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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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diy aeriel for wireless router
Family complaining about poor internet wireless reception around the castle.
A quick search and I see the first thing to try before boosters and repeaters is simply a bigger aerial on the router (currently 3" long) at a cost of around £20. Being a tight wad I thought I might test a home made aerial first - an aerial is just a length of metal I think - and am considering how to do it. Am I right in thinking I can leave the insulation on a length of copper wire and use that? Will the length I cut it at make a difference? I mean obviously it will be longer, maybe 30" instead of 3" but does it have to be a multiple of a wavelength or something? I am guessing the aerial can be thin - a coat hanger not necessary here - but is solid copper better than strands? Tim W |
#2
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diy aeriel for wireless router
On Mon, 13 Jun 2011 08:26:40 +0100, Tim W wrote:
Am I right in thinking I can leave the insulation on a length of copper wire and use that? Yes. Will the length I cut it at make a difference? Yes, critical. I mean obviously it will be longer, maybe 30" instead of 3" but does it have to be a multiple of a wavelength or something? Yes, but it's not quite that simple. Connecting it to the router with low enough loss coax and the small connectors will be the tricky bit. Far less bother to move the wireless AP to a better location. What it's built into the same box as the ADSL modem and that can't be moved easily. Bit stupid rarerly is the best place for the ADSL modem the best place for a wireless AP. The wireless AP needs to be located away from things as much as possible, stuffed down the back of a desk surrounded by monitors and PC's is not, erm, ideal. You can buy aerials and TBH that is probably the better choice as it should come with suitable cable and connectors etc. -- Cheers Dave. |
#3
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diy aeriel for wireless router
Tim W wrote:
an aerial is just a length of metal I think Sometimes with embedded voodo, the ones embedded within laptop screens especially so. Am I right in thinking I can leave the insulation on a length of copper wire and use that? Will the length I cut it at make a difference? I mean obviously it will be longer, maybe 30" instead of 3" but does it have to be a multiple of a wavelength or something? Usually 1/4 or 1/2 wavelength, but that'll be what you already have http://www.fpvuk.org/forum/index.php?topic=1391.0 I am guessing the aerial can be thin - a coat hanger not necessary here - but is solid copper better than strands? What's the velocity factor of a coathanger? If you want to make existing access point more directional, you could try this http://www.freeantennas.com/projects/Ez-10/ |
#4
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diy aeriel for wireless router
On Jun 13, 8:48*am, Andy Burns wrote:
Tim W wrote: an aerial is just a length of metal I think Sometimes with embedded voodo, the ones embedded within laptop screens especially so. Am I right in thinking I can leave the insulation on a length of copper wire and use that? Will the length I cut it at make a difference? I mean obviously it will be longer, maybe 30" instead of 3" but does it have to be a multiple of a wavelength or something? Usually 1/4 or 1/2 wavelength, but that'll be what you already have http://www.fpvuk.org/forum/index.php?topic=1391.0 I am guessing the aerial can be thin - a coat hanger not necessary here - but is solid copper better than strands? What's the velocity factor of a coathanger? If you want to make existing access point more directional, you could try this http://www.freeantennas.com/projects/Ez-10/ I get similar moans from my son whose pc is at the other end of the house and having been in electronics, though not RF, can at least do all the making part. I read through the links and was rewarded at least in understanding why a coat hanger might have a velocity factor :) - no doubt this factor was mentioned in my training all too many years ago now. Two questions - why does the designer of the aerial on the FPV forum not take the velocity factor into account, and why does it only apply to the 'folded' back section - I can't see that the 'bazooka' configuration is any different electrically? Rob |
#5
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diy aeriel for wireless router
On Mon, 13 Jun 2011 08:26:40 +0100, "Tim W"
wrote: Am I right in thinking I can leave the insulation on a length of copper wire and use that? Will the length I cut it at make a difference? I mean obviously it will be longer, maybe 30" instead of 3" but does it have to be a multiple of a wavelength or something? I am guessing the aerial can be thin - a coat hanger not necessary here ?? Thin implies sharply tuned. It's unlikely to be anything like right. For a Yagi type beam think in terms of elements at least the diameter of a pencil. Microbore copper tubing would spring to mind. I do possess a comercially made beam. If anybody wants the dimensions email me. Derek G. - but is solid copper better than strands? Tim W |
#6
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diy aeriel for wireless router
On Mon, 13 Jun 2011 08:26:40 +0100, Tim W wrote:
Family complaining about poor internet wireless reception around the castle. A quick search and I see the first thing to try before boosters and repeaters is simply a bigger aerial on the router (currently 3" long) at a cost of around £20. Being a tight wad I thought I might test a home made aerial first - an aerial is just a length of metal I think - and am considering how to do it. Am I right in thinking I can leave the insulation on a length of copper wire and use that? Will the length I cut it at make a difference? I mean obviously it will be longer, maybe 30" instead of 3" but does it have to be a multiple of a wavelength or something? I am guessing the aerial can be thin - a coat hanger not necessary here - but is solid copper better than strands? A bigger aerial doesn't help on a transmitter, only on a receiver. That makes it useless on a wireless router. The electrical length of the aerial is fairly critical to it's performance (and isn't usually the same as the mechanical length!). Also, many router aerials are actually a solid or flexible core with the aerial wire wound around it. The whole thing is then covered with insulation. If you want to try a mod then go ahead, but I doubt very much if it will make things better - probably much worse so make sure that your mod is easily reversible! As the original is almost certainly tuned to 1/4 wavelength you could try something exactly twice the length to make it 1/2 wave or even work out a length for 5/8 wavelength (which is probably better than either but not legal as it has gain). The very best way to get more range is to move the unit to a central location in the house. If that doesn't work very well for keeping the ADSL lead short then you could add a separate non-wireless ADSL router and connect it to the wireless one using CAT5, effectively putting them on their own wired network. -- Mick (Working in a M$-free zone!) Web: http://www.nascom.info Filtering everything posted from googlegroups to kill spam. |
#7
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diy aeriel for wireless router
In article , Andy
Burns scribeth thus Tim W wrote: an aerial is just a length of metal I think Sometimes with embedded voodo, the ones embedded within laptop screens especially so. Am I right in thinking I can leave the insulation on a length of copper wire and use that? Will the length I cut it at make a difference? I mean obviously it will be longer, maybe 30" instead of 3" but does it have to be a multiple of a wavelength or something? Usually 1/4 or 1/2 wavelength, but that'll be what you already have http://www.fpvuk.org/forum/index.php?topic=1391.0 I am guessing the aerial can be thin - a coat hanger not necessary here - but is solid copper better than strands? What's the velocity factor of a coathanger? If you want to make existing access point more directional, you could try this http://www.freeantennas.com/projects/Ez-10/ You'd be better off getting another Access point and relaying the one you have. Unless you want to improve the range of this existing system in -One- direction i.e. focusing the power you have rather than broadcasting it then any additional aerial you add onto the existing ones isn't likely to make it any better.. BTW .. Aeriel is spelt Aerial ;!... -- Tony Sayer |
#8
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diy aeriel for wireless router
In article
s.com, robgraham scribeth thus On Jun 13, 8:48*am, Andy Burns wrote: Tim W wrote: an aerial is just a length of metal I think Sometimes with embedded voodo, the ones embedded within laptop screens especially so. Am I right in thinking I can leave the insulation on a length of copper wire and use that? Will the length I cut it at make a difference? I mean obviously it will be longer, maybe 30" instead of 3" but does it have to be a multiple of a wavelength or something? Usually 1/4 or 1/2 wavelength, but that'll be what you already have http://www.fpvuk.org/forum/index.php?topic=1391.0 I am guessing the aerial can be thin - a coat hanger not necessary here - but is solid copper better than strands? What's the velocity factor of a coathanger? If you want to make existing access point more directional, you could try this http://www.freeantennas.com/projects/Ez-10/ I get similar moans from my son whose pc is at the other end of the house and having been in electronics, though not RF, can at least do all the making part. I read through the links and was rewarded at least in understanding why a coat hanger might have a velocity factor :) - no doubt this factor was mentioned in my training all too many years ago now. Two questions - why does the designer of the aerial on the FPV forum not take the velocity factor into account, and why does it only apply to the 'folded' back section - I can't see that the 'bazooka' configuration is any different electrically? Rob The velocity factor is the slowing of a Radio frequency signal in a metal as In metals they travel slower than free space... Its all there on goggle... -- Tony Sayer |
#9
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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diy aeriel for wireless router
In article , Derek G.
scribeth thus On Mon, 13 Jun 2011 08:26:40 +0100, "Tim W" wrote: Am I right in thinking I can leave the insulation on a length of copper wire and use that? Will the length I cut it at make a difference? I mean obviously it will be longer, maybe 30" instead of 3" but does it have to be a multiple of a wavelength or something? I am guessing the aerial can be thin - a coat hanger not necessary here ?? Thin implies sharply tuned. It's unlikely to be anything like right. Diameter of the radiating elements has a function on bandwidth.. For a Yagi type beam think in terms of elements at least the diameter of a pencil. Microbore copper tubing would spring to mind. Useful stuff.. I do possess a comercially made beam. If anybody wants the dimensions email me. Derek G. - but is solid copper better than strands? Not in this instance at those frequencies .. conduction is on the surface of the metal, look up "skin effect"... Tim W -- Tony Sayer |
#10
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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diy aeriel for wireless router
On Jun 13, 9:38*am, tony sayer wrote:
In article s.com, robgraham scribeth thus On Jun 13, 8:48*am, Andy Burns wrote: Tim W wrote: an aerial is just a length of metal I think Sometimes with embedded voodo, the ones embedded within laptop screens especially so. Am I right in thinking I can leave the insulation on a length of copper wire and use that? Will the length I cut it at make a difference? I mean obviously it will be longer, maybe 30" instead of 3" but does it have to be a multiple of a wavelength or something? Usually 1/4 or 1/2 wavelength, but that'll be what you already have http://www.fpvuk.org/forum/index.php?topic=1391.0 I am guessing the aerial can be thin - a coat hanger not necessary here - but is solid copper better than strands? What's the velocity factor of a coathanger? If you want to make existing access point more directional, you could try this http://www.freeantennas.com/projects/Ez-10/ I get similar moans from my son whose pc is at the other end of the house and having been in electronics, though not RF, can at least do all the making part. I read through the links and was rewarded at least in understanding why a coat hanger might have a velocity factor :) - no doubt this factor was mentioned in my training all too many years ago now. Two questions - why does the designer of the aerial on the FPV forum not take the velocity factor into account, and why does it only apply to the 'folded' back section - I can't see that the 'bazooka' configuration is any different electrically? Rob The velocity factor is the slowing of a Radio frequency signal in a metal as In metals they travel slower than free space... Its all there on goggle... -- Tony Sayer Yep, Tony - been to Google and read that. Google might answer my exact questions if I could find the right search terms but then that doesn't help anyone else. It's the exact questions that require the answer. Rob |
#11
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diy aeriel for wireless router
On 13 Jun 2011 08:32:13 GMT, mick wrote:
A bigger aerial doesn't help on a transmitter, only on a receiver. Rubbish. That makes it useless on a wireless router. A wireless router also recieves how else does it provide a bidirectional link? -- Cheers Dave. |
#12
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diy aeriel for wireless router
In message on Mon, 13 Jun 2011 09:35:47 +0100
tony sayer wrote: In article , Andy Burns scribeth thus If you want to make existing access point more directional, you could try this http://www.freeantennas.com/projects/Ez-10/ You'd be better off getting another Access point and relaying the one you have. Unless you want to improve the range of this existing system in -One- direction i.e. focusing the power you have rather than broadcasting it then any additional aerial you add onto the existing ones isn't likely to make it any better.. BTW .. Aeriel is spelt Aerial ;!... If, as Tony says, you can live with a uni-directional aerial - depends, of course, on the location of all receivers wrt to the transmitter - the corner director in Andy's link should do the trick and costs virtually nothing. Forget about velocity factors and coat hangers - anything you come up with will be worse than you've already got, unless you built a well designed multi element directional aerial at considerable expense ... Note the important words the 'well designed' 'directional' 'expense' and compare with about fourpence for the much better corner reflector with proven performance ... Otherwise follow Tony's advice ... -- Terry |
#13
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diy aeriel for wireless router
"robgraham" wrote in message ... Yep, Tony - been to Google and read that. Google might answer my exact questions if I could find the right search terms but then that doesn't help anyone else. It's the exact questions that require the answer. The velocity factor affects the length required to be a wavelength. It affects the matching, etc and hence the performance at the required frequency. E.g. a quarter wave isn't the same in free air as it is in coax or on a yagi for the same frequency. I would move the router about before touching the aerials. A move of a few inches can make a big difference. |
#14
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diy aeriel for wireless router
"Tim W" wrote in message ... Family complaining about poor internet wireless reception around the castle. .... bigger aerial on the router ....tight wad ....home made ... Thanks for replies. We won't mess with the aerial for the minute. We will start with a tinfoil reflector on the router aerial. Then a colander/seive dish on the usb dongle thing on the PC upstairs. Kids won't thank me for that, they want technology that costs money. Tim w |
#15
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diy aeriel for wireless router
In message m, mick
writes A bigger aerial doesn't help on a transmitter, only on a receiver. Don't transmitters have antennae? -- hugh "Believe nothing. No matter where you read it, Or who said it, Even if I have said it, Unless it agrees with your own reason And your own common sense." Buddha |
#16
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diy aeriel for wireless router
The velocity factor is the slowing of a Radio frequency signal in a
metal as In metals they travel slower than free space... Its all there on goggle... -- Tony Sayer Yep, Tony - been to Google and read that. Google might answer my exact questions if I could find the right search terms but then that doesn't help anyone else. It's the exact questions that require the answer. Rob So what exactly do you want to know then?... -- Tony Sayer |
#17
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diy aeriel for wireless router
hugh wrote:
In message m, mick writes A bigger aerial doesn't help on a transmitter, only on a receiver. Don't transmitters have antennae? course the do, and that's why they put a couple of inches on Droitwich instead of the 200 meter tall towers and ground planes they thought they needed before mick told them they had been wasting their time for 60 years. |
#18
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diy aeriel for wireless router
"Tim W" wrote in message ... "Tim W" wrote in message ... Family complaining about poor internet wireless reception around the castle. .... bigger aerial on the router ....tight wad ....home made ... We won't mess with the aerial for the minute. We will start with a tinfoil reflector on the router aerial. Then a colander/seive dish on the usb dongle thing on the PC upstairs. Kids won't thank me for that, they want technology that costs money. And reporting that they both make a significant difference. Problem solved.Cost nil Tim W |
#19
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diy aeriel for wireless router
We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember "Tim W" saying something like: We won't mess with the aerial for the minute. We will start with a tinfoil reflector on the router aerial. Then a colander/seive dish on the usb dongle thing on the PC upstairs. Kids won't thank me for that, they want technology that costs money. And reporting that they both make a significant difference. Problem solved.Cost nil I found that out a few years ago after discovering the New Zealand site. http://www.usbwifi.orconhosting.net.nz/ |
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