On Thursday, 21 April 2011 13:33:44 UTC+1, SRT wrote:
Hi,
As in header. I have a Haws traditional can that's just about 2 years old
(birthday present)
Unfortunately I noticed the centre of the base had pushed out causing it to
rock around ( maybe frost?)
so I tapped it back into line and now see a slight weep/leak from the
welding around the base
Any ideas as to best way if any to repair?
Thanks.
Stuart.

Mine is a Haws too and it's a favourite as has a long spout. The frost also got mine and it is leaking all round the base. I wonder if there is any 'rubber' type paint one could do on the inside and outside?

On Tuesday, 10 April 2018 23:12:32 UTC+1, wrote:
On Thursday, 21 April 2011 13:33:44 UTC+1, SRT wrote:

Hi,
As in header. I have a Haws traditional can that's just about 2 years old
(birthday present)
Unfortunately I noticed the centre of the base had pushed out causing it to
rock around ( maybe frost?)
so I tapped it back into line and now see a slight weep/leak from the
welding around the base
Any ideas as to best way if any to repair?
Thanks.
Stuart.

Mine is a Haws too and it's a favourite as has a long spout. The frost also got mine and it is leaking all round the base. I wonder if there is any 'rubber' type paint one could do on the inside and outside?

There's silicone. Or epoxy.


NT

On Tue, 10 Apr 2018 15:12:29 -0700 (PDT)
wrote:

Mine is a Haws too and it's a favourite as has a long spout. The
frost also got mine and it is leaking all round the base. I wonder
if there is any 'rubber' type paint one could do on the inside and
outside?

You can get special low temperature solder that works on galvanised
steel.

On Wed, 11 Apr 2018 03:25:08 +0100, Rob Morley wrote:

You can get special low temperature solder that works on galvanised
steel.

Aside from the fact that the original can leaked in 2011: regular tin/lead or
tin solder will work on galvanised steel, also on sheet zinc. Just don't
overheat, i.e. an electric iron is better than a blowlamp (which may burn off
the zinc, or melt a hole in sheet zinc). Zinc chloride is a good flux, used to
known as "killed spirits of salt".


Thomas Prufer

On Wednesday, 11 April 2018 11:39:45 UTC+1, Thomas Prufer wrote:
On Wed, 11 Apr 2018 03:25:08 +0100, Rob Morley wrote:

You can get special low temperature solder that works on galvanised
steel.

Aside from the fact that the original can leaked in 2011: regular tin/lead or
tin solder will work on galvanised steel, also on sheet zinc. Just don't
overheat, i.e. an electric iron is better than a blowlamp (which may burn off
the zinc, or melt a hole in sheet zinc). Zinc chloride is a good flux, used to
known as "killed spirits of salt".


Thomas Prufer

The question was asked 21 hours ago. Tin/lead solder will work in the sense that it goes on, if the workpiece is got spotless, which may be a challenge. But it has near zero strength.


NT

wrote in message
...

On Wednesday, 11 April 2018 11:39:45 UTC+1, Thomas Prufer wrote:
On Wed, 11 Apr 2018 03:25:08 +0100, Rob Morley
wrote:

You can get special low temperature solder that works on galvanised
steel.

Aside from the fact that the original can leaked in 2011: regular
tin/lead or
tin solder will work on galvanised steel, also on sheet zinc. Just don't
overheat, i.e. an electric iron is better than a blowlamp (which may burn
off
the zinc, or melt a hole in sheet zinc). Zinc chloride is a good flux,
used to
known as "killed spirits of salt".


Thomas Prufer

The question was asked 21 hours ago. Tin/lead solder will work in the sense
that it goes on, if the workpiece is got spotless, which may be a
challenge. But it has near zero strength.


NT

CLEAN galvanised steel solders very nicely using the new 'lead free'
solder - in fact it's about the only thing I've found that it is useful for
! I bend up small boxes and fitting from 1.2 mm 'Zintec' sheet and fillet
all the corners with this stuff. Take a time getting used to the longer
liquidus but the results are very good given practice.

Andrew

On Wednesday, 11 April 2018 21:52:28 UTC+1, Andrew Mawson wrote:
NT wrote in message
...
On Wednesday, 11 April 2018 11:39:45 UTC+1, Thomas Prufer wrote:
On Wed, 11 Apr 2018 03:25:08 +0100, Rob Morley
wrote:

You can get special low temperature solder that works on galvanised
steel.

Aside from the fact that the original can leaked in 2011: regular
tin/lead or
tin solder will work on galvanised steel, also on sheet zinc. Just don't
overheat, i.e. an electric iron is better than a blowlamp (which may burn
off
the zinc, or melt a hole in sheet zinc). Zinc chloride is a good flux,
used to
known as "killed spirits of salt".


Thomas Prufer

The question was asked 21 hours ago. Tin/lead solder will work in the sense
that it goes on, if the workpiece is got spotless, which may be a
challenge. But it has near zero strength.


NT

CLEAN galvanised steel solders very nicely using the new 'lead free'
solder - in fact it's about the only thing I've found that it is useful for
! I bend up small boxes and fitting from 1.2 mm 'Zintec' sheet and fillet
all the corners with this stuff. Take a time getting used to the longer
liquidus but the results are very good given practice.

Andrew

epoxy would be stronger


NT

wrote:
On Thursday, 21 April 2011 13:33:44 UTC+1, SRT wrote:
Hi,
As in header. I have a Haws traditional can that's just about 2 years old
(birthday present)
Unfortunately I noticed the centre of the base had pushed out causing it to
rock around ( maybe frost?)
so I tapped it back into line and now see a slight weep/leak from the
welding around the base
Any ideas as to best way if any to repair?
Thanks.
Stuart.

Mine is a Haws too and it's a favourite as has a long spout. The frost also got mine and it is leaking all round the base. I wonder if there is any 'rubber' type paint one could do on the inside and outside?

POR15 but may cost more than the can.

2011, I'm still looking for this time machine.
Brian

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"FMurtz" wrote in message
...
wrote:
On Thursday, 21 April 2011 13:33:44 UTC+1, SRT wrote:
Hi,
As in header. I have a Haws traditional can that's just about 2 years
old
(birthday present)
Unfortunately I noticed the centre of the base had pushed out causing it
to
rock around ( maybe frost?)
so I tapped it back into line and now see a slight weep/leak from the
welding around the base
Any ideas as to best way if any to repair?
Thanks.
Stuart.

Mine is a Haws too and it's a favourite as has a long spout. The frost
also got mine and it is leaking all round the base. I wonder if there is
any 'rubber' type paint one could do on the inside and outside?

POR15 but may cost more than the can.