Hi,

I'm after some conventional wisdom on building timber framed partition
walls. The one I'm going to build will be L-shaped in the corner of a
bedroom to take a sink and hide all the pipework behind it. Size would be
around 0.5m on the long wall and 0.3m on the short wall with height of 2.45m

My questions a

1) What timber to use? Planed untreated?
2) What size should the uprights be? 2" x2"?
3) What size should the cross-pieces (noggins?) be? 2" x 1.5"?
4) What should the centres be for the vertical and horizontal pieces?

Anything else I should know before starting?

Thanks
Charles

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Charles Gregory wrote:

Hi,

I'm after some conventional wisdom on building timber framed partition
walls. The one I'm going to build will be L-shaped in the corner of a
bedroom to take a sink and hide all the pipework behind it. Size
would be around 0.5m on the long wall and 0.3m on the short wall with
height of 2.45m

My questions a

1) What timber to use? Planed untreated?
2) What size should the uprights be? 2" x2"?
3) What size should the cross-pieces (noggins?) be? 2" x 1.5"?
4) What should the centres be for the vertical and horizontal pieces?

Anything else I should know before starting?

Thanks
Charles

I would use 75x50 sawn (not planed) timber for the framing and noggins -
with the 75 dimension defining the thickness of the walls. You can then hide
most of the pipework *inside* the walls. Use Hep2o for all hidden pipework,
changing to copper for anything which is exposed. You can then feed the
Hep2o through holes drilled in the noggins, floor plates or ceiling plates,
as appropriate.

I would use a total of 5 uprights, with 3 of them being at the intersection
of the two sections - 2 back to back and the other one at right angles (in
plan view). You will then have a face on each wall in the corner for nailing
on your plasterboard. I would use 2 noggins in each section (plus floor and
ceiling plates, of course), approx 1/3 and 2/3 of the way up the walls - but
make sure that there's something solid to screw the sink hangers to.
--
Cheers,
Set Square
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I'm after some conventional wisdom on building timber framed partition
walls.
My questions a
1) What timber to use? Planed untreated?
2) What size should the uprights be? 2" x2"?
3) What size should the cross-pieces (noggins?) be? 2" x 1.5"?
4) What should the centres be for the vertical and horizontal pieces?
Anything else I should know before starting?

I`ve wondered about this myself - possibly one for the FAQ ?

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Please add "[newsgroup]" in the subject of any personal replies via email
--- My new email address has "ngspamtrap" & @btinternet.com in it ;-) ---

For such a small distance 1.5 x 2.5 will be plenty big enough. You dont
need any intermediate uprights, but adding one in the 50cm wide wall
will make everything more solid.

Wood finish: anything, makes no difference.
Noggins: anything, I'd just use a bit more 1.5x2.5

(You can even do a job like this with scrap wood and oddments)

Note that anything weighty that goes on the wall will need a noggin in
the wall to support it, and you cant add them later, so plan. Dont
forget to run a wire if you want a wall light.

Final note: always use 12mm PB. Its just =A31 more than 9.5 and much
stronger and less prone to getting holed later.

NT

Mike wrote:

400mms is ok for 12.5mm plasterboard but you must use 300mm centres if you
use 9.5mm plasterboard

I was always told that you can do 400 for 9mm but get away with 600mm
with 12.5mm....

Still not much of an issue since 12.5mm is feeble enough as it is.

--
Cheers,

John.

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| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
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| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
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"John Rumm" wrote in message
...
Mike wrote:

400mms is ok for 12.5mm plasterboard but you must use 300mm centres if
you
use 9.5mm plasterboard

I was always told that you can do 400 for 9mm but get away with 600mm
with 12.5mm....

Yeah - so was I. Then a friend met a BCO with other opinions and although a
question here gave varied replies, there was no definitive source. Since
then me and him have played safe and used more wood.

Mike wrote:

I was always told that you can do 400 for 9mm but get away with 600mm
with 12.5mm....


Yeah - so was I. Then a friend met a BCO with other opinions and although a
question here gave varied replies, there was no definitive source. Since
then me and him have played safe and used more wood.

Given that plasterboard is cheap and wood pricey, hardly seems worth
using 9mm in the circumstances then.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Lobster wrote:


To add to what others have already said - Building Control would tell
you that you need to include sound insulation inside the partition
(eg slabs of Rockwool)

David


What the hell for? He's making an alcove in the bedroom, not a separate
room!
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Cheers,
Set Square
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Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is invalid.

"Set Square" wrote in message
...
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Lobster wrote:


To add to what others have already said - Building Control would tell
you that you need to include sound insulation inside the partition
(eg slabs of Rockwool)


What the hell for? He's making an alcove in the bedroom, not a separate
room!


re-reads original post

Erm, yes, fair enough! Don't think even *my* BCO would push for that. On
second thoughts...

David