Do you have any problems with modern fire-resistance-treated timbers?

Some of the noggins we've salvaged from new roofings haven't burned as
well as we expected - and yes we did dry them thoroughly.

Mary

wrote in message
...
Do you have any problems with modern fire-resistance-treated timbers?

Some of the noggins we've salvaged from new roofings haven't burned as
well as we expected - and yes we did dry them thoroughly.

Is this for real?

tim

In message , tim....
writes

wrote in message
...
Do you have any problems with modern fire-resistance-treated timbers?

Some of the noggins we've salvaged from new roofings haven't burned as
well as we expected - and yes we did dry them thoroughly.

Is this for real?

one would hope so

--
d @ stejonda

On Sat, 14 Nov 2009 20:04:17 +0000, tim.... wrote:


wrote in message
...
Do you have any problems with modern fire-resistance-treated timbers?

Some of the noggins we've salvaged from new roofings haven't burned as
well as we expected - and yes we did dry them thoroughly.

Is this for real?

I dunno - use your noggins... :P

wrote:

Do you have any problems with modern fire-resistance-treated timbers?

Some of the noggins we've salvaged from new roofings haven't burned as
well as we expected - and yes we did dry them thoroughly.

The asbestos I tried to burn last week was a bugger to light.

On Nov 14, 5:37*pm, (Steve Firth) wrote:
wrote:
Do you have any problems with modern fire-resistance-treated timbers?

Some of the noggins we've salvaged from new roofings haven't burned as
well as we expected - and yes we did dry them thoroughly.

The asbestos I tried to burn last week was a *bugger to light.

Yep those metal studs too. Hard on the hands bending em to fit in the
stove.
Seems like anything fire proof or fire treated is not supposed to
burn!!!!!
Wonder why?

In message
,
terry writes

Seems like anything fire proof or fire treated is not supposed to
burn!!!!!

Now there is a challenge..................

--
Bill

In message , Steve Firth
writes
wrote:

Do you have any problems with modern fire-resistance-treated timbers?

Some of the noggins we've salvaged from new roofings haven't burned as
well as we expected - and yes we did dry them thoroughly.

The asbestos I tried to burn last week was a bugger to light.

However, if you sprayed it with WD40 ...

--
geoff

geoff wrote:

In message , Steve Firth
writes
wrote:

Do you have any problems with modern fire-resistance-treated timbers?

Some of the noggins we've salvaged from new roofings haven't burned as
well as we expected - and yes we did dry them thoroughly.

The asbestos I tried to burn last week was a bugger to light.

However, if you sprayed it with WD40 ...

Probably need an angle grinder as well...

On Nov 14, 7:41*pm, "
wrote:
Do you have any problems with modern fire-resistance-treated timbers?

Some of the noggins we've salvaged from new roofings haven't burned as
well as we expected - and yes we did dry them thoroughly.

Mary

When I burnt wood I often had hard to burn stuff, I forget what it
was, but used to use it to line the bottom. The primary fuel thus
burnt this stuff up gradually.


NT

In message
,
" writes
Do you have any problems with modern fire-resistance-treated timbers?

Some of the noggins we've salvaged from new roofings haven't burned as
well as we expected - and yes we did dry them thoroughly.

But you're the wicked witch of the north

can't you cast a spell and ignite them with sparks from your broomstick
?


--
geoff

In message
,
" writes
Do you have any problems with modern fire-resistance-treated timbers?

Some of the noggins we've salvaged from new roofings haven't burned as
well as we expected - and yes we did dry them thoroughly.

Yes:-)

When I last had a proper job... Maintenance staff had first call on
surplus material heading for the dump. An overhead conveyor passage
between two factory buildings had been taken down liberating a pile of
clean pine (apart from pigeon droppings) in 8"x 3"x 6'. The boiler house
man and I both vied for the spoils.

He wanted to split the wood and market it for fire lighting purposes.
(this was 30 years ago). Unfortunately the wood had been impregnated
with a salt which made it virtually fireproof. My use was feed racks for
housed cattle and, now this activity has finished, I am wondering how to
dispose of the residue.

regards

--
Tim Lamb

Tim Lamb wrote:

My use was feed racks for
housed cattle and, now this activity has finished, I am wondering how to
dispose of the residue.

If it cannot be re used then land fill at a permitted facility or a fully
WID compliant burner are the only two options I can think of, with the
latter all the ash would be considered hazardous.

Most wood fire retardants seem to be simple salts of sodium potassium and
boron and silica, rather than the bromine based stuff, so the products of
combustion shouldn't be too bad. I guess they act by farminng a skin over
the wood which prevents the air getting to char, which then is self
limiting to an extent as char is a good insulator. So the wood self
extinguishes in the same way a match does once the volatiles have burned
off. Any such coating will fail if the wood it protects gets above ~270C,
as one might expect in a good, hot wood burner.

AJH

On 15 Nov, 14:32, andrew wrote:
Tim Lamb wrote:
My use was feed racks for
housed cattle and, now this activity has finished, I am wondering how to
dispose of the residue.

If it cannot be re used then land fill at a permitted facility or a fully
WID compliant burner are the only two options I can think of, with the
latter all the ash would be considered hazardous.

Most wood fire retardants seem to be simple salts of sodium potassium and
boron and silica, rather than the bromine based stuff, so the products of
combustion shouldn't be too bad. I guess they act by farminng a skin over
the wood which prevents the air getting to char, which then is self
limiting to an extent as char is a good insulator. So the wood self
extinguishes in the same way a match does once the volatiles have burned
off. Any such coating will fail if the wood it protects gets above ~270C,
as one might expect in a good, hot wood burner.

AJH

Thank you Tim and Andrew.

I don't know that the timber HAS been treated. Perhaps I should have
put it more simply for some and asked if modern structural timbers are
always fire-proofed, thus leading to problems with burning off-cuts in
an efficient stove.

The suspect timber we harvested will burn but it takes time and a lot
of heat to ignite - as NT suggested. It certainly isn't as 'burnable'
as the hardwood logs we've split from trees we've cut ourselves and
seasoned. What's more, the 'glass' window is sooty the morning after
we've burned the off-cuts (we've done it twice).

What made me wonder about treatment was that there were green flames,
indicating the presence of copper salts. That, I wouldn't have
thought, have been used for flame retardation, more likely it would be
against insect damage - but it's a long time since I've worked with
such things and technology changes swiftly.

We have about two evening's worth of the bits left, I'll use those but
would still like to know if it's worth collecting more from a similar
source.

By the way, as I said these were from roofing timbers. Bags of noggins
donated from a window supplier burned perfectly.

Thanks again,

Mary

wrote:
On 15 Nov, 14:32, andrew wrote:
Tim Lamb wrote:
My use was feed racks for
housed cattle and, now this activity has finished, I am wondering how to
dispose of the residue.
If it cannot be re used then land fill at a permitted facility or a fully
WID compliant burner are the only two options I can think of, with the
latter all the ash would be considered hazardous.

Most wood fire retardants seem to be simple salts of sodium potassium and
boron and silica, rather than the bromine based stuff, so the products of
combustion shouldn't be too bad. I guess they act by farminng a skin over
the wood which prevents the air getting to char, which then is self
limiting to an extent as char is a good insulator. So the wood self
extinguishes in the same way a match does once the volatiles have burned
off. Any such coating will fail if the wood it protects gets above ~270C,
as one might expect in a good, hot wood burner.

AJH

Thank you Tim and Andrew.

I don't know that the timber HAS been treated. Perhaps I should have
put it more simply for some and asked if modern structural timbers are
always fire-proofed, thus leading to problems with burning off-cuts in
an efficient stove.

The suspect timber we harvested will burn but it takes time and a lot
of heat to ignite - as NT suggested. It certainly isn't as 'burnable'
as the hardwood logs we've split from trees we've cut ourselves and
seasoned. What's more, the 'glass' window is sooty the morning after
we've burned the off-cuts (we've done it twice).

Not fireproofed, but pressure treated against rot.

Split them to expose the inside.

Oh, its probably totally illegal to burn them as well.

The Natural Philosopher wrote:

Not fireproofed, but pressure treated against rot.

Split them to expose the inside.

Oh, its probably totally illegal to burn them as well.

They contain arsenic and other nasties, so it's no sensible to burn
them.

On 14 Nov, 19:41, "
wrote:
Do you have any problems with modern fire-resistance-treated timbers?

Some of the noggins we've salvaged from new roofings haven't burned as
well as we expected - and yes we did dry them thoroughly.

Mary

It seems that not everyone here is familiar with joiners' expressions.

wrote:
On 14 Nov, 19:41, "
wrote:
Do you have any problems with modern fire-resistance-treated timbers?

Some of the noggins we've salvaged from new roofings haven't burned as
well as we expected - and yes we did dry them thoroughly.

Mary

It seems that not everyone here is familiar with joiners' expressions.

It seems that one person here isnt familiar with the concept of
'fireproofing', rather.