Today I measured my incoming mains water pressure to be a little over 10
bar. About 145 PSI. About 100 metres "head"

Quite honestly I was surprised because instinctively I would have expected
it to be somewhat lower. What is normal though? Is 10 bar unusual?

It's never especially bothered me because I have an IMI pressure regulator
taking the in-house pressure down to about 3 bar....however the regulator
started playing up recently causing the in house static pressure to increase
a lot which could be quite alarming when filling a kettle.

The regulator is now fixed....and I am just curious.

Vortex5 wrote:
Today I measured my incoming mains water pressure to be a little over 10
bar. About 145 PSI. About 100 metres "head"

Quite honestly I was surprised because instinctively I would have
expected it to be somewhat lower. What is normal though? Is 10 bar
unusual?

It's never especially bothered me because I have an IMI pressure
regulator taking the in-house pressure down to about 3 bar....however
the regulator started playing up recently causing the in house static
pressure to increase a lot which could be quite alarming when filling a
kettle.

The regulator is now fixed....and I am just curious.

That's high.

Normal is around 3-4 bar, but I've seen as high as 7. I've never seen 10.

--
Ron

Vortex5 wrote:
Today I measured my incoming mains water pressure to be a little over 10
bar. About 145 PSI. About 100 metres "head"

Quite honestly I was surprised because instinctively I would have
expected it to be somewhat lower. What is normal though? Is 10 bar unusual?

It's never especially bothered me because I have an IMI pressure
regulator taking the in-house pressure down to about 3 bar....however
the regulator started playing up recently causing the in house static
pressure to increase a lot which could be quite alarming when filling a
kettle.

The regulator is now fixed....and I am just curious.
I'd expect 2-4 bar.

Bob

Ron Lowe
wibbled on Sunday 06 December 2009 19:46

Vortex5 wrote:
Today I measured my incoming mains water pressure to be a little over 10
bar. About 145 PSI. About 100 metres "head"

Quite honestly I was surprised because instinctively I would have
expected it to be somewhat lower. What is normal though? Is 10 bar
unusual?

It's never especially bothered me because I have an IMI pressure
regulator taking the in-house pressure down to about 3 bar....however
the regulator started playing up recently causing the in house static
pressure to increase a lot which could be quite alarming when filling a
kettle.

The regulator is now fixed....and I am just curious.

That's high.

Normal is around 3-4 bar, but I've seen as high as 7. I've never seen
10.


Yes. 4+/- bar is quite common. Mine is 7.5bar, limited to 5 bar by
regulator. 7.5 bar is pretty crazy - couldn't imagine what 10 would be like.

Without a regulator, that would be right at the limit for a lot of
equipment.

--
Tim Watts

This space intentionally left blank...

Vortex5 wrote:
Today I measured my incoming mains water pressure to be a little over 10
bar. About 145 PSI. About 100 metres "head"

Quite honestly I was surprised because instinctively I would have
expected it to be somewhat lower. What is normal though? Is 10 bar
unusual?

Good grief, that's at the limit of my air compressor. Your plumbing must
be made of extra-thick steel pipe.... )

"Tim W" wrote in message
...
Ron Lowe
wibbled on Sunday 06 December 2009 19:46

Vortex5 wrote:
Today I measured my incoming mains water pressure to be a little over 10
bar. About 145 PSI. About 100 metres "head"

Quite honestly I was surprised because instinctively I would have
expected it to be somewhat lower. What is normal though? Is 10 bar
unusual?

It's never especially bothered me because I have an IMI pressure
regulator taking the in-house pressure down to about 3 bar....however
the regulator started playing up recently causing the in house static
pressure to increase a lot which could be quite alarming when filling a
kettle.

The regulator is now fixed....and I am just curious.

That's high.

Normal is around 3-4 bar, but I've seen as high as 7. I've never seen
10.


Yes. 4+/- bar is quite common. Mine is 7.5bar, limited to 5 bar by
regulator. 7.5 bar is pretty crazy - couldn't imagine what 10 would be
like.

Without a regulator, that would be right at the limit for a lot of
equipment.

--
Tim Watts

This space intentionally left blank...


Some years ago I recall measuring the pressure at about 8 bar, but have lost
the pressure gauge.

This measurement was taken with a brand new "monument tools" gauge I
purchased recently.

I originally installed the regulator after fitting a segment of Hep2O
internally and was uncomfortable about such high pressures with plastic
(incidentally Hep2O is rated to at least 12 Bar safe pressure at room temp
so I was being paranoid).

I'm going to borrow another pressure gauge just to be sure I don't have
dodgy equipment! Will also call the waterco to see what they have to say.

Vortex5 wrote:
"Tim W" wrote in message
...
Ron Lowe
wibbled on Sunday 06 December 2009 19:46

Vortex5 wrote:
Today I measured my incoming mains water pressure to be a little
over 10 bar. About 145 PSI. About 100 metres "head"

Quite honestly I was surprised because instinctively I would have
expected it to be somewhat lower. What is normal though? Is 10
bar unusual?

It's never especially bothered me because I have an IMI pressure
regulator taking the in-house pressure down to about 3
bar....however the regulator started playing up recently causing
the in house static pressure to increase a lot which could be
quite alarming when filling a kettle.

The regulator is now fixed....and I am just curious.

That's high.

Normal is around 3-4 bar, but I've seen as high as 7. I've never
seen 10.


Yes. 4+/- bar is quite common. Mine is 7.5bar, limited to 5 bar by
regulator. 7.5 bar is pretty crazy - couldn't imagine what 10 would
be like.

Without a regulator, that would be right at the limit for a lot of
equipment.

--
Tim Watts

This space intentionally left blank...


Some years ago I recall measuring the pressure at about 8 bar, but
have lost the pressure gauge.

This measurement was taken with a brand new "monument tools" gauge I
purchased recently.

I originally installed the regulator after fitting a segment of Hep2O
internally and was uncomfortable about such high pressures with
plastic (incidentally Hep2O is rated to at least 12 Bar safe pressure
at room temp so I was being paranoid).

I'm going to borrow another pressure gauge just to be sure I don't
have dodgy equipment! Will also call the waterco to see what they
have to say.

They'll tell you to turn the pressure down by partially closing the stoptap,
which is what you should have done before buying a regulator.

--
Phil L
RSRL Tipster Of The Year 2008

My guess is "3-ish"

I got a bit concerned about some work I was doing, 'phoned our water
provider and asked. We'll check they said.
I awaited their call.
Meanwhile I asked No 1 son, Civil Engineer in water elsewhere in UK
answered,
"Don't be daft, most are about 3bar + or -. "
Then our Co called back... The Chief Engineer of the water Co.
where I live called back. He replied it's about 3.5-4 when it leaves
our header where you live, so based on your postcode, 3 bar would be a
good number!

Ho Hum
EP

I'm going to borrow another pressure gauge just to be sure I don't
have dodgy equipment! Will also call the waterco to see what they
have to say.

They'll tell you to turn the pressure down by partially closing the
stoptap, which is what you should have done before buying a regulator.

--
Phil L
RSRL Tipster Of The Year 2008


Why on earth would they say that? It won't make any difference to the
static pressure.

.....or is there a pressure regulator at the exterior stop tap tap? (I find
that hard to believe)

Phil L formulated the question :
They'll tell you to turn the pressure down by partially closing the stoptap,
which is what you should have done before buying a regulator.

Partially closing the stop tap, will not affect the pressure, except
when there is flow. The static pressure will remain the same as before.

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

Vortex5 wrote:

Why on earth would they say that? It won't make any difference to the
static pressure.


So even when the tap's just trickling, the water's at 10 bar?

what if it's turned down so low that it's just a slow drip when fully open,
is it still at 10 bar then?


....or is there a pressure regulator at the exterior stop tap tap? (I
find that hard to believe)

--
Phil L
RSRL Tipster Of The Year 2008

Just another thought:
Turning the supply valve or tap down isn't really a solution if the
pressure is as high as you suggest.
Clamping down a valve may reduce the flow but it won't change the
pressure. When the flow stabilises, the pressure will be the same.
It's a bit like volts and amps. "Volts is pressure, Amps is flow"

Please no flames...... the OT has a pressure (volts) problem not a
flow (amps) problem so squeezing the flow won't help.

I remain curious about the pressure/head being reported in the
original post. I suspect that most providers in UK don't supply water
much above 3, 4 or 5 bar.

EP

"Phil L" wrote in message
m...
Vortex5 wrote:

Why on earth would they say that? It won't make any difference to the
static pressure.


So even when the tap's just trickling, the water's at 10 bar?

what if it's turned down so low that it's just a slow drip when fully
open, is it still at 10 bar then?


When the internal tap is off, yes.

Vortex5 wrote:
"Phil L" wrote in message
m...
Vortex5 wrote:

Why on earth would they say that? It won't make any difference to
the static pressure.


So even when the tap's just trickling, the water's at 10 bar?

what if it's turned down so low that it's just a slow drip when fully
open, is it still at 10 bar then?


When the internal tap is off, yes.

Yes but it wouldn't stay at that pressure for more than a second or two when
using a tap, so filling a kettle, as you mentioned in your OP, wouldn't be
'alarming'

--
Phil L
RSRL Tipster Of The Year 2008

wrote in message
...
Just another thought:
Turning the supply valve or tap down isn't really a solution if the
pressure is as high as you suggest.
Clamping down a valve may reduce the flow but it won't change the
pressure. When the flow stabilises, the pressure will be the same.
It's a bit like volts and amps. "Volts is pressure, Amps is flow"

Please no flames...... the OT has a pressure (volts) problem not a
flow (amps) problem so squeezing the flow won't help.

I remain curious about the pressure/head being reported in the
original post. I suspect that most providers in UK don't supply water
much above 3, 4 or 5 bar.

EP

What really confuses me is that there are plenty of houses around me on
higher land, none are more than about 20 metres ( - 2 bars) higher.

I could understand if pressure was (say) 5 bar, but cannot understand why I
see 10. hence the original post.

As I said previously first stop is to double-check the instrument. I'm
wondering if I can bodge up a connection to do this pneumatically at the
local garage.

On Dec 6, 10:17*pm, "
wrote:
Please no flames...... the OT has a pressure (volts) problem not a
flow (amps) problem so squeezing the flow won't help.

Correct.

I remain curious about the pressure/head being reported in the
original post. *I suspect that most providers in UK don't supply
water much above 3, 4 or 5 bar.

That's the typical range.

Water co's do play about with pressure, if works are undertaken they
drop it down noticeably, then ramp it back up once complete. The
problem with 10 bar is water hammer (flexible w/machine hoses) is
going to get brutal on the pipework.

Phil L
wibbled on Sunday 06 December 2009 21:53


They'll tell you to turn the pressure down by partially closing the
stoptap, which is what you should have done before buying a regulator.


Pardon?

--
Tim Watts

This space intentionally left blank...

Phil L
wibbled on Sunday 06 December 2009 22:27

Vortex5 wrote:
"Phil L" wrote in message
m...
Vortex5 wrote:

Why on earth would they say that? It won't make any difference to
the static pressure.


So even when the tap's just trickling, the water's at 10 bar?

what if it's turned down so low that it's just a slow drip when fully
open, is it still at 10 bar then?


When the internal tap is off, yes.

Yes but it wouldn't stay at that pressure for more than a second or two
when using a tap, so filling a kettle, as you mentioned in your OP,
wouldn't be 'alarming'


I beg to differ...

That's not a reliable method of regulating dynamic pressure, which will now
be all over the place depending on demand.

It also doesn't help any equipment that doesn't like such high pressures as
they will be seeing the static pressure regularly. It would also be a
potential disaster if the OP had mains pressure DHW and plastic.

Looking at an offcut of JG Speedfit pipe, I see the pressure ratings a

12bar at 20C
4 bar at 82C
3 bar at 92C

The figure for 60C isn't given but I can't see JG pipe enjoying 10bar at
much over 40C if that.

IME, certain garden hoses (hello Screwfix) fail early at 7.5bar, so for
anyone with 10bar static pressure, I would rate it as a *very good* idea to
include a pressure regulator next to the stopcock. I found 7.5 bar a big
enough pain to include a regulator in my system. No real disadvantages and a
decent device does not reduce the flow (I tested this specifically). CAme in
very handy when I wanted to install a water heater that required 6bar (the
included pressure relief valve is set to 6bar).

Cheers

Tim

--
Tim Watts

This space intentionally left blank...

Phil L wrote :
Vortex5 wrote:

Why on earth would they say that? It won't make any difference to the
static pressure.


So even when the tap's just trickling, the water's at 10 bar?

what if it's turned down so low that it's just a slow drip when fully open,
is it still at 10 bar then?

Note the mention of the words 'static pressure' by Vortex5. The word
static means in this case, no water flowing.

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

explained :
Clamping down a valve may reduce the flow but it won't change the
pressure. When the flow stabilises, the pressure will be the same.
It's a bit like volts and amps. "Volts is pressure, Amps is flow"

Please no flames...... the OT has a pressure (volts) problem not a
flow (amps) problem so squeezing the flow won't help.

The word you are looking for is 'resistance' in the electrical sense.

A restriction to the flow of water could also be called resistance to
flow.

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

Tim W wrote:
Phil L
wibbled on Sunday 06 December 2009 21:53


They'll tell you to turn the pressure down by partially closing the
stoptap, which is what you should have done before buying a
regulator.


Pardon?

They'll tell you to turn the pressure down by partially closing the stoptap,
which is what you should have done before buying a regulator.

HTH

--
Phil L
RSRL Tipster Of The Year 2008

Phil L
wibbled on Sunday 06 December 2009 22:55

Tim W wrote:
Phil L
wibbled on Sunday 06 December 2009 21:53


They'll tell you to turn the pressure down by partially closing the
stoptap, which is what you should have done before buying a
regulator.


Pardon?

They'll tell you to turn the pressure down by partially closing the
stoptap, which is what you should have done before buying a regulator.

I don;t think they will - see my other reply...

--
Tim Watts

This space intentionally left blank...

Phil L wrote:

Vortex5 wrote:
"Tim W" wrote in message
...
Ron Lowe
wibbled on Sunday 06 December 2009 19:46

Vortex5 wrote:
Today I measured my incoming mains water pressure to be a little
over 10 bar. About 145 PSI. About 100 metres "head"

Quite honestly I was surprised because instinctively I would have
expected it to be somewhat lower. What is normal though? Is 10
bar unusual?

It's never especially bothered me because I have an IMI pressure
regulator taking the in-house pressure down to about 3
bar....however the regulator started playing up recently causing
the in house static pressure to increase a lot which could be
quite alarming when filling a kettle.

The regulator is now fixed....and I am just curious.

That's high.

Normal is around 3-4 bar, but I've seen as high as 7. I've never
seen 10.


Yes. 4+/- bar is quite common. Mine is 7.5bar, limited to 5 bar by
regulator. 7.5 bar is pretty crazy - couldn't imagine what 10 would
be like.

Without a regulator, that would be right at the limit for a lot of
equipment.

--
Tim Watts

This space intentionally left blank...


Some years ago I recall measuring the pressure at about 8 bar, but
have lost the pressure gauge.

This measurement was taken with a brand new "monument tools" gauge I
purchased recently.

I originally installed the regulator after fitting a segment of Hep2O
internally and was uncomfortable about such high pressures with
plastic (incidentally Hep2O is rated to at least 12 Bar safe pressure
at room temp so I was being paranoid).

I'm going to borrow another pressure gauge just to be sure I don't
have dodgy equipment! Will also call the waterco to see what they
have to say.

They'll tell you to turn the pressure down by partially closing the
stoptap, which is what you should have done before buying a regulator.


so you went to the same school of plumbing as TMH?
\0

"Phil L" wrote in message
m...

They'll tell you to turn the pressure down by partially closing the
stoptap, which is what you should have done before buying a regulator.

The static presure will burst equiment not rated to 10 bar. You NEED a PRV.

Doctor Drivel
wibbled on Monday 07 December 2009 00:29


"Phil L" wrote in message
m...

They'll tell you to turn the pressure down by partially closing the
stoptap, which is what you should have done before buying a regulator.

The static presure will burst equiment not rated to 10 bar. You NEED a
PRV.

Sometimes the man speaks sense - and this is one such occasion



--
Tim Watts

This space intentionally left blank...

"Tim W" wrote in message
...
Doctor Drivel
wibbled on Monday 07 December 2009 00:29


"Phil L" wrote in message
m...

They'll tell you to turn the pressure down by partially closing the
stoptap, which is what you should have done before buying a regulator.

The static presure will burst equiment not rated to 10 bar. You NEED a
PRV.

Sometimes the man speaks sense - and this is one such occasion

You are an idiot!

In message , Doctor Drivel
writes

"Tim W" wrote in message
...
Doctor Drivel
wibbled on Monday 07 December 2009 00:29


"Phil L" wrote in message
m...

They'll tell you to turn the pressure down by partially closing the
stoptap, which is what you should have done before buying a regulator.

The static presure will burst equiment not rated to 10 bar. You NEED a
PRV.

Sometimes the man speaks sense - and this is one such occasion

You are an idiot!

One for the archives there ...

--
geoff

Doctor Drivel
wibbled on Monday 07 December 2009 00:42


"Tim W" wrote in message
...
Doctor Drivel
wibbled on Monday 07 December 2009 00:29


"Phil L" wrote in message
m...

They'll tell you to turn the pressure down by partially closing the
stoptap, which is what you should have done before buying a regulator.

The static presure will burst equiment not rated to 10 bar. You NEED a
PRV.

Sometimes the man speaks sense - and this is one such occasion

You are an idiot!

Not a plantpot then?

--
Tim Watts

This space intentionally left blank...

IME, certain garden hoses (hello Screwfix) fail early at 7.5bar, so for
anyone with 10bar static pressure, I would rate it as a *very good* idea
to
include a pressure regulator next to the stopcock. I found 7.5 bar a big
enough pain to include a regulator in my system. No real disadvantages and
a
decent device does not reduce the flow (I tested this specifically). CAme
in
very handy when I wanted to install a water heater that required 6bar
(the
included pressure relief valve is set to 6bar).

Cheers

Tim

--
Tim Watts

This space intentionally left blank...



That's a good point on hoses.

The "spur" to my outside taps is upstream of the pressure regulator.

It's a real hassle replacing hose connectors all the time (because they get
blown off). ....and have had one "burst".

On Mon, 07 Dec 2009 10:04:40 +0000, ARWadsworth wrote:
You are an idiot!

Not a plantpot then?

--
Tim Watts

It depends what page his Ladybird Book Of Insults is randomly opened to.

And which pages haven't been chewed (or otherwise soiled).

"dennis@home" wrote in message
...


"Vortex5" wrote in message
...

The "spur" to my outside taps is upstream of the pressure regulator.

It's a real hassle replacing hose connectors all the time (because they
get blown off). ....and have had one "burst".

Mine blew a watering computer to bits.
Luckily I got a new one from the shop for free.
I had to fit a pressure regulator to stop the new one breaking.
Of course turning the stop tap down as suggested earlier would have
resulted in another blown up watering computer.
Spoke to the South East Water today. "that sounds very high" they said.

An investigation is in progress.

Doctor Drivel wrote:

"Tim W" wrote in message
...
Doctor Drivel
wibbled on Monday 07 December 2009 00:29


"Phil L" wrote in message
m...

They'll tell you to turn the pressure down by partially closing the
stoptap, which is what you should have done before buying a regulator.

The static presure will burst equiment not rated to 10 bar. You NEED a
PRV.

Sometimes the man speaks sense - and this is one such occasion

You are an idiot!

Where does that rank against being called a plant pot then?

Dave

"geoff" wrote in message
...
In message , Doctor Drivel
writes

"Tim W" wrote in message

You are an idiot!

One for the archives there ...

Fantastic to hear from you Maxie! How is the Paddy band going? You do play
to many drunken audiences? People like you make this world go round and are
a breath of fresh air. You really are. I hope you have stopped swearing at
people in the street and have a handle on the flatulence. Fantastic Maxie.
Truly fantastic.

"Tim W" wrote in message
...
Doctor Drivel
wibbled on Monday 07 December 2009 00:42


"Tim W" wrote in message
...
Doctor Drivel
wibbled on Monday 07 December 2009 00:29


"Phil L" wrote in message
m...

They'll tell you to turn the pressure down by partially closing the
stoptap, which is what you should have done before buying a regulator.

The static presure will burst equiment not rated to 10 bar. You NEED a
PRV.

Sometimes the man speaks sense - and this is one such occasion

You are an idiot!

Not a plantpot then?

As well.

Dave
wibbled on Monday 07 December 2009 16:46

Doctor Drivel wrote:

"Tim W" wrote in message
...
Doctor Drivel
wibbled on Monday 07 December 2009 00:29


"Phil L" wrote in message
m...

They'll tell you to turn the pressure down by partially closing the
stoptap, which is what you should have done before buying a regulator.

The static presure will burst equiment not rated to 10 bar. You NEED a
PRV.

Sometimes the man speaks sense - and this is one such occasion

You are an idiot!

Where does that rank against being called a plant pot then?

Well, I feel aggrieved. Not special enough to get a proper name.

Have you noticed Drivel's creativity is down the pan of late. Must be the
new pills...


--
Tim Watts

This space intentionally left blank...

"PeterC" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 06 Dec 2009 22:45:08 +0000, Tim W wrote:

It also doesn't help any equipment that doesn't like such high pressures
as
they will be seeing the static pressure regularly. It would also be a
potential disaster if the OP had mains pressure DHW and plastic.

Looking at an offcut of JG Speedfit pipe, I see the pressure ratings a

12bar at 20C
4 bar at 82C
3 bar at 92C

The figure for 60C isn't given but I can't see JG pipe enjoying 10bar at
much over 40C if that.

Much the same for washing machine hoses, but lower pressures. In the rare
case of a machine that uses hot fill from a combi,

Rare??????

the hose will be full of
hot water when the filling ceases and mains pressure on a hot hose...!

A few years ago I installed a Miele and that hose was much higher rated
than standard ones.

With these sorts of pressures, it is best to have cold fill only. Most
washing machines are these days. Cold 30C washing liquid is very good. The
have a 1/4 turn tap under the sink at the front so the machine is turned off
after each wash, or have a remote operated water tap, available from S/fix
and the likes. Just hit he switch and the cold is off.

"ARWadsworth" wrote in message
m...

"Tim W" wrote in message
...
Doctor Drivel
wibbled on Monday 07 December 2009 00:42


"Tim W" wrote in message
...
Doctor Drivel
wibbled on Monday 07 December 2009 00:29


"Phil L" wrote in message
m...

They'll tell you to turn the pressure down by partially closing the
stoptap, which is what you should have done before buying a
regulator.

The static presure will burst equiment not rated to 10 bar. You NEED
a
PRV.

Sometimes the man speaks sense - and this is one such occasion

You are an idiot!

Not a plantpot then?

It depends what page his Ladybird Book Of Insults is randomly opened to.

You need tagging.

"Tim W" wrote in message
...
ARWadsworth
wibbled on Monday 07 December 2009 10:04


"Tim W" wrote in message

Not a plantpot then?

--
Tim Watts


It depends what page his Ladybird Book Of Insults is randomly opened to.

Adam

Ah, the book with 3 pages:

Plantpot
Idiot
And something about blokes in dresses...

You fill all three.

"Jules" wrote in message
news
On Mon, 07 Dec 2009 10:04:40 +0000, ARWadsworth wrote:
You are an idiot!

Not a plantpot then?

--
Tim Watts

It depends what page his Ladybird Book Of Insults is randomly opened to.

And which pages haven't been chewed (or otherwise soiled).

Another pervo that needs tagging.

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember Ron Lowe saying
something like:


That's high.

Normal is around 3-4 bar, but I've seen as high as 7. I've never seen 10.

It's 10bar around here, but the main ressy is on a hillside a fair ways
up, probably 300' or more. Then there's the pumps...
Of course, the Council could put pressure regulators on the system, but
they'd rather keep their employees busy by having to repair the mains
blow-outs every few weeks. Utterly daft.