I have some connections to make for a ceiling light, switch and run-on
timer. The light fitting does not have any loop-in terminals, just L
and N.
The connection groups to be made a
permanent live (3 items): feed from CU, feed to switch, timer perm
live
switched live (3 items): return from switch, lamp, timer trigger
neutral (4 items): feed from CU, lamp, timer neutral, fan neutral

In the past I would just do all this in those brown junction boxes
under the floor.
However, the floor above is hardboarded and vinyl covered, so the
floor space is not really accessible.
I need to have all the above connections accessible as per the regs.

Options:
1. Fit them into the back of the timer wall box (don't think they
would fit)
2. Put them into an empty wall box with blank plate on the front
3. As (2) but put my fan isolator there instead of a blanking plate
and use box deep enough for all connections
4. Put all the connections in the light fitting (they would be in an
enclosed space a couple of inches from the bulb and would get hot).

What's the best / usual method in this situation ?

Thanks,
Simon.

sm_jamieson wrote:
I have some connections to make for a ceiling light, switch and run-on
timer. The light fitting does not have any loop-in terminals, just L
and N.
The connection groups to be made a
permanent live (3 items): feed from CU, feed to switch, timer perm
live
switched live (3 items): return from switch, lamp, timer trigger
neutral (4 items): feed from CU, lamp, timer neutral, fan neutral

In the past I would just do all this in those brown junction boxes
under the floor.
However, the floor above is hardboarded and vinyl covered, so the
floor space is not really accessible.
I need to have all the above connections accessible as per the regs.

Options:
1. Fit them into the back of the timer wall box (don't think they
would fit)

What timer is it?

2. Put them into an empty wall box with blank plate on the front

3. As (2) but put my fan isolator there instead of a blanking plate
and use box deep enough for all connections

Neat. And if you needed more space for the connections then use a dual
accessory box that has a blank plate over one side and is sunk deep so that
the blanking plate is below the plaster level. It nearly doubles the amount
of space you have .

4. Put all the connections in the light fitting (they would be in an
enclosed space a couple of inches from the bulb and would get hot).
Forget that.

--
Adam

On Apr 2, 10:14*pm, "ARWadsworth"
wrote:
sm_jamieson wrote:
I have some connections to make for a ceiling light, switch and run-on
timer. The light fitting does not have any loop-in terminals, just L
and N.
The connection groups to be made a
permanent live (3 items): feed from CU, feed to switch, timer perm
live
switched live (3 items): return from switch, lamp, timer trigger
neutral (4 items): feed from CU, lamp, timer neutral, fan neutral

In the past I would just do all this in those brown junction boxes
under the floor.
However, the floor above is hardboarded and vinyl covered, so the
floor space is not really accessible.
I need to have all the above connections accessible as per the regs.

Options:
1. Fit them into the back of the timer wall box (don't think they
would fit)

What timer is it?

Is an xpelair DT20B, comes with a plastic box for surface mounting but
can also fit into
a standard back box.


2. Put them into an empty wall box with blank plate on the front
3. As (2) but put my fan isolator there instead of a blanking plate
and use box deep enough for all connections

Neat. And if you needed more space for the connections then use a dual
accessory box that has a blank plate over one side and is sunk deep so that
the blanking plate is below the plaster level. It nearly doubles the amount
of space you have .

The isolator was going to be next to the fan, which will be behind a
bridging cabinet
above a fridge, and only accessible with the fridge pulled out (unless
I put the isolator into the back panel
of the bridging unit). Do you think its better to have the fan
isolator next to the run-on timer where
it would be more accessible ? (that could swing the decision between
using (3) above, or a junction
box as Owain suggested.
By the way, this is the last bit of wiring I have to sort out for the
kitchen.
Cheers,
Simon.

sm_jamieson wrote:
On Apr 2, 10:14 pm, "ARWadsworth"
wrote:
sm_jamieson wrote:
I have some connections to make for a ceiling light, switch and
run-on timer. The light fitting does not have any loop-in
terminals, just L and N.
The connection groups to be made a
permanent live (3 items): feed from CU, feed to switch, timer perm
live
switched live (3 items): return from switch, lamp, timer trigger
neutral (4 items): feed from CU, lamp, timer neutral, fan neutral

In the past I would just do all this in those brown junction boxes
under the floor.
However, the floor above is hardboarded and vinyl covered, so the
floor space is not really accessible.
I need to have all the above connections accessible as per the regs.

Options:
1. Fit them into the back of the timer wall box (don't think they
would fit)

What timer is it?

Is an xpelair DT20B, comes with a plastic box for surface mounting but
can also fit into
a standard back box.

The manual says a 45mm deep box:-)

2. Put them into an empty wall box with blank plate on the front
3. As (2) but put my fan isolator there instead of a blanking plate
and use box deep enough for all connections

Neat. And if you needed more space for the connections then use a
dual accessory box that has a blank plate over one side and is sunk
deep so that the blanking plate is below the plaster level. It
nearly doubles the amount of space you have .

The isolator was going to be next to the fan, which will be behind a
bridging cabinet
above a fridge, and only accessible with the fridge pulled out (unless
I put the isolator into the back panel
of the bridging unit). Do you think its better to have the fan
isolator next to the run-on timer where
it would be more accessible ? (that could swing the decision between
using (3) above, or a junction
box as Owain suggested.
By the way, this is the last bit of wiring I have to sort out for the
kitchen.

I don't think it matters either way.
--
Adam

On Apr 3, 1:16*pm, "ARWadsworth"
wrote:
sm_jamieson wrote:
On Apr 2, 10:14 pm, "ARWadsworth"
wrote:
sm_jamieson wrote:
I have some connections to make for a ceiling light, switch and
run-on timer. The light fitting does not have any loop-in
terminals, just L and N.
The connection groups to be made a
permanent live (3 items): feed from CU, feed to switch, timer perm
live
switched live (3 items): return from switch, lamp, timer trigger
neutral (4 items): feed from CU, lamp, timer neutral, fan neutral

In the past I would just do all this in those brown junction boxes
under the floor.
However, the floor above is hardboarded and vinyl covered, so the
floor space is not really accessible.
I need to have all the above connections accessible as per the regs.

Options:
1. Fit them into the back of the timer wall box (don't think they
would fit)

What timer is it?

Is an xpelair DT20B, comes with a plastic box for surface mounting but
can also fit into
a standard back box.

The manual says a 45mm deep box:-)



2. Put them into an empty wall box with blank plate on the front
3. As (2) but put my fan isolator there instead of a blanking plate
and use box deep enough for all connections

Neat. And if you needed more space for the connections then use a
dual accessory box that has a blank plate over one side and is sunk
deep so that the blanking plate is below the plaster level. It
nearly doubles the amount of space you have .

The isolator was going to be next to the fan, which will be behind a
bridging cabinet
above a fridge, and only accessible with the fridge pulled out (unless
I put the isolator into the back panel
of the bridging unit). Do you think its better to have the fan
isolator next to the run-on timer where
it would be more accessible ? (that could swing the decision between
using (3) above, or a junction
box as Owain suggested.
By the way, this is the last bit of wiring I have to sort out for the
kitchen.

I don't think it matters either way.
--
Adam

Well I've ordered 2 of the wagobox starter kits and some mounting
buttons.
The various bits will come in handy for the fan connections and
another junction box I need.
Simon.