure to always align the plastic plug so that it expanded
exactly
in the direction of the shelf width not its height ( which was causing the
splits ).

The kitchen looked good when finished and was still there when we sold that
house 14 years later.

Definitely always saw from the unseen side to avoid chipping of the seen
edge.

The biggest problem I had was accurately.drilling the 35mm ( IIRC ) holes in
the doors for the hinges even when using a drill stand.

But I was a new DIYer then.

I wouldn't hesitate to add top/bottom/shelves to your existing cabinet in
your situation.

With care you should get good results.

JD

JDT2Q wrote:

For a reason I can't remember now, I screwed through the side panels
into the end of the top/bottom/shelves and fitted a red wallplug into
the holes in the ends of the shelves ( etc ).
There was some logical reason at the time.
Maybe it was so that I knew for certain where the screws would bite
whilst drilling away from the kitchen.

I remember the first few joints and learning that the shelf end began
to split on some occasions.
Then I made sure to always align the plastic plug so that it expanded
exactly
in the direction of the shelf width not its height ( which was
causing the splits ).

I come across this bodge pretty often. Wall plugs are NOT suitable for use
in chipboard, MDF or natural timber. The raison detre of a wall plug is to
expand, which will split any of these materials.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

Dave suggested a cicular saw with a
sawboard. Will I get away with that?

yes, if you clamp hardboard onto it and cut through the pair, and go
real easy on the cutting. If you don't the finish will chip off all
along the edge and look terrible.

You can get a perfect finish on contiboard with any old cheapo saw
providing the baseplate is running steadily against a straightedge of
some kind. Freehand sawing may well chip the edges

In article ,
The Medway Handyman wrote:
I come across this bodge pretty often. Wall plugs are NOT suitable for
use in chipboard, MDF or natural timber. The raison detre of a wall
plug is to expand, which will split any of these materials.

No need anyway - chipboard screws are readily available. Best to drill a
pilot hole, though. But most 'new' woodscrews will do just as well. Old
slotted types not.

--
*To steal ideas from *one* person is plagiarism; from many, research*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
The Medway Handyman wrote:
I come across this bodge pretty often. Wall plugs are NOT suitable for
use in chipboard, MDF or natural timber. The raison detre of a wall
plug is to expand, which will split any of these materials.

No need anyway - chipboard screws are readily available. Best to drill a
pilot hole, though. But most 'new' woodscrews will do just as well. Old
slotted types not.


IME, if you're screwing, say, an inch into the edge of chipboard, you
need to be spot on at 90 degs, and you need something with a smaller
shank than the normal size 8 chipboard screws. Haven't tried
plasterboard screws, but they look about right

The Medway Handyman wrote:
wrote:
wrote:
On 20 May, 00:04, wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:
wrote:
A while ago we had the boiler removed from the kitchen. It had
been wall mounted between two cupboards and hidden behind a door
matching the cupboard doors. I think when we bought the kitchen
(quite a while ago now), we bought a whole cupboard for the
boiler space, but the fitter just used the side panels, which he
attached to the adjacent cupboards and one of which he hung the
door from.

Assuming the door more or less fits and it was a standard door,
you should have a 'standard' space.

So now we've got an unused space that could be a useful cupboard.
I thought the easiest thing to do would be to buy a carcass from
somewhere, fit that in the space, and hang the existing door on
it.

If the two side panels are still there, then all you need is
shelves surely? Why would you need a new carcass?

However, there are two problems. One is that the cupboards are
quite tall and from what I have been able to find out so far seem
to be a non standard size - about 864mm high. The other is that
the gap between the two cupboards is 2 or 3 mm short of 60mm, so
assuming a 60mm cupboard really is 60mm, it's not going to fit.
It *might* be possible to shift one of the existing cupboards
along as there is a gap between it an the wall to allow for some
pipes. It has a simple fillet piece of white covered chipboard to
hide the gap. My hope was that there might be enough slack
between the pipes and the cupboard to nudge it along a bit, and I
could trim the fillet down by the corresponding amount. But as I
say I am thwarted with the cupboard height anyway...

Surely its all goverened by the height of the door? I would say
its easier to trim a carcass than move the cupboard.

So I wondered how difficult it would be to make a cabinet? The
existing stuff is fairly bog standard quality as far as I can
tell. It's white faced 15mm chipboard, originally flat packed. If
it wouldn't be too hard, could someone give me a noddy guide to
what materials, fixings, joints etc I should use.

15mm furniture board from Wickes, screw together with Turbogold
screws from Screwfix.

I have fairly basic
tools. One thing that worries me from previous experience where it
didn't matter too much is that I know it's quite hard to get a
straight line with a jig saw (for me anyway!) and also I would
have to be pretty accurate with lengths. Could I use a router for
this? I don't have one but might like to have the excuse to buy
one ;-)

Its hard if not impossible to get a straight line with a jigsaw,
even a top of the range Makita/Bosch. Straight lines are not what
jigsaws are for, they are for curved lines. Circular saws cut
straight lines, especially if you use the incredibly useful
sawboard http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Sawboard. Even
a cheap circular saw with a decent TCT blade will make a good job
of this.

If your DIY cupboard is between two others, slightly splintered
edges, screws showing etc won't ever be seen.

But I have to go back & ask if the original side panels & door are
available?

Difficult to explain this sort of thing in words, do you have a
picture?

I also dont understand why you want a carcass, just add shelves to
the existing space. A picture would help.


See reply to Dave above - yes just adding shelves probably is the
sensible option on reflection.


Re making kitchen cabs - not the remotest chance that a jigsaw would
do. For cabinet work you need a high quality saw that will cut
precisely and perfectly cleanly, and you dont do that with basic
tools.


So do you think this applies to cutting the shelves and bottom/top
pieces of cupboard accurately?

of course

Dave suggested a cicular saw with a
sawboard. Will I get away with that?

yes, if you clamp hardboard onto it and cut through the pair, and go
real easy on the cutting. If you don't the finish will chip off all
along the edge and look terrible. I'd recommend trying it on a piece
of scrap first.

Depends on the blade & the sawboard greatly reduces chipping.

I use a 50 TPI blade on a 165mm Makita circ saw with a sawboard & can get
better than factory finish on melamine faced board & 38mm worktops. If you
are making shelves, cut from what will become the underside. The top
surface will be perfect.

The OP has 'basic tools,' not makitas. Such an approach would just
ruin the board


NT

On 21 May, 11:45, wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:
wrote:
wrote:
On 20 May, 00:04, wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:
wrote:
A while ago we had the boiler removed from the kitchen. It had
been wall mounted between two cupboards and hidden behind a door
matching the cupboard doors. I think when we bought the kitchen
(quite a while ago now), we bought a whole cupboard for the
boiler space, but the fitter just used the side panels, which he
attached to the adjacent cupboards and one of which he hung the
door from.

Assuming the door more or less fits and it was a standard door,
you should have a 'standard' space.

So now we've got an unused space that could be a useful cupboard.
I thought the easiest thing to do would be to buy a carcass from
somewhere, fit that in the space, and hang the existing door on
it.

If the two side panels are still there, then all you need is
shelves surely? Why would you need a new carcass?

However, there are two problems. One is that the cupboards are
quite tall and from what I have been able to find out so far seem
to be a non standard size - about 864mm high. The other is that
the gap between the two cupboards is 2 or 3 mm short of 60mm, so
assuming a 60mm cupboard really is 60mm, it's not going to fit.
It *might* be possible to shift one of the existing cupboards
along as there is a gap between it an the wall to allow for some
pipes. It has a simple fillet piece of white covered chipboard to
hide the gap. My hope was that there might be enough slack
between the pipes and the cupboard to nudge it along a bit, and I
could trim the fillet down by the corresponding amount. But as I
say I am thwarted with the cupboard height anyway...

Surely its all goverened by the height of the door? I would say
its easier to trim a carcass than move the cupboard.

So I wondered how difficult it would be to make a cabinet? The
existing stuff is fairly bog standard quality as far as I can
tell. It's white faced 15mm chipboard, originally flat packed. If
it wouldn't be too hard, could someone give me a noddy guide to
what materials, fixings, joints etc I should use.

15mm furniture board from Wickes, screw together with Turbogold
screws from Screwfix.

I have fairly basic
tools. One thing that worries me from previous experience where it
didn't matter too much is that I know it's quite hard to get a
straight line with a jig saw (for me anyway!) and also I would
have to be pretty accurate with lengths. Could I use a router for
this? I don't have one but might like to have the excuse to buy
one ;-)

Its hard if not impossible to get a straight line with a jigsaw,
even a top of the range Makita/Bosch. Straight lines are not what
jigsaws are for, they are for curved lines. Circular saws cut
straight lines, especially if you use the incredibly useful
sawboardhttp://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Sawboard. Even
a cheap circular saw with a decent TCT blade will make a good job
of this.

If your DIY cupboard is between two others, slightly splintered
edges, screws showing etc won't ever be seen.

But I have to go back & ask if the original side panels & door are
available?

Difficult to explain this sort of thing in words, do you have a
picture?

I also dont understand why you want a carcass, just add shelves to
the existing space. A picture would help.

See reply to Dave above - yes just adding shelves probably is the
sensible option on reflection.

Re making kitchen cabs - not the remotest chance that a jigsaw would
do. For cabinet work you need a high quality saw that will cut
precisely and perfectly cleanly, and you dont do that with basic
tools.

So do you think this applies to cutting the shelves and bottom/top
pieces of cupboard accurately?

of course

Dave suggested a cicular saw with a
sawboard. *Will I get away with that?

yes, if you clamp hardboard onto it and cut through the pair, and go
real easy on the cutting. If you don't the finish will chip off all
along the edge and look terrible. I'd recommend trying it on a piece
of scrap first.

Depends on the blade & the sawboard greatly reduces chipping.

I use a 50 TPI blade on a 165mm Makita circ saw with a sawboard & can get
better than factory finish on melamine faced board & 38mm worktops. *If you
are making shelves, cut from what will become the underside. *The top
surface will be perfect.

The OP has 'basic tools,' not makitas. Such an approach would just
ruin the board

NT

I have an old B&D circular saw. I've never found it particularly nice
to use and it seems to be an odd size as the blades are quite hard to
come by. Consequently I avoid using it even for jobs where it might be
the most appropriate tool.

I know from comparing my crappy B&D cordless drill with my Makita that
I got subsequently what a difference there can be in tool quality.
Would the same be true of a circular saw? I could be tempted to buy a
new one if a suitable recommendation were obtained. I saw a Makita
model on Screwfix the other day - probably at the bottom end of their
range at £80 or so. Also what size blade should I be looking for in
terms of availability, usefulness and, I guess, how well it handles?

Thanks,

Bob

Oops - sorry for the excessive quoting in previous message.

It was collapsed in Google, where I posted from, and I didn't notice
it.

wrote:
On 21 May, 11:45, wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:
wrote:
wrote:
On 20 May, 00:04, wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:
wrote:
A while ago we had the boiler removed from the kitchen. It had
been wall mounted between two cupboards and hidden behind a door
matching the cupboard doors. I think when we bought the kitchen
(quite a while ago now), we bought a whole cupboard for the
boiler space, but the fitter just used the side panels, which he
attached to the adjacent cupboards and one of which he hung the
door from.
Assuming the door more or less fits and it was a standard door,
you should have a 'standard' space.
So now we've got an unused space that could be a useful cupboard.
I thought the easiest thing to do would be to buy a carcass from
somewhere, fit that in the space, and hang the existing door on
it.
If the two side panels are still there, then all you need is
shelves surely? Why would you need a new carcass?
However, there are two problems. One is that the cupboards are
quite tall and from what I have been able to find out so far seem
to be a non standard size - about 864mm high. The other is that
the gap between the two cupboards is 2 or 3 mm short of 60mm, so
assuming a 60mm cupboard really is 60mm, it's not going to fit.
It *might* be possible to shift one of the existing cupboards
along as there is a gap between it an the wall to allow for some
pipes. It has a simple fillet piece of white covered chipboard to
hide the gap. My hope was that there might be enough slack
between the pipes and the cupboard to nudge it along a bit, and I
could trim the fillet down by the corresponding amount. But as I
say I am thwarted with the cupboard height anyway...
Surely its all goverened by the height of the door? I would say
its easier to trim a carcass than move the cupboard.
So I wondered how difficult it would be to make a cabinet? The
existing stuff is fairly bog standard quality as far as I can
tell. It's white faced 15mm chipboard, originally flat packed. If
it wouldn't be too hard, could someone give me a noddy guide to
what materials, fixings, joints etc I should use.
15mm furniture board from Wickes, screw together with Turbogold
screws from Screwfix.
I have fairly basic
tools. One thing that worries me from previous experience where it
didn't matter too much is that I know it's quite hard to get a
straight line with a jig saw (for me anyway!) and also I would
have to be pretty accurate with lengths. Could I use a router for
this? I don't have one but might like to have the excuse to buy
one ;-)
Its hard if not impossible to get a straight line with a jigsaw,
even a top of the range Makita/Bosch. Straight lines are not what
jigsaws are for, they are for curved lines. Circular saws cut
straight lines, especially if you use the incredibly useful
sawboardhttp://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Sawboard. Even
a cheap circular saw with a decent TCT blade will make a good job
of this.
If your DIY cupboard is between two others, slightly splintered
edges, screws showing etc won't ever be seen.
But I have to go back & ask if the original side panels & door are
available?
Difficult to explain this sort of thing in words, do you have a
picture?
I also dont understand why you want a carcass, just add shelves to
the existing space. A picture would help.
See reply to Dave above - yes just adding shelves probably is the
sensible option on reflection.
Re making kitchen cabs - not the remotest chance that a jigsaw would
do. For cabinet work you need a high quality saw that will cut
precisely and perfectly cleanly, and you dont do that with basic
tools.
So do you think this applies to cutting the shelves and bottom/top
pieces of cupboard accurately?
of course
Dave suggested a cicular saw with a
sawboard. Will I get away with that?
yes, if you clamp hardboard onto it and cut through the pair, and go
real easy on the cutting. If you don't the finish will chip off all
along the edge and look terrible. I'd recommend trying it on a piece
of scrap first.
Depends on the blade & the sawboard greatly reduces chipping.
I use a 50 TPI blade on a 165mm Makita circ saw with a sawboard & can get
better than factory finish on melamine faced board & 38mm worktops. If you
are making shelves, cut from what will become the underside. The top
surface will be perfect.
The OP has 'basic tools,' not makitas. Such an approach would just
ruin the board

NT

I have an old B&D circular saw. I've never found it particularly nice
to use and it seems to be an odd size as the blades are quite hard to
come by. Consequently I avoid using it even for jobs where it might be
the most appropriate tool.

I know from comparing my crappy B&D cordless drill with my Makita that
I got subsequently what a difference there can be in tool quality.
Would the same be true of a circular saw? I could be tempted to buy a
new one if a suitable recommendation were obtained. I saw a Makita
model on Screwfix the other day - probably at the bottom end of their
range at £80 or so. Also what size blade should I be looking for in
terms of availability, usefulness and, I guess, how well it handles?

Thanks,

Bob

If the B&D blade is tungsten tipped and in reasonable condition, it
should be ok. You pay more for ease of use and accuracy of adjustment,
but hardly important in this case.
Sorry, you can't buy a new one :-)

wrote:
On 21 May, 11:45, wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:
wrote:
wrote:
On 20 May, 00:04, wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:
wrote:
A while ago we had the boiler removed from the kitchen. It had
been wall mounted between two cupboards and hidden behind a door
matching the cupboard doors. I think when we bought the kitchen
(quite a while ago now), we bought a whole cupboard for the
boiler space, but the fitter just used the side panels, which he
attached to the adjacent cupboards and one of which he hung the
door from.

Assuming the door more or less fits and it was a standard door,
you should have a 'standard' space.

So now we've got an unused space that could be a useful cupboard.
I thought the easiest thing to do would be to buy a carcass from
somewhere, fit that in the space, and hang the existing door on
it.

If the two side panels are still there, then all you need is
shelves surely? Why would you need a new carcass?

However, there are two problems. One is that the cupboards are
quite tall and from what I have been able to find out so far seem
to be a non standard size - about 864mm high. The other is that
the gap between the two cupboards is 2 or 3 mm short of 60mm, so
assuming a 60mm cupboard really is 60mm, it's not going to fit.
It *might* be possible to shift one of the existing cupboards
along as there is a gap between it an the wall to allow for some
pipes. It has a simple fillet piece of white covered chipboard to
hide the gap. My hope was that there might be enough slack
between the pipes and the cupboard to nudge it along a bit, and I
could trim the fillet down by the corresponding amount. But as I
say I am thwarted with the cupboard height anyway...

Surely its all goverened by the height of the door? I would say
its easier to trim a carcass than move the cupboard.

So I wondered how difficult it would be to make a cabinet? The
existing stuff is fairly bog standard quality as far as I can
tell. It's white faced 15mm chipboard, originally flat packed. If
it wouldn't be too hard, could someone give me a noddy guide to
what materials, fixings, joints etc I should use.

15mm furniture board from Wickes, screw together with Turbogold
screws from Screwfix.

I have fairly basic
tools. One thing that worries me from previous experience where it
didn't matter too much is that I know it's quite hard to get a
straight line with a jig saw (for me anyway!) and also I would
have to be pretty accurate with lengths. Could I use a router for
this? I don't have one but might like to have the excuse to buy
one ;-)

Its hard if not impossible to get a straight line with a jigsaw,
even a top of the range Makita/Bosch. Straight lines are not what
jigsaws are for, they are for curved lines. Circular saws cut
straight lines, especially if you use the incredibly useful
sawboardhttp://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Sawboard. Even
a cheap circular saw with a decent TCT blade will make a good job
of this.

If your DIY cupboard is between two others, slightly splintered
edges, screws showing etc won't ever be seen.

But I have to go back & ask if the original side panels & door are
available?

Difficult to explain this sort of thing in words, do you have a
picture?

I also dont understand why you want a carcass, just add shelves to
the existing space. A picture would help.

See reply to Dave above - yes just adding shelves probably is the
sensible option on reflection.

Re making kitchen cabs - not the remotest chance that a jigsaw would
do. For cabinet work you need a high quality saw that will cut
precisely and perfectly cleanly, and you dont do that with basic
tools.

So do you think this applies to cutting the shelves and bottom/top
pieces of cupboard accurately?

of course

Dave suggested a cicular saw with a
sawboard. *Will I get away with that?

yes, if you clamp hardboard onto it and cut through the pair, and go
real easy on the cutting. If you don't the finish will chip off all
along the edge and look terrible. I'd recommend trying it on a piece
of scrap first.

Depends on the blade & the sawboard greatly reduces chipping.

I use a 50 TPI blade on a 165mm Makita circ saw with a sawboard & can get
better than factory finish on melamine faced board & 38mm worktops. *If you
are making shelves, cut from what will become the underside. *The top
surface will be perfect.

The OP has 'basic tools,' not makitas. Such an approach would just
ruin the board

NT

I have an old B&D circular saw. I've never found it particularly nice
to use and it seems to be an odd size as the blades are quite hard to
come by. Consequently I avoid using it even for jobs where it might be
the most appropriate tool.

I know from comparing my crappy B&D cordless drill with my Makita that
I got subsequently what a difference there can be in tool quality.
Would the same be true of a circular saw? I could be tempted to buy a
new one if a suitable recommendation were obtained. I saw a Makita
model on Screwfix the other day - probably at the bottom end of their
range at £80 or so. Also what size blade should I be looking for in
terms of availability, usefulness and, I guess, how well it handles?

Thanks,

Bob

Probably the biggest difference between cheap and nice circulars is
the quality of cut. I've got one that produces a perfect edge with no
packing, and another that does its best to make a mess. Putting
hardboard, or any other scrap, on top of the piece being cut makes a
big difference, it stops the blade tearing lumps off the laminated
surface.

Can you get a nice new one? If you want. You'd get a nicer result
relatively easily.

TCT blades last a very long time, but if your prospective machine has
replacement blades at screwfix.com and toolstation.com then you're on
pretty safe ground.

If the B&D is old enough to have untipped steel teeth, ugh, go and get
a rexon/makita/etc, you'll be delighted.


NT