It was only serviced in April. Now it won't start. I've got the
heating engineer coming out today or tomorrow.

This is the second time it has broken down and the house was only
built in 2004. Are these boilers considered reliable? I had a gas
boiler down in Bucks and it lasted 23 years with only servicing and
the occasional thermocouple.

(Yes, there's plenty of oil left!)

MM

On Wed, 26 Oct 2011 10:03:13 +0100, MM wrote:

It was only serviced in April. Now it won't start.

Symptoms? Does the fan/pump run but it fails to light the burner? Can
you hear the arc (it's a subtle sound, so you may not recognise it)
that should ignite the oil spray a few seconds after the fan/pump
starts? If it fails to light or goes out after lighting and can't
reignite the "lockout" will be triggered. Reset it once and see if it
starts and runs again.

Has the boiler being used since April or has it now just being called
back into service for space heating?

I've got the heating engineer coming out today or tomorrow.

The same one who serviced it in April?

(Yes, there's plenty of oil left!)

And all the valves turned on and fire valve not triggered?

--
Cheers
Dave.

On Wed, 26 Oct 2011 11:42:53 +0100 (BST), "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:

On Wed, 26 Oct 2011 10:03:13 +0100, MM wrote:

It was only serviced in April. Now it won't start.

Symptoms? Does the fan/pump run but it fails to light the burner?

Nothing runs. The orange light comes on as normal.

Can
you hear the arc (it's a subtle sound, so you may not recognise it)

That's all part of the gubbins on the outside wall. I'd have to remove
the cover.

that should ignite the oil spray a few seconds after the fan/pump
starts? If it fails to light or goes out after lighting and can't
reignite the "lockout" will be triggered. Reset it once and see if it
starts and runs again.

There is no accessible reset switch. It's probably behind the outside
cover.

Has the boiler being used since April or has it now just being called
back into service for space heating?

Yes, it's used every day. Just not from last Saturday until Monday
afternoon, when I returned from a short break and switched on the
heating for hot water and it heated up ok. Then on Tuesday morning, it
wouldn't start.


I've got the heating engineer coming out today or tomorrow.

The same one who serviced it in April?

Yes.

(Yes, there's plenty of oil left!)

And all the valves turned on and fire valve not triggered?

Dunno. That's all beyond me, sorry. It's all behind the outside cover.

MM

On 26/10/2011 10:03, MM wrote:
It was only serviced in April. Now it won't start. I've got the
heating engineer coming out today or tomorrow.

This is the second time it has broken down and the house was only
built in 2004. Are these boilers considered reliable? I had a gas
boiler down in Bucks and it lasted 23 years with only servicing and
the occasional thermocouple.


Whilst there are many makes of boilers, there are relatively few make of
burners and for some reason yours is not running.

Pressing the reset button would be a good start.

Problems can be caused by poor maintenance, so it might be worth finding
out why the boiler is not going.



--
Michael Chare

On Thu, 27 Oct 2011 01:20:08 +0100, Michael Chare
mUNDERSCOREnews@chareDOTorgDOTuk wrote:

On 26/10/2011 10:03, MM wrote:
It was only serviced in April. Now it won't start. I've got the
heating engineer coming out today or tomorrow.

This is the second time it has broken down and the house was only
built in 2004. Are these boilers considered reliable? I had a gas
boiler down in Bucks and it lasted 23 years with only servicing and
the occasional thermocouple.


Whilst there are many makes of boilers, there are relatively few make of
burners and for some reason yours is not running.

Pressing the reset button would be a good start.

Problems can be caused by poor maintenance, so it might be worth finding
out why the boiler is not going.

A competent engineer serviced the boiler in April. BTW I wish I knew
where this magical reset button is! Certainly not something designed
to be operated by the customer, as it is not on the white box cover in
the garage. This has only a temperature knob MAX - MIN and two
lights, a red and an orange one. The red one has never come on. The
orange one comes on when I switch the heating on at the Drayton
controller. That's all I know.

MM

On 27/10/2011 06:36, MM wrote:
On Thu, 27 Oct 2011 01:20:08 +0100, Michael Chare
mUNDERSCOREnews@chareDOTorgDOTuk wrote:

On 26/10/2011 10:03, MM wrote:
It was only serviced in April. Now it won't start. I've got the
heating engineer coming out today or tomorrow.

This is the second time it has broken down and the house was only
built in 2004. Are these boilers considered reliable? I had a gas
boiler down in Bucks and it lasted 23 years with only servicing and
the occasional thermocouple.


Whilst there are many makes of boilers, there are relatively few make of
burners and for some reason yours is not running.

Pressing the reset button would be a good start.

Problems can be caused by poor maintenance, so it might be worth finding
out why the boiler is not going.

A competent engineer serviced the boiler in April. BTW I wish I knew
where this magical reset button is! Certainly not something designed
to be operated by the customer, as it is not on the white box cover in
the garage. This has only a temperature knob MAX - MIN and two
lights, a red and an orange one. The red one has never come on. The
orange one comes on when I switch the heating on at the Drayton
controller. That's all I know.

MM

The rest button is typically red and part of the controller on the
burner itself. If you can find the electric motor and the oil pump you
should also be able to find the controller

Top left button in this picture for example.

http://www.rielloburners.co.uk/index...n=99&page=1185

Alternatively read the manual for the boiler or burner.



--
Michael Chare

On Oct 27, 6:36*am, MM wrote:
On Thu, 27 Oct 2011 01:20:08 +0100, Michael Chare





mUNDERSCOREnews@chareDOTorgDOTuk wrote:
On 26/10/2011 10:03, MM wrote:
It was only serviced in April. Now it won't start. I've got the
heating engineer coming out today or tomorrow.

This is the second time it has broken down and the house was only
built in 2004. Are these boilers considered reliable? I had a gas
boiler down in Bucks and it lasted 23 years with only servicing and
the occasional thermocouple.

Whilst there are many makes of boilers, there are relatively few make of
burners and for some reason yours is not running.

Pressing the reset button would be a good start.

Problems can be caused by poor maintenance, so it might be worth finding
out why the boiler is not going.

A competent engineer serviced the boiler in April. BTW I wish I knew
where this magical reset button is! Certainly not something designed
to be operated by the customer, as it is not on the white box cover in
the garage. This has only a temperature knob MAX *- *MIN and two
lights, a red and an orange one. The red one has never come on. The
orange one comes on when I switch the heating on at the Drayton
controller. That's all I know.

MM- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Considering this is DIY group you could help yourself by looking at
the manual - see

http://www.hrmboilers.co.uk/images/P...tarmanual2.pdf

The burner lockout button is shown on the picture on page 8 or page 30
and will be illuminated when the power is on and the system is calling
for heat. Press it and the unit should try to start up. Don't have
your face in front of the flue while it does!

The outer external cover is either held by 1/4 turn DZUS type fixings
or lifts off on keyhole slots over stud heads (if my memory serves me
correctly). You would do well to learn how to check for burner lockout
and which button to press if it happens.
Even new cars very occasionally do not start first time so look on a
boiler as having the same level of risk of not starting. It may be you
do have a mechanical problem but it could equally be that it was just
a misfire.

On Thu, 27 Oct 2011 19:50:55 +0100, Michael Chare
mUNDERSCOREnews@chareDOTorgDOTuk wrote:

On 27/10/2011 06:36, MM wrote:
On Thu, 27 Oct 2011 01:20:08 +0100, Michael Chare
mUNDERSCOREnews@chareDOTorgDOTuk wrote:

On 26/10/2011 10:03, MM wrote:
It was only serviced in April. Now it won't start. I've got the
heating engineer coming out today or tomorrow.

This is the second time it has broken down and the house was only
built in 2004. Are these boilers considered reliable? I had a gas
boiler down in Bucks and it lasted 23 years with only servicing and
the occasional thermocouple.


Whilst there are many makes of boilers, there are relatively few make of
burners and for some reason yours is not running.

Pressing the reset button would be a good start.

Problems can be caused by poor maintenance, so it might be worth finding
out why the boiler is not going.

A competent engineer serviced the boiler in April. BTW I wish I knew
where this magical reset button is! Certainly not something designed
to be operated by the customer, as it is not on the white box cover in
the garage. This has only a temperature knob MAX - MIN and two
lights, a red and an orange one. The red one has never come on. The
orange one comes on when I switch the heating on at the Drayton
controller. That's all I know.

MM

The rest button is typically red and part of the controller on the
burner itself. If you can find the electric motor and the oil pump you
should also be able to find the controller

Top left button in this picture for example.

http://www.rielloburners.co.uk/index...n=99&page=1185

Alternatively read the manual for the boiler or burner.

All that 'gubbins' is behind the outside cover which is firmly screwed
on and not intended to be removed by the customer.

MM

On Thu, 27 Oct 2011 13:04:04 -0700 (PDT), cynic
wrote:

On Oct 27, 6:36*am, MM wrote:
On Thu, 27 Oct 2011 01:20:08 +0100, Michael Chare





mUNDERSCOREnews@chareDOTorgDOTuk wrote:
On 26/10/2011 10:03, MM wrote:
It was only serviced in April. Now it won't start. I've got the
heating engineer coming out today or tomorrow.

This is the second time it has broken down and the house was only
built in 2004. Are these boilers considered reliable? I had a gas
boiler down in Bucks and it lasted 23 years with only servicing and
the occasional thermocouple.

Whilst there are many makes of boilers, there are relatively few make of
burners and for some reason yours is not running.

Pressing the reset button would be a good start.

Problems can be caused by poor maintenance, so it might be worth finding
out why the boiler is not going.

A competent engineer serviced the boiler in April. BTW I wish I knew
where this magical reset button is! Certainly not something designed
to be operated by the customer, as it is not on the white box cover in
the garage. This has only a temperature knob MAX *- *MIN and two
lights, a red and an orange one. The red one has never come on. The
orange one comes on when I switch the heating on at the Drayton
controller. That's all I know.

MM- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Considering this is DIY group you could help yourself by looking at
the manual - see

http://www.hrmboilers.co.uk/images/P...tarmanual2.pdf

The burner lockout button is shown on the picture on page 8 or page 30
and will be illuminated when the power is on and the system is calling
for heat. Press it and the unit should try to start up. Don't have
your face in front of the flue while it does!

The outer external cover is either held by 1/4 turn DZUS type fixings
or lifts off on keyhole slots over stud heads (if my memory serves me
correctly). You would do well to learn how to check for burner lockout
and which button to press if it happens.
Even new cars very occasionally do not start first time so look on a
boiler as having the same level of risk of not starting. It may be you
do have a mechanical problem but it could equally be that it was just
a misfire.

I don't have a clue about boilers and may do more harm than good. I'll
wait for the engineer, who is coming later this morning. It's not a
problem as my water tank in the airing cupboard has a backup immersion
heater. In fact, I'm just about to have a bath! (I calculated the
comparison costs yesterday between oil and electricity and there's
only a few pence difference per bathful.)

MM

MM wrote:
On Thu, 27 Oct 2011 19:50:55 +0100, Michael Chare
mUNDERSCOREnews@chareDOTorgDOTuk wrote:

The rest button is typically red and part of the controller on the
burner itself. If you can find the electric motor and the oil pump
you should also be able to find the controller

Top left button in this picture for example.

http://www.rielloburners.co.uk/index...n=99&page=1185

Alternatively read the manual for the boiler or burner.

All that 'gubbins' is behind the outside cover which is firmly screwed
on and not intended to be removed by the customer.

Begs the question why you posted in a DIY group then. "Firmly screwed" does
not equal "not intended to be removed by customer". It just means it's
designed not to fall apart. I've opened my CH boiler heaps of times in the
past and I have no formal qualifications to do this. I do know which end of
a screwdriver to hold though and I can read a service manual.

Boilers aren't rocket science. If you're happy living without CH and being
totally dependant on "professionals" to help you out every time your boiler
goes on the blink then fair enough but you've been offered good advice and
seem determined to reject it.

Tim

On Fri, 28 Oct 2011 10:44:02 +0100, "Tim Downie"
wrote:

MM wrote:
On Thu, 27 Oct 2011 19:50:55 +0100, Michael Chare
mUNDERSCOREnews@chareDOTorgDOTuk wrote:

The rest button is typically red and part of the controller on the
burner itself. If you can find the electric motor and the oil pump
you should also be able to find the controller

Top left button in this picture for example.

http://www.rielloburners.co.uk/index...n=99&page=1185

Alternatively read the manual for the boiler or burner.

All that 'gubbins' is behind the outside cover which is firmly screwed
on and not intended to be removed by the customer.

Begs the question why you posted in a DIY group then.

To get feedback on the reliability of the Wallstar, as my original
post stated.

MM

On Fri, 28 Oct 2011 10:44:02 +0100, "Tim Downie"
wrote:

MM wrote:
On Thu, 27 Oct 2011 19:50:55 +0100, Michael Chare
mUNDERSCOREnews@chareDOTorgDOTuk wrote:

The rest button is typically red and part of the controller on the
burner itself. If you can find the electric motor and the oil pump
you should also be able to find the controller

Top left button in this picture for example.

http://www.rielloburners.co.uk/index...n=99&page=1185

Alternatively read the manual for the boiler or burner.

All that 'gubbins' is behind the outside cover which is firmly screwed
on and not intended to be removed by the customer.

Begs the question why you posted in a DIY group then. "Firmly screwed" does
not equal "not intended to be removed by customer". It just means it's
designed not to fall apart. I've opened my CH boiler heaps of times in the
past and I have no formal qualifications to do this. I do know which end of
a screwdriver to hold though and I can read a service manual.

Good for you!

Boilers aren't rocket science. If you're happy living without CH and being
totally dependant on "professionals" to help you out every time your boiler
goes on the blink then fair enough but you've been offered good advice and
seem determined to reject it.

I didn't ask for advice on how to fix it, I asked about the
reliability of the Wallstar. In my original post I stated I had
arranged for the engineer to come out, which I would be unlikely to
have done if I had any desire whatsoever to fix it myself.

MM

On 28/10/2011 13:55, MM wrote:
On Fri, 28 Oct 2011 10:44:02 +0100, "Tim Downie"
wrote:

MM wrote:
On Thu, 27 Oct 2011 19:50:55 +0100, Michael Chare
mUNDERSCOREnews@chareDOTorgDOTuk wrote:

The rest button is typically red and part of the controller on the
burner itself. If you can find the electric motor and the oil pump
you should also be able to find the controller

Top left button in this picture for example.

http://www.rielloburners.co.uk/index...n=99&page=1185

Alternatively read the manual for the boiler or burner.

All that 'gubbins' is behind the outside cover which is firmly screwed
on and not intended to be removed by the customer.

Begs the question why you posted in a DIY group then. "Firmly screwed" does
not equal "not intended to be removed by customer". It just means it's
designed not to fall apart. I've opened my CH boiler heaps of times in the
past and I have no formal qualifications to do this. I do know which end of
a screwdriver to hold though and I can read a service manual.

Good for you!

Boilers aren't rocket science. If you're happy living without CH and being
totally dependant on "professionals" to help you out every time your boiler
goes on the blink then fair enough but you've been offered good advice and
seem determined to reject it.

I didn't ask for advice on how to fix it, I asked about the
reliability of the Wallstar. In my original post I stated I had
arranged for the engineer to come out, which I would be unlikely to
have done if I had any desire whatsoever to fix it myself.

MM

With respect this is a DIY group. Anyone not willing to get their hands
dirty should expect some derision.

In many instances a problem can be solved quite easily with a minimum
number of tools.

On Fri, 28 Oct 2011 15:02:01 +0100, Fredxx wrote:

On 28/10/2011 13:55, MM wrote:
On Fri, 28 Oct 2011 10:44:02 +0100, "Tim Downie"
wrote:

MM wrote:
On Thu, 27 Oct 2011 19:50:55 +0100, Michael Chare
mUNDERSCOREnews@chareDOTorgDOTuk wrote:

The rest button is typically red and part of the controller on the
burner itself. If you can find the electric motor and the oil pump
you should also be able to find the controller

Top left button in this picture for example.

http://www.rielloburners.co.uk/index...n=99&page=1185

Alternatively read the manual for the boiler or burner.

All that 'gubbins' is behind the outside cover which is firmly screwed
on and not intended to be removed by the customer.

Begs the question why you posted in a DIY group then. "Firmly screwed" does
not equal "not intended to be removed by customer". It just means it's
designed not to fall apart. I've opened my CH boiler heaps of times in the
past and I have no formal qualifications to do this. I do know which end of
a screwdriver to hold though and I can read a service manual.

Good for you!

Boilers aren't rocket science. If you're happy living without CH and being
totally dependant on "professionals" to help you out every time your boiler
goes on the blink then fair enough but you've been offered good advice and
seem determined to reject it.

I didn't ask for advice on how to fix it, I asked about the
reliability of the Wallstar. In my original post I stated I had
arranged for the engineer to come out, which I would be unlikely to
have done if I had any desire whatsoever to fix it myself.

MM

With respect this is a DIY group. Anyone not willing to get their hands
dirty should expect some derision.

I DID get my hands dirty! I had to go into the garage to look at the
boiler lights.

In many instances a problem can be solved quite easily with a minimum
number of tools.

Yes, if you know what you're doing. With boilers, I don't.

MM

"MM" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 27 Oct 2011 13:04:04 -0700 (PDT), cynic
wrote:

On Oct 27, 6:36 am, MM wrote:
On Thu, 27 Oct 2011 01:20:08 +0100, Michael Chare





mUNDERSCOREnews@chareDOTorgDOTuk wrote:
On 26/10/2011 10:03, MM wrote:
It was only serviced in April. Now it won't start. I've got the
heating engineer coming out today or tomorrow.

This is the second time it has broken down and the house was only
built in 2004. Are these boilers considered reliable? I had a gas
boiler down in Bucks and it lasted 23 years with only servicing and
the occasional thermocouple.

Whilst there are many makes of boilers, there are relatively few make
of
burners and for some reason yours is not running.

Pressing the reset button would be a good start.

Problems can be caused by poor maintenance, so it might be worth
finding
out why the boiler is not going.

A competent engineer serviced the boiler in April. BTW I wish I knew
where this magical reset button is! Certainly not something designed
to be operated by the customer, as it is not on the white box cover in
the garage. This has only a temperature knob MAX - MIN and two
lights, a red and an orange one. The red one has never come on. The
orange one comes on when I switch the heating on at the Drayton
controller. That's all I know.

MM- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Considering this is DIY group you could help yourself by looking at
the manual - see

http://www.hrmboilers.co.uk/images/P...tarmanual2.pdf

The burner lockout button is shown on the picture on page 8 or page 30
and will be illuminated when the power is on and the system is calling
for heat. Press it and the unit should try to start up. Don't have
your face in front of the flue while it does!

The outer external cover is either held by 1/4 turn DZUS type fixings
or lifts off on keyhole slots over stud heads (if my memory serves me
correctly). You would do well to learn how to check for burner lockout
and which button to press if it happens.
Even new cars very occasionally do not start first time so look on a
boiler as having the same level of risk of not starting. It may be you
do have a mechanical problem but it could equally be that it was just
a misfire.

I don't have a clue about boilers and may do more harm than good. I'll
wait for the engineer, who is coming later this morning. It's not a
problem as my water tank in the airing cupboard has a backup immersion
heater. In fact, I'm just about to have a bath! (I calculated the
comparison costs yesterday between oil and electricity and there's
only a few pence difference per bathful.)


So what was the fault?

Michael Chare

On Fri, 28 Oct 2011 15:02:01 +0100, Fredxx wrote:

On 28/10/2011 13:55, MM wrote:
On Fri, 28 Oct 2011 10:44:02 +0100, "Tim Downie"
wrote:

MM wrote:
On Thu, 27 Oct 2011 19:50:55 +0100, Michael Chare
mUNDERSCOREnews@chareDOTorgDOTuk wrote:

The rest button is typically red and part of the controller on the
burner itself. If you can find the electric motor and the oil pump
you should also be able to find the controller

Top left button in this picture for example.

http://www.rielloburners.co.uk/index...n=99&page=1185

Alternatively read the manual for the boiler or burner.

All that 'gubbins' is behind the outside cover which is firmly screwed
on and not intended to be removed by the customer.

Begs the question why you posted in a DIY group then. "Firmly screwed" does
not equal "not intended to be removed by customer". It just means it's
designed not to fall apart. I've opened my CH boiler heaps of times in the
past and I have no formal qualifications to do this. I do know which end of
a screwdriver to hold though and I can read a service manual.

Good for you!

Boilers aren't rocket science. If you're happy living without CH and being
totally dependant on "professionals" to help you out every time your boiler
goes on the blink then fair enough but you've been offered good advice and
seem determined to reject it.

I didn't ask for advice on how to fix it, I asked about the
reliability of the Wallstar. In my original post I stated I had
arranged for the engineer to come out, which I would be unlikely to
have done if I had any desire whatsoever to fix it myself.

MM

With respect this is a DIY group. Anyone not willing to get their hands
dirty should expect some derision.

In many instances a problem can be solved quite easily with a minimum
number of tools.

Engineer called and spent half an hour checking the boiler, which he
said had "locked out". He put his manometer on to test the pump
pressure, which was fine. He even spread some gunk on a bamboo dipping
rod to see whether the tank had any water in it. It didn't. I asked
him what that was all about, and this is gunk that comes in a tube
that is 18 quid a go and turns pink if there is any water. We flushed
the rod under my garden tap so that I could see the effect.
Astonishing! He waited for a good 20 minutes with the boiler running
for hot water AND heating (normally I use the heating circuit very
little) to see if it would lock out again once it got warm, but it ran
sweet as a nut. He pulled out a long black probe with a light cell on
the end to demonstrate how the boiler is supposed to respond in the
case of a fault. I've used this guy before and he really knows
boilers! He didn't charge me a penny. The service he did in March (it
was March, not April as I had previously said) was £65. Good, eh!

MM

On Fri, 28 Oct 2011 21:56:28 +0100, "Michael Chare"
wrote:

"MM" wrote in message
.. .
On Thu, 27 Oct 2011 13:04:04 -0700 (PDT), cynic
wrote:

On Oct 27, 6:36 am, MM wrote:
On Thu, 27 Oct 2011 01:20:08 +0100, Michael Chare





mUNDERSCOREnews@chareDOTorgDOTuk wrote:
On 26/10/2011 10:03, MM wrote:
It was only serviced in April. Now it won't start. I've got the
heating engineer coming out today or tomorrow.

This is the second time it has broken down and the house was only
built in 2004. Are these boilers considered reliable? I had a gas
boiler down in Bucks and it lasted 23 years with only servicing and
the occasional thermocouple.

Whilst there are many makes of boilers, there are relatively few make
of
burners and for some reason yours is not running.

Pressing the reset button would be a good start.

Problems can be caused by poor maintenance, so it might be worth
finding
out why the boiler is not going.

A competent engineer serviced the boiler in April. BTW I wish I knew
where this magical reset button is! Certainly not something designed
to be operated by the customer, as it is not on the white box cover in
the garage. This has only a temperature knob MAX - MIN and two
lights, a red and an orange one. The red one has never come on. The
orange one comes on when I switch the heating on at the Drayton
controller. That's all I know.

MM- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Considering this is DIY group you could help yourself by looking at
the manual - see

http://www.hrmboilers.co.uk/images/P...tarmanual2.pdf

The burner lockout button is shown on the picture on page 8 or page 30
and will be illuminated when the power is on and the system is calling
for heat. Press it and the unit should try to start up. Don't have
your face in front of the flue while it does!

The outer external cover is either held by 1/4 turn DZUS type fixings
or lifts off on keyhole slots over stud heads (if my memory serves me
correctly). You would do well to learn how to check for burner lockout
and which button to press if it happens.
Even new cars very occasionally do not start first time so look on a
boiler as having the same level of risk of not starting. It may be you
do have a mechanical problem but it could equally be that it was just
a misfire.

I don't have a clue about boilers and may do more harm than good. I'll
wait for the engineer, who is coming later this morning. It's not a
problem as my water tank in the airing cupboard has a backup immersion
heater. In fact, I'm just about to have a bath! (I calculated the
comparison costs yesterday between oil and electricity and there's
only a few pence difference per bathful.)


So what was the fault?

Michael Chare

See latest post 2 mins ago.

MM

What astonishes me is the lack of any indicator light to show that the
heater has actually fired and is on. There are all these myriad
fail-safe devices inside the boiler, there's a couple of lights on the
front of the white box in the garage, but there is NOthing to indicate
whether the boiler has *actually* started.

I have to either open up the garage and listen, or I need to unlock
the rear door from the annex and traipise outside to the wall unit and
hear it start up.

A cheapo Maplin/Velleman-style solution would be a doddle to install.
Simply have a light that flashes when cold and goes stable when warmed
up. The sensor, near the warm air exhaust, would warm up in no time.

MM

MM wrote:

Engineer called and spent half an hour checking the boiler, which he
said had "locked out".

Suppose it it's just done it once you'll have to put it down as 'one of
those things'.

He even spread some gunk on a bamboo dipping
rod to see whether the tank had any water in it. It didn't. I asked
him what that was all about, and this is gunk that comes in a tube
that is 18 quid a go and turns pink if there is any water. We flushed
the rod under my garden tap so that I could see the effect.
Astonishing!

Anhydrous Cobalt Chloride?

I've used this guy before and he really knows
boilers! He didn't charge me a penny. The service he did in March (it
was March, not April as I had previously said) was £65. Good, eh!

Sounds a decent chap, give him a name-check ...

In article , MM
scribeth thus
What astonishes me is the lack of any indicator light to show that the
heater has actually fired and is on. There are all these myriad
fail-safe devices inside the boiler, there's a couple of lights on the
front of the white box in the garage, but there is NOthing to indicate
whether the boiler has *actually* started.

I have to either open up the garage and listen, or I need to unlock
the rear door from the annex and traipise outside to the wall unit and
hear it start up.

A cheapo Maplin/Velleman-style solution would be a doddle to install.
Simply have a light that flashes when cold and goes stable when warmed
up. The sensor, near the warm air exhaust, would warm up in no time.

MM

Did that years ago on the olde system lights to show which heating
circuit was operating, further lights for fan and pump, and a
thermometer for outgoing flow, incoming flow and exhaust gas temp.

Took it all out when we upgraded but miss it now;!....
--
Tony Sayer

On Sat, 29 Oct 2011 10:01:15 +0100, Andy Burns
wrote:

MM wrote:

Engineer called and spent half an hour checking the boiler, which he
said had "locked out".

Suppose it it's just done it once you'll have to put it down as 'one of
those things'.

He said it just happens sometimes. I asked him whether these boilers
are designed to be run pretty much every day and he said, yes. They're
not intended to be left off for long periods. He did say in future I
could remove the outside cover and press the button on the transparent
cover. But if it happens frequently, i.e. more than twice a year, then
it needs to get checked out.

He even spread some gunk on a bamboo dipping
rod to see whether the tank had any water in it. It didn't. I asked
him what that was all about, and this is gunk that comes in a tube
that is 18 quid a go and turns pink if there is any water. We flushed
the rod under my garden tap so that I could see the effect.
Astonishing!

Anhydrous Cobalt Chloride?

No idea. Brownish gunk from a tube.

I've used this guy before and he really knows
boilers! He didn't charge me a penny. The service he did in March (it
was March, not April as I had previously said) was £65. Good, eh!

Sounds a decent chap, give him a name-check ...

I don't know whether he'd agree to that, so no.

MM

On Sat, 29 Oct 2011 10:14:56 +0100, tony sayer
wrote:

In article , MM
scribeth thus
What astonishes me is the lack of any indicator light to show that the
heater has actually fired and is on. There are all these myriad
fail-safe devices inside the boiler, there's a couple of lights on the
front of the white box in the garage, but there is NOthing to indicate
whether the boiler has *actually* started.

I have to either open up the garage and listen, or I need to unlock
the rear door from the annex and traipise outside to the wall unit and
hear it start up.

A cheapo Maplin/Velleman-style solution would be a doddle to install.
Simply have a light that flashes when cold and goes stable when warmed
up. The sensor, near the warm air exhaust, would warm up in no time.

MM

Did that years ago on the olde system lights to show which heating
circuit was operating, further lights for fan and pump, and a
thermometer for outgoing flow, incoming flow and exhaust gas temp.

Took it all out when we upgraded but miss it now;!....

I've found a temperature sensor kit in the Maplin catalogue. Might get
one, as I've built several different kits. Possible problem with the
high temperature, since I doubt Velleman intended it for temperature
ranges like the hot air exhaust from a boiler. But could maybe have a
piece of thin copper wire, e.g. a bit of stripped mains cable, in or
near the exhaust which would conduct enough heat to trigger the
sensor.

MM

On 29/10/2011 09:21, MM wrote:
What astonishes me is the lack of any indicator light to show that the
heater has actually fired and is on. There are all these myriad
fail-safe devices inside the boiler, there's a couple of lights on the
front of the white box in the garage, but there is NOthing to indicate
whether the boiler has *actually* started.

I have to either open up the garage and listen, or I need to unlock
the rear door from the annex and traipise outside to the wall unit and
hear it start up.

A cheapo Maplin/Velleman-style solution would be a doddle to install.
Simply have a light that flashes when cold and goes stable when warmed
up. The sensor, near the warm air exhaust, would warm up in no time.

MM


My boiler has an indicator light to show when it ought to be running,
and another to show if a lockout has occurred. Since the boiler is in
the house it is normally obvious when it is going.

All the boilers I have owned have had lockout lights. You can then press
the rest button and try again.

However usually when a lockout occurs there is an underlying cause which
has to be resolved.

I you have a control panel in you house, there ought to be a lockout
light (IME).


--
Michael Chare

MM wrote:
On Fri, 28 Oct 2011 15:02:01 +0100, Fredxx wrote:

On 28/10/2011 13:55, MM wrote:
On Fri, 28 Oct 2011 10:44:02 +0100, "Tim Downie"
wrote:

MM wrote:
On Thu, 27 Oct 2011 19:50:55 +0100, Michael Chare
mUNDERSCOREnews@chareDOTorgDOTuk wrote:

The rest button is typically red and part of the controller on
the burner itself. If you can find the electric motor and the
oil pump you should also be able to find the controller

Top left button in this picture for example.

http://www.rielloburners.co.uk/index...n=99&page=1185

Alternatively read the manual for the boiler or burner.

All that 'gubbins' is behind the outside cover which is firmly
screwed on and not intended to be removed by the customer.

Begs the question why you posted in a DIY group then. "Firmly
screwed" does not equal "not intended to be removed by customer".
It just means it's designed not to fall apart. I've opened my CH
boiler heaps of times in the past and I have no formal
qualifications to do this. I do know which end of a screwdriver
to hold though and I can read a service manual.

Good for you!

Boilers aren't rocket science. If you're happy living without CH
and being totally dependant on "professionals" to help you out
every time your boiler goes on the blink then fair enough but
you've been offered good advice and seem determined to reject it.

I didn't ask for advice on how to fix it, I asked about the
reliability of the Wallstar. In my original post I stated I had
arranged for the engineer to come out, which I would be unlikely to
have done if I had any desire whatsoever to fix it myself.

MM

With respect this is a DIY group. Anyone not willing to get their
hands dirty should expect some derision.

I DID get my hands dirty! I had to go into the garage to look at the
boiler lights.

In many instances a problem can be solved quite easily with a minimum
number of tools.

Yes, if you know what you're doing. With boilers, I don't.

Stop being such a defeatist.

You said the boiler had broken down and it had not.

--
Adam

On Sat, 29 Oct 2011 16:36:10 +0100, Michael Chare
mUNDERSCOREnews@chareDOTorgDOTuk wrote:

On 29/10/2011 09:21, MM wrote:
What astonishes me is the lack of any indicator light to show that the
heater has actually fired and is on. There are all these myriad
fail-safe devices inside the boiler, there's a couple of lights on the
front of the white box in the garage, but there is NOthing to indicate
whether the boiler has *actually* started.

I have to either open up the garage and listen, or I need to unlock
the rear door from the annex and traipise outside to the wall unit and
hear it start up.

A cheapo Maplin/Velleman-style solution would be a doddle to install.
Simply have a light that flashes when cold and goes stable when warmed
up. The sensor, near the warm air exhaust, would warm up in no time.

MM


My boiler has an indicator light to show when it ought to be running,
and another to show if a lockout has occurred. Since the boiler is in
the house it is normally obvious when it is going.

All the boilers I have owned have had lockout lights. You can then press
the rest button and try again.

However usually when a lockout occurs there is an underlying cause which
has to be resolved.

I you have a control panel in you house, there ought to be a lockout
light (IME).

There is none. The engineer always removes the outside cover to check
whether it's locked out.

MM

On Sat, 29 Oct 2011 17:13:38 +0100, "ARWadsworth"
wrote:

MM wrote:
On Fri, 28 Oct 2011 15:02:01 +0100, Fredxx wrote:

On 28/10/2011 13:55, MM wrote:
On Fri, 28 Oct 2011 10:44:02 +0100, "Tim Downie"
wrote:

MM wrote:
On Thu, 27 Oct 2011 19:50:55 +0100, Michael Chare
mUNDERSCOREnews@chareDOTorgDOTuk wrote:

The rest button is typically red and part of the controller on
the burner itself. If you can find the electric motor and the
oil pump you should also be able to find the controller

Top left button in this picture for example.

http://www.rielloburners.co.uk/index...n=99&page=1185

Alternatively read the manual for the boiler or burner.

All that 'gubbins' is behind the outside cover which is firmly
screwed on and not intended to be removed by the customer.

Begs the question why you posted in a DIY group then. "Firmly
screwed" does not equal "not intended to be removed by customer".
It just means it's designed not to fall apart. I've opened my CH
boiler heaps of times in the past and I have no formal
qualifications to do this. I do know which end of a screwdriver
to hold though and I can read a service manual.

Good for you!

Boilers aren't rocket science. If you're happy living without CH
and being totally dependant on "professionals" to help you out
every time your boiler goes on the blink then fair enough but
you've been offered good advice and seem determined to reject it.

I didn't ask for advice on how to fix it, I asked about the
reliability of the Wallstar. In my original post I stated I had
arranged for the engineer to come out, which I would be unlikely to
have done if I had any desire whatsoever to fix it myself.

MM

With respect this is a DIY group. Anyone not willing to get their
hands dirty should expect some derision.

I DID get my hands dirty! I had to go into the garage to look at the
boiler lights.

In many instances a problem can be solved quite easily with a minimum
number of tools.

Yes, if you know what you're doing. With boilers, I don't.

Stop being such a defeatist.

You said the boiler had broken down and it had not.

Er, yes, it had. There was no hot water and no central heating because
the burner would not fire. I wasn't about to risk setting my house on
fire, dabbling with stuff I wasn't comfortable with, just as I'd never
interfere with any gas installation, either.

MM

On 29/10/2011 17:46, MM wrote:
On Sat, 29 Oct 2011 16:36:10 +0100, Michael Chare
mUNDERSCOREnews@chareDOTorgDOTuk wrote:

On 29/10/2011 09:21, MM wrote:
What astonishes me is the lack of any indicator light to show that the
heater has actually fired and is on. There are all these myriad
fail-safe devices inside the boiler, there's a couple of lights on the
front of the white box in the garage, but there is NOthing to indicate
whether the boiler has *actually* started.

I have to either open up the garage and listen, or I need to unlock
the rear door from the annex and traipise outside to the wall unit and
hear it start up.

A cheapo Maplin/Velleman-style solution would be a doddle to install.
Simply have a light that flashes when cold and goes stable when warmed
up. The sensor, near the warm air exhaust, would warm up in no time.

MM


My boiler has an indicator light to show when it ought to be running,
and another to show if a lockout has occurred. Since the boiler is in
the house it is normally obvious when it is going.

All the boilers I have owned have had lockout lights. You can then press
the rest button and try again.

However usually when a lockout occurs there is an underlying cause which
has to be resolved.

I you have a control panel in you house, there ought to be a lockout
light (IME).

There is none. The engineer always removes the outside cover to check
whether it's locked out.

MM


I would think that you could probably add a remote lockout warning light
if you don't mind amending the wiring to the boiler.

--
Michael Chare

In message , MM
writes
On Sat, 29 Oct 2011 17:13:38 +0100, "ARWadsworth"
wrote:

MM wrote:
On Fri, 28 Oct 2011 15:02:01 +0100, Fredxx wrote:

On 28/10/2011 13:55, MM wrote:
On Fri, 28 Oct 2011 10:44:02 +0100, "Tim Downie"
wrote:

MM wrote:
On Thu, 27 Oct 2011 19:50:55 +0100, Michael Chare
mUNDERSCOREnews@chareDOTorgDOTuk wrote:

The rest button is typically red and part of the controller on
the burner itself. If you can find the electric motor and the
oil pump you should also be able to find the controller

Top left button in this picture for example.

http://www.rielloburners.co.uk/index...n=99&page=1185

Alternatively read the manual for the boiler or burner.

All that 'gubbins' is behind the outside cover which is firmly
screwed on and not intended to be removed by the customer.

Begs the question why you posted in a DIY group then. "Firmly
screwed" does not equal "not intended to be removed by customer".
It just means it's designed not to fall apart. I've opened my CH
boiler heaps of times in the past and I have no formal
qualifications to do this. I do know which end of a screwdriver
to hold though and I can read a service manual.

Good for you!

Boilers aren't rocket science. If you're happy living without CH
and being totally dependant on "professionals" to help you out
every time your boiler goes on the blink then fair enough but
you've been offered good advice and seem determined to reject it.

I didn't ask for advice on how to fix it, I asked about the
reliability of the Wallstar. In my original post I stated I had
arranged for the engineer to come out, which I would be unlikely to
have done if I had any desire whatsoever to fix it myself.

MM

With respect this is a DIY group. Anyone not willing to get their
hands dirty should expect some derision.

I DID get my hands dirty! I had to go into the garage to look at the
boiler lights.

In many instances a problem can be solved quite easily with a minimum
number of tools.

Yes, if you know what you're doing. With boilers, I don't.

Stop being such a defeatist.

You said the boiler had broken down and it had not.

Er, yes, it had. There was no hot water and no central heating because
the burner would not fire. I wasn't about to risk setting my house on
fire,


You're always posting how damp and cold it is, you shouldn't have a
problem there

--
geoff

In message , Michael
Chare writes
On 29/10/2011 17:46, MM wrote:
On Sat, 29 Oct 2011 16:36:10 +0100, Michael Chare
mUNDERSCOREnews@chareDOTorgDOTuk wrote:

On 29/10/2011 09:21, MM wrote:
What astonishes me is the lack of any indicator light to show that the
heater has actually fired and is on. There are all these myriad
fail-safe devices inside the boiler, there's a couple of lights on the
front of the white box in the garage, but there is NOthing to indicate
whether the boiler has *actually* started.

I have to either open up the garage and listen, or I need to unlock
the rear door from the annex and traipise outside to the wall unit and
hear it start up.

A cheapo Maplin/Velleman-style solution would be a doddle to install.
Simply have a light that flashes when cold and goes stable when warmed
up. The sensor, near the warm air exhaust, would warm up in no time.

MM


My boiler has an indicator light to show when it ought to be running,
and another to show if a lockout has occurred. Since the boiler is in
the house it is normally obvious when it is going.

All the boilers I have owned have had lockout lights. You can then press
the rest button and try again.

However usually when a lockout occurs there is an underlying cause which
has to be resolved.

I you have a control panel in you house, there ought to be a lockout
light (IME).

There is none. The engineer always removes the outside cover to check
whether it's locked out.

MM


I would think that you could probably add a remote lockout warning
light if you don't mind amending the wiring to the boiler.

In something that old, it will be a flickery old neon, shouldn't be too
hard to run a bit of cable and run another in parallel


--
geoff

On Oct 29, 9:48*pm, geoff wrote:
In message , Michael
Chare writes



On 29/10/2011 17:46, MM wrote:
On Sat, 29 Oct 2011 16:36:10 +0100, Michael Chare
mUNDERSCOREnews@chareDOTorgDOTuk *wrote:

On 29/10/2011 09:21, MM wrote:
What astonishes me is the lack of any indicator light to show that the
heater has actually fired and is on. There are all these myriad
fail-safe devices inside the boiler, there's a couple of lights on the
front of the white box in the garage, but there is NOthing to indicate
whether the boiler has *actually* started.

I have to either open up the garage and listen, or I need to unlock
the rear door from the annex and traipise outside to the wall unit and
hear it start up.

A cheapo Maplin/Velleman-style solution would be a doddle to install..
Simply have a light that flashes when cold and goes stable when warmed
up. The sensor, near the warm air exhaust, would warm up in no time.

MM

My boiler has an indicator light to show when it ought to be running,
and another to show if a lockout has occurred. Since the boiler is in
the house it is normally obvious when it is going.

All the boilers I have owned have had lockout lights. You can then press
the rest button and try again.

However usually when a lockout occurs there is an underlying cause which
has to be resolved.

I you have a control panel in you house, there ought to be a lockout
light (IME).

There is none. The engineer always removes the outside cover to check
whether it's locked out.

MM


I would think that you could probably add a remote lockout warning
light if you don't mind amending the wiring to the boiler.

In something that old, it will be a flickery old neon, shouldn't be too
hard to run a bit of cable and run another in parallel

--
geoff

what do yuo know all you knoww about is mending fans for ****ssake,
stick too what nyou know a bit about!!

In message
,
chas writes

I would think that you could probably add a remote lockout warning
light if you don't mind amending the wiring to the boiler.

In something that old, it will be a flickery old neon, shouldn't be too
hard to run a bit of cable and run another in parallel

--
geoff

what do yuo know all you knoww about is mending fans for ****ssake,
stick too what nyou know a bit about!!


Ah - its still half term then ...

or is it care in the community letting the window lickers out again?

--
geoff

On Sat, 29 Oct 2011 15:34:25 -0700, chas wrote:

what do yuo know all you knoww about is mending fans for ****ssake,
stick too what nyou know a bit about!!

What a credible poster you are...

--
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK:
http://www.mirrorservice.org

*lightning protection* - a w_tom conductor

On Sat, 29 Oct 2011 15:34:25 -0700 (PDT), chas
wrote:

what do yuo know all you knoww about is mending fans for ****ssake,
stick too what nyou know a bit about!!

Go on, enlighten us.
What, exactly, do you know about?

"Grimly Curmudgeon" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 29 Oct 2011 15:34:25 -0700 (PDT), chas
wrote:

what do yuo know all you knoww about is mending fans for ****ssake,
stick too what nyou know a bit about!!

Go on, enlighten us.
What, exactly, do you know about?

Well he's wrong about geof, he needs staff to fix the fans.

dennis@home wrote:
"Grimly Curmudgeon" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 29 Oct 2011 15:34:25 -0700 (PDT), chas
wrote:

what do yuo know all you knoww about is mending fans for ****ssake,
stick too what nyou know a bit about!!

Go on, enlighten us.
What, exactly, do you know about?

Well he's wrong about geof, he needs staff to fix the fans.

You do not know the difference between need and have.

Geoff has staff and they tend to his needs. He employs the staff in order to
make him more money than he could do on his own. That's why I have an
apprentice, it makes me money.

Business and management was never your strong point was it?

Now talking of needs, when I needed a part for a job it was Geoff that
emailed me to ask for my address and he sent me the part for free. I know
that it was only a part that cost 50p but he took the time and effort to
order his staff to package up the part and sent it to me.

What's your contribution to the uk.d-i-y group apart from talking ********
and getting everything wrong?

You are such a tight ******* that you would not give another poster the
steam off your ****.


--
Adam

On 30/10/2011 18:06, ARWadsworth wrote:
dennis@home wrote:
"Grimly wrote in message
...
On Sat, 29 Oct 2011 15:34:25 -0700 (PDT), chas
wrote:

what do yuo know all you knoww about is mending fans for ****ssake,
stick too what nyou know a bit about!!

Go on, enlighten us.
What, exactly, do you know about?

Well he's wrong about geof, he needs staff to fix the fans.

You do not know the difference between need and have.

Geoff has staff and they tend to his needs. He employs the staff in order to
make him more money than he could do on his own. That's why I have an
apprentice, it makes me money.

Elves & Shoemakers....

Business and management was never your strong point was it?

How dare you say that? Dennis is an internationally recognised expert
in VAT.


Now talking of needs, when I needed a part for a job it was Geoff that
emailed me to ask for my address and he sent me the part for free. I know
that it was only a part that cost 50p but he took the time and effort to
order his staff to package up the part and sent it to me.

What's your contribution to the uk.d-i-y group apart from talking ********
and getting everything wrong?

Errm. Well, there's, errm, oh and, errm.


Got it! Every village needs an idiot.

--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

The Medway Handyman wrote:
On 30/10/2011 18:06, ARWadsworth wrote:
dennis@home wrote:
"Grimly wrote in message
...
On Sat, 29 Oct 2011 15:34:25 -0700 (PDT), chas
wrote:

what do yuo know all you knoww about is mending fans for
****ssake, stick too what nyou know a bit about!!

Go on, enlighten us.
What, exactly, do you know about?

Well he's wrong about geof, he needs staff to fix the fans.

You do not know the difference between need and have.

Geoff has staff and they tend to his needs. He employs the staff in
order to make him more money than he could do on his own. That's why
I have an apprentice, it makes me money.

Elves & Shoemakers....

Business and management was never your strong point was it?

How dare you say that? Dennis is an internationally recognised expert
in VAT.

And induction hobs, maps of Europe and the UK law on civil rights.

Was that before he invented the telephone?

--
Adam

In message om,
"dennis@home" writes


"Grimly Curmudgeon" wrote in message
.. .
On Sat, 29 Oct 2011 15:34:25 -0700 (PDT), chas
wrote:

what do yuo know all you knoww about is mending fans for ****ssake,
stick too what nyou know a bit about!!

Go on, enlighten us.
What, exactly, do you know about?

Well he's wrong about geof, he needs staff to fix the fans.

Well, yes, dennis

That's what I employ people for

It's a good few years since I had to get my hands dirty, were you not
paying attention ?

They work, I get paid

Stupid boy

--
geoff

In message , ARWadsworth
writes
The Medway Handyman wrote:
On 30/10/2011 18:06, ARWadsworth wrote:
dennis@home wrote:
"Grimly wrote in message
...
On Sat, 29 Oct 2011 15:34:25 -0700 (PDT), chas
wrote:

what do yuo know all you knoww about is mending fans for
****ssake, stick too what nyou know a bit about!!

Go on, enlighten us.
What, exactly, do you know about?

Well he's wrong about geof, he needs staff to fix the fans.

You do not know the difference between need and have.

Geoff has staff and they tend to his needs. He employs the staff in
order to make him more money than he could do on his own. That's why
I have an apprentice, it makes me money.

Elves & Shoemakers....

Business and management was never your strong point was it?

How dare you say that? Dennis is an internationally recognised expert
in VAT.

And induction hobs, maps of Europe and the UK law on civil rights.

Was that before he invented the telephone?

You forgot ... software superstar

two very basic lines in C and he only made, what, two mistake ?

Sheer genius

--
geoff

"geoff" wrote in message
...

two very basic lines in C and he only made, what, two mistake ?

It wasn't C, so who can't write software then geof.
Others know it wasn't C and pointed out the one error.
The other was just putting in extra quotes which is a good thing as it adds
to readability.