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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#41
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Treating MDF
"fred" wrote in message ... On Wednesday, February 13, 2013 6:34:49 PM UTC, Rod Speed wrote: fred wrote Rod Speed wrote Melamine film is paper thin. This stuff isnt. Its not as thick as the much thicker laminex, but is thicker than paper, about as thick as the thinnest card stock. Well given that you had problems measuring the overall thickness of the board (first 15mm?? Then 18mm ?? and now 16mm?? The original 15mm was a guess, not a measurement. The second one was a guess too, just noticed it was more than 15. I'm astonished you can measure the thickness of the laminate. Even you should be able to measure the actual thickness of the whole thing. No way would it equal 1.5mm per face. Even if it was a natural wood veneer it would not be 1.5mm thick, and the thickest, and far from being very common, Formica is only 1.1mm thick. What you have is 18mm board plain and simple. I've just measured it again, and its actually 16mm. See above See above. The o.p. mentioned spanning 1m with 15mm board and claimed this would carry a load of dishes. The OP never said anything about dishes, Quote ' Most kitchen unit shelves are 15mm chip, and an unsupported span of a metre is pretty normal. Mine are stacked with crockery, which is a hell ' That's not the OP, that's someone else. I've no intention of arguing semantics ( http://www.thefreedictionary.com/semantics) with you. You just did. This now seems to have changed to 18mm board spanning 580mm. Quite do-able. Nope, its actually 16mm spanning 580mm. When you're in a hole stop digging. You're one in the hole with your claim about mine being 18mm and that the OP said anything about dishes. You're nit picking my dear boy. You never could bull**** your way out of a wet paper bag, cheap girl. reams of your puerile **** any 2 year old could leave for dead flushed where it belongs |
#42
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Treating MDF
In message , Chris Holford
writes In article , Tim Watts writes On Tuesday 12 February 2013 08:51 wrote in uk.d-i- y: I'm about to start a project which basically involves building lots of MDF boxes then stacking them in a brick-like fashion to make a wall-to-wall bookshelf. snip What's the best way to treat the "invisible" edges? I'm thinking both in terms of the product and the method - snip A couple of people have suggested diluted PVA to seal the edges, which would certainly be cheap but would it work? (The shelves will be going into a bedroom so I don't expect them to be damp.) I would not - the water content will swell the MDF. Perhaps a diluted polyurethane varnish, spirit based? What about clear cellulose dope? Wood hardener should seal the edges MDF. -- Ian |
#43
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Treating MDF
On 13/02/2013 17:42, Andy Champ wrote:
On 13/02/2013 14:00, Mark Rogers wrote: Alternatively I could switch to 25mm ply, without doubling anything up, and look at the ply as being the "mortar" between the brick-shaped "holes" - I need to try and mock this up 25mm ply _would_ carry car engines. The bottom of my boat is 12mm, and feels solid as rock (though it does have interesting curves), but that's mostly to get the weight up to the class limit. Most are 6mm, and people run about on them. Unlike chipboard it doesn't creep with age. (Don't know whether or not MDF does) Andy Use railway sleepers and be done with it |
#44
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Treating MDF
On Thursday, February 14, 2013 10:26:33 AM UTC, stuart noble wrote:
Use railway sleepers and be done with it :-) -- Mark |
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