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Hi all,

I am looking to buy myself a Multimeter, not that I need one but it's
just something I want to learn to use, could come in handy some day! I
look after 2 fairly modern boilers so it could prove useful if one ever
develops a fault.

So my questions are, how hard is it to learn to use one? And are there
any which should be avoided?

--
David

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On 24/08/2012 22:45, gremlin_95 wrote:
Hi all,

I am looking to buy myself a Multimeter, not that I need one but it's
just something I want to learn to use, could come in handy some day! I
look after 2 fairly modern boilers so it could prove useful if one ever
develops a fault.

So my questions are, how hard is it to learn to use one? And are there
any which should be avoided?


Depends on the accuracy you require (and calibration). Difficult? Not
really - GCSE stuff. I take it that you wouldn't connect an ammeter in
parallel or anything daft like that?

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In message , gremlin_95
writes
Hi all,

I am looking to buy myself a Multimeter, not that I need one but it's
just something I want to learn to use, could come in handy some day! I
look after 2 fairly modern boilers so it could prove useful if one ever
develops a fault.

So my questions are, how hard is it to learn to use one?


Can yoy tie your own shoelaces

And are there any which should be avoided?


How far does your budget run?

You can buy one for under a tenner that will "do", but one with decent
probes that is auto-ranging would be better

--
geoff
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On 24/08/2012 22:45, gremlin_95 wrote:

I am looking to buy myself a Multimeter,

So my questions are, how hard is it to learn to use one? And are there
any which should be avoided?


Easy to use -just Google for "Youtube Multimeter" and you will find many
video tutorials.

They all work in a similar way. You can purchase one for as little as
little as £3.30 including postage but paying a couple of quid more will
get you a basic version in a more rugged case. For instance:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DIGITAL-LCD-MULTIMETER-VOLTMETER-AMMETER-VOLT-OHM-METER-/140614204386?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Test_Measurement _Equipment_ET&hash=item20bd427be2
http://tinyurl.com/8bp95gv

I would however recommend one with auto-ranging. A basic version can
cost £15/20.

I have one auto-ranging multimeter and an fair number of the cheap
models (from CPC when they were around £2). I keep the cheap ones in
the car/shed etc.

You can find units at much higher prices but unless you are going to use
them everyday and/or in a professional capacity where periodic
calibration is mandated it is probably not worth the expense.

One thing to note. Most(all) take a standard 9V battery and when it
starts going flat the multi-meters tend to give high readings. You will
get the high readings long before the LCD display fades. On the more
expensive models there will be a battery compartment. On the cheap
modules you will have to split the case apart. If you are only going to
use it, say, once a year then replacing the battery before use may be a
wise move.



--
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In article ,
gremlin_95 writes:
Hi all,

I am looking to buy myself a Multimeter, not that I need one but it's
just something I want to learn to use, could come in handy some day! I
look after 2 fairly modern boilers so it could prove useful if one ever
develops a fault.

So my questions are, how hard is it to learn to use one? And are there
any which should be avoided?


Don't spend more than £10, and I think I've picked up ones which
would do for starters for under £5. (You might quickly wreck it.)
Pop in to a local Maplin and see what they've got in the offer bins.

Also, buy some batteries, matching torch bulbs and lamp holders,
and some single core hook-up wire. That will give you something
to experiment using the meter on. There are probably some small books
on how to use a test meter - again you might find one in Maplin.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]


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"gremlin_95" wrote in message
...
Hi all,

I am looking to buy myself a Multimeter, not that I need one but it's just
something I want to learn to use, could come in handy some day! I look
after 2 fairly modern boilers so it could prove useful if one ever
develops a fault.

So my questions are, how hard is it to learn to use one? And are there any
which should be avoided?

--
David


This reminds me of a "technician" at uni. He was asked to draw a circuit of
how he'd check a fuse. He drew the fuse in series with a switch directly
across the mains. If the fuse blew, it WAS a good'un.

Learning to use a multimeter is pretty much a doddle. Ones with an audible
continuity tester are nice as are ones which measure AC current but you
don't normally get one for £5.
Transistor and diode checkers are also useful, maybe you don't need these.
Also note that being a digital readout, lots of folk treat the reading as
gospel, it 'aint. Some use dual-slope integrators - what happens is, you
apply your voltage to measure and at certain intervals an integrator
(constant current/linear rise rate) is fired off. This integrator rises in
voltage until it equals your voltage to be measured thus displaying the
result, actually it's displaying a time measurement.
Then you have the true rms meters but the price is rising again.
"Fluke" used to be the bees-knees in meters, dunno about these days, but
anyway, too expensive.
So yea, a £5 jobbie from Maplin is fine.


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On Aug 24, 10:45*pm, gremlin_95 wrote:
Hi all,

I am looking to buy myself a Multimeter, not that I need one but it's
just something I want to learn to use, could come in handy some day! I
look after 2 fairly modern boilers so it could prove useful if one ever
develops a fault.

So my questions are, how hard is it to learn to use one? And are there
any which should be avoided?


http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Multimeter

Even a rock bottom £2 one does fine for diy. Avoid the ones that lack
basic ranges, its all in the article. A plus with those £2 things is
you can buy several and put them everywhere you might need one: home,
business, car, etc. They pay for themselves with one use.

They're easy enough to use, just realise that if you ever prod an
energised circuit when on curent or resistance range, its likely to be
bye bye meter.


NT
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On 24/08/2012 22:45, gremlin_95 wrote:
Hi all,

I am looking to buy myself a Multimeter, not that I need one but it's


Congratulations - every man should have at least one ;-) (ok, I admit I
am a sad *******!)

just something I want to learn to use, could come in handy some day! I
look after 2 fairly modern boilers so it could prove useful if one ever
develops a fault.


Indeed - they are invaluable for all sorts of diagnostics.

So my questions are, how hard is it to learn to use one? And are there
any which should be avoided?


They are easy enough to use - its more a case of learning how to apply
them productively and learning to interpret what they can tell you.

There is some introductory stuff he

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Multimeter

However it might be interesting to write a DIY focussed practical uses
of a multimeter type of article. Stuff like working out where your
heating system controls are going wrong, or testing if a fuse or
lightbulb has actually blown etc.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/
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On Fri, 24 Aug 2012 16:13:01 -0700 (PDT), NT
wrote:

They're easy enough to use, just realise that if you ever prod an
energised circuit when on curent or resistance range, its likely to be
bye bye meter.


It soon becomes second nature to check before use. Mind you, long-term
use of an autoranging one might lead to lazy habits of not checking
properly.
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"brass monkey" wrote in message
eb.com...

"gremlin_95" wrote in message
...
Hi all,

I am looking to buy myself a Multimeter, not that I need one but it's
just something I want to learn to use, could come in handy some day! I
look after 2 fairly modern boilers so it could prove useful if one ever
develops a fault.

So my questions are, how hard is it to learn to use one? And are there
any which should be avoided?

--
David


This reminds me of a "technician" at uni. He was asked to draw a circuit
of how he'd check a fuse. He drew the fuse in series with a switch
directly across the mains. If the fuse blew, it WAS a good'un.

Learning to use a multimeter is pretty much a doddle. Ones with an audible
continuity tester are nice as are ones which measure AC current but you
don't normally get one for £5.
Transistor and diode checkers are also useful, maybe you don't need these.
Also note that being a digital readout, lots of folk treat the reading as
gospel, it 'aint. Some use dual-slope integrators - what happens is, you
apply your voltage to measure and at certain intervals an integrator
(constant current/linear rise rate) is fired off. This integrator rises in
voltage until it equals your voltage to be measured thus displaying the
result, actually it's displaying a time measurement.


Yes, I know, I've over-simplified here.

Then you have the true rms meters but the price is rising again.
"Fluke" used to be the bees-knees in meters, dunno about these days, but
anyway, too expensive.
So yea, a £5 jobbie from Maplin is fine.





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On Fri, 24 Aug 2012 22:45:32 +0100, gremlin_95
wrote:

Hi all,

I am looking to buy myself a Multimeter, not that I need one but it's
just something I want to learn to use, could come in handy some day! I
look after 2 fairly modern boilers so it could prove useful if one ever
develops a fault.

So my questions are, how hard is it to learn to use one? And are there
any which should be avoided?


Probably trhe most misleading for non-electronic use are the cheapest
digital multimeters. Because of their very high input impedance
they're llikely to show voltages that don't exist in real terms, such
as those induced in adjacent wires or very slight leakance through
plaster-embedded switches.

TBH I'd prefer a simple test lamp consisting of a 15W bulb in a
holder with a couple of test leads.

Seriously, in your case a test lamp would seem preferable to a fancy
digital meter.

















































t#o mnev
--
Frank Erskine
Sunderland
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On Sat, 25 Aug 2012 00:11:36 +0100, brass monkey wrote:
This reminds me of a "technician" at uni. He was asked to draw a circuit
of how he'd check a fuse. He drew the fuse in series with a switch
directly across the mains. If the fuse blew, it WAS a good'un.


In the real world, sods law says that the fuse would probably remain
intact, and the switch would fail

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The very cheapest will probably do all you need, but if your budget will run
to seven pounds, there are some, especially model DT9205A from various
sellers on eBay, with even more useful ranges and a buzzer and LED for
continuity checks.
I've bought three from two different suppliers with different names on them,
and their calibration comfortably meets the spec.
The supplied probes are a bit dangerous though, so it's worth spending a
further couple of pounds on decent probes with proper insulation on them and
their wires, or even more for a set with insulated crocodile clips and
insulated hooks.This may also apply to the very cheapest.


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brass monkey wrote on Aug 25, 2012:

"Fluke" used to be the bees-knees in meters, dunno about these days, but
anyway, too expensive.


I bought a Fluke 25 years ago and I've never regretted it. It works as well
now as the day I bought it. It's auto-ranging and virtually indestructible -
I could put it across the mains in any range and it would merely switch to an
appropriate range,

--
Mike Lane
UK North Yorkshire
mike_lane at mac dot com



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On Sat, 25 Aug 2012 08:34:53 +0100, Brian Gaff wrote:

Go for an analogue one not a digital one as these can show intermittent
and varying resistance faults far easier than digital ones do.


I knew there was a use for the AVO 8!

--
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK:
http://www.mirrorservice.org

*lightning protection* - a w_tom conductor
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In article . com, Mike
Lane wrote:
brass monkey wrote on Aug 25, 2012:


"Fluke" used to be the bees-knees in meters, dunno about these days,
but anyway, too expensive.


I bought a Fluke 25 years ago and I've never regretted it. It works as
well now as the day I bought it. It's auto-ranging and virtually
indestructible - I could put it across the mains in any range and it
would merely switch to an appropriate range,


i bought a Fluke about that time. regrettably the display has become
impossible to read.

--
From KT24

Using a RISC OS computer running v5.18

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On 25/08/2012 01:26, Frank Erskine wrote:
On Fri, 24 Aug 2012 22:45:32 +0100, gremlin_95
wrote:

Hi all,

I am looking to buy myself a Multimeter, not that I need one but it's
just something I want to learn to use, could come in handy some day! I
look after 2 fairly modern boilers so it could prove useful if one ever
develops a fault.

So my questions are, how hard is it to learn to use one? And are there
any which should be avoided?


Probably trhe most misleading for non-electronic use are the cheapest
digital multimeters. Because of their very high input impedance
they're llikely to show voltages that don't exist in real terms, such
as those induced in adjacent wires or very slight leakance through
plaster-embedded switches.

TBH I'd prefer a simple test lamp consisting of a 15W bulb in a
holder with a couple of test leads.

Seriously, in your case a test lamp would seem preferable to a fancy
digital meter.

I have a cheap analogue multimeter and a cheap digital one. Analogue is
probably easier for a quick idea of what is going on but my I now have a
digital one for areas where it might take a knock. It has the advantage
of a buzzer for continuity checking.
I would need shunts or far more expensive meters for amps but for volts
and ohms I find mine OK.
Never had a decent meter even when I did things for which I sometimes
needed an oscilloscope or frequency generator.
Now very much only use for finding out why basic appliances or the car
won't work.

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On Aug 25, 8:51*am, Bob Eager wrote:
On Sat, 25 Aug 2012 08:34:53 +0100, Brian Gaff wrote:
Go for an analogue one not a digital one as these can show intermittent
and varying resistance faults far easier than digital ones do.


I knew there was a use for the AVO 8!


they do the same things as a new one, just with extra ugliness.


NT
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On 25/08/2012 01:26, Frank Erskine wrote:


TBH I'd prefer a simple test lamp consisting of a 15W bulb in a
holder with a couple of test leads.

Seriously, in your case a test lamp would seem preferable to a fancy
digital meter.


What is the OP likely to us his multimeter for?
Checking that mains voltage is getting to his boiler
Checking for a blown fuse
Checking for voltage from a thermocouple
Perhaps checking DC voltages on a circuit board

A basic (cheap) digital multi-meter will do all of this and probably
give less ambiguous results than any of the alternatives.

Having a multi-meter and mastering the use of its functions isn't going
to help much in the repair if the knowledge about the item being
measured is missing.


--
mailto:news{at}admac(dot}myzen{dot}co{dot}uk


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On 25/08/2012 00:11, brass monkey wrote:

"gremlin_95" wrote in message
...
Hi all,

I am looking to buy myself a Multimeter, not that I need one but it's just
something I want to learn to use, could come in handy some day! I look
after 2 fairly modern boilers so it could prove useful if one ever
develops a fault.

So my questions are, how hard is it to learn to use one? And are there any
which should be avoided?

--
David


This reminds me of a "technician" at uni. He was asked to draw a circuit of
how he'd check a fuse. He drew the fuse in series with a switch directly
across the mains. If the fuse blew, it WAS a good'un.


Depends how the question was phrased. His answer is correct but unhelpful.

There was always one student (at least) that would try to measure the
source impedance of the bench mains supply by connecting an Avo across
live and neutral with the range set to resistance. This tested the
cutout spring device very severely and usually damaged the internals.

Learning to use a multimeter is pretty much a doddle. Ones with an audible
continuity tester are nice as are ones which measure AC current but you
don't normally get one for £5.
Transistor and diode checkers are also useful, maybe you don't need these.


It is quite hard these days to get one that doesn't also do frequency.
As for models well the cheapest one that Maplin or whoever has on offer
for under a tenner is a reasonable bet. I have a solar powered one ten
years old still going strong and incredibly small. They should all do
current voltage and resistance. Buzzer continuity test is worth having
as is diode test anything else a bonus unless you are into electronics.


Then you have the true rms meters but the price is rising again.
"Fluke" used to be the bees-knees in meters, dunno about these days, but
anyway, too expensive.
So yea, a £5 jobbie from Maplin is fine.


Agreed. Particularly for a first multimeter. The other advantage is that
cheap meters do not tend to go walkies like Flukes do.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown
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In article
,
NT wrote:
They're easy enough to use, just realise that if you ever prod an
energised circuit when on curent or resistance range, its likely to be
bye bye meter.


I've never managed to damage one by probing volts when in resistance mode
- although I suppose you might if the volts are high enough.

Half decent ones have a fuse to prevent damage if you probe volts while
set to current. On a Fluke (and maybe others) these fuses can cost more
than a cheap meter. ;-)

--
*Reality is the illusion that occurs due to the lack of alcohol *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
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In article ,
Frank Erskine wrote:
Probably trhe most misleading for non-electronic use are the cheapest
digital multimeters. Because of their very high input impedance
they're llikely to show voltages that don't exist in real terms, such
as those induced in adjacent wires or very slight leakance through
plaster-embedded switches.


Think that's a misleading statement. A high input impedance is a virtue -
in the days of analogue meters you had to pay dearly for the privilege, in
the form of a valve voltmeter.

It's very easy to change a high impedance one into a low impedance type by
adding resistance across the input. The other way round, not.

But in any case voltages measured with no load are pointless. Especially
on cars. To get a true reading the circuit should be under load.

--
*It's a thankless job, but I've got a lot of Karma to burn off

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
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In article ,
Brian Gaff wrote:
Go for an analogue one not a digital one as these can show intermittent
and varying resistance faults far easier than digital ones do.


For not much more money you can get digital meters with an additional
scale which mimics a needle display.

--
*Women like silent men; they think they're listening.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
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In article . com,
Mike Lane wrote:
I bought a Fluke 25 years ago and I've never regretted it. It works as
well now as the day I bought it. It's auto-ranging and virtually
indestructible - I could put it across the mains in any range and it
would merely switch to an appropriate range,


Even if setup to measure current? Now that would be useful...

--
*Why are a wise man and a wise guy opposites? *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.


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On 24/08/2012 22:56, Owain wrote:
On Aug 24, 10:45 pm, gremlin_95 wrote:
I am looking to buy myself a Multimeter, not that I need one but it's
just something I want to learn to use, could come in handy some day! I
look after 2 fairly modern boilers so it could prove useful if one ever
develops a fault.

So my questions are, how hard is it to learn to use one? And are there
any which should be avoided?


what do you actually need to measure? If it's basic continuity etc
then a multifunction electrical tester will probably be cheaper, more
robust, and more reliable.

this sort of thing
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Ind...741/index.html

Owain


That's made me think. All I really need is voltage & continuity.

Typical application, client removes loop in rose, joins all reds, all
blacks, loses sleeve on switch live. Quite common.

I find it a right PITA trying to hold two 'probes' and the DMM so I can
see it. You need three hands!

Something like that where the results are displayed on one of the
'probes' would be much easier.



--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
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On 24/08/2012 22:56, Owain wrote:
On Aug 24, 10:45 pm, gremlin_95 wrote:
I am looking to buy myself a Multimeter, not that I need one but it's
just something I want to learn to use, could come in handy some day! I
look after 2 fairly modern boilers so it could prove useful if one ever
develops a fault.

So my questions are, how hard is it to learn to use one? And are there
any which should be avoided?


what do you actually need to measure? If it's basic continuity etc
then a multifunction electrical tester will probably be cheaper, more
robust, and more reliable.


Oddly they are much more expensive than a cheap DMM?

this sort of thing
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Ind...741/index.html

Owain




--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
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On Sat, 25 Aug 2012 10:12:33 +0100, The Medway Handyman wrote:

On 24/08/2012 22:56, Owain wrote:
On Aug 24, 10:45 pm, gremlin_95 wrote:
I am looking to buy myself a Multimeter, not that I need one but it's
just something I want to learn to use, could come in handy some day! I
look after 2 fairly modern boilers so it could prove useful if one ever
develops a fault.

So my questions are, how hard is it to learn to use one? And are there
any which should be avoided?


what do you actually need to measure? If it's basic continuity etc
then a multifunction electrical tester will probably be cheaper, more
robust, and more reliable.

this sort of thing
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Ind...741/index.html

Owain


That's made me think. All I really need is voltage & continuity.

Typical application, client removes loop in rose, joins all reds, all
blacks, loses sleeve on switch live. Quite common.

I find it a right PITA trying to hold two 'probes' and the DMM so I can
see it. You need three hands!

Something like that where the results are displayed on one of the
'probes' would be much easier.


When I first got a MM I made up a 'probe' from a suitable plug, an insulated
pin clip and about 20' or so of nice flexible wire. It's greta for clipping
to a terminal and then I can wander off looking for t'other end of the
connection.
Very handy in France in a house with a mixture of French and English cabling
and circuitry.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway
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On 25/08/2012 09:20, NT wrote:
On Aug 25, 8:51 am, Bob Eager wrote:
On Sat, 25 Aug 2012 08:34:53 +0100, Brian Gaff wrote:
Go for an analogue one not a digital one as these can show intermittent
and varying resistance faults far easier than digital ones do.


I knew there was a use for the AVO 8!


they do the same things as a new one, just with extra ugliness.


NT

Ah when I was a sprog all that were available were Avos, very reliable
though needing regular calibration, we were thoroughly taught how to use
them. Oh yes there were Megggers as well, but hardly multimeters!

--
Residing on low ground in North Staffordshire
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On Sat, 25 Aug 2012 09:38:33 +0100, Martin Brown wrote:

This reminds me of a "technician" at uni. He was asked to draw a circuit of
how he'd check a fuse. He drew the fuse in series with a switch directly
across the mains. If the fuse blew, it WAS a good'un.


Bad case of DTs?

Depends how the question was phrased. His answer is correct but unhelpful.


Perhaps he'd worked for Microsoft.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway


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On Sat, 25 Aug 2012 01:20:07 -0700, NT wrote:

On Aug 25, 8:51Â*am, Bob Eager wrote:
On Sat, 25 Aug 2012 08:34:53 +0100, Brian Gaff wrote:
Go for an analogue one not a digital one as these can show
intermittent and varying resistance faults far easier than digital
ones do.


I knew there was a use for the AVO 8!


they do the same things as a new one, just with extra ugliness.


and a needle.
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On Aug 25, 9:48*am, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:
In article
,
* *NT wrote:

They're easy enough to use, just realise that if you ever prod an
energised circuit when on curent or resistance range, its likely to be
bye bye meter.


I've never managed to damage one by probing volts when in resistance mode
- although I suppose you might if the volts are high enough.

Half decent ones have a fuse to prevent damage if you probe volts while
set to current. On a Fluke (and maybe others) these fuses can cost more
than a cheap meter. ;-)


Fuses arent very effective at protecting analogue meters on a low
current range. Most folks buy digital now though.


NT
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On Aug 25, 9:56*am, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:
In article ,
* *Brian Gaff wrote:

Go for an analogue one not a digital one as these can show intermittent
and varying resistance faults far easier than digital ones do.


For not much more money you can get digital meters with an additional
scale which mimics a needle display.


The only ones I've seen have such low resolution pointer displays as
to be useless, and the main advantages of analogue meters are all
absent. Ie the ability to follow a varying signal, and the ability to
estimate heavy overcurrent by pointer speed.


NT
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On 24/08/2012 22:45, gremlin_95 wrote:
Hi all,

I am looking to buy myself a Multimeter, not that I need one but it's
just something I want to learn to use, could come in handy some day! I
look after 2 fairly modern boilers so it could prove useful if one ever
develops a fault.

So my questions are, how hard is it to learn to use one? And are there
any which should be avoided?


The basic questions

1) Is there voltage there?
2) Is my device drawing current?
3) Is there resistance or continuity between two circuit points?

Require different hookup of a meter. Best get an understanding of
concepts of a circuit, ohm's law, and metric prefixes - Kilo, Milli,
Mega ... etc

One of the basic mistakes beginners do is try to find measurements for
silly questions like "Is there current ACROSS these two points". The
probable second "Is there resistance in this POWERED circuit?". The
meter normally responds by popping a fuse or, worse, bursting into flames.

Cheap as chips digital meters are fine for a start, but pay respect with
live electricity - it bites mucho.

--
Adrian C


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In article
,
NT wrote:
On Aug 25, 9:56 am, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:
In article ,
Brian Gaff wrote:

Go for an analogue one not a digital one as these can show
intermittent and varying resistance faults far easier than digital
ones do.


For not much more money you can get digital meters with an additional
scale which mimics a needle display.


The only ones I've seen have such low resolution pointer displays as
to be useless, and the main advantages of analogue meters are all
absent. Ie the ability to follow a varying signal, and the ability to
estimate heavy overcurrent by pointer speed.


You can see that on a low resolution display. Only thing you can't do is
read a figure accurately. And autoranging would get round the second part.



NT


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In message , charles
writes
In article . com, Mike
Lane wrote:
brass monkey wrote on Aug 25, 2012:


"Fluke" used to be the bees-knees in meters, dunno about these days,
but anyway, too expensive.


I bought a Fluke 25 years ago and I've never regretted it. It works as
well now as the day I bought it. It's auto-ranging and virtually
indestructible - I could put it across the mains in any range and it
would merely switch to an appropriate range,


i bought a Fluke about that time. regrettably the display has become
impossible to read.


The demon drink, eh ?

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In article
,
NT wrote:
Half decent ones have a fuse to prevent damage if you probe volts while
set to current. On a Fluke (and maybe others) these fuses can cost more
than a cheap meter. ;-)


Fuses arent very effective at protecting analogue meters on a low
current range.


That's probably because they don't use a clever fuse like Fluke do. Not
invented when the AVO8 was king.

Most folks buy digital now though.



Quite. Have you seen the price of a new AVO8?

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In article ,
Adrian C wrote:
One of the basic mistakes beginners do is try to find measurements for
silly questions like "Is there current ACROSS these two points". The
probable second "Is there resistance in this POWERED circuit?". The
meter normally responds by popping a fuse or, worse, bursting into
flames.


Quite. What's needed is understanding the basics of electrical theory.
Using a DVM then becomes intuitive for the basic tasks. Doing things the
other way round is pointless.

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Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
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On Sat, 25 Aug 2012 12:06:10 +0100, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

In article
,
NT wrote:
Half decent ones have a fuse to prevent damage if you probe volts
while set to current. On a Fluke (and maybe others) these fuses can
cost more than a cheap meter. ;-)


Fuses arent very effective at protecting analogue meters on a low
current range.


That's probably because they don't use a clever fuse like Fluke do. Not
invented when the AVO8 was king.

Most folks buy digital now though.



Quite. Have you seen the price of a new AVO8?


Especially since manufacture ceased in 2008!

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On Sat, 25 Aug 2012 12:05:54 +0100, geoff wrote:

i bought a Fluke about that time. regrettably the display has become
impossible to read.


The demon drink, eh ?


g
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