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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Hi,
As in header. I have a Haws traditional can that's just about 2 years old (birthday present) ![]() Unfortunately I noticed the centre of the base had pushed out causing it to rock around ( maybe frost?) so I tapped it back into line and now see a slight weep/leak from the welding around the base ![]() Any ideas as to best way if any to repair? Thanks. Stuart. |
#2
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SRT wrote:
Hi, As in header. I have a Haws traditional can that's just about 2 years old (birthday present) ![]() Unfortunately I noticed the centre of the base had pushed out causing it to rock around ( maybe frost?) so I tapped it back into line and now see a slight weep/leak from the welding around the base ![]() Any ideas as to best way if any to repair? Thanks. Stuart. plumbers solder and blowlamp/plumbers flux. |
#3
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On Thu, 21 Apr 2011 13:36:27 +0100, The Natural Philosopher
wrote: SRT wrote: Hi, As in header. I have a Haws traditional can that's just about 2 years old (birthday present) ![]() Unfortunately I noticed the centre of the base had pushed out causing it to rock around ( maybe frost?) so I tapped it back into line and now see a slight weep/leak from the welding around the base ![]() Any ideas as to best way if any to repair? Thanks. Stuart. plumbers solder and blowlamp/plumbers flux. Will that "stick" to the *galvanised* can, though? MM |
#4
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MM wrote:
On Thu, 21 Apr 2011 13:36:27 +0100, The Natural Philosopher wrote: SRT wrote: Hi, As in header. I have a Haws traditional can that's just about 2 years old (birthday present) ![]() Unfortunately I noticed the centre of the base had pushed out causing it to rock around ( maybe frost?) so I tapped it back into line and now see a slight weep/leak from the welding around the base ![]() Any ideas as to best way if any to repair? Thanks. Stuart. plumbers solder and blowlamp/plumbers flux. Will that "stick" to the *galvanised* can, though? absolutely. its only zinc, and that solders well. MM |
#5
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The Natural Philosopher expressed precisely :
SRT wrote: Hi, As in header. I have a Haws traditional can that's just about 2 years old (birthday present) ![]() Unfortunately I noticed the centre of the base had pushed out causing it to rock around ( maybe frost?) so I tapped it back into line and now see a slight weep/leak from the welding around the base ![]() Any ideas as to best way if any to repair? Thanks. Stuart. plumbers solder and blowlamp/plumbers flux. That will not 'take' on a galv finish. I don't think they even solder them when new - I think they just fold the base/sides together, then rely on the galv dip to provide the final seal. I would be inclined to suggest running some paint around the inside lip, hoping it were thin enough to make its way into the leak point and seal it. -- Regards, Harry (M1BYT) (L) http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk |
#6
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Harry Bloomfield wrote:
The Natural Philosopher expressed precisely : SRT wrote: Hi, As in header. I have a Haws traditional can that's just about 2 years old (birthday present) ![]() Unfortunately I noticed the centre of the base had pushed out causing it to rock around ( maybe frost?) so I tapped it back into line and now see a slight weep/leak from the welding around the base ![]() Any ideas as to best way if any to repair? Thanks. Stuart. plumbers solder and blowlamp/plumbers flux. That will not 'take' on a galv finish. it will with an agressive flux. |
#7
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On Thu, 21 Apr 2011 13:33:44 +0100, "SRT" wrote:
Hi, As in header. I have a Haws traditional can that's just about 2 years old (birthday present) ![]() Unfortunately I noticed the centre of the base had pushed out causing it to rock around ( maybe frost?) so I tapped it back into line and now see a slight weep/leak from the welding around the base ![]() Any ideas as to best way if any to repair? Thanks. Stuart. Exactly the same thing happened to mine, also galvanised, bought at ASDA. I used a hot glue gun to force glue into the join. That was five years ago and it's started to leak a bit again, so I'll just give it the same treatment. MM |
#8
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![]() "MM" wrote in message ... On Thu, 21 Apr 2011 13:33:44 +0100, "SRT" wrote: Hi, As in header. I have a Haws traditional can that's just about 2 years old (birthday present) ![]() Unfortunately I noticed the centre of the base had pushed out causing it to rock around ( maybe frost?) so I tapped it back into line and now see a slight weep/leak from the welding around the base ![]() Any ideas as to best way if any to repair? Thanks. Stuart. A bead of butyl sealant around the joint from the inside |
#9
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![]() "TMC" wrote in message ... "MM" wrote in message ... On Thu, 21 Apr 2011 13:33:44 +0100, "SRT" wrote: Hi, As in header. I have a Haws traditional can that's just about 2 years old (birthday present) ![]() Unfortunately I noticed the centre of the base had pushed out causing it to rock around ( maybe frost?) so I tapped it back into line and now see a slight weep/leak from the welding around the base ![]() Any ideas as to best way if any to repair? Thanks. Stuart. A bead of butyl sealant around the joint from the inside Thanks for the replies folks ![]() That's me sorted for a bit this weekend - - -maybe I wont have to do much in garden now - - - - fat chance ![]() |
#10
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![]() "SRT" wrote in message ... Any ideas as to best way if any to repair? In the dark ages the fix was to take 2 steel washers, 2 rubber washers, drill through the crack and bolt washers either side to make the seal. Don't know whether they still sell a "kit of parts" but these bits are easy enough to find in garage junk boxes. |
#11
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On Apr 21, 4:25*pm, "Roger Cain"
wrote: In the dark ages the fix was to take 2 steel washers, 2 rubber washers, drill through the crack and bolt washers either side to make the seal. Good fix for rust pinholes, but it won't work near a non-flat seam. I'd dry it out well (maybe on the stove a bit) then paint the inside with some bitumen black paint (cheap from Screwfix, dead handy). Two coats should seal any crimped joints that have sprung open. |
#12
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On Thursday, 21 April 2011 13:33:44 UTC+1, SRT wrote:
Hi, As in header. I have a Haws traditional can that's just about 2 years old (birthday present) ![]() Unfortunately I noticed the centre of the base had pushed out causing it to rock around ( maybe frost?) so I tapped it back into line and now see a slight weep/leak from the welding around the base ![]() Any ideas as to best way if any to repair? Thanks. Stuart. Mine is a Haws too and it's a favourite as has a long spout. The frost also got mine and it is leaking all round the base. I wonder if there is any 'rubber' type paint one could do on the inside and outside? |
#13
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On Tuesday, 10 April 2018 23:12:32 UTC+1, wrote:
On Thursday, 21 April 2011 13:33:44 UTC+1, SRT wrote: Hi, As in header. I have a Haws traditional can that's just about 2 years old (birthday present) ![]() Unfortunately I noticed the centre of the base had pushed out causing it to rock around ( maybe frost?) so I tapped it back into line and now see a slight weep/leak from the welding around the base ![]() Any ideas as to best way if any to repair? Thanks. Stuart. Mine is a Haws too and it's a favourite as has a long spout. The frost also got mine and it is leaking all round the base. I wonder if there is any 'rubber' type paint one could do on the inside and outside? There's silicone. Or epoxy. NT |
#14
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On Tue, 10 Apr 2018 15:12:29 -0700 (PDT)
wrote: Mine is a Haws too and it's a favourite as has a long spout. The frost also got mine and it is leaking all round the base. I wonder if there is any 'rubber' type paint one could do on the inside and outside? You can get special low temperature solder that works on galvanised steel. |
#15
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On Wed, 11 Apr 2018 03:25:08 +0100, Rob Morley wrote:
You can get special low temperature solder that works on galvanised steel. Aside from the fact that the original can leaked in 2011: regular tin/lead or tin solder will work on galvanised steel, also on sheet zinc. Just don't overheat, i.e. an electric iron is better than a blowlamp (which may burn off the zinc, or melt a hole in sheet zinc). Zinc chloride is a good flux, used to known as "killed spirits of salt". Thomas Prufer |
#16
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On Wednesday, 11 April 2018 11:39:45 UTC+1, Thomas Prufer wrote:
On Wed, 11 Apr 2018 03:25:08 +0100, Rob Morley wrote: You can get special low temperature solder that works on galvanised steel. Aside from the fact that the original can leaked in 2011: regular tin/lead or tin solder will work on galvanised steel, also on sheet zinc. Just don't overheat, i.e. an electric iron is better than a blowlamp (which may burn off the zinc, or melt a hole in sheet zinc). Zinc chloride is a good flux, used to known as "killed spirits of salt". Thomas Prufer The question was asked 21 hours ago. Tin/lead solder will work in the sense that it goes on, if the workpiece is got spotless, which may be a challenge. But it has near zero strength. NT |
#17
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wrote in message
... On Wednesday, 11 April 2018 11:39:45 UTC+1, Thomas Prufer wrote: On Wed, 11 Apr 2018 03:25:08 +0100, Rob Morley wrote: You can get special low temperature solder that works on galvanised steel. Aside from the fact that the original can leaked in 2011: regular tin/lead or tin solder will work on galvanised steel, also on sheet zinc. Just don't overheat, i.e. an electric iron is better than a blowlamp (which may burn off the zinc, or melt a hole in sheet zinc). Zinc chloride is a good flux, used to known as "killed spirits of salt". Thomas Prufer The question was asked 21 hours ago. Tin/lead solder will work in the sense that it goes on, if the workpiece is got spotless, which may be a challenge. But it has near zero strength. NT CLEAN galvanised steel solders very nicely using the new 'lead free' solder - in fact it's about the only thing I've found that it is useful for ! I bend up small boxes and fitting from 1.2 mm 'Zintec' sheet and fillet all the corners with this stuff. Take a time getting used to the longer liquidus but the results are very good given practice. Andrew |
#18
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