How to remove the build-up of tarry / resinous material from wood from
traditional brick chimney lining, ie not designed for wood burning - to
avoid chimney fires taking hold. Especially as the fire is not lit
continuously so presumably more resinous condensate build-up with repeatedly
cold chimneys. Sweeps brushes would only work against soot deposits

On Feb 19, 9:45 am, "N_Cook" wrote:
How to remove the build-up of tarry / resinous material from wood from
traditional brick chimney lining, ie not designed for wood burning - to
avoid chimney fires taking hold. Especially as the fire is not lit
continuously so presumably more resinous condensate build-up with repeatedly
cold chimneys. Sweeps brushes would only work against soot deposits

no idea sorry.

tho those thinking of installing stoves in old fireplaces using
existing chimneys but not lining them would do well to take note -
also certain online vendors of cheapo stoves who claim to be
"engineers"....

Jim K

Jim K wrote in message
...
On Feb 19, 9:45 am, "N_Cook" wrote:
How to remove the build-up of tarry / resinous material from wood from
traditional brick chimney lining, ie not designed for wood burning - to
avoid chimney fires taking hold. Especially as the fire is not lit
continuously so presumably more resinous condensate build-up with
repeatedly
cold chimneys. Sweeps brushes would only work against soot deposits

no idea sorry.

tho those thinking of installing stoves in old fireplaces using
existing chimneys but not lining them would do well to take note -
also certain online vendors of cheapo stoves who claim to be
"engineers"....

Jim K

The same must apply to lined chimneys - how to clean ? or is it a matter of
a controlled burn of the resinous lining to the lining, or matter of
replacing the lining after ? years ?
A live-on boat owner I once knew used to "ream" out the core of his stove
pipe with a soil auger , with the fire on, so softening the resin , but
that was only 5 or 6 foot long

Jim K wrote:
On Feb 19, 9:45 am, "N_Cook" wrote:
How to remove the build-up of tarry / resinous material from wood from
traditional brick chimney lining, ie not designed for wood burning - to
avoid chimney fires taking hold. Especially as the fire is not lit
continuously so presumably more resinous condensate build-up with repeatedly
cold chimneys. Sweeps brushes would only work against soot deposits

no idea sorry.


Normal wood fires are swept just like coal fires. In fact wood is easier
as there is more and softer ash in with the resinous stuff.


tho those thinking of installing stoves in old fireplaces using
existing chimneys but not lining them would do well to take note -
also certain online vendors of cheapo stoves who claim to be
"engineers"....


You cannot legally install wood burning *stoves* in existing open fire
chimneys. Lining is mandatory.



Jim K

On Feb 19, 4:11 pm, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:
Jim K wrote:
On Feb 19, 9:45 am, "N_Cook" wrote:
How to remove the build-up of tarry / resinous material from wood from
traditional brick chimney lining, ie not designed for wood burning - to
avoid chimney fires taking hold. Especially as the fire is not lit
continuously so presumably more resinous condensate build-up with repeatedly
cold chimneys. Sweeps brushes would only work against soot deposits

no idea sorry.

Normal wood fires are swept just like coal fires. In fact wood is easier
as there is more and softer ash in with the resinous stuff.

think the point is that the *stove* will produce less volume of
draught so the smoky stuff has more time to condense on a poorly
warmed large flue, and start the issues off...

tho those thinking of installing stoves in old fireplaces using
existing chimneys but not lining them would do well to take note -
also certain online vendors of cheapo stoves who claim to be
"engineers"....

You cannot legally install wood burning *stoves* in existing open fire
chimneys. Lining is mandatory.

mmm

BRegs Part J says under "Reuse of existing flues" they should be
checked and if necessary altered....

sounds a bit loose for "mandatory"?

Jim K

Jim K wrote:

On Feb 19, 4:11 pm, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:
Jim K wrote:
On Feb 19, 9:45 am, "N_Cook" wrote:
How to remove the build-up of tarry / resinous material from wood from
traditional brick chimney lining, ie not designed for wood burning -
to avoid chimney fires taking hold. Especially as the fire is not lit
continuously so presumably more resinous condensate build-up with
repeatedly cold chimneys. Sweeps brushes would only work against soot
deposits

no idea sorry.

Normal wood fires are swept just like coal fires. In fact wood is easier
as there is more and softer ash in with the resinous stuff.

think the point is that the *stove* will produce less volume of
draught so the smoky stuff has more time to condense on a poorly
warmed large flue, and start the issues off...

tho those thinking of installing stoves in old fireplaces using
existing chimneys but not lining them would do well to take note -
also certain online vendors of cheapo stoves who claim to be
"engineers"....

You cannot legally install wood burning *stoves* in existing open fire
chimneys. Lining is mandatory.

mmm

BRegs Part J says under "Reuse of existing flues" they should be
checked and if necessary altered....

sounds a bit loose for "mandatory"?

Jim K

You may find the manufacturer's instructions for the woodburner take
precendence and mine gave a max CSA for the flue which would only be
achieved typically with a flue liner (possible exceptions might be a very
narrow brick flue left over from a solid fuel cooker of something.


--
Tim Watts

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
Jim K wrote:
On Feb 19, 9:45 am, "N_Cook" wrote:
How to remove the build-up of tarry / resinous material from wood from
traditional brick chimney lining, ie not designed for wood burning - to
avoid chimney fires taking hold. Especially as the fire is not lit
continuously so presumably more resinous condensate build-up with
repeatedly
cold chimneys. Sweeps brushes would only work against soot deposits

no idea sorry.


Normal wood fires are swept just like coal fires. In fact wood is easier
as there is more and softer ash in with the resinous stuff.


tho those thinking of installing stoves in old fireplaces using
existing chimneys but not lining them would do well to take note -
also certain online vendors of cheapo stoves who claim to be
"engineers"....


You cannot legally install wood burning *stoves* in existing open fire
chimneys. Lining is mandatory.


Linings for chimneys acceptable for wood burning stoves include some ceramic
liners.
These have been used since the '50s on at least some chimneys.
You get a liner kit for the chimney then build brick (or whatever) around
it.
So a brick chimney without a liner is not good for a wood burner.
But many modern flues which are not single or twin wall stainless are still
O.K.
However with older chimneys it is always better to fit a stainless steel
liner just to be sure that there is no chance of tar etc. leaking through
the chimney lining.

Cheers

Dave R
--
No plan survives contact with the enemy.
[Not even bunny]

Helmuth von Moltke the Elder

(\__/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")

David WE Roberts wrote in message
...

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
Jim K wrote:
On Feb 19, 9:45 am, "N_Cook" wrote:
How to remove the build-up of tarry / resinous material from wood from
traditional brick chimney lining, ie not designed for wood burning -
to
avoid chimney fires taking hold. Especially as the fire is not lit
continuously so presumably more resinous condensate build-up with
repeatedly
cold chimneys. Sweeps brushes would only work against soot deposits

no idea sorry.


Normal wood fires are swept just like coal fires. In fact wood is easier
as there is more and softer ash in with the resinous stuff.


tho those thinking of installing stoves in old fireplaces using
existing chimneys but not lining them would do well to take note -
also certain online vendors of cheapo stoves who claim to be
"engineers"....


You cannot legally install wood burning *stoves* in existing open fire
chimneys. Lining is mandatory.


Linings for chimneys acceptable for wood burning stoves include some
ceramic
liners.
These have been used since the '50s on at least some chimneys.
You get a liner kit for the chimney then build brick (or whatever) around
it.
So a brick chimney without a liner is not good for a wood burner.
But many modern flues which are not single or twin wall stainless are
still
O.K.
However with older chimneys it is always better to fit a stainless steel
liner just to be sure that there is no chance of tar etc. leaking through
the chimney lining.

Cheers

Dave R
--
No plan survives contact with the enemy.
[Not even bunny]

Helmuth von Moltke the Elder

(\__/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")


Someone told me that the source of loft fires from chimney fire start was
roof timbers abutting the stack getting so hot that they ignite , but that
tar/resin migration plus outright mortar cracks and burning embers entering
the loft space seems to make sense

On Feb 21, 8:38*am, "N_Cook" wrote:
David WE Roberts wrote in ...







"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
Jim K wrote:
On Feb 19, 9:45 am, "N_Cook" wrote:
How to remove the build-up of tarry / resinous material from wood from
traditional brick chimney lining, ie not designed for wood burning -
to
avoid chimney fires taking hold. Especially as the fire is not lit
continuously so presumably more resinous condensate build-up with
repeatedly
cold chimneys. Sweeps brushes would only work against soot deposits

no idea sorry.

Normal wood fires are swept just like coal fires. In fact wood is easier
as there is more and softer ash in with the resinous stuff.

tho those thinking of installing stoves in old fireplaces using
existing chimneys but not lining them would do well to take note -
also certain online vendors of cheapo stoves who claim to be
"engineers"....

You cannot legally install wood burning *stoves* in existing open fire
chimneys. Lining is mandatory.

Linings for chimneys acceptable for wood burning stoves include some
ceramic
liners.
These have been used since the '50s on at least some chimneys.
You get a liner kit for the chimney then build brick (or whatever) around
it.
So a brick chimney without a liner is not good for a wood burner.
But many modern flues which are not single or twin wall stainless are
still
O.K.
However with older chimneys it is always better to fit a stainless steel
liner just to be sure that there is no chance of tar etc. leaking through
the chimney lining.

Cheers

Dave R
--
No plan survives contact with the enemy.
[Not even bunny]

Helmuth von Moltke the Elder

(\__/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")

Someone told me that the source of loft fires from chimney fire start was
roof timbers abutting the stack getting so hot that they ignite , but that
tar/resin migration plus outright mortar cracks and burning embers entering
the loft space seems to make sense- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

One some old houses the purlins are built into the stack.

On Feb 19, 9:45*am, "N_Cook" wrote:
How to remove the build-up of tarry / resinous material from wood from
traditional brick chimney lining, ie not designed for wood burning - to
avoid chimney fires taking hold. Especially as the fire is not lit
continuously so presumably more resinous condensate build-up with repeatedly
cold chimneys. Sweeps brushes would only work against soot deposits

You really need a chimney liner.
You will find that most of the tar is in the top foot of the chimney
where the combustion gases meet the cold air.
The tar varies. Some can be got off easily,some needs a hammer and
chisel.
If the chimney is lined, you can burn a small amount of tar off by
having a good blaze once a week. This doesn't work on a masonary
chimney as you can't get it hot enough.

If there is a lot of tar in the chimney and it catches fire it can
severely damage the chimney or even burn the house down.
Just like a big roman candle.
Burns metal chimneys out. Splits masonary chimneys from top to bottom.

On Feb 19, 7:33 pm, harry wrote:
On Feb 19, 9:45 am, "N_Cook" wrote:

How to remove the build-up of tarry / resinous material from wood from
traditional brick chimney lining, ie not designed for wood burning - to
avoid chimney fires taking hold. Especially as the fire is not lit
continuously so presumably more resinous condensate build-up with repeatedly
cold chimneys. Sweeps brushes would only work against soot deposits

You really need a chimney liner.
You will find that most of the tar is in the top foot of the chimney
where the combustion gases meet the cold air.

well shurely where the flue is coldest ?

The tar varies. Some can be got off easily,some needs a hammer and
chisel.
If the chimney is lined, you can burn a small amount of tar off by
having a good blaze once a week. This doesn't work on a masonary
chimney as you can't get it hot enough.

If there is a lot of tar in the chimney and it catches fire it can
severely damage the chimney or even burn the house down.
Just like a big roman candle.

but you just said you "can't" get it hot enough???

NB its "masonry"

Jim K

On Sun, 19 Feb 2012 12:19:44 -0800 (PST), Jim K
wrote:

NB its "masonry"

Only if you're a bloody American.

On Feb 20, 1:11*am, wrote:
On Sun, 19 Feb 2012 12:19:44 -0800 (PST), Jim K
wrote:

NB its "masonry"

Only if you're a bloody American.

Gets his spelling from MS "Word"

On Feb 20, 7:23 am, harry wrote:
On Feb 20, 1:11 am, wrote:

On Sun, 19 Feb 2012 12:19:44 -0800 (PST), Jim K
wrote:

NB its "masonry"

Only if you're a bloody American.

Gets his spelling from MS "Word"

along with traditional Blitish national brands which you all love:-

http://www.dulux.co.uk/products/info...onry_paint.jsp

http://www.crowntrade.co.uk/Products...onryPaint.aspx

http://www.sandtex.co.uk/featured/sa...masonry-paint/

etc

or why not try

http://dictionary.cambridge.org/spel...sh/?q=masonary

Jim K

On Feb 19, 8:19*pm, Jim K wrote:
On Feb 19, 7:33 pm, harry wrote:

On Feb 19, 9:45 am, "N_Cook" wrote:

How to remove the build-up of tarry / resinous material from wood from
traditional brick chimney lining, ie not designed for wood burning - to
avoid chimney fires taking hold. Especially as the fire is not lit
continuously so presumably more resinous condensate build-up with repeatedly
cold chimneys. Sweeps brushes would only work against soot deposits

You really need a chimney liner.
You will find that most of the tar is in the top foot of the chimney
where the combustion gases meet the cold air.

well shurely where the flue is coldest ?

The tar varies. Some can be got off easily,some needs a hammer and
chisel.
If the chimney is lined, you can burn a small amount of tar off by
having a good blaze once a week. *This doesn't work on a masonary
chimney as you can't get it hot enough.

If *there is a lot of tar in the chimney and it catches fire it can
severely damage the chimney or even burn the house down.
Just like a big roman candle.

but you just said you "can't" get it hot enough???

NB its "masonry"

Jim K

You can't get it hot enough to burn a small amount out. But I think as
it builds up a lot, it forms an insulating layer which can catch fire
with severe consequenses.
Metal liners and chimneys warm up fast and easily so you can do the
weekly blaze. All you need is a few sheets of newspaper on a good
fire.

On Feb 20, 7:22 am, harry wrote:
On Feb 19, 8:19 pm, Jim K wrote:



On Feb 19, 7:33 pm, harry wrote:

On Feb 19, 9:45 am, "N_Cook" wrote:

How to remove the build-up of tarry / resinous material from wood from
traditional brick chimney lining, ie not designed for wood burning - to
avoid chimney fires taking hold. Especially as the fire is not lit
continuously so presumably more resinous condensate build-up with repeatedly
cold chimneys. Sweeps brushes would only work against soot deposits

You really need a chimney liner.
You will find that most of the tar is in the top foot of the chimney
where the combustion gases meet the cold air.

well shurely where the flue is coldest ?

The tar varies. Some can be got off easily,some needs a hammer and
chisel.
If the chimney is lined, you can burn a small amount of tar off by
having a good blaze once a week. This doesn't work on a masonary
chimney as you can't get it hot enough.

If there is a lot of tar in the chimney and it catches fire it can
severely damage the chimney or even burn the house down.
Just like a big roman candle.

but you just said you "can't" get it hot enough???

NB its "masonry"

Jim K

You can't get it hot enough to burn a small amount out. But I think as
it builds up a lot, it forms an insulating layer which can catch fire
with severe consequenses.
Metal liners and chimneys warm up fast and easily so you can do the
weekly blaze. All you need is a few sheets of newspaper on a good
fire.

and these few sheets of newspaper are supposed to be capable of
heating up the whole length of a flue liner to a temperature where
deposits "evaporate" but not get set alight?

bollox

Jim K

On Feb 20, 3:06*pm, Jim K wrote:
On Feb 20, 7:22 am, harry wrote:





On Feb 19, 8:19 pm, Jim K wrote:

On Feb 19, 7:33 pm, harry wrote:

On Feb 19, 9:45 am, "N_Cook" wrote:

How to remove the build-up of tarry / resinous material from wood from
traditional brick chimney lining, ie not designed for wood burning - to
avoid chimney fires taking hold. Especially as the fire is not lit
continuously so presumably more resinous condensate build-up with repeatedly
cold chimneys. Sweeps brushes would only work against soot deposits

You really need a chimney liner.
You will find that most of the tar is in the top foot of the chimney
where the combustion gases meet the cold air.

well shurely where the flue is coldest ?

The tar varies. Some can be got off easily,some needs a hammer and
chisel.
If the chimney is lined, you can burn a small amount of tar off by
having a good blaze once a week. *This doesn't work on a masonary
chimney as you can't get it hot enough.

If *there is a lot of tar in the chimney and it catches fire it can
severely damage the chimney or even burn the house down.
Just like a big roman candle.

but you just said you "can't" get it hot enough???

NB its "masonry"

Jim K

You can't get it hot enough to burn a small amount out. But I think as
it builds up a lot, it forms an insulating layer which can catch fire
with severe consequenses.
Metal liners and chimneys warm up fast and easily so you can do the
weekly blaze. *All you need is a few sheets of newspaper on a good
fire.

and these few sheets of newspaper are supposed to be capable of
heating up the whole length of a flue liner to a temperature where
deposits "evaporate" but not get set alight?

bollox

Jim K- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

They burn it off. But if done regularly (eg weekly) it is a small
amount and causes no damage. But if a large amount is allowed to
accumulate and it catches fire for any reason you have a major problem.

On Feb 19, 9:45*am, "N_Cook" wrote:
How to remove the build-up of tarry / resinous material from wood from
traditional brick chimney lining, ie not designed for wood burning - to
avoid chimney fires taking hold. Especially as the fire is not lit
continuously so presumably more resinous condensate build-up with repeatedly
cold chimneys. Sweeps brushes would only work against soot deposits

By intentionally firing the chimney on a regular basis. There will
likely be a byelaw forbidding this.