I'm repairing an old teak garden folding bench seat. The slats for
both the back and seat require replacing.

The seat slats aren't giving me any bother, but the back slats are
loose tenoned into two horizontal timbers which would require major
dismantlement to remove. I've tried removing one of these slats by
bending to see if that would be the way to get new ones in, but it
just broke.

My thinking now is to cut away the back of one of the mortices with a
thin saw, slip the slat in and then re-glue the cut out piece, but am
wondering what glue would best. Waterproof PVA exists but cannot be
relied on if the wood is permanently damp - PU I don't fancy and it
also has caveats against it. The DIY Wiki doesn't give any clear
guidance on this.

Suggestions ?

Rob

robgraham wrote:
I'm repairing an old teak garden folding bench seat. The slats for
both the back and seat require replacing.

The seat slats aren't giving me any bother, but the back slats are
loose tenoned into two horizontal timbers which would require major
dismantlement to remove. I've tried removing one of these slats by
bending to see if that would be the way to get new ones in, but it
just broke.

My thinking now is to cut away the back of one of the mortices with a
thin saw, slip the slat in and then re-glue the cut out piece, but am
wondering what glue would best. Waterproof PVA exists but cannot be
relied on if the wood is permanently damp - PU I don't fancy and it
also has caveats against it. The DIY Wiki doesn't give any clear
guidance on this.

Suggestions ?

Rob
What is your problem with PU

As far as I'm concerned it is perfect for this sort of job and I've been
using for 'always damp' type conditions for years.

Bob

On 28/07/2011 14:17, Bob Minchin wrote:
robgraham wrote:
I'm repairing an old teak garden folding bench seat. The slats for
both the back and seat require replacing.

The seat slats aren't giving me any bother, but the back slats are
loose tenoned into two horizontal timbers which would require major
dismantlement to remove. I've tried removing one of these slats by
bending to see if that would be the way to get new ones in, but it
just broke.

My thinking now is to cut away the back of one of the mortices with a
thin saw, slip the slat in and then re-glue the cut out piece, but am
wondering what glue would best. Waterproof PVA exists but cannot be
relied on if the wood is permanently damp - PU I don't fancy and it
also has caveats against it. The DIY Wiki doesn't give any clear
guidance on this.

Suggestions ?

Rob
What is your problem with PU

As far as I'm concerned it is perfect for this sort of job and I've been
using for 'always damp' type conditions for years.

Bob

It will expand and A) push the insert out of place B) with its
expansion, it will end up sticking the slat in the loose mortice. The
DIY Wiki raises questions on it's 'always wet' capability.

Rob

robgraham wrote:
I'm repairing an old teak garden folding bench seat. The slats for
both the back and seat require replacing.

The seat slats aren't giving me any bother, but the back slats are
loose tenoned into two horizontal timbers which would require major
dismantlement to remove. I've tried removing one of these slats by
bending to see if that would be the way to get new ones in, but it
just broke.

My thinking now is to cut away the back of one of the mortices with a
thin saw, slip the slat in and then re-glue the cut out piece, but am
wondering what glue would best. Waterproof PVA exists but cannot be
relied on if the wood is permanently damp - PU I don't fancy and it
also has caveats against it. The DIY Wiki doesn't give any clear
guidance on this.

Suggestions ?

Rob

Rob,

Be aware that teak is a very oily wood and very few glues will adhere to it
without some sort of 'special' preparation for the glue to 'stick'.

Have a look at this link which seems to have some useful info.

http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Gluing_Teak.html

Cash

On 28/07/2011 17:51, Cash wrote:
robgraham wrote:
I'm repairing an old teak garden folding bench seat. The slats for
both the back and seat require replacing.

The seat slats aren't giving me any bother, but the back slats are
loose tenoned into two horizontal timbers which would require major
dismantlement to remove. I've tried removing one of these slats by
bending to see if that would be the way to get new ones in, but it
just broke.

My thinking now is to cut away the back of one of the mortices with a
thin saw, slip the slat in and then re-glue the cut out piece, but am
wondering what glue would best. Waterproof PVA exists but cannot be
relied on if the wood is permanently damp - PU I don't fancy and it
also has caveats against it. The DIY Wiki doesn't give any clear
guidance on this.

Suggestions ?

Rob

Rob,

Be aware that teak is a very oily wood and very few glues will adhere to it
without some sort of 'special' preparation for the glue to 'stick'.

Have a look at this link which seems to have some useful info.

http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Gluing_Teak.html

Cash



Thanks for that, Cash. I hadn't thought of the oil problem, but it does
seem as if a bit of oil removing fluid just before application solves
that one. The link you gave is useful too.
Rob

On 28/07/2011 20:53, Rob G wrote:
On 28/07/2011 17:51, Cash wrote:
robgraham wrote:
I'm repairing an old teak garden folding bench seat. The slats for
both the back and seat require replacing.

The seat slats aren't giving me any bother, but the back slats are
loose tenoned into two horizontal timbers which would require major
dismantlement to remove. I've tried removing one of these slats by
bending to see if that would be the way to get new ones in, but it
just broke.

My thinking now is to cut away the back of one of the mortices with a
thin saw, slip the slat in and then re-glue the cut out piece, but am
wondering what glue would best. Waterproof PVA exists but cannot be
relied on if the wood is permanently damp - PU I don't fancy and it
also has caveats against it. The DIY Wiki doesn't give any clear
guidance on this.

Suggestions ?

Rob

Rob,

Be aware that teak is a very oily wood and very few glues will adhere
to it
without some sort of 'special' preparation for the glue to 'stick'.

Have a look at this link which seems to have some useful info.

http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Gluing_Teak.html

Cash



Thanks for that, Cash. I hadn't thought of the oil problem, but it does
seem as if a bit of oil removing fluid just before application solves
that one. The link you gave is useful too.
Rob


You need a D4 grade adhesive as used in boat building.



--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On Fri, 29 Jul 2011 09:02:25 +0100, The Medway Handyman
wrote:

On 28/07/2011 20:53, Rob G wrote:
On 28/07/2011 17:51, Cash wrote:
robgraham wrote:
I'm repairing an old teak garden folding bench seat. The slats for
both the back and seat require replacing.

The seat slats aren't giving me any bother, but the back slats are
loose tenoned into two horizontal timbers which would require major
dismantlement to remove. I've tried removing one of these slats by
bending to see if that would be the way to get new ones in, but it
just broke.

My thinking now is to cut away the back of one of the mortices with a
thin saw, slip the slat in and then re-glue the cut out piece, but am
wondering what glue would best. Waterproof PVA exists but cannot be
relied on if the wood is permanently damp - PU I don't fancy and it
also has caveats against it. The DIY Wiki doesn't give any clear
guidance on this.

Suggestions ?

Rob

Rob,

Be aware that teak is a very oily wood and very few glues will adhere
to it
without some sort of 'special' preparation for the glue to 'stick'.

Have a look at this link which seems to have some useful info.

http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Gluing_Teak.html

Cash



Thanks for that, Cash. I hadn't thought of the oil problem, but it does
seem as if a bit of oil removing fluid just before application solves
that one. The link you gave is useful too.
Rob


You need a D4 grade adhesive as used in boat building.



Is there any readily accessible site which provides a very simple potted
summary of what on earth EN204/D4 actually defines?

So far it is like all the other standards which manufacturers claim to
adhere to. Just an identity to quote.

--
Rod

On Thu, 28 Jul 2011 04:35:02 -0700, robgraham wrote:

I'm repairing an old teak garden folding bench seat. The slats for both
the back and seat require replacing.

The seat slats aren't giving me any bother, but the back slats are loose
tenoned into two horizontal timbers which would require major
dismantlement to remove. I've tried removing one of these slats by
bending to see if that would be the way to get new ones in, but it just
broke.

My thinking now is to cut away the back of one of the mortices with a
thin saw, slip the slat in and then re-glue the cut out piece, but am
wondering what glue would best. Waterproof PVA exists but cannot be
relied on if the wood is permanently damp - PU I don't fancy and it also
has caveats against it. The DIY Wiki doesn't give any clear guidance on
this.

Suggestions ?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Cascamite-Po.../dp/B0001OZI98

--
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK:
http://www.mirrorservice.org

*lightning protection* - a w_tom conductor

Bob Eager wrote:
On Thu, 28 Jul 2011 04:35:02 -0700, robgraham wrote:

I'm repairing an old teak garden folding bench seat. The slats for both
the back and seat require replacing.

The seat slats aren't giving me any bother, but the back slats are loose
tenoned into two horizontal timbers which would require major
dismantlement to remove. I've tried removing one of these slats by
bending to see if that would be the way to get new ones in, but it just
broke.

My thinking now is to cut away the back of one of the mortices with a
thin saw, slip the slat in and then re-glue the cut out piece, but am
wondering what glue would best. Waterproof PVA exists but cannot be
relied on if the wood is permanently damp - PU I don't fancy and it also
has caveats against it. The DIY Wiki doesn't give any clear guidance on
this.

Suggestions ?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Cascamite-Po.../dp/B0001OZI98

Good grief, are they still making that?

--
Tciao for Now!

John.

On Fri, 29 Jul 2011 09:55:22 +0100, John Williamson wrote:

Bob Eager wrote:
On Thu, 28 Jul 2011 04:35:02 -0700, robgraham wrote:

I'm repairing an old teak garden folding bench seat. The slats for
both the back and seat require replacing.

The seat slats aren't giving me any bother, but the back slats are
loose tenoned into two horizontal timbers which would require major
dismantlement to remove. I've tried removing one of these slats by
bending to see if that would be the way to get new ones in, but it
just broke.

My thinking now is to cut away the back of one of the mortices with a
thin saw, slip the slat in and then re-glue the cut out piece, but am
wondering what glue would best. Waterproof PVA exists but cannot be
relied on if the wood is permanently damp - PU I don't fancy and it
also has caveats against it. The DIY Wiki doesn't give any clear
guidance on this.

Suggestions ?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Cascamite-Po...-Wood-Glue/dp/
B0001OZI98

Good grief, are they still making that?

It came up a while ago, and I checked then. My dad used to use it for
canoe building. In fact, he used it for everything!

--
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK:
http://www.mirrorservice.org

*lightning protection* - a w_tom conductor

On 29/07/2011 12:17, Bob Eager wrote:
On Fri, 29 Jul 2011 09:55:22 +0100, John Williamson wrote:

Bob Eager wrote:
On Thu, 28 Jul 2011 04:35:02 -0700, robgraham wrote:

I'm repairing an old teak garden folding bench seat. The slats for
both the back and seat require replacing.

The seat slats aren't giving me any bother, but the back slats are
loose tenoned into two horizontal timbers which would require major
dismantlement to remove. I've tried removing one of these slats by
bending to see if that would be the way to get new ones in, but it
just broke.

My thinking now is to cut away the back of one of the mortices with a
thin saw, slip the slat in and then re-glue the cut out piece, but am
wondering what glue would best. Waterproof PVA exists but cannot be
relied on if the wood is permanently damp - PU I don't fancy and it
also has caveats against it. The DIY Wiki doesn't give any clear
guidance on this.

Suggestions ?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Cascamite-Po...-Wood-Glue/dp/
B0001OZI98

Good grief, are they still making that?

It came up a while ago, and I checked then. My dad used to use it for
canoe building. In fact, he used it for everything!


It is the glue that I had in mind, and I think I have some somewhere,
but wanted to get some opinions. Certainly the difficulty of gluing
oily teak, and the solution, was something I wasn't aware of.

I built a car - actually van - body with cascamite, or it's precursor in
the mid 1960's. Again to be actually totally accurate, my father did the
building and I was the apprentice, but now, well past the age he was
then, I can appreciate that it was that point in fatherhood where the
son is someone you can work with and pass on your DIY knowledge.

Rob

On Jul 29, 12:34*pm, Rob G
wrote:
On 29/07/2011 12:17, Bob Eager wrote:



On Fri, 29 Jul 2011 09:55:22 +0100, John Williamson wrote:

Bob Eager wrote:
On Thu, 28 Jul 2011 04:35:02 -0700, robgraham wrote:

I'm repairing an old teak garden folding bench seat. *The slats for
both the back and seat require replacing.

The seat slats aren't giving me any bother, but the back slats are
loose tenoned into two horizontal timbers which would require major
dismantlement to remove. *I've tried removing one of these slats by
bending to see if that would be the way to get new ones in, but it
just broke.

My thinking now is to cut away the back of one of the mortices with a
thin saw, slip the slat in and then re-glue the cut out piece, but am
wondering what glue would best. *Waterproof PVA exists but cannot be
relied on if the wood is permanently damp - PU I don't fancy and it
also has caveats against it. *The DIY Wiki doesn't give any clear
guidance on this.

Suggestions ?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Cascamite-Po...-Wood-Glue/dp/
B0001OZI98

Good grief, are they still making that?

It came up a while ago, and I checked then. My dad used to use it for
canoe building. In fact, he used it for everything!

It is the glue that I had in mind, and I think I have some somewhere,
but wanted to get some opinions. *Certainly the difficulty of gluing
oily teak, and the solution, was something I wasn't aware of.

I built a car - actually van - body with cascamite, or it's precursor in
the mid 1960's. Again to be actually totally accurate, my father did the
building and I was the apprentice, but now, well past the age he was
then, I can appreciate that it was that point in fatherhood where the
son is someone you can work with and pass on your DIY knowledge.

Rob

You can always use epoxy. Its the glue of choice for timber when
failure would cause an accident. If you wrap a sandwich bag round the
end of the slat, that will prevent it getting glued too. Its totally
100% waterproof, you can immerse it in the sea for 50 years and it
wont mind. Its also very tough stuff.

PU's fine if it dries out fully, but if it stays wet/damp, mine turned
to jelly after a month. It gets used for outdoorish timberwork, so...
who knows, it may well be fine.


NT

robgraham wrote:
I'm repairing an old teak garden folding bench seat. The slats for
both the back and seat require replacing.

The seat slats aren't giving me any bother, but the back slats are
loose tenoned into two horizontal timbers which would require major
dismantlement to remove. I've tried removing one of these slats by
bending to see if that would be the way to get new ones in, but it
just broke.

My thinking now is to cut away the back of one of the mortices with a
thin saw, slip the slat in and then re-glue the cut out piece, but am
wondering what glue would best. Waterproof PVA exists but cannot be
relied on if the wood is permanently damp - PU I don't fancy and it
also has caveats against it. The DIY Wiki doesn't give any clear
guidance on this.

Suggestions ?

Rob


Titebond 111 maybe

On Jul 28, 12:35*pm, robgraham wrote:
I'm repairing an old teak garden folding bench seat. *

Epoxy on teak.

PVA isn't waterproof enough, even the posh stuff.

PU is crap, expensive, a pain to work with, weak against repeated
fretting loads (chairs, single column tables) and useless against UV

Cascamite is nice, but doesn't work well on fresh teak or iroko (to a
slightly lesser extent). De-oiling with meths, or it just being a
couple of years old, helps.

Most "teak" you buy in timberyards these days is iroko. If you are
buying teak, it's mostly illegally logged in Cambodia and then
whitewashed through the Malysian government sawmills (they have more
sawmills than forest, but claim it's all for home production). Best
avoided.

On Jul 29, 2:15*pm, F Murtz wrote:

Titebond 111 maybe

The McDonalds of glue.

On 29/07/2011 12:17, Bob Eager wrote:
It came up a while ago, and I checked then. My dad used to use it for
canoe building. In fact, he used it for everything!

Yes, my dad used to use it too. But he gave up and switched to epoxy
about 20 years ago. As did every boat builder and repairer I know.

Epoxy is enough stronger that the jointing fillets in some old designs
are now omitted, and there's a struggle to make the boat heavy enough to
conform to class rules (light is fast). It also lasts a lot longer.

Andy

On Fri, 05 Aug 2011 21:22:36 +0100, Andy Champ wrote:

On 29/07/2011 12:17, Bob Eager wrote:
It came up a while ago, and I checked then. My dad used to use it for
canoe building. In fact, he used it for everything!

Yes, my dad used to use it too. But he gave up and switched to epoxy
about 20 years ago. As did every boat builder and repairer I know.

My dad stopped a bit before that. He spent many years using glass fibre
too, in a not very well ventilated area.

He eventually died of oesophogeal cancer. I sometimes wonder if there was
a connection.

--
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK:
http://www.mirrorservice.org

*lightning protection* - a w_tom conductor

On 05/08/2011 21:34, Bob Eager wrote:

My dad stopped a bit before that. He spent many years using glass fibre
too, in a not very well ventilated area.

He eventually died of oesophogeal cancer. I sometimes wonder if there was
a connection.


Epoxy doesn't have a good name for safety. Gloves are advised - though
AFAIK breathing the fumes isn't an issue.

Andy