Unfortunately, no isolation valve.

Of course, if I turn off the main stopcock it just turns off cold. Hot water is still stored in hot water tank?

I'm guessing that I need to find some sort of stopcock near the hot water tank outlet?

On 16/03/13 19:49, paulfoel wrote:
Unfortunately, no isolation valve.

Of course, if I turn off the main stopcock it just turns off cold. Hot water is still stored in hot water tank?

I'm guessing that I need to find some sort of stopcock near the hot water tank outlet?


IF you have a mains pressure system then stopping mains will stop all
water UNTIL someone opens a tap..then air is sucked into the cylinder
and watre comes out..

Be advised this also applies to flushing loos. DAMHIKT.

For header tank systems the answer is crawl into the loft, tie up the
ball valve and run the hot tap till the system is drained.

You MAY find a gate valve on the tank outflow (at the top is the
outflow) but don't bank on it..



--
Ineptocracy

(in-ep-toc-ra-cy) €“ a system of government where the least capable to
lead are elected by the least capable of producing, and where the
members of society least likely to sustain themselves or succeed, are
rewarded with goods and services paid for by the confiscated wealth of a
diminishing number of producers.

On 16/03/2013 19:58, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 16/03/13 19:49, paulfoel wrote:
Unfortunately, no isolation valve.

Of course, if I turn off the main stopcock it just turns off cold. Hot
water is still stored in hot water tank?

I'm guessing that I need to find some sort of stopcock near the hot
water tank outlet?


IF you have a mains pressure system then stopping mains will stop all
water UNTIL someone opens a tap..then air is sucked into the cylinder
and watre comes out..

Be advised this also applies to flushing loos. DAMHIKT.

For header tank systems the answer is crawl into the loft, tie up the
ball valve and run the hot tap till the system is drained.

You MAY find a gate valve on the tank outflow (at the top is the
outflow) but don't bank on it..



The very occasional tap can be fixed without turning the water off. For
example, Supataps.

--
Rod

The Natural Philosopher wrote:

On 16/03/13 19:49, paulfoel wrote:

Unfortunately, no isolation valve.

Of course, if I turn off the main stopcock it just turns off cold. Hot water is still stored in hot water tank?
I'm guessing that I need to find some sort of stopcock near the hot water tank outlet?

IF you have a mains pressure system then stopping mains will stop all
water UNTIL someone opens a tap..then air is sucked into the cylinder
and watre comes out..

Be advised this also applies to flushing loos. DAMHIKT.

For header tank systems the answer is crawl into the loft, tie up the
ball valve and run the hot tap till the system is drained.

Given that the hot water exists the top of the tank, you just need to
stop cold from entering at the bottom ... turning off stopcock or
tying-up ball valve in cold tank in loft ... open the hot tap, you will
drain the cold tank but not the hot, that's enough to work on the
dripping tap though

On 16 Mar, 20:31, Andy Burns said

Given that the hot water exists the top of the tank, you just need to
stop cold from entering at the bottom ... turning off stopcock or
tying-up ball valve in cold tank in loft ... open the hot tap, you will
drain the cold tank but not the hot, that's enough to work on the
dripping tap though

Yebbut if you open the hot tap you will drain the cold tank through
the hot wasting the hot water. if you find a cold tap fed
from the header tank and use this to drain the header tank, your
expensively heated water will remain in the hot tank for when you open
the stopcock again.

John

On 16/03/2013 21:20, JohnW wrote:
On 16 Mar, 20:31, Andy Burns said

Given that the hot water exists the top of the tank, you just need to
stop cold from entering at the bottom ... turning off stopcock or
tying-up ball valve in cold tank in loft ... open the hot tap, you will
drain the cold tank but not the hot, that's enough to work on the
dripping tap though

Yebbut if you open the hot tap you will drain the cold tank through
the hot wasting the hot water. if you find a cold tap fed
from the header tank and use this to drain the header tank, your
expensively heated water will remain in the hot tank for when you open
the stopcock again.

John

Or do it after having a bath (and turning water heating off)...

--
Rod

On 16/03/13 21:20, JohnW wrote:
On 16 Mar, 20:31, Andy Burns said

Given that the hot water exists the top of the tank, you just need to
stop cold from entering at the bottom ... turning off stopcock or
tying-up ball valve in cold tank in loft ... open the hot tap, you will
drain the cold tank but not the hot, that's enough to work on the
dripping tap though

Yebbut if you open the hot tap you will drain the cold tank through
the hot wasting the hot water. if you find a cold tap fed
from the header tank and use this to drain the header tank, your
expensively heated water will remain in the hot tank for when you open
the stopcock again.

unless you stop the air getting into the hot tank, limiting its supply
will not stop it draining

John



--
Ineptocracy

(in-ep-toc-ra-cy) €“ a system of government where the least capable to
lead are elected by the least capable of producing, and where the
members of society least likely to sustain themselves or succeed, are
rewarded with goods and services paid for by the confiscated wealth of a
diminishing number of producers.

The Natural Philosopher wrote:

unless you stop the air getting into the hot tank, limiting its supply
will not stop it draining

How is it going to drain from the top? I had to syphon it with a hose
when I drilled a flange in the side for the showerpump.

In message
,
Owain writes
On Mar 16, 7:58*pm, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
For header tank systems the answer is crawl into the loft, tie up the
ball valve and run the hot tap till the system is drained.

Or you can put bungs on the outlet of the tank and the vent pipe.

My dad did that, hot water stopped flowing. Cause, drowned rat stuck in
the outlet pipe of the storage tank in the attic.

So maybe find a sacrificial rat and there's your answer.



--
Bill

On 16/03/2013 19:58, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 16/03/13 19:49, paulfoel wrote:
Unfortunately, no isolation valve.

Of course, if I turn off the main stopcock it just turns off cold. Hot
water is still stored in hot water tank?

I'm guessing that I need to find some sort of stopcock near the hot
water tank outlet?


IF you have a mains pressure system then stopping mains will stop all
water UNTIL someone opens a tap..then air is sucked into the cylinder
and watre comes out..

Be advised this also applies to flushing loos. DAMHIKT.

Trust me, I know how you know

For header tank systems the answer is crawl into the loft, tie up the
ball valve and run the hot tap till the system is drained.

You MAY find a gate valve on the tank outflow (at the top is the
outflow) but don't bank on it..


Turn off the main stopcock and the hot water heating. Do it before bathtime.

After bath (next morning is possible) drain tank via cold tap.

This is not suitable for showers as it may run out half way through your
shower leaving you all soapy. DAMHIKT!

Andy

Still totally confused...

Hot water tank is upstairs in cupboard. Strangely, I turned water off yesterday for a bit and then back on and hot water taps spluttered a bit.

How does turning off the cold water feed into the house stop water coming out of the hot tank which is full? Don't get it.

Obviously, what I want to be able to do is dismantle this leaking tap...

paulfoel wrote:
Still totally confused...

Hot water tank is upstairs in cupboard. Strangely, I turned water off
yesterday for a bit and then back on and hot water taps spluttered a
bit.

How does turning off the cold water feed into the house stop water
coming out of the hot tank which is full? Don't get it.

Unless you can find an isolation valve for the hot water - this would
normally be a ball valve between the cold water tank and the hot water
cylinder, then you would have to drain the cold water tank down by turning
off the stoptap and opening a hot tap until the cold water tank was empty.

You will not empty the hot water cylinder - it stays full - the hot water
from this tank to your taps is a gravity feed and all you are doing is
removing the pressure to the tank (either by the isolation valve or by
emptying the header tank). No pressure means no flow and you can remove the
hot tap.


--
Adam

On Mar 16, 7:58*pm, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:
On 16/03/13 19:49, paulfoel wrote:

Unfortunately, no isolation valve.

Of course, if I turn off the main stopcock it just turns off cold. Hot water is still stored in hot water tank?

I'm guessing that I need to find some sort of stopcock near the hot water tank outlet?

IF you have a mains pressure system then stopping mains will stop all
water UNTIL someone opens a tap..then air is sucked into the cylinder
and watre comes out..

Be advised this also applies to flushing loos. DAMHIKT.

unless the loo/tap is higher than the mains hot water tank....

Jim K

On Sunday, March 17, 2013 9:19:21 AM UTC, wrote:
paulfoel wrote:

Still totally confused...



Hot water tank is upstairs in cupboard. Strangely, I turned water off

yesterday for a bit and then back on and hot water taps spluttered a

bit.



How does turning off the cold water feed into the house stop water

coming out of the hot tank which is full? Don't get it.



Unless you can find an isolation valve for the hot water - this would

normally be a ball valve between the cold water tank and the hot water

cylinder, then you would have to drain the cold water tank down by turning

off the stoptap and opening a hot tap until the cold water tank was empty.



You will not empty the hot water cylinder - it stays full - the hot water

from this tank to your taps is a gravity feed and all you are doing is

removing the pressure to the tank (either by the isolation valve or by

emptying the header tank). No pressure means no flow and you can remove the

hot tap.





--

Adam

Cold water tank? dont have one....

All we have is a hot water tank in an airing cupboard in the main bedroom. Surely this cant be gravity fed?

Yes, I have two in my loft both coming out of the cold tank, one to the cold
feeds from the tank the other goes to the bottom of the hot cylinder intake,
and thus you can turn that one off to stop hot, but if you need to actually
change the immersion heater things get very complicated and you start having
airlock problems when you try to start it all up again.
Brian

--
From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active
"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
On 16/03/13 19:49, paulfoel wrote:
Unfortunately, no isolation valve.

Of course, if I turn off the main stopcock it just turns off cold. Hot
water is still stored in hot water tank?

I'm guessing that I need to find some sort of stopcock near the hot water
tank outlet?


IF you have a mains pressure system then stopping mains will stop all
water UNTIL someone opens a tap..then air is sucked into the cylinder and
watre comes out..

Be advised this also applies to flushing loos. DAMHIKT.

For header tank systems the answer is crawl into the loft, tie up the ball
valve and run the hot tap till the system is drained.

You MAY find a gate valve on the tank outflow (at the top is the outflow)
but don't bank on it..



--
Ineptocracy

(in-ep-toc'-ra-cy) - a system of government where the least capable to
lead are elected by the least capable of producing, and where the members
of society least likely to sustain themselves or succeed, are rewarded
with goods and services paid for by the confiscated wealth of a
diminishing number of producers.

On 16/03/2013 20:04, polygonum wrote:

The very occasional tap can be fixed without turning the water off. For
example, Supataps.

They came out when I was a child, and I thought they were SO modern!
That dates me.

paulfoel wrote:
On Sunday, March 17, 2013 9:19:21 AM UTC,
wrote:
paulfoel wrote:

Still totally confused...



Hot water tank is upstairs in cupboard. Strangely, I turned water
off

yesterday for a bit and then back on and hot water taps
spluttered a

bit.



How does turning off the cold water feed into the house stop water

coming out of the hot tank which is full? Don't get it.



Unless you can find an isolation valve for the hot water - this
would

normally be a ball valve between the cold water tank and the hot
water

cylinder, then you would have to drain the cold water tank down by
turning

off the stoptap and opening a hot tap until the cold water tank was
empty.



You will not empty the hot water cylinder - it stays full - the hot
water

from this tank to your taps is a gravity feed and all you are doing
is

removing the pressure to the tank (either by the isolation valve or
by

emptying the header tank). No pressure means no flow and you can
remove the

hot tap.





--

Adam

Cold water tank? dont have one....

All we have is a hot water tank in an airing cupboard in the main
bedroom. Surely this cant be gravity fed?

It could be gravity fed. It depends what is in your loft!

As others have already mentioned it may be a mains pressure HW tank and have
suggested what to do.

Post a photo of what you have.

--
Adam

GB wrote:

On 16/03/2013 20:04, polygonum wrote:

The very occasional tap can be fixed without turning the water off. For
example, Supataps.

They came out when I was a child, and I thought they were SO modern!
That dates me.

I have them on the basin in my bathroom, they've never dripped though so
haven't exactly made any timesaving ...

paulfoel wrote:

All we have is a hot water tank in an airing cupboard in the main
bedroom. Surely this cant be gravity fed?

On the kitchen tap(s) does your hot spray out with equal force to your
cold, or is the hot a trickle by comparison?

On 17/03/2013 12:07, paulfoel wrote:


Cold water tank? dont have one....

All we have is a hot water tank in an airing cupboard in the main bedroom. Surely this cant be gravity fed?

Does the hot water 'tank' look like a conventional copper cylinder, or
is it a really sturdy looking affair?

If the latter, you may have an unvented hot cylinder with a direct feed
from the cold mains, and running at near mains pressure. If so, it will
have lots of pipes and other gubbins connected to it - which is why
someone asked for a photo in order to be able to identify it.

If it *is* an unvented cylinder, the hot flow will stop very shortly
after turning off the cold mains. Turn off the mains and open a hot tap.
If the water flows unabated for a long time, it ain't an unvented
cylinder. I would expect to get no more than a few litres of hot before
it reduces to a dribble and then stops. If this happens, you can safely
dismantle a tap to fix the leak - as long as you don't turn the mains on
again until the tap's back together!
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

On 16/03/2013 19:49, paulfoel wrote:
Unfortunately, no isolation valve.

Of course, if I turn off the main stopcock it just turns off cold.
Hot water is still stored in hot water tank?

I'm guessing that I need to find some sort of stopcock near the hot
water tank outlet?

Firstly there should be no need to drain the hot water from the tank
just to stop the flow - you just need to stop the flow of cold water
into the bottom of the hot tank, since its the pressure of that which
pushes the hot water out of the top of it.

So first job is to identify if its a vented or unvented system.

A vented cylinder is your traditional dome top cylinder like:

http://www.bhl.co.uk/product/ALBION_...CYL_FOAMED_L1B

An unvented one is a more sophisticated looking thing surrounded by far
more ancillary pipework. E.g:

http://www.bhl.co.uk/category/Indire...ented_Cylinder

If its the former, then there *may* be a tap or valve in the feed that
goes to the bottom inlet of the cylinder. Turning that off should
interrupt the flow of water from it. (although if its a traditional gate
valve like [1] then it may still let a dribble past - leaver ball valves
[2] usually work better). If there is no tap, then you will need to
either stop the main header tank (loft) refilling (tap feeding the ball
cock if there is one, or tie the ball cock "up" to a splint of wood laid
over the top of the tank), and let that drain down, or better, plug its
outlet with a rubber bung (or stuff a large carrot into the outlet!).

If its a unvented system, then there should be a valve before the safety
valve assembly on the inlet:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...ented_cylinder

Turn that off, and run the hot tap - a few litres (i.e. less than 10
typically) will be able to flow as the expansion vessel pushes out its
volume of water.




[1] http://www.bhl.co.uk/product/KUTERLI...ASS_GATE_VALVE

[2] http://www.bhl.co.uk/product/_CENTER...ASS_BALL_VALVE



--
Cheers,

John.

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