In article ,
Bob Eager wrote:
Quite. Have you seen the price of a new AVO8?

Especially since manufacture ceased in 2008!

Ah - I thought I'd seen them on sale in RS much more recently. At the
thick end of 1000 quid.

--
*Why is "abbreviated" such a long word?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Sat, 25 Aug 2012 13:11:46 +0100, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

In article ,
Bob Eager wrote:
Quite. Have you seen the price of a new AVO8?

Especially since manufacture ceased in 2008!

Ah - I thought I'd seen them on sale in RS much more recently. At the
thick end of 1000 quid.

Perhaps someone bought them out....I think they were about £600 in 2008!

Hmmmm. I was wrong - and my information was. £870 plus VAT. Tagged
Megger, but that's been true for a while.

--
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK:
http://www.mirrorservice.org

*lightning protection* - a w_tom conductor

On Sat, 25 Aug 2012 13:11:46 +0100, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

In article ,
Bob Eager wrote:
Quite. Have you seen the price of a new AVO8?

Especially since manufacture ceased in 2008!

Ah - I thought I'd seen them on sale in RS much more recently. At the
thick end of 1000 quid.

JUst checked again - all marked as Discontinued Product.



--
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK:
http://www.mirrorservice.org

*lightning protection* - a w_tom conductor

On Aug 25, 12:06*pm, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:
In article
,
* *NT wrote:

Half decent ones have a fuse to prevent damage if you probe volts while
set to current. On a Fluke (and maybe others) these fuses can cost more
than a cheap meter. ;-)
Fuses arent very effective at protecting analogue meters on a low
current range.

That's probably because they don't use a clever fuse like Fluke do. Not
invented when the AVO8 was king.

I've never heard of a fuse that can protect a 50uA current range


Most folks buy digital now though.

Quite. Have you seen the price of a new AVO8?

madness


NT

On Aug 25, 12:04*pm, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:
In article
,
* *NT wrote:

On Aug 25, 9:56 am, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:
In article ,
* *Brian Gaff wrote:

Go for an analogue one not a digital one as these can show
intermittent and varying resistance faults far easier than digital
ones do.

For not much more money you can get digital meters with an additional
scale which mimics a needle display.
The only ones I've seen have such low resolution pointer displays as
to be useless, and the main advantages of analogue meters are all
absent. Ie the ability to follow a varying signal, and the ability to
estimate heavy overcurrent by pointer speed.

You can see that on a low resolution display. Only thing you can't do is
read a figure accurately. And autoranging would get round the second part..

Autoranging doesn't enable a 1A meter to read 10A. Analogues can - not
accurately, but enough to tell what state a battery's in.


NT

On 25/08/2012 10:12, The Medway Handyman wrote:
On 24/08/2012 22:56, Owain wrote:
On Aug 24, 10:45 pm, gremlin_95 wrote:
I am looking to buy myself a Multimeter, not that I need one but it's
just something I want to learn to use, could come in handy some day! I
look after 2 fairly modern boilers so it could prove useful if one ever
develops a fault.

So my questions are, how hard is it to learn to use one? And are there
any which should be avoided?

what do you actually need to measure? If it's basic continuity etc
then a multifunction electrical tester will probably be cheaper, more
robust, and more reliable.

this sort of thing
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Ind...741/index.html


Owain


That's made me think. All I really need is voltage & continuity.

Typical application, client removes loop in rose, joins all reds, all
blacks, loses sleeve on switch live. Quite common.

I find it a right PITA trying to hold two 'probes' and the DMM so I can
see it. You need three hands!

Something like that where the results are displayed on one of the
'probes' would be much easier.

Yup, made for the task. Having said that, a set of test leads with clock
clip add ons that screw onto the end are also very handy for this.

A long test lead can at times be handy (I have one on a small reel with
4mm plug and socket either end) - its sometimes easier to buzz between
the switch and the rose rather than using the switch as a round trip
link to close your test circuit (particularly when the switch is an
electronic one that you can't turn "on" when not powered).

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

NT wrote:

Autoranging doesn't enable a 1A meter to read 10A. Analogues can - not
accurately, but enough to tell what state a battery's in.



You estimate how bent the needle is, and that tells you how much MORE
than 1A it was when the needle hit the end stop.

NT


--
Ineptocracy

(in-ep-toc-ra-cy) €“ a system of government where the least capable to
lead are elected by the least capable of producing, and where the
members of society least likely to sustain themselves or succeed, are
rewarded with goods and services paid for by the confiscated wealth of a
diminishing number of producers.

Hi all,

I am looking to buy myself a Multimeter, not that I need one but it's just
something I want to learn to use, could come in handy some day! I look
after 2 fairly modern boilers so it could prove useful if one ever develops
a fault.

So my questions are, how hard is it to learn to use one? And are there any
which should be avoided?


I still use the Avo multiminor I bought from an army surplus stall for ten
bob many moons ago. I still like the very tactile rubber covered probes. Ooo
er missus!!!

Mike

On 25/08/2012 09:33, alan wrote:

Having a multi-meter and mastering the use of its functions isn't going
to help much in the repair if the knowledge about the item being
measured is missing.

True, however the converse is also true - knowing how the boiler control
system works does not help if you don't know how to use the multimeter
to diagnose it.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

En el artículo , charles
escribió:

i bought a Fluke about that time. regrettably the display has become
impossible to read.

It's the rubberised 'zebra stripe' connector between the LCD and the
PCB. Take it out, clean the edges *very* gently with IPA, and
reassemble. Do not get finger oils on it.

The black bits are the conductors and the connection is made via
compression to pads on the PCB and LCD.

--
(\_/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")

In article
,
NT wrote:
That's probably because they don't use a clever fuse like Fluke do. Not
invented when the AVO8 was king.

I've never heard of a fuse that can protect a 50uA current range

That's because an analogue mechanical meter would be horribly inaccurate
measuring tiny currents on a higher range - not so a decent DVM. The
lowest range on my Fluke is simply mA - but it will read to three decimal
places for small current.

--
*Re-elect nobody

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article
,
NT wrote:
You can see that on a low resolution display. Only thing you can't do
is read a figure accurately. And autoranging would get round the
second part.

Autoranging doesn't enable a 1A meter to read 10A. Analogues can - not
accurately, but enough to tell what state a battery's in.

No - but it allows a 10 amp one to read 1 amp, if that's in the spec.

I've not found anything my AVO8 can do that my Fluke can't. However, the
Fluke can do lots not even thought of or more likely possible when the 8
was designed.

--
*Wrinkled was not one of the things I wanted to be when I grew up

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
Muddymike wrote:
I still use the Avo multiminor I bought from an army surplus stall for
ten bob many moons ago. I still like the very tactile rubber covered
probes. Ooo er missus!!!

Yeh - they're great. Fiddling with a knob each time you need to measure
resistance - only to find the battery is too flat to zero it. And only
available new from specialists.

--
*A closed mouth gathers no feet.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
Muddymike wrote:
I still use the Avo multiminor I bought from an army surplus stall for
ten bob many moons ago. I still like the very tactile rubber covered
probes. Ooo er missus!!!

Yeh - they're great. Fiddling with a knob each time you need to measure
resistance - only to find the battery is too flat to zero it. And only
available new from specialists.


It says "takes HP7 battery" in the lid, that's not so specialist!

Mike

In article ,
Muddymike wrote:
In article ,
Muddymike wrote:
I still use the Avo multiminor I bought from an army surplus stall for
ten bob many moons ago. I still like the very tactile rubber covered
probes. Ooo er missus!!!

Yeh - they're great. Fiddling with a knob each time you need to measure
resistance - only to find the battery is too flat to zero it. And only
available new from specialists.


It says "takes HP7 battery" in the lid, that's not so specialist!

That sounds like a late model.

--
*Caution: I drive like you do.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
Mike Tomlinson wrote:
En el artículo , charles
escribió:

i bought a Fluke about that time. regrettably the display has become
impossible to read.

It's the rubberised 'zebra stripe' connector between the LCD and the
PCB. Take it out, clean the edges *very* gently with IPA, and
reassemble. Do not get finger oils on it.

The black bits are the conductors and the connection is made via
compression to pads on the PCB and LCD.

Thank you. I see 3 Pozi screws on the back. I'll try taking it apart
tomorrow.

--
From KT24

Using a RISC OS computer running v5.18

In message , gremlin_95
writes
Hi all,

I am looking to buy myself a Multimeter, not that I need one but it's
just something I want to learn to use, could come in handy some day! I
look after 2 fairly modern boilers so it could prove useful if one ever
develops a fault.

So my questions are, how hard is it to learn to use one? And are there
any which should be avoided?

I've flicked through all the postings so far. Has anyone mentioned maybe
making sure to get one with an AC current range? Lots of the cheaper
meters - while perfectly adequate for most uses - only have DC current.
£30 - £40 should get you a reasonable one. Otherwise, £15 - £30. Some of
the really cheap ones (£5, and auto-ranging) are remarkably good. If
you blow one up, just throw it away, and buy another!
--
Ian

On 25/08/2012 14:48, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article
,
NT wrote:
You can see that on a low resolution display. Only thing you can't do
is read a figure accurately. And autoranging would get round the
second part.

Autoranging doesn't enable a 1A meter to read 10A. Analogues can - not
accurately, but enough to tell what state a battery's in.

No - but it allows a 10 amp one to read 1 amp, if that's in the spec.

I've not found anything my AVO8 can do that my Fluke can't. However, the

Wedge a fire door open ;-)

Fluke can do lots not even thought of or more likely possible when the 8
was designed.





--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 24/08/2012 22:45, gremlin_95 wrote:
Hi all,

I am looking to buy myself a Multimeter, not that I need one but it's
just something I want to learn to use, could come in handy some day! I
look after 2 fairly modern boilers so it could prove useful if one
ever develops a fault.

So my questions are, how hard is it to learn to use one? And are there
any which should be avoided?



---

Wow, so many replies! Thank you very much. I just enjoy finding out how
things like domestic appliances, boilers etc work, so mainly just for
checking things 'just out of interest' sort of thing, obviously could
also use it for fault finding if need be. I won't tinker with anything I
don't properly understand.

Anyway, does this one seem a good buy?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Aidetek-VC97...916611&sr=8-20

Cheers

--
David

On 25/08/2012 14:46, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article
,
NT wrote:
That's probably because they don't use a clever fuse like Fluke do. Not
invented when the AVO8 was king.

I've never heard of a fuse that can protect a 50uA current range

That's because an analogue mechanical meter would be horribly inaccurate
measuring tiny currents on a higher range - not so a decent DVM. The
lowest range on my Fluke is simply mA - but it will read to three decimal
places for small current.


That's resolution, not necessarily accuracy. Depending on the full scale
of the lowest range, the readings for very small currents could be
widely inaccurate.
The specification would be something like +/-1% + 5 digits
Assuming a 4 digit display and a 1ma full scale on the lowest range
1mA could read 1.015mA = 1.5% error
100uA could read 0.106mA = 6% error
10uA could read 0.015mA = 50% error

Where the resolution could be useful is when comparing two like items.
One item could be passing 0.017mA and the other 0.019mA. You could
confidentially say that item 2 was passing more current without actually
knowing the absolute true value.

On analogue meters you can also have parallax viewing errors. That's why
"quality" analogue meters of the past used to have a mirrors embedded in
the scale.

--
mailto:news{at}admac(dot}myzen{dot}co{dot}uk

On 25/08/2012 18:47, gremlin_95 wrote:


Anyway, does this one seem a good buy?



£7 cheaper on Ebay.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-VC97-3-3-4-Auto-Range-Digital-Multimeter-All-Function-/280867888733?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Test_Measurement _Equipment_ET&hash=item416507de5d

http://tinyurl.com/cm3kqtp




--
mailto:news{at}admac(dot}myzen{dot}co{dot}uk

On 25/08/2012 19:25, alan wrote:
On 25/08/2012 18:47, gremlin_95 wrote:


Anyway, does this one seem a good buy?



£7 cheaper on Ebay.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-VC97-3-3-4-Auto-Range-Digital-Multimeter-All-Function-/280867888733?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Test_Measurement _Equipment_ET&hash=item416507de5d


http://tinyurl.com/cm3kqtp




Cheers!

--
David

On Aug 25, 7:04*pm, alan wrote:
On 25/08/2012 14:46, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

In article
,
* * NT wrote:
That's probably because they don't use a clever fuse like Fluke do. Not
invented when the AVO8 was king.

I've never heard of a fuse that can protect a 50uA current range

That's because an analogue mechanical meter would be horribly inaccurate
measuring tiny currents on a higher range - not so a decent DVM. The
lowest range on my Fluke is simply mA - but it will read to three decimal
places for small current.

That's resolution, not necessarily accuracy. Depending on the full scale
of the lowest range, the readings for very small currents could be
widely inaccurate.
The specification would be something like +/-1% + 5 digits
Assuming a 4 digit display and a 1ma full scale on the lowest range
1mA * *could read 1.015mA = 1.5% error
100uA *could read 0.106mA = 6% error
10uA * could read 0.015mA = 50% error

It also misses the point. Even if you used a 5mA range to measure that
50uA, there's still no fuse that can protect it.


Where the resolution could be useful is when comparing two like items.
One item could be passing 0.017mA and the other 0.019mA. You could
confidentially say that item 2 was passing more current without actually
knowing the absolute true value.

On analogue meters you can also have parallax viewing errors. That's why
"quality" analogue meters of the past used to have a mirrors embedded in
the scale.

Yes, though I never found them in practice to add any accuracy.


NT

On 25/08/2012 00:11, brass monkey wrote:

So yea, a �5 jobbie from Maplin is fine.

Not if you're going to use it across the mains:

http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/books/gs38.htm
http://www.testextra.com/misc/what_a...ry_ratings.htm

--
Andy

On 25/08/2012 18:47, gremlin_95 wrote:
On 24/08/2012 22:45, gremlin_95 wrote:
Hi all,

I am looking to buy myself a Multimeter, not that I need one but it's
just something I want to learn to use, could come in handy some day! I
look after 2 fairly modern boilers so it could prove useful if one
ever develops a fault.

So my questions are, how hard is it to learn to use one? And are there
any which should be avoided?



---

Wow, so many replies! Thank you very much. I just enjoy finding out how
things like domestic appliances, boilers etc work, so mainly just for
checking things 'just out of interest' sort of thing, obviously could
also use it for fault finding if need be. I won't tinker with anything I
don't properly understand.

Anyway, does this one seem a good buy?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Aidetek-VC97...916611&sr=8-20

Yup that looks like it covers all the basics. Reasonable set of leads as
well by the looks of it. The continuity test triggering on 30 ohms is
also nice - many cheaper meters trigger on 200 or less which can tend to
make all sorts of not really connected things appear to be ;-)


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 25/08/2012 17:41, Ian Jackson wrote:
In message , gremlin_95
writes
Hi all,

I am looking to buy myself a Multimeter, not that I need one but it's
just something I want to learn to use, could come in handy some day! I
look after 2 fairly modern boilers so it could prove useful if one
ever develops a fault.

So my questions are, how hard is it to learn to use one? And are there
any which should be avoided?

I've flicked through all the postings so far. Has anyone mentioned maybe
making sure to get one with an AC current range? Lots of the cheaper
meters - while perfectly adequate for most uses - only have DC current.
£30 - £40 should get you a reasonable one. Otherwise, £15 - £30. Some of
the really cheap ones (£5, and auto-ranging) are remarkably good. If
you blow one up, just throw it away, and buy another!


If needing current measurement on AC, then its often worth considering a
clamp meter - lets you measure mains current more easily without needing
to break into the circuit.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

In message , John
Rumm writes
On 25/08/2012 17:41, Ian Jackson wrote:
In message , gremlin_95
writes
Hi all,

I am looking to buy myself a Multimeter, not that I need one but it's
just something I want to learn to use, could come in handy some day! I
look after 2 fairly modern boilers so it could prove useful if one
ever develops a fault.

So my questions are, how hard is it to learn to use one? And are there
any which should be avoided?

I've flicked through all the postings so far. Has anyone mentioned maybe
making sure to get one with an AC current range? Lots of the cheaper
meters - while perfectly adequate for most uses - only have DC current.
£30 - £40 should get you a reasonable one. Otherwise, £15 - £30. Some of
the really cheap ones (£5, and auto-ranging) are remarkably good. If
you blow one up, just throw it away, and buy another!


If needing current measurement on AC, then its often worth considering
a clamp meter - lets you measure mains current more easily without
needing to break into the circuit.


We're getting into how many UKdiyers does it take to change a lightbulb
territory here

CPC have just been having a "sale" on clamp meters


--
geoff

In message , John
Rumm writes
On 25/08/2012 17:41, Ian Jackson wrote:
In message , gremlin_95
writes
Hi all,

I am looking to buy myself a Multimeter, not that I need one but it's
just something I want to learn to use, could come in handy some day! I
look after 2 fairly modern boilers so it could prove useful if one
ever develops a fault.

So my questions are, how hard is it to learn to use one? And are there
any which should be avoided?

I've flicked through all the postings so far. Has anyone mentioned maybe
making sure to get one with an AC current range? Lots of the cheaper
meters - while perfectly adequate for most uses - only have DC current.
£30 - £40 should get you a reasonable one. Otherwise, £15 - £30. Some of
the really cheap ones (£5, and auto-ranging) are remarkably good. If
you blow one up, just throw it away, and buy another!


If needing current measurement on AC, then its often worth considering
a clamp meter - lets you measure mains current more easily without
needing to break into the circuit.

Are they any good - or accurate - for measuring low currents? I have
one, and I can't say I've ever used it 'for real' (other than checking
see if it worked by clamping it on the single cable tails connecting the
incoming mains to the electricity meter).

Don't forget that, when making mains (or any) measurements, you mustn't
have both the go and return conductors inside the jaws of the clamp. For
convenience, you really need to make special test extension lead, with
individual live, neutral and earth conductors (ie not enclosed together
inside the sheath of the mains cable).
--
Ian

In article , gremlin_95
scribeth thus
On 24/08/2012 22:45, gremlin_95 wrote:
Hi all,

I am looking to buy myself a Multimeter, not that I need one but it's
just something I want to learn to use, could come in handy some day! I
look after 2 fairly modern boilers so it could prove useful if one
ever develops a fault.

So my questions are, how hard is it to learn to use one? And are there
any which should be avoided?



---

Wow, so many replies! Thank you very much. I just enjoy finding out how
things like domestic appliances, boilers etc work, so mainly just for
checking things 'just out of interest' sort of thing, obviously could
also use it for fault finding if need be. I won't tinker with anything I
don't properly understand.

Anyway, does this one seem a good buy?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Aidetek-VC97.../dp/B006DRKN3I
/ref=sr_1_20?ie=UTF8&qid=1345916611&sr=8-20

Cheers


Well thats better then the 5 quid Maplin jobbie which is a waste of 5
quid IMHO. I've have a look round for a s/hand Fluke they sometimes go
for not a great deal more than that. Also a decent set of insulated
probes is a must...


--
Tony Sayer

In message , Ian Jackson
writes
In message , John
Rumm writes
On 25/08/2012 17:41, Ian Jackson wrote:
In message , gremlin_95
writes
Hi all,

I am looking to buy myself a Multimeter, not that I need one but it's
just something I want to learn to use, could come in handy some day! I
look after 2 fairly modern boilers so it could prove useful if one
ever develops a fault.

So my questions are, how hard is it to learn to use one? And are there
any which should be avoided?

I've flicked through all the postings so far. Has anyone mentioned maybe
making sure to get one with an AC current range? Lots of the cheaper
meters - while perfectly adequate for most uses - only have DC current.
£30 - £40 should get you a reasonable one. Otherwise, £15 - £30. Some of
the really cheap ones (£5, and auto-ranging) are remarkably good. If
you blow one up, just throw it away, and buy another!


If needing current measurement on AC, then its often worth considering
a clamp meter - lets you measure mains current more easily without
needing to break into the circuit.

Are they any good - or accurate - for measuring low currents? I have
one, and I can't say I've ever used it 'for real' (other than checking
see if it worked by clamping it on the single cable tails connecting
the incoming mains to the electricity meter).

Real men use them as prince alberts


--
geoff

In article ,
John Rumm wrote:
On 25/08/2012 17:41, Ian Jackson wrote:
In message , gremlin_95
writes
Hi all,

I am looking to buy myself a Multimeter, not that I need one but it's
just something I want to learn to use, could come in handy some day! I
look after 2 fairly modern boilers so it could prove useful if one
ever develops a fault.

So my questions are, how hard is it to learn to use one? And are there
any which should be avoided?

I've flicked through all the postings so far. Has anyone mentioned maybe
making sure to get one with an AC current range? Lots of the cheaper
meters - while perfectly adequate for most uses - only have DC current.
£30 - £40 should get you a reasonable one. Otherwise, £15 - £30. Some of
the really cheap ones (£5, and auto-ranging) are remarkably good. If
you blow one up, just throw it away, and buy another!


If needing current measurement on AC, then its often worth considering a
clamp meter - lets you measure mains current more easily without needing
to break into the circuit.


fine if the conductors are separate. Not a lot of use on twin&E

--
From KT24

Using a RISC OS computer running v5.18

That looks more than adequate, and with safe probes.
Now to the question of how to use it:
"Getting the Most from Your Multimeter" by R.A. Penfold , published by
Babani ages ago and probably still at your local library isn't a bad place
to start, though there are surely more modern articles published on the www?

On 26/08/2012 02:45, Martin Crossley wrote:
That looks more than adequate, and with safe probes.
Now to the question of how to use it:
"Getting the Most from Your Multimeter" by R.A. Penfold , published by
Babani ages ago and probably still at your local library isn't a bad place
to start, though there are surely more modern articles published on the www?



For the OP Youtube could be his friend.
There will be everything from the unhelpful 10 minute video of unpacking
the jiffy bag the DMM came in to basic and more detailed tutorials. As
with all things on the net there will also be some crap and some people
demonstrating something they know little about. The OP will need to view
more than one video to sort the wheat from the chaff.

Perhaps start with
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bF3OyQ3HwfU

It's not without faults but it will possible stop the OP from blowing up
his new toy.


Maybe follow on with an 30/60 minutes of tutorial
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZBbgiBU96mM

Section 2a
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EVFkKBFJsZg

Section 2b (with corrections to 2a)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JID_6JSNwoQ

Section 3
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=InJhgwmj2So

The adverts can be skipped after around 5 seconds


--
mailto:news{at}admac(dot}myzen{dot}co{dot}uk

Dave Plowman (News) wrote on Aug 25, 2012:

In article . com,
Mike Lane wrote:
I bought a Fluke 25 years ago and I've never regretted it. It works as
well now as the day I bought it. It's auto-ranging and virtually
indestructible - I could put it across the mains in any range and it
would merely switch to an appropriate range,

Even if setup to measure current? Now that would be useful...



The model I have doesn't have current ranges - just AC/DC voltage plus
resistance and capacitance. That's all I normally need - if I ever do want to
measure current I use an even older Avo 8.

--
Mike Lane
UK North Yorkshire
mike_lane at mac dot com

On Sat, 25 Aug 2012 23:21:06 +0100, geoff wrote:

If needing current measurement on AC, then its often worth considering
a clamp meter - lets you measure mains current more easily without
needing to break into the circuit.

Are they any good - or accurate - for measuring low currents? I have
one, and I can't say I've ever used it 'for real' (other than checking
see if it worked by clamping it on the single cable tails connecting
the incoming mains to the electricity meter).

Real men use them as prince alberts

I wonder what they measure then.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article . com,
Mike Lane wrote:
I bought a Fluke 25 years ago and I've never regretted it. It works
as well now as the day I bought it. It's auto-ranging and virtually
indestructible - I could put it across the mains in any range and it
would merely switch to an appropriate range,

Even if setup to measure current? Now that would be useful...

So you've done that as well as me?

--
Adam

On 25/08/2012 22:50, Ian Jackson wrote:
In message , John
Rumm writes
On 25/08/2012 17:41, Ian Jackson wrote:
In message , gremlin_95
writes
Hi all,

I am looking to buy myself a Multimeter, not that I need one but it's
just something I want to learn to use, could come in handy some day! I
look after 2 fairly modern boilers so it could prove useful if one
ever develops a fault.

So my questions are, how hard is it to learn to use one? And are there
any which should be avoided?

I've flicked through all the postings so far. Has anyone mentioned maybe
making sure to get one with an AC current range? Lots of the cheaper
meters - while perfectly adequate for most uses - only have DC current.
£30 - £40 should get you a reasonable one. Otherwise, £15 - £30. Some of
the really cheap ones (£5, and auto-ranging) are remarkably good. If
you blow one up, just throw it away, and buy another!


If needing current measurement on AC, then its often worth considering
a clamp meter - lets you measure mains current more easily without
needing to break into the circuit.

Are they any good - or accurate - for measuring low currents?

Depends on how low... for most mains appliances they are adequate,
unless dealing with tiny loads. However there is a trick you can use here...

I have
one, and I can't say I've ever used it 'for real' (other than checking
see if it worked by clamping it on the single cable tails connecting the
incoming mains to the electricity meter).

Don't forget that, when making mains (or any) measurements, you mustn't
have both the go and return conductors inside the jaws of the clamp. For
convenience, you really need to make special test extension lead, with
individual live, neutral and earth conductors (ie not enclosed together
inside the sheath of the mains cable).

Indeed - and here is where the trick can come in handy. For measuring
low currents, loop one of the live conductors through the clamp more
than once. Its relatively easy to bundle up say ten turns of conductor
and then clamp round the side of the bunch. That will scale your reading
to ten times the actual current.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 26/08/2012 00:02, charles wrote:
In article ,
John Rumm wrote:
On 25/08/2012 17:41, Ian Jackson wrote:
In message , gremlin_95
writes
Hi all,

I am looking to buy myself a Multimeter, not that I need one but it's
just something I want to learn to use, could come in handy some day! I
look after 2 fairly modern boilers so it could prove useful if one
ever develops a fault.

So my questions are, how hard is it to learn to use one? And are there
any which should be avoided?

I've flicked through all the postings so far. Has anyone mentioned maybe
making sure to get one with an AC current range? Lots of the cheaper
meters - while perfectly adequate for most uses - only have DC current.
£30 - £40 should get you a reasonable one. Otherwise, £15 - £30. Some of
the really cheap ones (£5, and auto-ranging) are remarkably good. If
you blow one up, just throw it away, and buy another!


If needing current measurement on AC, then its often worth considering a
clamp meter - lets you measure mains current more easily without needing
to break into the circuit.


fine if the conductors are separate. Not a lot of use on twin&E

It just requires a bit of lateral thought... say clamping round the
conductors as they emerge from the MCB in the CU, or if the load
conditions for the rest of the house are stable, then clamping round a
meter tail, and looking at the difference in reading with the circuit /
appliance of interest on and off.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

In message , PeterC
writes
On Sat, 25 Aug 2012 23:21:06 +0100, geoff wrote:

If needing current measurement on AC, then its often worth considering
a clamp meter - lets you measure mains current more easily without
needing to break into the circuit.

Are they any good - or accurate - for measuring low currents? I have
one, and I can't say I've ever used it 'for real' (other than checking
see if it worked by clamping it on the single cable tails connecting
the incoming mains to the electricity meter).

Real men use them as prince alberts

I wonder what they measure then.

Angle of dangle, what else ?


--
geoff

On 26/08/2012 13:28, geoff wrote:
In message , PeterC
writes
On Sat, 25 Aug 2012 23:21:06 +0100, geoff wrote:

If needing current measurement on AC, then its often worth considering
a clamp meter - lets you measure mains current more easily without
needing to break into the circuit.

Are they any good - or accurate - for measuring low currents? I have
one, and I can't say I've ever used it 'for real' (other than checking
see if it worked by clamping it on the single cable tails connecting
the incoming mains to the electricity meter).

Real men use them as prince alberts

I wonder what they measure then.

Angle of dangle, what else ?


The angle of the dangle is equal to the heat of the beat when the throb
of the knob is constant.

--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk