Our Whirlpool washing machine has been slowly filling when turned off.
Obviously one of the solenoid valves isn't sealing properly, so by
shutting off one feed then the other it turns out to be the hot one.

It's easy to replace but what puzzles me is that a new hot valve is
around £36 but the cold valve is only half that. Why? The only
difference is red plastic instead of blue, and a slightly different
electrical connector socket (so I can't fit a cold one).

I can't believe it has to be "tougher" to withstand domestic hot water,
and the cold valve works harder because that handles the rinse cycles too.

I haven't checked other brands to see if their inlet valves are that
different in price.

--
Reentrant.

On Dec 15, 12:50*pm, Reentrant wrote:
Our Whirlpool washing machine has been slowly filling when turned off.
Obviously one of the solenoid valves isn't sealing properly, so by
shutting off one feed then the other it turns out to be the hot one.

It's easy to replace but what puzzles me is that a new hot valve is
around £36 but the cold valve is only half that. Why? The only
difference is red plastic instead of blue, and a slightly different
electrical connector socket (so I can't fit a cold one).

I can't believe it has to be "tougher" to withstand domestic hot water,
and the cold valve works harder because that handles the rinse cycles too..

I haven't checked other brands to see if their inlet valves are that
different in price.

--
Reentrant.

Can't think it'd be that different just based on temperature rating...

Disconnect the hot & have cold fill only?

"Phil" wrote in message
...
On Dec 15, 12:50 pm, Reentrant wrote:
Our Whirlpool washing machine has been slowly filling when turned off.
Obviously one of the solenoid valves isn't sealing properly, so by
shutting off one feed then the other it turns out to be the hot one.

It's easy to replace but what puzzles me is that a new hot valve is
around £36 but the cold valve is only half that. Why? The only
difference is red plastic instead of blue, and a slightly different
electrical connector socket (so I can't fit a cold one).

I can't believe it has to be "tougher" to withstand domestic hot water,
and the cold valve works harder because that handles the rinse cycles too.

I haven't checked other brands to see if their inlet valves are that
different in price.

--
Reentrant.

Can't think it'd be that different just based on temperature rating...

Disconnect the hot & have cold fill only?

My nearly new siemens only has cold fill so I would go with that idea

On 15/12/2010 13:34, TMC wrote:

"Phil" wrote in message
...
On Dec 15, 12:50 pm, Reentrant wrote:
Our Whirlpool washing machine has been slowly filling when turned off.
Obviously one of the solenoid valves isn't sealing properly, so by
shutting off one feed then the other it turns out to be the hot one.

It's easy to replace but what puzzles me is that a new hot valve is
around £36 but the cold valve is only half that. Why? The only
difference is red plastic instead of blue, and a slightly different
electrical connector socket (so I can't fit a cold one).

I can't believe it has to be "tougher" to withstand domestic hot water,
and the cold valve works harder because that handles the rinse cycles
too.

I haven't checked other brands to see if their inlet valves are that
different in price.

--
Reentrant.

Can't think it'd be that different just based on temperature rating...

Disconnect the hot & have cold fill only?

My nearly new siemens only has cold fill so I would go with that idea

Will do if we need to do a load before the new part arrives (what with
Christmas post and the big freeze coming it could take a while). I'm
pertty sure it will work without a hot supply.

I read recently that all current washing machines on the market are
cold-fill only.

--
Reentrant

On Dec 15, 12:50*pm, Reentrant wrote:
Our Whirlpool washing machine has been slowly filling when turned off.
Obviously one of the solenoid valves isn't sealing properly, so by
shutting off one feed then the other it turns out to be the hot one.

It's easy to replace but what puzzles me is that a new hot valve is
around £36 but the cold valve is only half that. Why? The only
difference is red plastic instead of blue, and a slightly different
electrical connector socket (so I can't fit a cold one).

I can't believe it has to be "tougher" to withstand domestic hot water,
and the cold valve works harder because that handles the rinse cycles too..

I haven't checked other brands to see if their inlet valves are that
different in price.

--
Reentrant.

You did't need a new valve, this is a common problem. If the valve is
dismantled you will find that a tiny hole in the diaphragm is blocked
with a bit of crap. Just needs poking clear with a pin. Job done.

Will do if we need to do a load before the new part arrives (what with
Christmas post and the big freeze coming it could take a while). I'm
pertty sure it will work without a hot supply.


I agree most do but I have met a machine where only water from the hot
fill entered the soap dispenser. If yours is like that you could use an
extra hose and a Y pieces such as
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Plum.../sd2705/p81426
or - especially if it's a temporary thing - just use a detergent you put
in the drum.
--
Robin
PM may be sent to rbw0{at}hotmail{dot}com

On 15/12/2010 14:28, harry wrote:
On Dec 15, 12:50 pm, wrote:
Our Whirlpool washing machine has been slowly filling when turned off.
Obviously one of the solenoid valves isn't sealing properly, so by
shutting off one feed then the other it turns out to be the hot one.

It's easy to replace but what puzzles me is that a new hot valve is
around £36 but the cold valve is only half that. Why? The only
difference is red plastic instead of blue, and a slightly different
electrical connector socket (so I can't fit a cold one).

I can't believe it has to be "tougher" to withstand domestic hot water,
and the cold valve works harder because that handles the rinse cycles too.

I haven't checked other brands to see if their inlet valves are that
different in price.

--
Reentrant.

You did't need a new valve, this is a common problem. If the valve is
dismantled you will find that a tiny hole in the diaphragm is blocked
with a bit of crap. Just needs poking clear with a pin. Job done.

I'm sure you're right - we are in a very hard water area - but I
couldn't see how to open up the valve. It needs five nylon legs
compressed simultaneously - they must snap in easily but are tricky to
get at to reverse the process. Also there's a crimped metal band which
would be hard to get back tightly.
I'll have a go anyway ...

FWIW this Whirpool has much way better than its Hotpoint and Zanussi
predecessors. It's over six years old and is still on its original
brushes. This is the first problem and it's not a showstopper.

--
Reentrant

On Dec 15, 12:50*pm, Reentrant wrote:
Our Whirlpool washing machine has been slowly filling when turned off.
Obviously one of the solenoid valves isn't sealing properly, so by
shutting off one feed then the other it turns out to be the hot one.

It's easy to replace but what puzzles me is that a new hot valve is
around £36 but the cold valve is only half that. Why? The only
difference is red plastic instead of blue, and a slightly different
electrical connector socket (so I can't fit a cold one).

I can't believe it has to be "tougher" to withstand domestic hot water,
and the cold valve works harder because that handles the rinse cycles too..

I haven't checked other brands to see if their inlet valves are that
different in price.


You dont need a new solenoid, the machine should work fine if you
simply turn the hot feed off at the wall. You'd then need to use a
simple workaround on the 95C cycle: set machine to 60C, and once
filled change to a 90C wash. If you don't boil wash often this should
be fine.


NT

On Dec 16, 3:28 am, harry wrote:
On Dec 15, 12:50 pm, Reentrant wrote:



Our Whirlpool washing machine has been slowly filling when turned off.
Obviously one of the solenoid valves isn't sealing properly, so by
shutting off one feed then the other it turns out to be the hot one.

It's easy to replace but what puzzles me is that a new hot valve is
around £36 but the cold valve is only half that. Why? The only
difference is red plastic instead of blue, and a slightly different
electrical connector socket (so I can't fit a cold one).

I can't believe it has to be "tougher" to withstand domestic hot water,
and the cold valve works harder because that handles the rinse cycles too.

I haven't checked other brands to see if their inlet valves are that
different in price.

--
Reentrant.

You did't need a new valve, this is a common problem. If the valve is
dismantled you will find that a tiny hole in the diaphragm is blocked
with a bit of crap. Just needs poking clear with a pin. Job done.

I once bought a new diaphagm - it wasn't expensive. However the valve
was easy to take apart. I always turn the water off at the wall when
washing is finished.I know if the wall tap is not turned off because
it drips.This is a feature!

On 15/12/2010 21:38, Tabby wrote:
On Dec 15, 12:50 pm, wrote:
Our Whirlpool washing machine has been slowly filling when turned off.
Obviously one of the solenoid valves isn't sealing properly, so by
shutting off one feed then the other it turns out to be the hot one.


You dont need a new solenoid, the machine should work fine if you
simply turn the hot feed off at the wall.

I'd not accept that as a solution, and more importantly, SWMBO certainly
wouldn't.

It would pass muster only as a temp workaround till the new part arrived.

The general idea is that the machine needs to 'work properly'. At Lowe
Towers, that does not require grubbing around on all fours and emptying
the cupboard under the sink to gain access to the shut-off valves every
time we do a washing!

--
Ron

On Dec 15, 4:54*pm, Reentrant wrote:
On 15/12/2010 14:28, harry wrote:





On Dec 15, 12:50 pm, *wrote:
Our Whirlpool washing machine has been slowly filling when turned off.
Obviously one of the solenoid valves isn't sealing properly, so by
shutting off one feed then the other it turns out to be the hot one.

It's easy to replace but what puzzles me is that a new hot valve is
around 36 but the cold valve is only half that. Why? The only
difference is red plastic instead of blue, and a slightly different
electrical connector socket (so I can't fit a cold one).

I can't believe it has to be "tougher" to withstand domestic hot water,
and the cold valve works harder because that handles the rinse cycles too.

I haven't checked other brands to see if their inlet valves are that
different in price.

--
Reentrant.

You did't need a new valve, this is a common problem. *If the valve is
dismantled you will find that a tiny hole in the diaphragm is blocked
with a bit of crap. *Just needs poking clear with a pin. Job done.

I'm sure you're right - we are in a very hard water area - but I
couldn't see how to open up the valve. It needs five nylon legs
compressed simultaneously - they must snap in easily but are tricky to
get at to reverse the process. Also there's a crimped metal band which
would be hard to get back tightly.
I'll have a go anyway ...

FWIW this Whirpool has much way better than its Hotpoint and Zanussi
predecessors. It's over six years old and is still on its original
brushes. This is the first problem and it's not a showstopper.

--
Reentrant- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Ah. A plot to force you to buy overpriced valves. Typical. Get one
from somewhere else if all else fails. (Scrapyard?)
they all do the same job. Just needs a bracket to fix it.

On Dec 15, 4:54*pm, Reentrant wrote:
On 15/12/2010 14:28, harry wrote:





On Dec 15, 12:50 pm, *wrote:
Our Whirlpool washing machine has been slowly filling when turned off.
Obviously one of the solenoid valves isn't sealing properly, so by
shutting off one feed then the other it turns out to be the hot one.

It's easy to replace but what puzzles me is that a new hot valve is
around 36 but the cold valve is only half that. Why? The only
difference is red plastic instead of blue, and a slightly different
electrical connector socket (so I can't fit a cold one).

I can't believe it has to be "tougher" to withstand domestic hot water,
and the cold valve works harder because that handles the rinse cycles too.

I haven't checked other brands to see if their inlet valves are that
different in price.

--
Reentrant.

You did't need a new valve, this is a common problem. *If the valve is
dismantled you will find that a tiny hole in the diaphragm is blocked
with a bit of crap. *Just needs poking clear with a pin. Job done.

I'm sure you're right - we are in a very hard water area - but I
couldn't see how to open up the valve. It needs five nylon legs
compressed simultaneously - they must snap in easily but are tricky to
get at to reverse the process. Also there's a crimped metal band which
would be hard to get back tightly.
I'll have a go anyway ...

FWIW this Whirpool has much way better than its Hotpoint and Zanussi
predecessors. It's over six years old and is still on its original
brushes. This is the first problem and it's not a showstopper.

--
Reentrant- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

BTW, there are two holes in the diaphragm.. The centre one opens the
valve (Using the iron solenoid slug). The one near the edge closes it.

On Dec 15, 12:50*pm, Reentrant wrote:
Our Whirlpool washing machine has been slowly filling when turned off.
Obviously one of the solenoid valves isn't sealing properly, so by
shutting off one feed then the other it turns out to be the hot one.

It's easy to replace but what puzzles me is that a new hot valve is
around £36 but the cold valve is only half that. Why? The only
difference is red plastic instead of blue, and a slightly different
electrical connector socket (so I can't fit a cold one).

I can't believe it has to be "tougher" to withstand domestic hot water,
and the cold valve works harder because that handles the rinse cycles too..

I haven't checked other brands to see if their inlet valves are that
different in price.

--
Reentrant.

Next time you buy a new machine, get a coldwater only one. The high
pressure cold valve doesn't have the same problems. The low pressure
hot valves can't blow the crap clear as well.

On Dec 16, 8:02*am, Ron Lowe wrote:
On 15/12/2010 21:38, Tabby wrote:

On Dec 15, 12:50 pm, *wrote:
Our Whirlpool washing machine has been slowly filling when turned off.
Obviously one of the solenoid valves isn't sealing properly, so by
shutting off one feed then the other it turns out to be the hot one.
You dont need a new solenoid, the machine should work fine if you
simply turn the hot feed off at the wall.

I'd not accept that as a solution, and more importantly, SWMBO certainly
wouldn't.

It would pass muster only as a temp workaround till the new part arrived.

The general idea is that the machine needs to 'work properly'. * At Lowe
Towers, that does not require grubbing around on all fours and emptying
the cupboard under the sink to gain access to the shut-off valves every
time we do a washing!

I think you must have misunderstood, there's none of that involved.


NT