Can anyone suggest a supplier of a couple of cheap'ish jacking castors
(castors that retract when not needed) to fit to a combi woodworking
machine? I need to be able to move it around the workshop but have it
secure when being used.

On Jan 18, 10:36*pm, NoSpam wrote:
Can anyone suggest a supplier of a couple of cheap'ish jacking castors
(castors that retract when not needed) to fit to a combi woodworking
machine? I need to be able to move it around the workshop but have it
secure when being used.


It's more normal to use castors with a brake fitted, easily available.
Eg
http://www.rosshandling.co.uk/

Heavy duty threaded hole fixed castors + L-angle fixed to side of
machine + Stud protruding + Couple of nut + Spanner magnet clamped to
side of machine.

Wind them down when needed, back them out when not?

Better would be a big allen socket drive bolt, weld a nut to the L-
angle, weld the bolt to the castor, just stick in a big ball-end allen
key and wind the thing up and down to bring the castor "into and out
of play".

For cars they do jo-jo jacks with a lever, and probably for other
applications - but they cost a lot.

On 19/01/2012 13:33, js.b1 wrote:
Heavy duty threaded hole fixed castors + L-angle fixed to side of
machine + Stud protruding + Couple of nut + Spanner magnet clamped to
side of machine.

Wind them down when needed, back them out when not?

Better would be a big allen socket drive bolt, weld a nut to the L-
angle, weld the bolt to the castor, just stick in a big ball-end allen
key and wind the thing up and down to bring the castor "into and out
of play".

For cars they do jo-jo jacks with a lever, and probably for other
applications - but they cost a lot.

Thanks for that, it's close to my "plan B": box section on side of
machine with a nut welded on the bottom and a hole in the top so the
studding can pass through, studding bored and tapped to take a
threaded-stem castor.
I like the idea of using cap screws but they're pretty hard so it may be
tough to bore/tap them - welding might be difficult because of the
plating on the castor but I guess I could grind it off ...
experimentation needed!

On Jan 19, 6:07*pm, NoSpam wrote:
I like the idea of using cap screws but they're pretty hard so it may be
tough to bore/tap them - welding might be difficult because of the
plating on the castor but I guess I could grind it off ...
experimentation needed!

Cap screw would work well on its own, just a bit fiddly...

Plain cap screw
!
!
Nut welded onto Box (or hand tap 10mm thick L-Angle)
!
!
Nut Backing to lock
Castor threaded

Stick a cut-down allen key in a cordless drill with clutch, whizz the
cap screw down until it bottoms on the Box/L-Angle. When done, whizz
it back up. Lot less fiddly than spanners.

On Jan 19, 9:17*pm, "js.b1" wrote:
On Jan 19, 6:07*pm, NoSpam wrote:

I like the idea of using cap screws but they're pretty hard so it may be
tough to bore/tap them - welding might be difficult because of the
plating on the castor but I guess I could grind it off ...
experimentation needed!

Cap screw would work well on its own, just a bit fiddly...

Plain cap screw
!
!
Nut welded onto Box (or hand tap 10mm thick L-Angle)
!
!
Nut Backing to lock
Castor threaded

Stick a cut-down allen key in a cordless drill with clutch, whizz the
cap screw down until it bottoms on the Box/L-Angle. When done, whizz
it back up. Lot less fiddly than spanners.

Google for Zambus or Footmaster. There are also cheaper alternatives
which these searches willl turn up.

http://www.footmastercasters.com/lev...s/gdr-60f.html



Paul Mc Cann

On Jan 20, 4:18*pm, fred wrote:
Google for Zambus or Footmaster. There are also cheaper alternatives
which these searches willl turn up.
http://www.footmastercasters.com/lev...series/gdr-60f....

Great, thanks for that. Very interesting design.

On 20/01/2012 16:18, fred wrote:
On Jan 19, 9:17 pm, wrote:
On Jan 19, 6:07 pm, wrote:

I like the idea of using cap screws but they're pretty hard so it may be
tough to bore/tap them - welding might be difficult because of the
plating on the castor but I guess I could grind it off ...
experimentation needed!

Cap screw would work well on its own, just a bit fiddly...

Plain cap screw
!
!
Nut welded onto Box (or hand tap 10mm thick L-Angle)
!
!
Nut Backing to lock
Castor threaded

Stick a cut-down allen key in a cordless drill with clutch, whizz the
cap screw down until it bottoms on the Box/L-Angle. When done, whizz
it back up. Lot less fiddly than spanners.

Google for Zambus or Footmaster. There are also cheaper alternatives
which these searches willl turn up.

http://www.footmastercasters.com/lev...s/gdr-60f.html



Paul Mc Cann

Thanks! That's a nice design but pricey in the UK