The dick head that I leant 2 boat rods to left them fully assembled with sea
water on them and as a consequence where the shaft joins the rod just above
where the real fits is well and truly corroded solid. There is an aluminium
sleeve in the handle bit into which slides the rod.
I have tried liberal application of releasing fluid and WD40 to no avail.
I am going to try drilling a hole on the butt end and filling it with
paraffin and seeing if that will seep through and ease the joint.
Now short of leaving them fully assembled for ever more I was wondering what
I could do. I know that caustic soda dissolves aluminium but that seems a
bit harsh.
Is there any readily available acid that I can pour inside the rod to see if
I can try and release the corroded joint from the inside.
If it completly knackers the aluminium sleeve I could insert another one,
assuming I can get the right size sleeve.

Kevin

Zen83237
wibbled on Saturday 16 January 2010 17:07

The dick head that I leant 2 boat rods to left them fully assembled with
sea water on them and as a consequence where the shaft joins the rod just
above where the real fits is well and truly corroded solid. There is an
aluminium sleeve in the handle bit into which slides the rod.
I have tried liberal application of releasing fluid and WD40 to no avail.
I am going to try drilling a hole on the butt end and filling it with
paraffin and seeing if that will seep through and ease the joint.
Now short of leaving them fully assembled for ever more I was wondering
what I could do. I know that caustic soda dissolves aluminium but that
seems a bit harsh.
Is there any readily available acid that I can pour inside the rod to see
if I can try and release the corroded joint from the inside.
If it completly knackers the aluminium sleeve I could insert another one,
assuming I can get the right size sleeve.

Kevin

If it were me, (see below) I'd start with some fairly diluted HCl - it will
produce generally soluable salts and it's easy to buy (Spirits of Salts or
Brick Acid - try a proper hardware shop for 1l bottles and a builders'
merchant for larger quantities).

WARNING - that comes at 20-30% strength (30ish% is the max for HCl as it's
natively a gas). That will take your eyes out, burn your skin and the fumes
are unpleasant. Despite those dire warnings, it's not actually poisonous.

Dilute a sample of it down to about 5% outside and it's fairly safe to
handle (gloves still recommended, but it won't rip your skin off at that
strength, or fume).

At 5% it should be quite effective but not too agressive, but expect it to
work fairly fast.

I'm honestly not sure if that is the best acid for ali - it will quite
likely discolour it. But for shifting the corrosion it should have an
effect.

The problem I see is trying to get it to get down where two surfaces have
corroded togther. The sea water got there because there wasn't any
corrosion. Now there is, so it's going to be a little harder for the acid to
work its way in.

Is there any possibility of the application of heat to teh joint instead to
try to crack it apart? Or is the part next to fibreglass/wood or plastic
components?

Wait around - there are some folk fairly clued up on metal here...


--
Tim Watts

Managers, politicians and environmentalists: Nature's carbon buffer.

On 16 Jan, 17:07, "Zen83237" wrote:
The dick head that I leant 2 boat rods to left them fully assembled with sea
water on them and as a consequence where the shaft joins the rod just above
where the real fits is well and truly corroded solid.

Go to rec.cycling and tell them it's a very long and thin seat post.

On Sat, 16 Jan 2010 17:07:24 -0000, "Zen83237"
wrote:

The dick head that I leant 2 boat rods to left them fully assembled with sea
water on them and as a consequence where the shaft joins the rod just above
where the real fits is well and truly corroded solid.

Buy new rods and send "dick head" the bill.

--
Frank Erskine

"Frank Erskine" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 16 Jan 2010 17:07:24 -0000, "Zen83237"
wrote:

The dick head that I leant 2 boat rods to left them fully assembled with
sea
water on them and as a consequence where the shaft joins the rod just
above
where the real fits is well and truly corroded solid.

Buy new rods and send "dick head" the bill.

--
Frank Erskine

The ex wife's dickhead brother. Somehow I don't think he will payup.

On Sat, 16 Jan 2010 19:16:29 -0000, "Zen83237"
wrote:


"Frank Erskine" wrote in message
.. .
On Sat, 16 Jan 2010 17:07:24 -0000, "Zen83237"
wrote:

The dick head that I leant 2 boat rods to left them fully assembled with
sea
water on them and as a consequence where the shaft joins the rod just
above
where the real fits is well and truly corroded solid.

Buy new rods and send "dick head" the bill.

--
Frank Erskine

The ex wife's dickhead brother. Somehow I don't think he will payup.


Would some form of gentle heat on the butt end ( which I presume is
the female part) cause it to expand and break the hold ? or maybe two
folk ,one holding each section ,and twisting in opposite directions
...either of these are ploys used to seperate fly rod sections which
have become jammed ,not by corrosion,but by over enthusiastic joining
by the user.

"Usenet Nutter" wrote in message
news
On Sat, 16 Jan 2010 19:16:29 -0000, "Zen83237"
wrote:


"Frank Erskine" wrote in message
. ..
On Sat, 16 Jan 2010 17:07:24 -0000, "Zen83237"
wrote:

The dick head that I leant 2 boat rods to left them fully assembled with
sea
water on them and as a consequence where the shaft joins the rod just
above
where the real fits is well and truly corroded solid.

Buy new rods and send "dick head" the bill.

--
Frank Erskine

The ex wife's dickhead brother. Somehow I don't think he will payup.


Would some form of gentle heat on the butt end ( which I presume is
the female part) cause it to expand and break the hold ? or maybe two
folk ,one holding each section ,and twisting in opposite directions
..either of these are ploys used to seperate fly rod sections which
have become jammed ,not by corrosion,but by over enthusiastic joining
by the user.

I have a similar problem when releasing overtightened filters on a camera
lens. The more you grip it tighter the more you distort it and the more
difficult it is to unscrew but you can buy a handy tool that grips the fiter
around the full 360 degrees. I rather suspect that is what is going on here
if I try to grip it in a vice.
Being plastic with an aluminium sleeve I can only apply so much heat but I
can try immersing it in boiling water.

On Sun, 17 Jan 2010 08:19:19 -0000, "Zen83237"
wrote:


"Usenet Nutter" wrote in message
news
On Sat, 16 Jan 2010 19:16:29 -0000, "Zen83237"
wrote:


"Frank Erskine" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 16 Jan 2010 17:07:24 -0000, "Zen83237"
wrote:

The dick head that I leant 2 boat rods to left them fully assembled with
sea
water on them and as a consequence where the shaft joins the rod just
above
where the real fits is well and truly corroded solid.

Buy new rods and send "dick head" the bill.

--
Frank Erskine

The ex wife's dickhead brother. Somehow I don't think he will payup.


Would some form of gentle heat on the butt end ( which I presume is
the female part) cause it to expand and break the hold ? or maybe two
folk ,one holding each section ,and twisting in opposite directions
..either of these are ploys used to seperate fly rod sections which
have become jammed ,not by corrosion,but by over enthusiastic joining
by the user.

I have a similar problem when releasing overtightened filters on a camera
lens. The more you grip it tighter the more you distort it and the more
difficult it is to unscrew but you can buy a handy tool that grips the fiter
around the full 360 degrees. I rather suspect that is what is going on here
if I try to grip it in a vice.
Being plastic with an aluminium sleeve I can only apply so much heat but I
can try immersing it in boiling water.


I should have said I wasn't meaning heat with a blowtorch..lol..but
hot water as you suggest ..like pouring water out of a kettle or jug
over it .