A quick question, new kitchen (small) extention. Whats the best way of
finishing walls. Browing and finish, dob n dad board or board fixed direct
to walls.

Thnaks

Jb

"John Rumm" wrote in message
o.uk...
On 26/06/2010 14:52, Brew wrote:
A quick question, new kitchen (small) extention. Whats the best way of
finishing walls. Browing and finish, dob n dad board or board fixed
direct
to walls.

Are the walls already insulated?


--
Cheers,

John.

Built to buidling standards. Brick outer wall, insulation in cavity and
Celcon block inner wall.

many thanks

Jb

Brew wrote:
A quick question, new kitchen (small) extention. Whats the best way of
finishing walls. Browing and finish, dob n dad board or board fixed
direct to walls.

Thnaks

Jb

Browning = too laborious and also way too expensive.

Board fixed to walls - how? - if you are thinking of nailing directly into
blocks, don't bother, they won't last 5 years.

D&D is by far the easiest and cheapest, with the added bonus of achieving
the best results and it adds a small amount of insulative properties to the
wall, it's a no-brainer really.

--
Phil L
RSRL Tipster Of The Year 2008

On 26/06/2010 17:03, Phil L wrote:


D&D is by far the easiest and cheapest, with the added bonus of achieving
the best results and it adds a small amount of insulative properties to the
wall, it's a no-brainer really.



Apart from making it nigh-on impossible to get a firm fixing for heavy
wall cabinets, it's great!
--
Cheers,
Roger
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Roger Mills wrote:
On 26/06/2010 17:03, Phil L wrote:


D&D is by far the easiest and cheapest, with the added bonus of
achieving the best results and it adds a small amount of insulative
properties to the wall, it's a no-brainer really.



Apart from making it nigh-on impossible to get a firm fixing for heavy
wall cabinets, it's great!

You shouldn't be using anything smaller than 3 inch screws for cabinets
anyway, and with D&D, two inches of them will still be in the brickwork

--
Phil L
RSRL Tipster Of The Year 2008

Roger Mills wrote:
On 26/06/2010 17:03, Phil L wrote:


D&D is by far the easiest and cheapest, with the added bonus of
achieving the best results and it adds a small amount of insulative
properties to the wall, it's a no-brainer really.



Apart from making it nigh-on impossible to get a firm fixing for heavy
wall cabinets, it's great!

You shouldn't be using anything smaller than 3 inch screws for cabinets
anyway, and with D&D, two inches of them will still be in the brickwork

--
Phil L
RSRL Tipster Of The Year 2008

"Phil L" wrote in message
news:WHrVn.90916$_m6.52262@hurricane...
Roger Mills wrote:
On 26/06/2010 17:03, Phil L wrote:


D&D is by far the easiest and cheapest, with the added bonus of
achieving the best results and it adds a small amount of insulative
properties to the wall, it's a no-brainer really.



Apart from making it nigh-on impossible to get a firm fixing for heavy
wall cabinets, it's great!

You shouldn't be using anything smaller than 3 inch screws for cabinets
anyway, and with D&D, two inches of them will still be in the brickwork

You are joking?
I need 5" screws to get 2" into the actual wall.
1/2" for the board + at least 1" for the gap (and frequently more).

John Rumm wrote:

Built to buidling standards. Brick outer wall, insulation in cavity and
Celcon block inner wall.

In which case I would go with traditional plaster if you are not in a
hurry. Makes for easier fixing of cabinets etc later.

....and less waste offcuts of plasterboard, so me too.

AJH

On Sat, 26 Jun 2010 19:46:54 +0100, "dennis@home"
wrote:



"Phil L" wrote in message
news:WHrVn.90916$_m6.52262@hurricane...
Roger Mills wrote:
On 26/06/2010 17:03, Phil L wrote:


D&D is by far the easiest and cheapest, with the added bonus of
achieving the best results and it adds a small amount of insulative
properties to the wall, it's a no-brainer really.



Apart from making it nigh-on impossible to get a firm fixing for heavy
wall cabinets, it's great!

You shouldn't be using anything smaller than 3 inch screws for cabinets
anyway, and with D&D, two inches of them will still be in the brickwork

You are joking?
I need 5" screws to get 2" into the actual wall.
1/2" for the board + at least 1" for the gap (and frequently more).

No Dennis. Just because it's D&D does not mean you have to sacrifice
half your room volume. A little care and thought can mean 9mm board
goes on with little gap to mention and the board is like solid
plaster.

dennis@home wrote:
"Phil L" wrote in message
news:WHrVn.90916$_m6.52262@hurricane...
Roger Mills wrote:
On 26/06/2010 17:03, Phil L wrote:


D&D is by far the easiest and cheapest, with the added bonus of
achieving the best results and it adds a small amount of insulative
properties to the wall, it's a no-brainer really.



Apart from making it nigh-on impossible to get a firm fixing for
heavy wall cabinets, it's great!

You shouldn't be using anything smaller than 3 inch screws for
cabinets anyway, and with D&D, two inches of them will still be in
the brickwork

You are joking?
I need 5" screws to get 2" into the actual wall.
1/2" for the board + at least 1" for the gap (and frequently more).

Eh?
If there is a 1 inch gap, then it is an exception rather than the norm, but
even so, 1in plus 1/2 for the board leaves 3.5ins into the brickwork using
5in screws, not 2 inch.
You should be using 3.5 inch screws if you want to get 2in into the masonary

--
Phil L
RSRL Tipster Of The Year 2008

"Phil L" wrote in message
news:IhsVn.53856$vB5.20593@hurricane...
dennis@home wrote:
"Phil L" wrote in message
news:WHrVn.90916$_m6.52262@hurricane...
Roger Mills wrote:
On 26/06/2010 17:03, Phil L wrote:


D&D is by far the easiest and cheapest, with the added bonus of
achieving the best results and it adds a small amount of insulative
properties to the wall, it's a no-brainer really.



Apart from making it nigh-on impossible to get a firm fixing for
heavy wall cabinets, it's great!

You shouldn't be using anything smaller than 3 inch screws for
cabinets anyway, and with D&D, two inches of them will still be in
the brickwork

You are joking?
I need 5" screws to get 2" into the actual wall.
1/2" for the board + at least 1" for the gap (and frequently more).

Eh?
If there is a 1 inch gap, then it is an exception rather than the norm,
but even so, 1in plus 1/2 for the board leaves 3.5ins into the brickwork
using 5in screws, not 2 inch.
You should be using 3.5 inch screws if you want to get 2in into the
masonry

Well if it wasn't block you might be right but 2" into block is not enough.

On Jun 26, 8:24*pm, "dennis@home"
wrote:
"Phil L" wrote in message

news:IhsVn.53856$vB5.20593@hurricane...





dennis@home wrote:
"Phil L" wrote in message
news:WHrVn.90916$_m6.52262@hurricane...
Roger Mills wrote:
On 26/06/2010 17:03, Phil L wrote:

D&D is by far the easiest and cheapest, with the added bonus of
achieving the best results and it adds a small amount of insulative
properties to the wall, it's a no-brainer really.

Apart from making it nigh-on impossible to get a firm fixing for
heavy wall cabinets, it's great!

You shouldn't be using anything smaller than 3 inch screws for
cabinets anyway, and with D&D, two inches of them will still be in
the brickwork

You are joking?
I need 5" screws to get 2" into the actual wall.
1/2" for the board + at least 1" for the gap (and frequently more).

Eh?
If there is a 1 inch gap, then it is an exception rather than the norm,
but even so, 1in plus 1/2 for the board leaves 3.5ins into the brickwork
using 5in screws, not 2 inch.
You should be using 3.5 inch screws if you want to get 2in into the
masonry

Well if it wasn't block you might be right but 2" into block is not enough.

What you do is put a line of adhesive where the cabinets are going to
be fixed.
As for the depth of the screw penetration, I have never heard of such
a thing.

What you do with a brick background is go into the firmest part of the
wall a screw depth and half the plug length IIRC. (And hope you are
not going to find an hollow or a wire or pipe.)

IIRC, an engineering principle of screw threads is that 5 revolutions
gives as much grip as the mechanics will allow.

What I presume the poster who advised the three inches meant or
misunderstood is that with a 1" grip of the substrate and 2" of stuff
to be fixed, you need 3".

If you are going through a modesty block 3/4", 3/4" of cabinet, 1/2"
of plasterboard, 1/2" of daub 1/4" of plaster and the length of a
rawlplug you want more than a 3" screw.

Thanks Guys

Now I'm totally confused, before i was just uncertain.. :-)
LOL

Oh well it will have to do after my hols

Thanks to all

Jb




"Phil L" wrote in message
news:1erVn.90204$k15.48629@hurricane...
Roger Mills wrote:
On 26/06/2010 17:03, Phil L wrote:


D&D is by far the easiest and cheapest, with the added bonus of
achieving the best results and it adds a small amount of insulative
properties to the wall, it's a no-brainer really.



Apart from making it nigh-on impossible to get a firm fixing for heavy
wall cabinets, it's great!

You shouldn't be using anything smaller than 3 inch screws for cabinets
anyway, and with D&D, two inches of them will still be in the brickwork

--
Phil L
RSRL Tipster Of The Year 2008

On 26/06/2010 18:59, Phil L wrote:
Roger Mills wrote:
On 26/06/2010 17:03, Phil L wrote:


D&D is by far the easiest and cheapest, with the added bonus of
achieving the best results and it adds a small amount of insulative
properties to the wall, it's a no-brainer really.



Apart from making it nigh-on impossible to get a firm fixing for heavy
wall cabinets, it's great!

You shouldn't be using anything smaller than 3 inch screws for cabinets
anyway, and with D&D, two inches of them will still be in the brickwork


But that's only half the story! Unless you manage to go through a dab,
you'll be bending the plasterboard into the gap and the fixing won't be
really firm. Worse still, that part of the screw going through thin air
will experience a bending load - and screws are only designed for
tension and shear.

As someone else has said, if you know exactly where the cabinet fixings
need to be, and if you're fixing your own plasterboard, you can - in
theory - make sure that you have dabs in the right place. However,
theory is easier than practice!
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
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