All the plastering techniques I've read about essentially say:
plaster, wait a moment, plaster, wait a moment, plaster. Is there an
alternative technique that takes account of the fact that I'm human
and absolutely utterly need to go to sleep for at least eight hours
between coats?

JGH,
stuggling to stay awake long enough to find the strength to pour
myself a cup of tea.

jgharston wrote:

All the plastering techniques I've read about essentially say:
plaster, wait a moment, plaster, wait a moment, plaster. Is there an
alternative technique that takes account of the fact that I'm human
and absolutely utterly need to go to sleep for at least eight hours
between coats?

JGH,
stuggling to stay awake long enough to find the strength to pour
myself a cup of tea.

Do less walls in one go?

On the first and only room I have fully skimmed, it took me 4 days - one per
wall.

Partly because I did not totally know what I was doing and partly because in
the 6 hour slot I had, that was all I could manage including cleaning up.

I did other things in the bits of spare time.

--
Tim Watts Personal Blog: http://www.dionic.net/tim/

"History will be kind to me for I intend to write it."

Tim Watts wrote:
Do less walls in one go?

Less walls or fewer walls?

Less walls - only do halfway up, then come back in a couple of days
and do the other half? How do I get them to join evenly?

Fewer walls - I only do one wall at a time anyway. Partially so that
when I do the joining wall there's a solid edge to work to and I'm not
trowelling out lumps of fresh plaster, but mainly because I'm so
knackered by the time I've done one coat of one wall I can't manage to
do any more.

This current wall is going to be tiled anyway, so....

JGH

jgharston wrote:

Tim Watts wrote:
Do less walls in one go?

Less walls or fewer walls?

Less walls - only do halfway up, then come back in a couple of days
and do the other half?

That would be "less wall". But fewer, if you wanted to be clear

How do I get them to join evenly?

Fewer walls - I only do one wall at a time anyway. Partially so that
when I do the joining wall there's a solid edge to work to and I'm not
trowelling out lumps of fresh plaster, but mainly because I'm so
knackered by the time I've done one coat of one wall I can't manage to
do any more.

Yes - my experience too.

Are these big walls?


This current wall is going to be tiled anyway, so....

It's a good idea not to put a polish on those - I have seen pro plasterers
actually go over with a sponge to rough up the surface, after making sure it
is flat and in the right plane.


--
Tim Watts Personal Blog: http://www.dionic.net/tim/

"History will be kind to me for I intend to write it."

On Nov 29, 1:02 pm, Tim Watts wrote:
jgharston wrote:
Tim Watts wrote:
Do less walls in one go?

Less walls or fewer walls?

Less walls - only do halfway up, then come back in a couple of days
and do the other half?

That would be "less wall". But fewer, if you wanted to be clear

How do I get them to join evenly?

Fewer walls - I only do one wall at a time anyway. Partially so that
when I do the joining wall there's a solid edge to work to and I'm not
trowelling out lumps of fresh plaster, but mainly because I'm so
knackered by the time I've done one coat of one wall I can't manage to
do any more.

Yes - my experience too.

Are these big walls?

This current wall is going to be tiled anyway, so....

It's a good idea not to put a polish on those - I have seen pro plasterers
actually go over with a sponge to rough up the surface, after making sure it
is flat and in the right plane.


is polishing ever appropriate? emusion won't easily stick to it, nor
tile adhesive - is it best for wallpaper (removal of, later) or
summat?

Jim K

Tim Watts wrote:
Are these big walls?

This one here and the one to the left out of shot:
http://pics.mdfs.net/2012/11/121103.htm

'twill have a bath'n'shower up against that wall, tiled to above head
height.

JGH

Huge wrote:

On 2012-11-28, jgharston wrote:
All the plastering techniques I've read about essentially say:
plaster, wait a moment, plaster, wait a moment, plaster. Is there an
alternative technique that takes account of the fact that I'm human
and absolutely utterly need to go to sleep for at least eight hours
between coats?

I gave up and got a man in.



Not unreasonable. So did I after the first room.

However, I was glad I tried - because I was able to become "good enough" for
all those odd jobs like window reveals after fitting new windows and other
patching up.

--
Tim Watts Personal Blog: http://www.dionic.net/tim/

"She got her looks from her father. He's a plastic surgeon."

jgharston wrote:

Tim Watts wrote:
Are these big walls?

This one here and the one to the left out of shot:
http://pics.mdfs.net/2012/11/121103.htm

'twill have a bath'n'shower up against that wall, tiled to above head
height.

JGH

Looks about 2.5m wide?

That would be about the same as one of my walls in the room I did.

I did have to race to get the 1st coat on. I did get some breathing space on
the second coat - though possibly I left it a little too long. With that and
cleaning up I think it took me about 5 hours end to end including tools out
and tools away - I had to do the school run so doing 2 walls was not
possible.

The real plasterers who I hired for the rest of the place did a room twice
the size in one go - straight round and round again for the second coat.
Ceiling was a seperate job. I admired their fitness.


--
Tim Watts Personal Blog: http://www.dionic.net/tim/

"She got her looks from her father. He's a plastic surgeon."

jgharston wrote:
All the plastering techniques I've read about essentially say:
plaster, wait a moment, plaster, wait a moment, plaster. Is there an
alternative technique that takes account of the fact that I'm human
and absolutely utterly need to go to sleep for at least eight hours
between coats?

The problems most people have when plastering a

1) trying to get it smooth right away - forget it, just get the wall covered
as quickly as possible - a 10ft by 8ft wall should take one person no longer
than 20 minutes to plaster 1st coat.

2) mixing the plaster, then realising they're not ready to apply it - walls
not pva'd, tools not to hand, can't find anything to stand on, socket boxes
not in etc etc.

3) mixing it too stiff - it needs to be wet

4) taking too long mixing / overmixing / making too stiff then trying to
water down with mixer - what many people don't realise is that from the
first moment the powder hits the water, they've got about 40 minutes before
it's as hard as a dog's head

5) putting little tiny blobs on the wall and trying to spread them out with
each motion - it needs long sweeping movements and each trowel full should
cover about 4 square feet

so to recap: make sure the wall is ready and you have all tools (clean!) and
equipment ready, mix the plaster to a smooth paste slightly thicker than
custard, and with no lumps, get the wall covered in long movements, starting
at the top and working down to the skirting board, ignoring all lines,
marks, lumps, bumps hollows and everything else, then when it's first
coated, clean off all trowels etc and wait ten minutes before putting a
second thin coat over, this removes 90% of the marks and you shouldn't have
broken a sweat

Phil L wrote:
so to recap: make sure the wall is ready and you have all tools (clean!)

I was taught: clean enough to eat off and buckets clean enough to
drink out of !

starting at the top and working down to the skirting board,

Oo, I was taught bottom up. Maybe that's why my knees are so painful.
Going from a crouch to standing up on each sweep, each time fighting
the temptation to kneel down which would leave me unable to stand up
again without putting all the tools down

Oh, and I take my shoes off. It lets my feet flex and bounce as I go
up and down.

JGH

On Thu, 29 Nov 2012 19:48:27 -0000, Phil L wrote:

what many people don't realise is that from the first moment the powder
hits the water, they've got about 40 minutes before it's as hard as a
dog's head

Or considerably less if the bags aren't still warm from the factory when
delivered. B-)

Might be worth novices having a go with old plaster as the fact it sets
so damn quick means you can't **** about titty vateing it. You just have
to slap it on and roughly smooth it nothing more.

--
Cheers
Dave.

In message , Tim Watts
writes
jgharston wrote:

All the plastering techniques I've read about essentially say:
plaster, wait a moment, plaster, wait a moment, plaster. Is there an
alternative technique that takes account of the fact that I'm human
and absolutely utterly need to go to sleep for at least eight hours
between coats?

JGH,
stuggling to stay awake long enough to find the strength to pour
myself a cup of tea.

Do less walls in one go?

On the first and only room I have fully skimmed, it took me 4 days - one per
wall.

Did you get a blister on your palm just below the 1st finger ?

Did you have to keep going with the raw flesh underneath ?


--
geoff

On 28/11/2012 21:53, jgharston wrote:
All the plastering techniques I've read about essentially say:
plaster, wait a moment, plaster, wait a moment, plaster. Is there an
alternative technique that takes account of the fact that I'm human
and absolutely utterly need to go to sleep for at least eight hours
between coats?

JGH,
stuggling to stay awake long enough to find the strength to pour
myself a cup of tea.

Anyone know if lime plaster is more or less strenuous? I believe it
takes somewhat longer to go off?

--
Rod

jgharston wrote:

Phil L wrote:
so to recap: make sure the wall is ready and you have all tools (clean!)

I was taught: clean enough to eat off and buckets clean enough to
drink out of !

I hadn't fully accepted how important this was when putting up
some coving a long time ago. Loaded the plaster onto the coving,
and it had gone off before I could lift it into place. :-(

Chris
--
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK


Have dancing shoes, will ceilidh.

geoff wrote:

In message , Tim Watts
writes
jgharston wrote:

All the plastering techniques I've read about essentially say:
plaster, wait a moment, plaster, wait a moment, plaster. Is there an
alternative technique that takes account of the fact that I'm human
and absolutely utterly need to go to sleep for at least eight hours
between coats?

JGH,
stuggling to stay awake long enough to find the strength to pour
myself a cup of tea.

Do less walls in one go?

On the first and only room I have fully skimmed, it took me 4 days - one
per wall.

Did you get a blister on your palm just below the 1st finger ?

Did you have to keep going with the raw flesh underneath ?



No - but my arms were falling off afterwards.

As Phil L suggested, probably poor technique. The fact I got an end result
was more than I was hoping - to become an *effecient* plasterer in only a
week would have been a bit much to expect :-o


--
Tim Watts Personal Blog: http://www.dionic.net/tim/

"History will be kind to me for I intend to write it."

On Thursday, November 29, 2012 7:48:27 PM UTC, Phil L wrote:
jgharston wrote:

All the plastering techniques I've read about essentially say:

plaster, wait a moment, plaster, wait a moment, plaster. Is there an

alternative technique that takes account of the fact that I'm human

and absolutely utterly need to go to sleep for at least eight hours

between coats?



The problems most people have when plastering a



1) trying to get it smooth right away - forget it, just get the wall covered

as quickly as possible - a 10ft by 8ft wall should take one person no longer

than 20 minutes to plaster 1st coat.

BUT: it needs to be reasonably flat right away although ridges and dents are OK.
It it is too wavy or undulating, you will have problems with the next coat. Just throwing the stuff at the wall does not work !
The trick is to get a good "sweep". If you try and do it too slow that is when you get variations in the thickness.
Practice with a trowel and a wall and no plaster. If you can get a consistent "ringing" sound on the edge of the trowel you are getting there.




2) mixing the plaster, then realising they're not ready to apply it - walls

not pva'd, tools not to hand, can't find anything to stand on, socket boxes

not in etc etc.

Ha! I seem to do that sort of thing a lot. Got the grout applied and suddenly get in the car and rush off to buy a sponge (well not quite ...)




3) mixing it too stiff - it needs to be wet

Yes.


4) taking too long mixing / overmixing / making too stiff then trying to

water down with mixer - what many people don't realise is that from the

first moment the powder hits the water, they've got about 40 minutes before

it's as hard as a dog's head



5) putting little tiny blobs on the wall and trying to spread them out with

each motion - it needs long sweeping movements and each trowel full should

cover about 4 square feet



so to recap: make sure the wall is ready and you have all tools (clean!) and

equipment ready, mix the plaster to a smooth paste slightly thicker than

custard, and with no lumps, get the wall covered in long movements, starting

at the top and working down to the skirting board, ignoring all lines,

marks, lumps, bumps hollows and everything else, then when it's first

coated, clean off all trowels etc and wait ten minutes before putting a

second thin coat over, this removes 90% of the marks and you shouldn't have

broken a sweat

Yes, but if the first coat is *too* uneven, you will have problems.
The first could should be almost flat on the large scale but need not be smooth.
The time to polish off (not too much though) is when the plaster has set enough to he like modelling clay that can be manipulated.

Also, good lighting is important. If there is light at a shallow angle it shows up imperfections much more. But if you try to work to too high a standard the job can become "impossible".
If you complete a job with flat lighting and then shine a light from a shallow angle you soon realise its not as good as you thought !
Even the pro plastering I had done needed sanding where a wall wash uplighter was going.
I tried on a practice board - a piece of contiboard where I could easily scrape off when dry. I eventually gave up as I cannot spend enough time to be happy with the results.

Simon.

On Thursday, November 29, 2012 11:04:23 PM UTC, polygonum wrote:
On 28/11/2012 21:53, jgharston wrote:

All the plastering techniques I've read about essentially say:

plaster, wait a moment, plaster, wait a moment, plaster. Is there an

alternative technique that takes account of the fact that I'm human

and absolutely utterly need to go to sleep for at least eight hours

between coats?



JGH,

stuggling to stay awake long enough to find the strength to pour

myself a cup of tea.



Anyone know if lime plaster is more or less strenuous? I believe it

takes somewhat longer to go off?


You have a lot longer to smooth it off - I think they used it to train on years ago.
Simon.

On Thursday, November 29, 2012 11:04:23 PM UTC, polygonum wrote:
On 28/11/2012 21:53, jgharston wrote:

All the plastering techniques I've read about essentially say:
plaster, wait a moment, plaster, wait a moment, plaster. Is there an
alternative technique that takes account of the fact that I'm human
and absolutely utterly need to go to sleep for at least eight hours
between coats?

JGH,
stuggling to stay awake long enough to find the strength to pour
myself a cup of tea.

Anyone know if lime plaster is more or less strenuous? I believe it
takes somewhat longer to go off?

Lime takes ages to go off, no rush at all. It does shrink as it dries though, so expect to have to rework it to get a good surface.


NT

On Thursday, November 29, 2012 7:48:27 PM UTC, Phil L wrote:

The problems most people have when plastering a
1) trying to get it smooth right away - forget it, just get the wall covered
as quickly as possible - a 10ft by 8ft wall should take one person no longer
than 20 minutes to plaster 1st coat.
2) mixing the plaster, then realising they're not ready to apply it - walls
not pva'd, tools not to hand, can't find anything to stand on, socket boxes
not in etc etc.
3) mixing it too stiff - it needs to be wet
4) taking too long mixing / overmixing / making too stiff then trying to
water down with mixer - what many people don't realise is that from the
first moment the powder hits the water, they've got about 40 minutes before
it's as hard as a dog's head
5) putting little tiny blobs on the wall and trying to spread them out with
each motion - it needs long sweeping movements and each trowel full should
cover about 4 square feet
so to recap: make sure the wall is ready and you have all tools (clean!) and
equipment ready, mix the plaster to a smooth paste slightly thicker than
custard, and with no lumps, get the wall covered in long movements, starting
at the top and working down to the skirting board, ignoring all lines,
marks, lumps, bumps hollows and everything else, then when it's first
coated, clean off all trowels etc and wait ten minutes before putting a
second thin coat over, this removes 90% of the marks and you shouldn't have
broken a sweat

Mind if that goes on the wiki?


NT

In message , Tim Watts
writes
geoff wrote:

In message , Tim Watts
writes
jgharston wrote:

All the plastering techniques I've read about essentially say:
plaster, wait a moment, plaster, wait a moment, plaster. Is there an
alternative technique that takes account of the fact that I'm human
and absolutely utterly need to go to sleep for at least eight hours
between coats?

JGH,
stuggling to stay awake long enough to find the strength to pour
myself a cup of tea.

Do less walls in one go?

On the first and only room I have fully skimmed, it took me 4 days - one
per wall.

Did you get a blister on your palm just below the 1st finger ?

Did you have to keep going with the raw flesh underneath ?



No - but my arms were falling off afterwards.

As Phil L suggested, probably poor technique. The fact I got an end result
was more than I was hoping - to become an *effecient* plasterer in only a
week would have been a bit much to expect :-o

I plastered the attic once - because it was there, as they say. Could I
go from bricks to smooth finish ???

Not too bad an effort, if I say so myself, but ... never again

--
geoff

On Nov 30, 6:30 pm, wrote:
On Thursday, November 29, 2012 7:48:27 PM UTC, Phil L wrote:
The problems most people have when plastering a
1) trying to get it smooth right away - forget it, just get the wall covered
as quickly as possible - a 10ft by 8ft wall should take one person no longer
than 20 minutes to plaster 1st coat.
2) mixing the plaster, then realising they're not ready to apply it - walls
not pva'd, tools not to hand, can't find anything to stand on, socket boxes
not in etc etc.
3) mixing it too stiff - it needs to be wet
4) taking too long mixing / overmixing / making too stiff then trying to
water down with mixer - what many people don't realise is that from the
first moment the powder hits the water, they've got about 40 minutes before
it's as hard as a dog's head
5) putting little tiny blobs on the wall and trying to spread them out with
each motion - it needs long sweeping movements and each trowel full should
cover about 4 square feet
so to recap: make sure the wall is ready and you have all tools (clean!) and
equipment ready, mix the plaster to a smooth paste slightly thicker than
custard, and with no lumps, get the wall covered in long movements, starting
at the top and working down to the skirting board, ignoring all lines,
marks, lumps, bumps hollows and everything else, then when it's first
coated, clean off all trowels etc and wait ten minutes before putting a
second thin coat over, this removes 90% of the marks and you shouldn't have
broken a sweat

Mind if that goes on the wiki?

NT

but not under "plastering plasterboard"...

Jim K

wrote:
On Thursday, November 29, 2012 7:48:27 PM UTC, Phil L wrote:

The problems most people have when plastering a
1) trying to get it smooth right away - forget it, just get the wall
covered as quickly as possible - a 10ft by 8ft wall should take one
person no longer than 20 minutes to plaster 1st coat.
2) mixing the plaster, then realising they're not ready to apply it
- walls not pva'd, tools not to hand, can't find anything to stand
on, socket boxes not in etc etc.
3) mixing it too stiff - it needs to be wet
4) taking too long mixing / overmixing / making too stiff then
trying to water down with mixer - what many people don't realise is
that from the first moment the powder hits the water, they've got
about 40 minutes before it's as hard as a dog's head
5) putting little tiny blobs on the wall and trying to spread them
out with each motion - it needs long sweeping movements and each
trowel full should cover about 4 square feet
so to recap: make sure the wall is ready and you have all tools
(clean!) and equipment ready, mix the plaster to a smooth paste
slightly thicker than custard, and with no lumps, get the wall
covered in long movements, starting at the top and working down to
the skirting board, ignoring all lines, marks, lumps, bumps hollows
and everything else, then when it's first coated, clean off all
trowels etc and wait ten minutes before putting a second thin coat
over, this removes 90% of the marks and you shouldn't have broken a
sweat

Mind if that goes on the wiki?

Not at all

Jim K wrote:

but not under "plastering plasterboard"...


Why?
It's obvious PB doesn't need PVA'ing, but it needs to be scrimmed up, my
tips were generalisations - make sure the wall is ready

On Dec 1, 5:05 pm, "Phil L" wrote:
Jim K wrote:

but not under "plastering plasterboard"...

Why?
It's obvious PB doesn't need PVA'ing, but it needs to be scrimmed up, my
tips were generalisations - make sure the wall is ready

so you advocate plastering plasterboard with more than 1 coat? bollox
pal

Jim K

Jim K wrote:
Phil L wrote:
Jim K wrote:
but not under "plastering plasterboard"...
Why? ... It's obvious PB doesn't need PVA'ing

Oh? I've always PVA'd plasterboard, probably because I'm PVA'ing the
rough brickwork next to it at the same time.

so you advocate plastering plasterboard with more than 1 coat? bollox

Depends on the plasterboard. Yes, normally it would do in one coat,
but if you have irrelugarites you need to do (an) initial coat(s) to
level up so you can do a full topcoat.

JGH

On Dec 1, 10:36 pm, jgharston wrote:
Jim K wrote:
Phil L wrote:
Jim K wrote:
but not under "plastering plasterboard"...
Why? ... It's obvious PB doesn't need PVA'ing

Oh? I've always PVA'd plasterboard, probably because I'm PVA'ing the
rough brickwork next to it at the same time.

"probably"? definitely - PVA is not required for plasterboard.

so you advocate plastering plasterboard with more than 1 coat? bollox

Depends on the plasterboard. Yes, normally it would do in one coat,
but if you have irrelugarites you need to do (an) initial coat(s) to
level up so you can do a full topcoat.

but in a wiki entry only a fool would advocate starting the job with
the "intention" of doing two coats on plasterboard hence my comment.

As is shurely obvious the time to spend wisely is in the prep of the
surfaces, aligning the plasterboards so there are as few
"irregualrities" as possible, scrimming up etc.......

much like painting the bit you see really is just the icing on the
cake.

Jim K

On 01/12/2012 17:05, Phil L wrote:
Jim K wrote:

but not under "plastering plasterboard"...


Why?
It's obvious PB doesn't need PVA'ing, but it needs to be scrimmed up, my
tips were generalisations - make sure the wall is ready


Is it always necessary to plaster over plasterboard to achieve a decent
finish? Just seems daft to a lay observer (me), when filling and
smoothing the joins might do.

I was hoping to fit some plasterboard backed insulation sheets under the
eaves of an attic room and save on plasterer costs.

Incidentally, what's scrimming? I take it it's not:

http://www.urbandictionary.com/defin...term=scrimming

Hope it's not anyway :-)

Rob

RJH wrote:

Is it always necessary to plaster over plasterboard to achieve a
decent finish? Just seems daft to a lay observer (me), when filling
and smoothing the joins might do.

Filling the joints is acceptable, the (huge) problem arises when, in the
future, someone sticks wallpaper to it, then subsequent stripping is
impossible and destroys the face of the plasterboard


I was hoping to fit some plasterboard backed insulation sheets under
the eaves of an attic room and save on plasterer costs.

Incidentally, what's scrimming? I take it it's not:

http://www.urbandictionary.com/defin...term=scrimming


I didn't look, but scrim is a reinforcing 'bandage' that is usually self
adhesive that sticks over the join in plasterboards to reinfoce the plaster
and prevent cracking

Jim K wrote:
On Dec 1, 5:05 pm, "Phil L" wrote:
Jim K wrote:

but not under "plastering plasterboard"...

Why?
It's obvious PB doesn't need PVA'ing, but it needs to be scrimmed
up, my tips were generalisations - make sure the wall is ready

so you advocate plastering plasterboard with more than 1 coat? bollox
pal


It's up to the individual, but applying two coats makes for an easier and
smoother finish on all surfaces, including plasterboard, and it's the norm
in the trade to give it 2 coats

On Dec 2, 4:14 pm, "Phil L" wrote:

It's up to the individual, but applying two coats makes for an easier and
smoother finish on all surfaces, including plasterboard, and it's the norm
in the trade to give it 2 coats

mmm and charge the customer accordingly for IMO unnecessary work &
materials.

Jim K

Jim K wrote:
On Dec 2, 4:14 pm, "Phil L" wrote:

It's up to the individual, but applying two coats makes for an
easier and smoother finish on all surfaces, including plasterboard,
and it's the norm in the trade to give it 2 coats

mmm and charge the customer accordingly for IMO unnecessary work &
materials.


There's less work involved giving it 2 coats as it takes less time to get it
flat and smooth, this is why everyone does it, yes it may cost the customer
an extra fiver in plaster, but it's saved them half a day's labour charges

Jim K wrote:
As is shurely obvious the time to spend wisely is in the prep of
the surfaces, aligning the plasterboards so there are as few
"irregualrities" as possible, scrimming up etc.......

http://pics.mdfs.net/2012/11/121103.htm has a gap before a join to a
sloping roof, it would have been a huge job getting the new bit of
sloping plasterboard lined up with the existing slope, so I made it as
good as possible, then put a first wedge-shaped coat along the bottom
four inches, then an hour later a second coat which went the full
width to meet the existing ceiling.

Now, how do I replaster the ceiling and wall that have been
wallpapered directly onto bare board...? Grr...

JGH

On 02/12/2012 12:48, RJH wrote:
On 01/12/2012 17:05, Phil L wrote:
Jim K wrote:

but not under "plastering plasterboard"...


Why?
It's obvious PB doesn't need PVA'ing, but it needs to be scrimmed up, my
tips were generalisations - make sure the wall is ready


Is it always necessary to plaster over plasterboard to achieve a decent
finish? Just seems daft to a lay observer (me), when filling and
smoothing the joins might do.

I was hoping to fit some plasterboard backed insulation sheets under the
eaves of an attic room and save on plasterer costs.

Incidentally, what's scrimming? I take it it's not:

http://www.urbandictionary.com/defin...term=scrimming

Hope it's not anyway :-)

Rob



Urban dictionary is interesting, amusing, disgusting, and lots else. But
I keep wondering whether there are post-heavy drinking parties where
people compete to outdo each other in unbelievability of new entries.
Heaven knows what the prize would be... :-)

--
Rod

On Dec 2, 4:48 pm, "Phil L" wrote:
Jim K wrote:
On Dec 2, 4:14 pm, "Phil L" wrote:

It's up to the individual, but applying two coats makes for an
easier and smoother finish on all surfaces, including plasterboard,
and it's the norm in the trade to give it 2 coats

mmm and charge the customer accordingly for IMO unnecessary work &
materials.

There's less work involved giving it 2 coats as it takes less time to get it
flat and smooth, this is why everyone does it, yes it may cost the customer
an extra fiver in plaster, but it's saved them half a day's labour charges

eh?? how can it take less time to get the final coat flat and put an
undercoat on?
remember the stuff sets up in 45mins....

Jim K

On Dec 2, 5:06 pm, jgharston wrote:
Jim K wrote:
As is shurely obvious the time to spend wisely is in the prep of
the surfaces, aligning the plasterboards so there are as few
"irregualrities" as possible, scrimming up etc.......

http://pics.mdfs.net/2012/11/121103.htmhas a gap before a join to a
sloping roof, it would have been a huge job getting the new bit of
sloping plasterboard lined up with the existing slope, so I made it as
good as possible, then put a first wedge-shaped coat along the bottom
four inches, then an hour later a second coat which went the full
width to meet the existing ceiling.

Now, how do I replaster the ceiling and wall that have been
wallpapered directly onto bare board...? Grr...

JGH

easy get off what you can PVA and skim it (aiming for one coat unless
you are on the make)

Jim K

Jim K wrote:
eh?? how can it take less time to get the final coat flat and put an
undercoat on?
remember the stuff sets up in 45mins....


I've been plastering on and off for 30 years and I know that it takes twice
as long to get one coat flat than it does with two coats, everyone else
knows this too, so this is what they do, you don't have to if you don't
want, and if you've only got a few patches to do, then it's fine to do it in
one, but when you've got several rooms and ceilings to do, or even full
houses, everything gets two coats, it gives you more time to first coat new
walls, IE
mix 1 - first coat a ceiling
mix 2 - first coat 2 walls in a different room
mix 3 - second coat ceiling and first coat another wall
mix 4 - second coat first two walls
mix 5 - second coat third wall
and so on

On Saturday, December 1, 2012 5:02:47 PM UTC, Phil L wrote:
wrote:
On Thursday, November 29, 2012 7:48:27 PM UTC, Phil L wrote:

The problems most people have when plastering a
1) trying to get it smooth right away - forget it, just get the wall
covered as quickly as possible - a 10ft by 8ft wall should take one
person no longer than 20 minutes to plaster 1st coat.
2) mixing the plaster, then realising they're not ready to apply it
- walls not pva'd, tools not to hand, can't find anything to stand
on, socket boxes not in etc etc.
3) mixing it too stiff - it needs to be wet
4) taking too long mixing / overmixing / making too stiff then
trying to water down with mixer - what many people don't realise is
that from the first moment the powder hits the water, they've got
about 40 minutes before it's as hard as a dog's head
5) putting little tiny blobs on the wall and trying to spread them
out with each motion - it needs long sweeping movements and each
trowel full should cover about 4 square feet
so to recap: make sure the wall is ready and you have all tools
(clean!) and equipment ready, mix the plaster to a smooth paste
slightly thicker than custard, and with no lumps, get the wall
covered in long movements, starting at the top and working down to
the skirting board, ignoring all lines, marks, lumps, bumps hollows
and everything else, then when it's first coated, clean off all
trowels etc and wait ten minutes before putting a second thin coat
over, this removes 90% of the marks and you shouldn't have broken a
sweat

Mind if that goes on the wiki?

Not at all

Great. Consider it done.
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...lastering_tips


NT

On Dec 3, 4:56 pm, "Phil L" wrote:
Jim K wrote:
eh?? how can it take less time to get the final coat flat and put an
undercoat on?
remember the stuff sets up in 45mins....

I've been plastering on and off for 30 years and I know that it takes twice
as long to get one coat flat than it does with two coats, everyone else
knows this too, so this is what they do, you don't have to if you don't
want, and if you've only got a few patches to do, then it's fine to do it in
one,

Oh put your rattle down big boy

but when you've got several rooms and ceilings to do, or even full
houses, everything gets two coats, it gives you more time to first coat new
walls,

but that doesn;t make any sense tho does it?

putting two coats of plaster on gives you "more time"..... how?

I've replastered 90% of my place after insulating with insulated
plasterboards. I skimmed all of it with one coat and have no issues.

The builders I hired to do a concentrated "knock hell out of a large
chunk" also skimmed pboard with one coat - no issues.

Seems you may still choose to believe all the apprentice **** that
gets/got perpetuated by "trade bodies", FMBunglers, masons greedy
"pro's" etc - work practices that were either overkill (££ kerching)
or based on old school "how we always dun it" (i.e. as per no pboard
- bare brick bonding & skim coats or would you do 3 here too ?)

No excuse to put bonding coats on pboard so mmm lets think up another
way to keep the costs up - oooh I know..........double the work load -
wahey the lads...

bilders - don;t you just love em? ;)

Jim K

On Dec 3, 8:29 pm, wrote:
On Saturday, December 1, 2012 5:02:47 PM UTC, Phil L wrote:
wrote:
On Thursday, November 29, 2012 7:48:27 PM UTC, Phil L wrote:
The problems most people have when plastering a
1) trying to get it smooth right away - forget it, just get the wall
covered as quickly as possible - a 10ft by 8ft wall should take one
person no longer than 20 minutes to plaster 1st coat.
2) mixing the plaster, then realising they're not ready to apply it
- walls not pva'd, tools not to hand, can't find anything to stand
on, socket boxes not in etc etc.
3) mixing it too stiff - it needs to be wet
4) taking too long mixing / overmixing / making too stiff then
trying to water down with mixer - what many people don't realise is
that from the first moment the powder hits the water, they've got
about 40 minutes before it's as hard as a dog's head
5) putting little tiny blobs on the wall and trying to spread them
out with each motion - it needs long sweeping movements and each
trowel full should cover about 4 square feet
so to recap: make sure the wall is ready and you have all tools
(clean!) and equipment ready, mix the plaster to a smooth paste
slightly thicker than custard, and with no lumps, get the wall
covered in long movements, starting at the top and working down to
the skirting board, ignoring all lines, marks, lumps, bumps hollows
and everything else, then when it's first coated, clean off all
trowels etc and wait ten minutes before putting a second thin coat
over, this removes 90% of the marks and you shouldn't have broken a
sweat

Mind if that goes on the wiki?

Not at all

Great. Consider it done.http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...lastering_tips

NT

will it be balanced?

Jim K