I've completely re-wired a house before (just before part P came in),
but that had solid (brick) walls, and floorboards.

I'm now tackling a 1973 terrace. All internal walls upstairs are stud
partition walls. Some floors are chipboard.

These are frighteningly noddy questions, but...

1. How do I (efficiently and securely) install new sockets into
existing partition walls?

2. How do I take up chipboard floors (one of them running under a
partition wall!) to route cables?

3. How do I work with building control to get whatever I do
certified / approved?

They'll be other building work carried out by professionals around the
same time, so building inspectors will be visiting anyway.

Cheers,
David.

P.S. I've just ordered the 17th edition on-site guide (I worked under
15th edition last time). I'm (not) looking forward to the new colours
and new RCD/RCBO requirements.

On Wed, 07 Apr 2010 08:17:23 -0700, Owain wrote:
1. Use dry-lining boxes eg http://www.screwfix.com/prods/44827/ 2.
Position the sockets over the studs, cut away sufficient stud to allow
the box to fit flush
3. Insert noggins as required behind the boxes. It may be easier to put
2 screws discreetly into the back of the noggin from the room next door,
then screw on the box from the front.

Can you get "remodel" boxes your side of the Pond? The ones here can just
be placed in a suitable-sized hole cut into the wall, then as the screws
are tightened little tabs flip out and grip the wall from the reverse
side.

Of course if you have a suitable stud / noggin / whatever that you can
secure the box to as well, that helps - but you don't *have* to. It
potentially saves a lot of faffing about...

cheers

Jules

Owain wrote:
On 7 Apr, 15:16, 2Bdecided wrote:
1. How do I (efficiently and securely) install new sockets into
existing partition walls?

1. Use dry-lining boxes eg http://www.screwfix.com/prods/44827/
2. Position the sockets over the studs, cut away sufficient stud to
allow the box to fit flush
3. Insert noggins as required behind the boxes. It may be easier to
put 2 screws discreetly into the back of the noggin from the room next
door, then screw on the box from the front.

Just for the OP's clarification - these are three alternative methods,
not a sequence of instructions (got *me* a bit confused and I've done
this job mnay times!)

David

"Jules Richardson" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 07 Apr 2010 08:17:23 -0700, Owain wrote:
1. Use dry-lining boxes eg http://www.screwfix.com/prods/44827/ 2.
Position the sockets over the studs, cut away sufficient stud to allow
the box to fit flush
3. Insert noggins as required behind the boxes. It may be easier to put
2 screws discreetly into the back of the noggin from the room next door,
then screw on the box from the front.

Can you get "remodel" boxes your side of the Pond? The ones here can just
be placed in a suitable-sized hole cut into the wall, then as the screws
are tightened little tabs flip out and grip the wall from the reverse
side.

Of course if you have a suitable stud / noggin / whatever that you can
secure the box to as well, that helps - but you don't *have* to. It
potentially saves a lot of faffing about...

cheers

Jules

Like the dry lining boxes Owain gave a link to:-)

Adam

Jules Richardson wrote:
On Wed, 07 Apr 2010 08:17:23 -0700, Owain wrote:
1. Use dry-lining boxes eg http://www.screwfix.com/prods/44827/ 2.
Position the sockets over the studs, cut away sufficient stud to allow
the box to fit flush
3. Insert noggins as required behind the boxes. It may be easier to put
2 screws discreetly into the back of the noggin from the room next
door, then screw on the box from the front.

Can you get "remodel" boxes your side of the Pond? The ones here can
just be placed in a suitable-sized hole cut into the wall, then as the
screws are tightened little tabs flip out and grip the wall from the
reverse side.

They invariably go loose & crumbly if used regularly.

On Wed, 07 Apr 2010 19:15:30 +0100, ARWadsworth wrote:

"Jules Richardson" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 07 Apr 2010 08:17:23 -0700, Owain wrote:
1. Use dry-lining boxes eg http://www.screwfix.com/prods/44827/ 2.
Position the sockets over the studs, cut away sufficient stud to allow
the box to fit flush
3. Insert noggins as required behind the boxes. It may be easier to
put 2 screws discreetly into the back of the noggin from the room next
door, then screw on the box from the front.

Can you get "remodel" boxes your side of the Pond? The ones here can
just be placed in a suitable-sized hole cut into the wall, then as the
screws are tightened little tabs flip out and grip the wall from the
reverse side.

Of course if you have a suitable stud / noggin / whatever that you can
secure the box to as well, that helps - but you don't *have* to. It
potentially saves a lot of faffing about...

cheers

Jules

Like the dry lining boxes Owain gave a link to:-)

Yeah, I fell into the same trap as Lobster and read the list as a bunch
fo suggested steps rather than alternate options :-) (I looked at the
link but couldn't see from the image how the box shown fitted and then
clamped)

cheers

Jules

On Wed, 07 Apr 2010 16:52:33 +0000, Jules Richardson wrote:

1. Use dry-lining boxes eg http://www.screwfix.com/prods/44827/ 2.
Position the sockets over the studs, cut away sufficient stud to allow
the box to fit flush
3. Insert noggins as required behind the boxes. It may be easier to put
2 screws discreetly into the back of the noggin from the room next
door, then screw on the box from the front.

Can you get "remodel" boxes your side of the Pond? The ones here can
just be placed in a suitable-sized hole cut into the wall, then as the
screws are tightened little tabs flip out and grip the wall from the
reverse side

That's a dry-lining box...
--
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK:
http://www.mirrorservice.org

On 7 Apr, 18:10, Lobster wrote:
Owain wrote:
On 7 Apr, 15:16, 2Bdecided wrote:
1. How do I (efficiently and securely) install new sockets into
existing partition walls?

1. Use dry-lining boxes eghttp://www.screwfix.com/prods/44827/
2. Position the sockets over the studs, cut away sufficient stud to
allow the box to fit flush
3. Insert noggins as required behind the boxes. It may be easier to
put 2 screws discreetly into the back of the noggin from the room next
door, then screw on the box from the front.

Just for the OP's clarification - these are three alternative methods,
not a sequence of instructions (got *me* a bit confused and I've done
this job mnay times!)

Thank you - that saved me from asking a very silly question!

I fear 1 will just fall out (kids yanking cables), so will check how
much squirty foam would cost to make it stronger.

If I try the noggin option, do you think no-nails (to adjacent studs
as well as opposite wall) would do instead of screws?

Where do people get the really long screws to fix a socket to a (fixed
well back) back-box? Sockets never come with ones that length.

Cheers,
David.

On 7 Apr, 16:17, Owain wrote:
On 7 Apr, 15:16, 2Bdecided wrote:

1. How do I (efficiently and securely) install new sockets into
existing partition walls?

Thanks for your help Owain.

Is there any trick to getting cables through floorboards under
partition walls? i.e. any way other than making one heck of a mess
cutting enough plasterboard away to let me drill them?

2. How do I take up chipboard floors (one of them running under a
partition wall!) to route cables?

You use a Trend Routabout to cut holes in the floors and fish the
cables throughhttp://www.powertoolsuk.co.uk/webcat/details.asp?ProductCode=RBT3&ID=...

I don't have a router already, so this will work out expensive for a
couple of floors. Would the router also be useful for putting channels
down walls? I have a lot of that to do too.

Cheers,
David.

On 08/04/2010 16:01 2Bdecided wrote:

Where do people get the really long screws to fix a socket to a (fixed
well back) back-box?

Screwfix? Quote Nos: 64633, 42091 , 94211 , 65269 for packs of 50(!).

Smaller packs, though probably costing the same, from Focus.

--
F

The message

from 2Bdecided contains these words:



Where do people get the really long screws to fix a socket to a (fixed
well back) back-box? Sockets never come with ones that length.

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/64633/...5mm-Pack-Of-50

if nowhere else :-)