Not sure which of these might be any good.

Found these...
diagram:
http://www.myson.co.uk/downloads/Matchmate.pdf
pictu
http://www.uk-plumbing.com/Myson-Mat...rce=googlebase
cheaper:
http://www.heatandplumbtastic.com/ma...ld-angled/p757
or
http://www.heatingproductstogo.co.uk/page11.html

And the more basic ones like this:
http://www.ukhps.co.uk/cosmos-radiat...mm-7702-0.html
http://www.onplumb.com/trade-save-15...-tsrv15do.html
etc etc

The Myson method of draining looks a bit of a faff, but that mechanism
makes them slightly smaller than the basic ones.

I care about what they look like, but care about buying something
that's reliable / doesn't leak / will work when I need it to.

Given that I need 10-14 of the things (not sure every radiator needs
one, or has the space for one), cheap would be good too.

Anyone got any experience with either of these? Or others?

Cheers,
David.

David Robinson wrote:

I care about what they look like, but care about buying something
that's reliable / doesn't leak / will work when I need it to.

Given that I need 10-14 of the things (not sure every radiator needs
one, or has the space for one), cheap would be good too.

Anyone got any experience with either of these? Or others?

Depends what you've got below or near the lockshield, in cases where
there would normally be an elbow, I tend to replace with a tee, and use
one of these

http://www.uk-plumbing.com/bmz_cache/0/066d94da3f8e52c0379384e55ec5c968.image.250x250.jpg

"David Robinson" wrote in message
...
Not sure which of these might be any good.

Found these...
diagram:
http://www.myson.co.uk/downloads/Matchmate.pdf
pictu
http://www.uk-plumbing.com/Myson-Mat...rce=googlebase
cheaper:
http://www.heatandplumbtastic.com/ma...ld-angled/p757
or
http://www.heatingproductstogo.co.uk/page11.html

And the more basic ones like this:
http://www.ukhps.co.uk/cosmos-radiat...mm-7702-0.html
http://www.onplumb.com/trade-save-15...-tsrv15do.html
etc etc

The Myson method of draining looks a bit of a faff, but that mechanism
makes them slightly smaller than the basic ones.

I care about what they look like, but care about buying something
that's reliable / doesn't leak / will work when I need it to.

Given that I need 10-14 of the things (not sure every radiator needs
one, or has the space for one), cheap would be good too.

Anyone got any experience with either of these? Or others?

Cheers,
David.




Remember that the radiator will be at pressure so you cant prevent it from
****ing out some water by just closing the valves and the air vent.

I have these and the screwdriver operated drain seems good - you can have a
hose fitted to the drain end.

http://www.plumbingsupplyservices.co...std_valve.html

In article , John
writes

Remember that the radiator will be at pressure so you cant prevent it from
****ing out some water by just closing the valves and the air vent.

I did wonder about that but they suggest you release pressure on any
trapped air by opening the bleed vent first and then closing it before
opening the drain screw over a drip tray and fitting a hose

Possible faff, but they are dinky.
--
fred
FIVE TV's superbright logo - not the DOG's, it's ********

On 1 Oct, 17:11, "John" wrote:
"David Robinson" wrote in message

...





Not sure which of these might be any good.

Found these...
diagram:
http://www.myson.co.uk/downloads/Matchmate.pdf
pictu
http://www.uk-plumbing.com/Myson-Mat...eld-Drain-Off-...
cheaper:
http://www.heatandplumbtastic.com/ma...ed-15mm-drain-...
or
http://www.heatingproductstogo.co.uk/page11.html

And the more basic ones like this:
http://www.ukhps.co.uk/cosmos-radiat...-off-8-10-or-1...
http://www.onplumb.com/trade-save-15...ield-wheel-hea...
etc etc

The Myson method of draining looks a bit of a faff, but that mechanism
makes them slightly smaller than the basic ones.

I care about what they look like, but care about buying something
that's reliable / doesn't leak / will work when I need it to.

Given that I need 10-14 of the things (not sure every radiator needs
one, or has the space for one), cheap would be good too.

Anyone got any experience with either of these? Or others?

Cheers,
David.

Remember that the radiator will be at pressure so you cant prevent it from
****ing out some water by just closing the valves and the air vent.

I have these and the screwdriver operated drain seems good - you can have a
hose fitted to the drain end.

http://www.plumbingsupplyservices.co...std_valve.html

Do you think it matters, if I go for those, that the space between the
radiator and pipe will now be different than for anything else on the
market? Probably not enough to matter - but it would be a shame to
have to move the pipes if I needed to change a broken lockshield down
the line. Sometimes pipes won't stretch where you want!

I realise now I have a really stupid question: do people PTFE the
connections, or use boss white, or just hope? I'm asking about both
the screw thread into the radiator, and the compression-ish fitting
between the other end of that and the valve itself.

Cheers,
David.

In article
,
David Robinson writes

Do you think it matters, if I go for those, that the space between the
radiator and pipe will now be different than for anything else on the
market? Probably not enough to matter - but it would be a shame to
have to move the pipes if I needed to change a broken lockshield down
the line. Sometimes pipes won't stretch where you want!

I realise now I have a really stupid question: do people PTFE the
connections, or use boss white, or just hope? I'm asking about both
the screw thread into the radiator, and the compression-ish fitting
between the other end of that and the valve itself.

The threaded connections into the radiators?

Yes, they need sealed. My first experience of using ptfe tape was on
radiator stems and it was a complete disaster, many turns were used but
sharp burrs on the quality, brand named rad threads tore the tape and
25% had leaks. I remade the lot using one of the liquid thread sealing
compounds and not a drip since. You can remove burrs or pack more tape
but for peace of mind use thread sealant.

I happened to use Dow Corning PlumbaThread as it was cheap and easily
available from my local RS Trade Counter but loctite and many others are
available from the likes of Toolstation, Screwfix et al.

Don't waste too much time worrying about pipe location changes, you can
guarantee that whatever scheme you choose will be thwarted by some
incompatibility/obsolescence in the future.
--
fred
FIVE TV's superbright logo - not the DOG's, it's ********

On 1 Oct, 16:21, David Robinson
wrote:
Not sure which of these might be any good.

Found these...
diagram:http://www.myson.co.uk/downloads/Matchmate.pdf
pictuhttp://www.uk-plumbing.com/Myson-Mat...eld-Drain-Off-...
cheaper:http://www.heatandplumbtastic.com/ma...ed-15mm-drain-...
orhttp://www.heatingproductstogo.co.uk/page11.html

And the more basic ones like this:http://www.ukhps.co.uk/cosmos-radiat...ield-wheel-hea...
etc etc

The Myson method of draining looks a bit of a faff, but that mechanism
makes them slightly smaller than the basic ones.

I care about what they look like, but care about buying something
that's reliable / doesn't leak / will work when I need it to.

Given that I need 10-14 of the things (not sure every radiator needs
one, or has the space for one), cheap would be good too.

Anyone got any experience with either of these? Or others?

Cheers,
David.

The one with the hose connection and external drain valve is more
useful. Nothing like black radiator water for permanent stains to the
carpet.
The main benifit is that if the rad. valves are closed you can drain
the rad down and remove it (for decorating?) without effecting the
rest of the system. You can drain the rad down without spilling water
all over. You need to open the bleed valve to let air in as the
water drains down.

"fred" wrote in message ...
In article , John
writes

Remember that the radiator will be at pressure so you cant prevent it from
****ing out some water by just closing the valves and the air vent.

I did wonder about that but they suggest you release pressure on any
trapped air by opening the bleed vent first and then closing it before
opening the drain screw over a drip tray and fitting a hose

Possible faff, but they are dinky.
--
fred
FIVE TV's superbright logo - not the DOG's, it's ********




A large radiator will need to squirt out quite a bit before its pressure is
released.

On 01/10/2010 16:21, David Robinson wrote:
Not sure which of these might be any good.

Found these...
diagram:
http://www.myson.co.uk/downloads/Matchmate.pdf
pictu
http://www.uk-plumbing.com/Myson-Mat...rce=googlebase
cheaper:
http://www.heatandplumbtastic.com/ma...ld-angled/p757
or
http://www.heatingproductstogo.co.uk/page11.html

And the more basic ones like this:
http://www.ukhps.co.uk/cosmos-radiat...mm-7702-0.html
http://www.onplumb.com/trade-save-15...-tsrv15do.html
etc etc

The Myson method of draining looks a bit of a faff, but that mechanism
makes them slightly smaller than the basic ones.

I care about what they look like, but care about buying something
that's reliable / doesn't leak / will work when I need it to.

Given that I need 10-14 of the things (not sure every radiator needs
one, or has the space for one), cheap would be good too.

Anyone got any experience with either of these? Or others?

Cheers,
David.

I've got Matchmate drain-offs - as per your first reference - on
virtually all my rads, and they are brilliant.

They're very easy to install because the connections are dimensionally
identical to most ordinary 90 degree lockshields - so it's a straight
swap with no pipework changes. You need a bit of space at the end of the
rad, of course, in order to operate the drain. [I was unable to use one
on one of my rads because it's too close to the corner of the room].

They're also easy to use when you want to drain the rad. There's a
sequence of steps which you need to follow, but it's very
straightforward - and I certainly wouldn't regard it as a faff.

I proceed as follows:
1. Turn off both valves, making a note of how many turns are required to
shut the lockshield
2. Crack open the bleed screw to relieve the pressure (not usually
needed on a vented system) and close it again
3. Remove the plug from the drainpipe [1], having put an old towel
underneath to catch any drips - but virtually nothing comes out
4. Put a container[2] under the drain pipe to catch the outflow, and
open the bleed screw just a little in order to get a steady,
controllable, stream

Doubtless some clot will be along in a minute to tell you that you don't
need any of this - but simply need to carry the full radiator outside
with your thumbs over the ends of the tails. All I can say is that I'd
rather do that over *his* carpets than *mine*!

[1] By comparison, the cheapo type which you cite are a pain in the arse
because the rubber washer invariably sticks, and when it does release,
it leaks round the stem of the plug. The Matchmate plugs come straight
out with no messing

[2] I use a billie can (sp?) to catch the water, stopping the flow with
my thumb, and emptying the can into a bucket when nearly full. This way,
I can drain a radiator quite quickly with virtually no spillage
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

On 01/10/2010 17:50, David Robinson wrote:
On 1 Oct, 17:11, wrote:
"David wrote in message



http://www.plumbingsupplyservices.co...std_valve.html

Do you think it matters, if I go for those, that the space between the
radiator and pipe will now be different than for anything else on the
market? Probably not enough to matter - but it would be a shame to
have to move the pipes if I needed to change a broken lockshield down
the line. Sometimes pipes won't stretch where you want!


I avoided those because the pipework would have to be moved to
accommodate the extra rad to valve spacing - whereas the Matchmates were
a straight swap.

I realise now I have a really stupid question: do people PTFE the
connections, or use boss white, or just hope? I'm asking about both
the screw thread into the radiator, and the compression-ish fitting
between the other end of that and the valve itself.


For screwing the tails into the rad, I use gas-grade PTFE tape which
is much tougher than the standard stuff and tears less easily.

For good measure, I clean up the threads with a 1/2" BSP tap[1] before
fitting the tail

The compression joints *shouldn't* need sealing - and *don't* wrap PTFE
tape round them - but I always smear a bit of LS-X round the olive for
belt and braces

[1] If you haven't got a 1/2" BSP tap, an old radiator tail with
longitudinal slots cut in the threads is a good substitute
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

On 01/10/2010 16:38, Andy Burns wrote:


Depends what you've got below or near the lockshield, in cases where
there would normally be an elbow, I tend to replace with a tee, and use
one of these

http://www.uk-plumbing.com/bmz_cache/0/066d94da3f8e52c0379384e55ec5c968.image.250x250.jpg


That's fine for draining the pipework, but not so useful for keeping the
pipes full and draining individual rads - which is what I think the OP
wants to do.
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

In article , John
writes
"fred" wrote in message ...
In article , John
writes

Remember that the radiator will be at pressure so you cant prevent it from
****ing out some water by just closing the valves and the air vent.

I did wonder about that but they suggest you release pressure on any
trapped air by opening the bleed vent first and then closing it before
opening the drain screw over a drip tray and fitting a hose

Possible faff, but they are dinky.

A large radiator will need to squirt out quite a bit before its pressure is
released.

How so? Water is incompressible and so cannot retain any pressure.
Pressure can only be retained by any unbled air in the radiator which
can be released via the bleed valve with perhaps a trickle of water.

This is the case when both ends of the rad are turned off as described
in the instructions. Any pressure stored in the system (via the
expansion vessel could then be released by opening the rad valve to link
the system back to the rad.
--
fred
FIVE TV's superbright logo - not the DOG's, it's ********

"fred" wrote in message ...
In article , John
writes
"fred" wrote in message ...
In article , John
writes

Remember that the radiator will be at pressure so you cant prevent it
from
****ing out some water by just closing the valves and the air vent.

I did wonder about that but they suggest you release pressure on any
trapped air by opening the bleed vent first and then closing it before
opening the drain screw over a drip tray and fitting a hose

Possible faff, but they are dinky.

A large radiator will need to squirt out quite a bit before its pressure
is
released.

How so? Water is incompressible and so cannot retain any pressure.
Pressure can only be retained by any unbled air in the radiator which can
be released via the bleed valve with perhaps a trickle of water.

This is the case when both ends of the rad are turned off as described in
the instructions. Any pressure stored in the system (via the expansion
vessel could then be released by opening the rad valve to link the system
back to the rad.
--
fred
FIVE TV's superbright logo - not the DOG's, it's ********



Perhaps the quantity isn't massive - but the pressure makes it seem a lot. I
guess there is some air above the bleed valve - and some elasticity in the
construction of the radiator. I have only just gone"pressurised" and it took
me by surprise.

On 2 Oct, 01:06, fred wrote:
In article , John
writes



"fred" wrote in ...
In article , John
writes

Remember that the radiator will be at pressure so you cant prevent it from
****ing out some water by just closing the valves and the air vent.

I did wonder about that but they suggest you release pressure on any
trapped air by opening the bleed vent first and then closing it before
opening the drain screw over a drip tray and fitting a hose

Possible faff, but they are dinky.

A large radiator will need to squirt out quite a bit before its pressure is
released.

How so? Water is incompressible and so cannot retain any pressure.
Pressure can only be retained by any unbled air in the radiator which
can be released via the bleed valve with perhaps a trickle of water.

This is the case when both ends of the rad are turned off as described
in the instructions. Any pressure stored in the system (via the
expansion vessel could then be released by opening the rad valve to link
the system back to the rad.
--
fred
FIVE TV's superbright logo - not the DOG's, it's ********- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

There is usually a small amount of air/gas in raditors. You can't
bleed it all out.

In article
,
harry writes
On 2 Oct, 01:06, fred wrote:
In article , John
writes

How so? Water is incompressible and so cannot retain any pressure.
Pressure can only be retained by any unbled air in the radiator which
can be released via the bleed valve with perhaps a trickle of water.

This is the case when both ends of the rad are turned off as described
in the instructions. Any pressure stored in the system (via the
expansion vessel could then be released by opening the rad valve to link
the system back to the rad.

There is usually a small amount of air/gas in raditors. You can't
bleed it all out.

I think, "Pressure can only be retained by any unbled air in the
radiator which can be released via the bleed valve with perhaps a
trickle of water." covered that.
--
fred
FIVE TV's superbright logo - not the DOG's, it's ********

"fred" wrote in message ...
In article
, harry
writes
On 2 Oct, 01:06, fred wrote:
In article , John
writes

How so? Water is incompressible and so cannot retain any pressure.
Pressure can only be retained by any unbled air in the radiator which
can be released via the bleed valve with perhaps a trickle of water.

This is the case when both ends of the rad are turned off as described
in the instructions. Any pressure stored in the system (via the
expansion vessel could then be released by opening the rad valve to link
the system back to the rad.

There is usually a small amount of air/gas in raditors. You can't
bleed it all out.

I think, "Pressure can only be retained by any unbled air in the radiator
which can be released via the bleed valve with perhaps a trickle of
water." covered that.
--
fred
FIVE TV's superbright logo - not the DOG's, it's ********


Trickle is more like an aerosol jet.

In article , John
writes
"fred" wrote in message ...
In article
,
harry
writes
On 2 Oct, 01:06, fred wrote:
In article , John
writes

How so? Water is incompressible and so cannot retain any pressure.
Pressure can only be retained by any unbled air in the radiator which
can be released via the bleed valve with perhaps a trickle of water.

This is the case when both ends of the rad are turned off as described
in the instructions. Any pressure stored in the system (via the
expansion vessel could then be released by opening the rad valve to link
the system back to the rad.

There is usually a small amount of air/gas in raditors. You can't
bleed it all out.

I think, "Pressure can only be retained by any unbled air in the radiator
which can be released via the bleed valve with perhaps a trickle of
water." covered that.

Trickle is more like an aerosol jet.

I think you must have paid extra for those full flow bleed valves ;-).
Never more than a hiss, bubble, bubble here, never felt the need to open
the screw enough to have it hosing down the walls.
--
fred
FIVE TV's superbright logo - not the DOG's, it's ********