I have a couple of fluorescent light fittings in the house, each
containing two fairly standard tubes and two 120 volt starters. I
know the starters need to be 120 volt ones because I discovered a few
years ago that 240 volt ones won't start the lights.

I think I need some new starters again, but every electrical &
lighting shop I've tried so far doesn't have them, and a quick WWW
search only shows them in the USA (where they are obviously useful).

Are double-tube fittings wired this way obsolete now?

"Adam Funk" wrote in message ...

I have a couple of fluorescent light fittings in the house, each
containing two fairly standard tubes and two 120 volt starters. I
know the starters need to be 120 volt ones because I discovered a few
years ago that 240 volt ones won't start the lights.

I think I need some new starters again, but every electrical &
lighting shop I've tried so far doesn't have them, and a quick WWW
search only shows them in the USA (where they are obviously useful).

Are double-tube fittings wired this way obsolete now?


I needed some 120v ones recently (for a fly killer that uses two uv tubes in
series) and found some on ebay fairly easily.

AWEM

Adam Funk wrote in news:8udj59xdsg.ln2
@news.ducksburg.com:

I have a couple of fluorescent light fittings in the house, each
containing two fairly standard tubes and two 120 volt starters. I
know the starters need to be 120 volt ones because I discovered a few
years ago that 240 volt ones won't start the lights.

I think I need some new starters again, but every electrical &
lighting shop I've tried so far doesn't have them, and a quick WWW
search only shows them in the USA (where they are obviously useful).

Are double-tube fittings wired this way obsolete now?

I think FS2 starters are what you need. Have a look here.

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/BGFS2.html

--- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to ---

On Apr 12, 5:54*pm, Adam Funk wrote:
I have a couple of fluorescent light fittings in the house, each
containing two fairly standard tubes and two 120 volt starters. *I
know the starters need to be 120 volt ones because I discovered a few
years ago that 240 volt ones won't start the lights.

I think I need some new starters again, but every electrical &
lighting shop I've tried so far doesn't have them, and a quick WWW
search only shows them in the USA (where they are obviously useful).

Are double-tube fittings wired this way obsolete now?

did you use other search terms, eg series starter?


NT

On 12/04/2012 19:20, Andrew Mawson wrote:
"Adam Funk" wrote in message ...

I have a couple of fluorescent light fittings in the house, each
containing two fairly standard tubes and two 120 volt starters. I
know the starters need to be 120 volt ones because I discovered a few
years ago that 240 volt ones won't start the lights.

I think I need some new starters again, but every electrical &
lighting shop I've tried so far doesn't have them, and a quick WWW
search only shows them in the USA (where they are obviously useful).

Are double-tube fittings wired this way obsolete now?

I needed some 120v ones recently (for a fly killer that uses two uv
tubes in series) and found some on ebay fairly easily.

Have you been able to find a supplier of the the old style magnetic
chokes these things seem to use? I have two dead fly killers where the
fluoros 2x 110vac magnetic ballast has burned out. The only place I
could find online advertising them did not in fact have any stock

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

On Apr 12, 9:02*pm, Martin Brown
wrote:
On 12/04/2012 19:20, Andrew Mawson wrote:

"Adam Funk" wrote in ...

I have a couple of fluorescent light fittings in the house, each
containing two fairly standard tubes and two 120 volt starters. I
know the starters need to be 120 volt ones because I discovered a few
years ago that 240 volt ones won't start the lights.

I think I need some new starters again, but every electrical &
lighting shop I've tried so far doesn't have them, and a quick WWW
search only shows them in the USA (where they are obviously useful).

Are double-tube fittings wired this way obsolete now?

I needed some 120v ones recently (for a fly killer that uses two uv
tubes in series) and found some on ebay fairly easily.

Have you been able to find a supplier of the the old style magnetic
chokes these things seem to use? I have two dead fly killers where the
fluoros 2x 110vac magnetic ballast has burned out. The only place I
could find online advertising them did not in fact have any stock

If you tell us the tube specs, the problem should be solvable.

Its odd to have 2x 110v ballasts, 1x 240v one for the pair is more
normal.


NT

On 12/04/2012 23:43, NT wrote:
On Apr 12, 9:02 pm, Martin
wrote:
On 12/04/2012 19:20, Andrew Mawson wrote:

"Adam Funk" wrote in ...

I have a couple of fluorescent light fittings in the house, each
containing two fairly standard tubes and two 120 volt starters. I
know the starters need to be 120 volt ones because I discovered a few
years ago that 240 volt ones won't start the lights.

I think I need some new starters again, but every electrical&
lighting shop I've tried so far doesn't have them, and a quick WWW
search only shows them in the USA (where they are obviously useful).

Are double-tube fittings wired this way obsolete now?

I needed some 120v ones recently (for a fly killer that uses two uv
tubes in series) and found some on ebay fairly easily.

Have you been able to find a supplier of the the old style magnetic
chokes these things seem to use? I have two dead fly killers where the
fluoros 2x 110vac magnetic ballast has burned out. The only place I
could find online advertising them did not in fact have any stock

If you tell us the tube specs, the problem should be solvable.

Its odd to have 2x 110v ballasts, 1x 240v one for the pair is more
normal.

Sorry to mislead that was from memory. The dead units are sat in the
garage. It is on checking it is a single choke driving two 18" 15W tubes
in series each with their own starter. The choke is marked Yongxin Dy-30
220-240 50Hz 2x15W 18" tubes and they are absolute crap.

Two flykillers failed about a month after their warrantee ran out in
exactly the same way - the choke is now open circuit. The HT zapper
still works fine but the flies don't visit without the blue light lure.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

In article ,
Martin Brown writes:
On 12/04/2012 23:43, NT wrote:
On Apr 12, 9:02 pm, Martin
wrote:
On 12/04/2012 19:20, Andrew Mawson wrote:

"Adam Funk" wrote in ...

I have a couple of fluorescent light fittings in the house, each
containing two fairly standard tubes and two 120 volt starters. I
know the starters need to be 120 volt ones because I discovered a few
years ago that 240 volt ones won't start the lights.

I think I need some new starters again, but every electrical&
lighting shop I've tried so far doesn't have them, and a quick WWW
search only shows them in the USA (where they are obviously useful).

Are double-tube fittings wired this way obsolete now?

I needed some 120v ones recently (for a fly killer that uses two uv
tubes in series) and found some on ebay fairly easily.

Have you been able to find a supplier of the the old style magnetic
chokes these things seem to use? I have two dead fly killers where the
fluoros 2x 110vac magnetic ballast has burned out. The only place I
could find online advertising them did not in fact have any stock

If you tell us the tube specs, the problem should be solvable.

Its odd to have 2x 110v ballasts, 1x 240v one for the pair is more
normal.

Sorry to mislead that was from memory. The dead units are sat in the
garage. It is on checking it is a single choke driving two 18" 15W tubes
in series each with their own starter. The choke is marked Yongxin Dy-30
220-240 50Hz 2x15W 18" tubes and they are absolute crap.

Two flykillers failed about a month after their warrantee ran out in
exactly the same way - the choke is now open circuit. The HT zapper
still works fine but the flies don't visit without the blue light lure.

Twin tube 18W/24" single ballast is one of the most commonly used
commercially, and starters used in these will be easily available
from any electrical wholesaler, or a good retail lighting store.
These are normally rated for 4-22W, but using starters as you go
lower down that power range becomes more wearing on the tubes,
and you will get short tube life, particularly if switched on/off
frequently. You might want to consider completely removing the
starters and ballast and replace with electronic control gear
suitable for those tubes.

Meanwhile, you could replace the tubes with a piece of raw chicken,
and you'll probably find the zapper is 10 times more effective than
it used to be...

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On 2012-04-12, NT wrote:

On Apr 12, 5:54Â*pm, Adam Funk wrote:
I have a couple of fluorescent light fittings in the house, each
containing two fairly standard tubes and two 120 volt starters. Â*I
know the starters need to be 120 volt ones because I discovered a few
years ago that 240 volt ones won't start the lights.

I think I need some new starters again, but every electrical &
lighting shop I've tried so far doesn't have them, and a quick WWW
search only shows them in the USA (where they are obviously useful).

Are double-tube fittings wired this way obsolete now?

did you use other search terms, eg series starter?

I will now, thanks. :-)

On 13/04/2012 09:43, Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In ,
Martin writes:

Sorry to mislead that was from memory. The dead units are sat in the
garage. It is on checking it is a single choke driving two 18" 15W tubes
in series each with their own starter. The choke is marked Yongxin Dy-30
220-240 50Hz 2x15W 18" tubes and they are absolute crap.

Two flykillers failed about a month after their warrantee ran out in
exactly the same way - the choke is now open circuit. The HT zapper
still works fine but the flies don't visit without the blue light lure.

Twin tube 18W/24" single ballast is one of the most commonly used
commercially, and starters used in these will be easily available
from any electrical wholesaler, or a good retail lighting store.
These are normally rated for 4-22W, but using starters as you go
lower down that power range becomes more wearing on the tubes,
and you will get short tube life, particularly if switched on/off
frequently. You might want to consider completely removing the
starters and ballast and replace with electronic control gear
suitable for those tubes.

I am unsure how the full electronic ballasts would work with a pair of
tubes in series like this - fluoro lighting gear really isn't my thing.
I just identify the dead part and try to replace like with like.

It is intrinsic that they will be switched on and off once per day.

Meanwhile, you could replace the tubes with a piece of raw chicken,
and you'll probably find the zapper is 10 times more effective than
it used to be...

I don't think the village hall committee would like that solution.
I confess I am half tempted to try a pair of 3W blue LEDs instead.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

In article ,
Martin Brown writes:
On 13/04/2012 09:43, Andrew Gabriel wrote:
Twin tube 18W/24" single ballast is one of the most commonly used
commercially, and starters used in these will be easily available
from any electrical wholesaler, or a good retail lighting store.
These are normally rated for 4-22W, but using starters as you go
lower down that power range becomes more wearing on the tubes,
and you will get short tube life, particularly if switched on/off
frequently. You might want to consider completely removing the
starters and ballast and replace with electronic control gear
suitable for those tubes.

I am unsure how the full electronic ballasts would work with a pair of
tubes in series like this - fluoro lighting gear really isn't my thing.
I just identify the dead part and try to replace like with like.

It is intrinsic that they will be switched on and off once per day.

Meanwhile, you could replace the tubes with a piece of raw chicken,
and you'll probably find the zapper is 10 times more effective than
it used to be...

I don't think the village hall committee would like that solution.
I confess I am half tempted to try a pair of 3W blue LEDs instead.

The wavelength used by most insects to navigate is actually in the
UV just outside our visible range, although insects can see our
visible blue, and to a lesser extent, our green too. I suspect the
zapper tubes are matched to this spectrum, but an LED won't be.
Also, an insect needs to see a large area of light, not a small
intense dot. Blue LEDs are a health risk to human eyes, so
considering all this, I would not suggest you try using a blue LED.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On 2012-04-13, Andrew Gabriel wrote:

Martin Brown writes:

Two flykillers failed about a month after their warrantee ran out in
exactly the same way - the choke is now open circuit. The HT zapper
still works fine but the flies don't visit without the blue light lure.
....
Meanwhile, you could replace the tubes with a piece of raw chicken,
and you'll probably find the zapper is 10 times more effective than
it used to be...

Modern proverb: "you can catch more flies with chicken than you can
with vinegar"?

On Apr 13, 4:13*pm, Martin Brown
wrote:
On 13/04/2012 09:43, Andrew Gabriel wrote:



In ,
* *Martin *writes:

Sorry to mislead that was from memory. The dead units are sat in the
garage. It is on checking it is a single choke driving two 18" 15W tubes
in series each with their own starter. The choke is marked Yongxin Dy-30
220-240 50Hz 2x15W 18" tubes and they are absolute crap.

Two flykillers failed about a month after their warrantee ran out in
exactly the same way - the choke is now open circuit. The HT zapper
still works fine but the flies don't visit without the blue light lure..

Twin tube 18W/24" single ballast is one of the most commonly used
commercially, and starters used in these will be easily available
from any electrical wholesaler, or a good retail lighting store.
These are normally rated for 4-22W, but using starters as you go
lower down that power range becomes more wearing on the tubes,
and you will get short tube life, particularly if switched on/off
frequently. You might want to consider completely removing the
starters and ballast and replace with electronic control gear
suitable for those tubes.

I am unsure how the full electronic ballasts would work with a pair of
tubes in series like this - fluoro lighting gear really isn't my thing.
I just identify the dead part and try to replace like with like.

It is intrinsic that they will be switched on and off once per day.

You just need a 30w iron lump ballast for that. I would also go the
electronic route, take 2x CFL 15w ballasts, use one to run each lamp.
Glue tiny heatsinks onto the trannies in the ballasts and they should
last a very long time.


Meanwhile, you could replace the tubes with a piece of raw chicken,
and you'll probably find the zapper is 10 times more effective than
it used to be...

I don't think the village hall committee would like that solution.
I confess I am half tempted to try a pair of 3W blue LEDs instead.

I found a small bare halogen capsule lamp worked well to attract
flies.


NT

On 2012-04-12, Heliotrope Smith wrote:

Adam Funk wrote in news:8udj59xdsg.ln2
@news.ducksburg.com:

I have a couple of fluorescent light fittings in the house, each
containing two fairly standard tubes and two 120 volt starters. I
know the starters need to be 120 volt ones because I discovered a few
years ago that 240 volt ones won't start the lights.

I think I need some new starters again, but every electrical &
lighting shop I've tried so far doesn't have them, and a quick WWW
search only shows them in the USA (where they are obviously useful).

Are double-tube fittings wired this way obsolete now?

I think FS2 starters are what you need. Have a look here.

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/BGFS2.html

Yes, they are labelled almost identically to the ones I want to
replace (except for the brand & "H-2X" instead of "FS2"), so I've
ordered several. Thanks very much for the link!