Hi all

A colleague is batoning and insulating a cold wall, with 12mm plasterboard
to cover.

I have suggested that he makes sure batons are installed close to the
proposed double socket location and that he uses a dry lining box.

As this will be for a socket (which take more hammer than switches
obviously), can you guys recommend the most sturdy box please?
There seem to be various types on the market, some of which look well waffey
to me!

Thanks

Phil

TheScullster wrote:

There seem to be various types on the market, some of which look well waffey
to me!

It's not the boxes that give out but the plasterboard. Most seem to have
the same size sideflaps so little to choose there in terms of load
spreading. To my mind they'd be better if they had extra flaps top and
bottom on the double boxes as they're nearly always going to be socket
boxes.

Having said that, I fitted a double socket in an existing plasterboard
wall the other day using one and was surprised at how solid it felt.

If it was me, I'd simply set a 35mm metal back box into the existing
wall so that it'll sit flush with (or slightly behind) the front face of
the plasterboard when it's fitted.

--
Scott

Where are we going and why am I in this handbasket?

"Scott M" wrote

TheScullster wrote:

There seem to be various types on the market, some of which look well
waffey to me!

It's not the boxes that give out but the plasterboard. Most seem to have
the same size sideflaps so little to choose there in terms of load
spreading. To my mind they'd be better if they had extra flaps top and
bottom on the double boxes as they're nearly always going to be socket
boxes.

Having said that, I fitted a double socket in an existing plasterboard
wall the other day using one and was surprised at how solid it felt.

If it was me, I'd simply set a 35mm metal back box into the existing wall
so that it'll sit flush with (or slightly behind) the front face of the
plasterboard when it's fitted.

--
Scott


Thanks Scott

That was my first thought - I like metal boxes screwed to something solid!
But that would cause a cold bridge to the solid/cold/damp outside wall.

Phil

In article ,
Scott M wrote:
It's not the boxes that give out but the plasterboard. Most seem to have
the same size sideflaps so little to choose there in terms of load
spreading. To my mind they'd be better if they had extra flaps top and
bottom on the double boxes as they're nearly always going to be socket
boxes.

Having said that, I fitted a double socket in an existing plasterboard
wall the other day using one and was surprised at how solid it felt.

If it was me, I'd simply set a 35mm metal back box into the existing
wall so that it'll sit flush with (or slightly behind) the front face of
the plasterboard when it's fitted.

I screw wood battens (1 x 1/2" or so) to the back of the plasterboard and
fix a metal box to those. Handy in a partition wall. It sounds quite long
winded but doesn't actually add much time to the installation. Of course I
realise a pro sparks wouldn't have the time for this.

--
*I yell because I care

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Tue, 5 Jul 2011 13:35:42 +0100, TheScullster wrote:

If it was me, I'd simply set a 35mm metal back box into the
existing
wall so that it'll sit flush with (or slightly behind) the front
face
of the plasterboard when it's fitted.

That was my first thought - I like metal boxes screwed to something
solid!

So do it but the times I've used a drylining box on plasterboard the
fix is firm enough but I've always tried to as close to a stud as
possible rather than in the middle of span. The noise as the whole
wall acts a sound board as you plug/unplug/switch is another matter.

But that would cause a cold bridge to the solid/cold/damp outside
wall.

I'm wondereding how the spark is going to deal with fixing boxes to
plasterboard with 50mm of kingspan bonded on the back and running
cables to them behind the 8x4 sheets...

--
Cheers
Dave.

"Dave Liquorice" wrote

On Tue, 5 Jul 2011 13:35:42 +0100, TheScullster wrote:

If it was me, I'd simply set a 35mm metal back box into the
existing
wall so that it'll sit flush with (or slightly behind) the front
face
of the plasterboard when it's fitted.

That was my first thought - I like metal boxes screwed to something
solid!

So do it but the times I've used a drylining box on plasterboard the
fix is firm enough but I've always tried to as close to a stud as
possible rather than in the middle of span. The noise as the whole
wall acts a sound board as you plug/unplug/switch is another matter.

But that would cause a cold bridge to the solid/cold/damp outside
wall.

I'm wondereding how the spark is going to deal with fixing boxes to
plasterboard with 50mm of kingspan bonded on the back and running
cables to them behind the 8x4 sheets...

Thanks Dave

This is a DIY job.
My colleague intends to fit batons to wall and infill with kingspan.
Then cover over with kingspan over top of batons.
Then plasterboard over.
The cables will come up through the floor behind plasterboard in channel cut
in top layer of kingspan.

Phil

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Scott M wrote:
It's not the boxes that give out but the plasterboard. Most seem to
have the same size sideflaps so little to choose there in terms of
load spreading. To my mind they'd be better if they had extra flaps
top and bottom on the double boxes as they're nearly always going to
be socket boxes.

Having said that, I fitted a double socket in an existing
plasterboard wall the other day using one and was surprised at how
solid it felt.

If it was me, I'd simply set a 35mm metal back box into the existing
wall so that it'll sit flush with (or slightly behind) the front
face of the plasterboard when it's fitted.

I screw wood battens (1 x 1/2" or so) to the back of the plasterboard
and fix a metal box to those. Handy in a partition wall. It sounds
quite long winded but doesn't actually add much time to the
installation. Of course I realise a pro sparks wouldn't have the time
for this.


I bet have enough time do that in their own house:-)

--
Adam

In article , ARWadsworth
writes
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Scott M wrote:
It's not the boxes that give out but the plasterboard. Most seem to
have the same size sideflaps so little to choose there in terms of
load spreading. To my mind they'd be better if they had extra flaps
top and bottom on the double boxes as they're nearly always going to
be socket boxes.

Having said that, I fitted a double socket in an existing
plasterboard wall the other day using one and was surprised at how
solid it felt.

If it was me, I'd simply set a 35mm metal back box into the existing
wall so that it'll sit flush with (or slightly behind) the front
face of the plasterboard when it's fitted.

I screw wood battens (1 x 1/2" or so) to the back of the plasterboard
and fix a metal box to those. Handy in a partition wall. It sounds
quite long winded but doesn't actually add much time to the
installation. Of course I realise a pro sparks wouldn't have the time
for this.


I bet have enough time do that in their own house:-)

I bet few have enough time to finish typing before they hit send ;-)
--
fred
FIVE TV's superbright logo - not the DOG's, it's ********

On Jul 5, 12:11 pm, "TheScullster" wrote:
Hi all

A colleague is batoning and insulating a cold wall, with 12mm plasterboard
to cover.

I have suggested that he makes sure batons are installed close to the
proposed double socket location and that he uses a dry lining box.

As this will be for a socket (which take more hammer than switches
obviously), can you guys recommend the most sturdy box please?
There seem to be various types on the market, some of which look well waffey
to me!

Thanks

Phil

never had any issues throughout this place with Appleby dry lining
boxes installed in normal (just pboard) way

Jim K

In article ,
ARWadsworth wrote:
I screw wood battens (1 x 1/2" or so) to the back of the plasterboard
and fix a metal box to those. Handy in a partition wall. It sounds
quite long winded but doesn't actually add much time to the
installation. Of course I realise a pro sparks wouldn't have the time
for this.


I bet have enough time do that in their own house:-)

;-) Put it this way - it makes the box to plasterboard fixing as strong as
the plasterboard. It also allows easy and perfect lining up of two or more
boxes close by. You do usually need to drill extra holes in the boxes,
though. To pick up near the middle of the batten.

--
*No radio - Already stolen.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.