The header tank atop my immersion heater has a brass float-operated valve.
It started leaking last year, allowing water to leak out of the overflow
pipe. I took the valve apart and found that the seal is formed by a small
rubber disc, about 8mm diameter. It had become a bit worn on the side that
mates with the moving piston. So I simply reversed the rubber disc so that
the nice, flat pristine side was on the side that touched the moving
piston. All was well, or so I thought.... Now it is leaking again!


Should I now replace the whole valve, or can a new rubber disc be obtained
from somewhere?

These brass valves have been around since time immemorial, and they aren't
exactly cheap. Is there anything available nowadays that is cheaper and
more reliable? Can anyone provide a link to a valve you can recommend?

TIA...

Al

"AL_n" wrote in
:

The header tank atop my immersion heater has a brass float-operated
valve. It started leaking last year, allowing water to leak out of the


PS... My valve happens to have the 3/4" threads, making it one of the more
expensive ones (as compared to 1/2" ones which can be got for as little as
£5 or so....

In article ,
"AL_n" writes:
"AL_n" wrote in
:

The header tank atop my immersion heater has a brass float-operated
valve. It started leaking last year, allowing water to leak out of the


PS... My valve happens to have the 3/4" threads, making it one of the more
expensive ones (as compared to 1/2" ones which can be got for as little as
£5 or so....

I would have thought a plumbers merchant would have the rubber,
although possibly only an older independant one. If you said
where you are, someone might point you to a suitable one.
Also look at the valve seat (which the rubber presses against),
as a leak can result in the water cutting a channel in it.

I think that nowadays this type is used mainly for central heating
header tanks, i.e. low usage. The mechanism used in stored water
header tanks and toilet cisterns is the fast shut-off type, which
uses the water pressure to shut off rather than the force on the
float to shut off.

Any idea why your tank has a large one? Is it a low pressure feed
from another tank not much higher up?

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

AL_n wrote:
The header tank atop my immersion heater has a brass float-operated
valve. It started leaking last year, allowing water to leak out of
the overflow pipe. I took the valve apart and found that the seal is
formed by a small rubber disc, about 8mm diameter. It had become a
bit worn on the side that mates with the moving piston. So I simply
reversed the rubber disc so that the nice, flat pristine side was on
the side that touched the moving piston. All was well, or so I
thought.... Now it is leaking again!


Should I now replace the whole valve, or can a new rubber disc be
obtained from somewhere?

These brass valves have been around since time immemorial, and they
aren't exactly cheap. Is there anything available nowadays that is
cheaper and more reliable? Can anyone provide a link to a valve you
can recommend?

TIA...

Al

Any plumbers merchants will supply you you with the correct sized ball valve
washer and cone (change both) - or you could even try your a decent, local
builders merchant.

Cash

(Andrew Gabriel) wrote in
:


I would have thought a plumbers merchant would have the rubber,
although possibly only an older independant one. If you said
where you are, someone might point you to a suitable one.
Also look at the valve seat (which the rubber presses against),
as a leak can result in the water cutting a channel in it.

I think that nowadays this type is used mainly for central heating
header tanks, i.e. low usage. The mechanism used in stored water
header tanks and toilet cisterns is the fast shut-off type, which
uses the water pressure to shut off rather than the force on the
float to shut off.

Any idea why your tank has a large one? Is it a low pressure feed
from another tank not much higher up?

No, there is no other tank higher up. I assumed it was just luck of the
draw, whether the header tank happened to have a 1/2" hole or a 3/4" or a
1" hole for the valve.

Thanks...

Al

"Cash" wrote in
:

AL_n wrote:
The header tank atop my immersion heater has a brass float-operated
valve. It started leaking last year, allowing water to leak out of
the overflow pipe. I took the valve apart and found that the seal is
formed by a small rubber disc, about 8mm diameter. It had become a
bit worn on the side that mates with the moving piston. So I simply
reversed the rubber disc so that the nice, flat pristine side was on
the side that touched the moving piston. All was well, or so I
thought.... Now it is leaking again!


Should I now replace the whole valve, or can a new rubber disc be
obtained from somewhere?

These brass valves have been around since time immemorial, and they
aren't exactly cheap. Is there anything available nowadays that is
cheaper and more reliable? Can anyone provide a link to a valve you
can recommend?

TIA...

Al

Any plumbers merchants will supply you you with the correct sized ball
valve washer and cone (change both) - or you could even try your a
decent, local builders merchant.

Cash

Thanks, I will see about finding those replacement parts.

Al

On Aug 29, 12:41*pm, "AL_n" wrote:
The header tank atop my immersion heater has a brass float-operated valve..
It started leaking last year, allowing water to leak out of the overflow
pipe. I took the valve apart and found that the seal is formed by a small
rubber disc, about 8mm diameter. It had become a bit worn on the *side that
mates with the moving piston. So I simply reversed the rubber disc so that
the nice, flat pristine side was on the side that touched the moving
piston. All was well, or so I thought.... Now it is leaking again!

Should I now replace the whole valve, or can a new rubber disc be obtained
from somewhere?

These brass valves have been around since time immemorial, and they aren't
exactly cheap. Is there anything available nowadays that is cheaper and
more reliable? Can anyone provide a link to a valve you can recommend?

TIA...

Al

Not exactly cheap? For the time spent buggering about stripping,
cleaning off the scale and corrsion, changing the rubber, greasing the
slides and reassembling, they are ridiculously cheap, five to ten
pounds for the whole valve.

On Aug 29, 8:41*pm, "AL_n" wrote:
The header tank atop my immersion heater has a brass float-operated valve..
It started leaking last year, allowing water to leak out of the overflow
pipe. I took the valve apart and found that the seal is formed by a small
rubber disc, about 8mm diameter. It had become a bit worn on the *side that
mates with the moving piston. So I simply reversed the rubber disc so that
the nice, flat pristine side was on the side that touched the moving
piston. All was well, or so I thought.... Now it is leaking again!

Should I now replace the whole valve, or can a new rubber disc be obtained
from somewhere?

These brass valves have been around since time immemorial, and they aren't
exactly cheap. Is there anything available nowadays that is cheaper and
more reliable? Can anyone provide a link to a valve you can recommend?

TIA...

Al
Thisis a virtually indestructible device that can be maintained
forever.
All you need is a new "disc" (ballcock washer is the correct term.)
Any DIY store will have them.
You need to examine the face of the conical jet it bears against, may
be brass or plastic but needs to b e perfectly smooth. Clean/smooth
with fine wire wool.

Also check it has not split ,as occasionally happens. (Frost damage).

BTW, you are aware the brass "slug" containing the washer comes apart
by unscrewing?

On Aug 29, 11:36*pm, "AL_n" wrote:
"Cash" wrote :





AL_n wrote:
The header tank atop my immersion heater has a brass float-operated
valve. It started leaking last year, allowing water to leak out of
the overflow pipe. I took the valve apart and found that the seal is
formed by a small rubber disc, about 8mm diameter. It had become a
bit worn on the *side that mates with the moving piston. So I simply
reversed the rubber disc so that the nice, flat pristine side was on
the side that touched the moving piston. All was well, or so I
thought.... Now it is leaking again!

Should I now replace the whole valve, or can a new rubber disc be
obtained from somewhere?

These brass valves have been around since time immemorial, and they
aren't exactly cheap. Is there anything available nowadays that is
cheaper and more reliable? Can anyone provide a link to a valve you
can recommend?

TIA...

Al

Any plumbers merchants will supply you you with the correct sized ball
valve washer and cone (change both) - or you could even try your a
decent, local builders merchant.

Cash

Thanks, I will see about finding those replacement parts.

Al- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

NOTE. There are both high and low pressure jets available, check which
one you have. Size of hole is the difference. Washer is the same.

harry wrote in news:3aac2421-7fbe-4a06-83b4-
:

NOTE. There are both high and low pressure jets available, check which
one you have. Size of hole is the difference. Washer is the same.

Thanks...

Al

On Aug 29, 8:41*pm, "AL_n" wrote:
The header tank atop my immersion heater has a brass float-operated valve..
It started leaking last year, allowing water to leak out of the overflow
pipe. I took the valve apart and found that the seal is formed by a small
rubber disc, about 8mm diameter. It had become a bit worn on the *side that
mates with the moving piston. So I simply reversed the rubber disc so that
the nice, flat pristine side was on the side that touched the moving
piston. All was well, or so I thought.... Now it is leaking again!

Should I now replace the whole valve, or can a new rubber disc be obtained
from somewhere?

These brass valves have been around since time immemorial, and they aren't
exactly cheap. Is there anything available nowadays that is cheaper and
more reliable? Can anyone provide a link to a valve you can recommend?

TIA...

Al

Go to a farm supplier, they sell them very cheaply.

jonathan

I'm still trying to solve this issue. The valve I have is the brass type
(BS 1212/1) Brand: "Wirquin".


(Andrew Gabriel) wrote in news:j3gs8c$cuv$1
@dont-email.me:

I think that nowadays this type is used mainly for central heating
header tanks, i.e. low usage. The mechanism used in stored water
header tanks and toilet cisterns is the fast shut-off type, which
uses the water pressure to shut off rather than the force on the
float to shut off.

I would like to ditch the old brass one and fit something else, so I guess
I'll probably follow the above suggestion and fit a fast shut-off type.

Can some recommend one, in particular, or advise of any types that should
be avoided? I want something that is as maintenance-free as possible,
because it's a real pain to access, being in an awkward corner of the loft.

The hole in my header thank is about 1" diameter,and the threaded portion
of the valve is about 7/8" diameter, and then reduces down to the usual
thread diameter as found on compression fittings for a 15mm pipe.

Are plastic valves (diaphragm type) suitable?

Thanks...

Al

"AL_n" wrote in
:


I'm still trying to solve this issue. The valve I have is the brass
type (BS 1212/1) Brand: "Wirquin".


(Andrew Gabriel) wrote in
news:j3gs8c$cuv$1 @dont-email.me:

I think that nowadays this type is used mainly for central heating
header tanks, i.e. low usage. The mechanism used in stored water
header tanks and toilet cisterns is the fast shut-off type, which
uses the water pressure to shut off rather than the force on the
float to shut off.

I would like to ditch the old brass one and fit something else, so I
guess I'll probably follow the above suggestion and fit a fast
shut-off type.

Can some recommend one, in particular, or advise of any types that
should be avoided? I want something that is as maintenance-free as
possible, because it's a real pain to access, being in an awkward
corner of the loft.

The hole in my header thank is about 1" diameter,and the threaded
portion of the valve is about 7/8" diameter, and then reduces down to
the usual thread diameter as found on compression fittings for a 15mm
pipe.


PS.... Just to clarify, the header tank is on an electric immersion heater;
it's not a central heating header tank.

On Wed, 31 Aug 2011 15:07:38 +0000, AL_n wrote:

Can some recommend one, in particular, or advise of any types that
should be avoided? I want something that is as maintenance-free as
possible, because it's a real pain to access, being in an awkward corner
of the loft.

The hole in my header thank is about 1" diameter,and the threaded
portion of the valve is about 7/8" diameter, and then reduces down to
the usual thread diameter as found on compression fittings for a 15mm
pipe.

Are plastic valves (diaphragm type) suitable?

The small plastic Torbeck valves should probably be avoided. They are
good, but if the filter fails (which seems to happen after a while), the
slightest bit of grit will make them fail open (or closed!).

To be honest, the basic brass one you have is probably the safest.



--
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK:
http://www.mirrorservice.org

*lightning protection* - a w_tom conductor

In article ,
Bob Eager writes:
On Wed, 31 Aug 2011 15:07:38 +0000, AL_n wrote:

Can some recommend one, in particular, or advise of any types that
should be avoided? I want something that is as maintenance-free as
possible, because it's a real pain to access, being in an awkward corner
of the loft.

The hole in my header thank is about 1" diameter,and the threaded
portion of the valve is about 7/8" diameter, and then reduces down to
the usual thread diameter as found on compression fittings for a 15mm
pipe.

Are plastic valves (diaphragm type) suitable?

The small plastic Torbeck valves should probably be avoided. They are
good, but if the filter fails (which seems to happen after a while), the
slightest bit of grit will make them fail open (or closed!).

I've not had that problem, but I did have a plastic float arm snap
for no explainable reason sometime during the night, resulting in
continuous full flow filling, a failure mode which I had previously
considered unlikely. Fortunately, the overflow just about coped,
and thats something I always test since then by drowning the float.

To be honest, the basic brass one you have is probably the safest.

Yes. Failure is likely to result in a small overflow, at least
initially.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]