Can anyone tell me a way to shorten a diswasher inlet hose (same as a
washing machine inlet hose)? I have one that is about 3m long, but I want
it to be less than 1m long.

After I chop 2m out of the hose, I'm wondering if a 3" length of 15mm
copper pipe would be a push-fit into the hose (or near-enough so that a
couple of jubileee clips could be used to make the joins watertight.


Thanks,

PK

On 20/12/2012 22:58, Phil K wrote:
Can anyone tell me a way to shorten a diswasher inlet hose (same as a
washing machine inlet hose)? I have one that is about 3m long, but I want
it to be less than 1m long.

After I chop 2m out of the hose, I'm wondering if a 3" length of 15mm
copper pipe would be a push-fit into the hose (or near-enough so that a
couple of jubileee clips could be used to make the joins watertight.


Thanks,

PK


My recollection is that 15 mm is normally too big and 10 mm too small.
These hoses are generally reinforced so won't "stretch" when softened in
boiling water in the way garden hose will.

If you can find a suitable undersized coupling tube you can enlarge it
by winding pvc electrical tape on it until it is a good fit, then use
jubilee clips as you suggest.

If you feel brave, tackle one of the ends to free up the coupler, then
push this in the cut down hose and secure with jubilee clip. The risk
there is that the end fittings are usually plastic and there is a risk
of them breaking either as you disassemble (angle grinder) or when you
tighten the jubilee clip.

Because I don't throw anything away I have a collection of hoses off
used machines which are usually about 1.5 metres long. IME that's about
the minimum you want if you need to pull the machine out while it is
connected. Perhaps you can find a local squirrel?

newshound wrote:
On 20/12/2012 22:58, Phil K wrote:
Can anyone tell me a way to shorten a diswasher inlet hose (same as a
washing machine inlet hose)? I have one that is about 3m long, but I want
it to be less than 1m long.

After I chop 2m out of the hose, I'm wondering if a 3" length of 15mm
copper pipe would be a push-fit into the hose (or near-enough so that a
couple of jubileee clips could be used to make the joins watertight.


Thanks,

PK


My recollection is that 15 mm is normally too big and 10 mm too small.
These hoses are generally reinforced so won't "stretch" when softened in
boiling water in the way garden hose will.

If you can find a suitable undersized coupling tube you can enlarge it
by winding pvc electrical tape on it until it is a good fit, then use
jubilee clips as you suggest.

If you feel brave, tackle one of the ends to free up the coupler, then
push this in the cut down hose and secure with jubilee clip. The risk
there is that the end fittings are usually plastic and there is a risk
of them breaking either as you disassemble (angle grinder) or when you
tighten the jubilee clip.

Because I don't throw anything away I have a collection of hoses off
used machines which are usually about 1.5 metres long. IME that's about
the minimum you want if you need to pull the machine out while it is
connected. Perhaps you can find a local squirrel?

Why should you wan to? just roll a loop behind the machine.

On Fri, 21 Dec 2012 10:20:08 +1100, F Murtz wrote:

I have one that is about 3m long, but I want it to be less than 1m
long.
Because I don't throw anything away I have a collection of hoses off
used machines which are usually about 1.5 metres long. IME that's
about the minimum you want if you need to pull the machine out while
it is connected. Perhaps you can find a local squirrel?

Agreed 1 m hose with a 600 mm deep work top doesn't allow the machine to
come forward far enough to get access behind.

Why should you wan to? just roll a loop behind the machine.

"losing" 3 m of hose might take up too much room behind the machine
stopping it going back properly.

Hoses are cheap enough, couple of quid just buy a a shorter one. It's not
worth the faffing about or risk of a joint blowing a part. Machine valves
can be a bit vicious and the hydraulic shocks could ease the hose off a
flat bit of copper tube.

--
Cheers
Dave.

Phil K wrote:
Can anyone tell me a way to shorten a diswasher inlet hose (same as a
washing machine inlet hose)? I have one that is about 3m long, but I want
it to be less than 1m long.

After I chop 2m out of the hose, I'm wondering if a 3" length of 15mm
copper pipe would be a push-fit into the hose (or near-enough so that a
couple of jubileee clips could be used to make the joins watertight.


Thanks,

PK

Don't even think about it. You'll never produce a join as secure as the
crimped ones. Just buy a shorter one, it's not as if they're expensive and
they're *vastly* cheaper than dealing with the consequences of a flood.

Tim

On Thu, 20 Dec 2012 23:12:24 +0000, newshound wrote:

On 20/12/2012 22:58, Phil K wrote:
Can anyone tell me a way to shorten a diswasher inlet hose (same as a
washing machine inlet hose)? I have one that is about 3m long, but I want
it to be less than 1m long.

After I chop 2m out of the hose, I'm wondering if a 3" length of 15mm
copper pipe would be a push-fit into the hose (or near-enough so that a
couple of jubileee clips could be used to make the joins watertight.


My recollection is that 15 mm is normally too big and 10 mm too small.
These hoses are generally reinforced so won't "stretch" when softened in
boiling water in the way garden hose will.

Last one I did this to (either a Screwfix or Toolstation hose) it was spot on
10mm bore, softened up ok with a dunk in hot water and when lubricated with a
dab of washing up liquid it fitted onto a 10mm spigot. Jubilee clip holds it
in place.

This isn't used on a washing machine but it regularly copes with a pressure of
around 2 bar and water above normal domestic hot water temperatures.


--

The Other Mike wrote:
On Thu, 20 Dec 2012 23:12:24 +0000, newshound wrote:

On 20/12/2012 22:58, Phil K wrote:
Can anyone tell me a way to shorten a diswasher inlet hose (same as a
washing machine inlet hose)? I have one that is about 3m long, but I want
it to be less than 1m long.

After I chop 2m out of the hose, I'm wondering if a 3" length of 15mm
copper pipe would be a push-fit into the hose (or near-enough so that a
couple of jubileee clips could be used to make the joins watertight.


My recollection is that 15 mm is normally too big and 10 mm too small.
These hoses are generally reinforced so won't "stretch" when softened in
boiling water in the way garden hose will.

Last one I did this to (either a Screwfix or Toolstation hose) it was spot on
10mm bore, softened up ok with a dunk in hot water and when lubricated with a
dab of washing up liquid it fitted onto a 10mm spigot. Jubilee clip holds it
in place.

This isn't used on a washing machine but it regularly copes with a pressure of
around 2 bar and water above normal domestic hot water temperatures.


--

I think most of the time you can get away with bodging a connection for
temporary or outdoor use but I certainly wouldn't be happy using a
connection like that for a fixed internal appliance, particularly one that
uses solenoids for turning the water on and off.

Tim

Tim+ wrote in
news:195907318377767977.697706timdownie2003-nospampleaseyahoo.co.uk@reade
r80.eternal-september.org:

Don't even think about it. You'll never produce a join as secure as
the crimped ones. Just buy a shorter one, it's not as if they're
expensive and they're *vastly* cheaper than dealing with the
consequences of a flood.

Thanks to all for the suggestions. I guess I'll probably buy a 1.5m one
then (that being the shortest size I've found). Why do I want one that's as
short as practically possible? Because the heater in my dishwasher has
burned out (just after the warranty expired). So I've connected it to the
hot DHW pipe coming from my combi. Now I pay less for heating the water!
It's a small 'tabletop' dishwasher that doesn't use much water. I want to
reduce the overall pipework length between the machine and the boiler, so
that when the DW fills up, the water is as hot as possible, and not
'diluted' with too much cold water that was sitting in the feed pipe.

PK.

On Sunday, 23 December 2012 01:27:16 UTC, Phil K wrote:
the heater in my dishwasher has

burned out (just after the warranty expired). So I've connected it to the

hot DHW pipe coming from my combi. Now I pay less for heating the water!

The obvious question is: are you sure the water reaching the DW gets anywhere near up to temperature before it stops filling?

On Sat, 22 Dec 2012 19:51:29 -0800 (PST), Arty Effem wrote:

the heater in my dishwasher has burned out (just after the warranty
expired). So I've connected it to the hot DHW pipe coming from my
combi. Now I pay less for heating the water!

Probably but you won't be heating it to the temp the DW would normally
use.

The obvious question is: are you sure the water reaching the DW gets
anywhere near up to temperature before it stops filling?

Debateable a small dishwasher isn't going to take much water. Also
dishwashers normally heat the water to well above that that would be safe
from a tap. I think the OP would be far better off getting and fitting a
replacement heater for the dishwasher.

--
Cheers
Dave.

"Dave Liquorice" wrote in
ll.co.uk:

Debateable a small dishwasher isn't going to take much water. Also
dishwashers normally heat the water to well above that that would be
safe from a tap. I think the OP would be far better off getting and
fitting a replacement heater for the dishwasher.


Why so? If I replaced the heater element, it would cost me, not only to
install it, but I would be heating the water with elecricity, which costs
more than gas. Furthermore, it wou;d probably burn out again, withing 12
months (as it has done twoce before).

When the DW's heater was working, it seemed to heat the water up way too
hot. It used to warp any platic items. That's another reason why I am
happier with it the way it is now.

When the DW's heater failed, the DW would keep ending it's cycle as soon as
it's sensor determined that the water was not warming up. Now that I am
feeding it hottish water from the DHW pipework, it completes its cycle and
my dishes are properly cleaned - AND no plastic items get warped!

PK

On 23/12/2012 17:28, Phil K wrote:
Why so? If I replaced the heater element, it would cost me, not only to
install it, but I would be heating the water with elecricity, which costs
more than gas. Furthermore, it wou;d probably burn out again, withing 12
months (as it has done twoce before).

When the DW's heater was working, it seemed to heat the water up way too
hot. It used to warp any platic items. That's another reason why I am
happier with it the way it is now.

When the DW's heater failed, the DW would keep ending it's cycle as soon as
it's sensor determined that the water was not warming up. Now that I am
feeding it hottish water from the DHW pipework, it completes its cycle and
my dishes are properly cleaned - AND no plastic items get warped!

That high temperature may have been bad for a few items, but it is the
major way in which it kills all the dangerous things lurking on your
dirty plates.

Andy

Phil K wrote:
"Dave Liquorice" wrote in
ll.co.uk:

Debateable a small dishwasher isn't going to take much water. Also
dishwashers normally heat the water to well above that that would be
safe from a tap. I think the OP would be far better off getting and
fitting a replacement heater for the dishwasher.


Why so? If I replaced the heater element, it would cost me, not only to
install it, but I would be heating the water with elecricity, which costs
more than gas. Furthermore, it wou;d probably burn out again, withing 12
months (as it has done twoce before).

When the DW's heater was working, it seemed to heat the water up way too
hot. It used to warp any platic items. That's another reason why I am
happier with it the way it is now.

Maybe you have a thermostat problem rather than a heater element problem?

Tim

Andy Champ wrote in
. uk:

That high temperature may have been bad for a few items, but it is the
major way in which it kills all the dangerous things lurking on your
dirty plates.

That may be so, but I think it's an expensive form of overkill. I was
washing up with cold water, by hand, for years, and I wasn't worried about
it. After all, we have flouride in the water.

PK

Tim+ wrote in
news:1911003502377994454.253749timdownie2003-
:

Maybe you have a thermostat problem rather than a heater element problem?

I did wonder about that... but with the current setup, I don;t have to
worry about the thermostat or the heater, or the cost of heating the water
with electricity.

Thanks,

PK

On 24/12/2012 08:50, Huge wrote:
On 2012-12-23, Phil K wrote:
Andy Champ wrote in
. uk:

That high temperature may have been bad for a few items, but it is the
major way in which it kills all the dangerous things lurking on your
dirty plates.

That may be so, but I think it's an expensive form of overkill. I was
washing up with cold water, by hand, for years, and I wasn't worried about
it. After all, we have flouride in the water.

Skipping lightly over the misspelling of "fluoride", what on earth does that
have to do with the price of fish/ It's the chlorine that kills bugs, and
washing up in cold water is disgusting.


And the fluoride that kills us!

(Whilst I am deeply sceptical over the fluoridation of water, especially
due to the possible impact on the endocrine system, that was intended as
a response with a bit of humour rather than to be taken too literally. I
am not of the "fluoride is an industrial waste product therefore will
poison us" brigade.)

--
Rod