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Default replacement front door decisions


We've had an Anglian uPVC front door & sidelight for just over 10 years.
The locking mechanism has become troublesome and I've had to
adjust/tighten it several times and have latterly had someone come out
under our home insurance domestic emergency cover when we were faced
with being unable to lock/unlock it.

I've just been quoted £125 by Anglian for them to come out and take a
look at it but they commented that 'as it's so old there will no longer
be parts available for it' so they doubt there'll be anything they can
do! This sounds like cr*p as companies like www.multipointlocks.co.uk,
www.locksonline.co.uk, www.upvcdoorlocks.co.uk,
www.securityhardware.co.uk & www.upvc-hardware.co.uk all sell uPVC
mechanisms.

However, I have doubts that the door is worth spending further money on
& SWMBO would prefer a hardwood door & frame.

The nearest hardwood door supplier/fitter quoted reasonably and appeared
competent at first but in a conversation yesterday told us that the
frame & door would be untreated when fitted (with the door furniture
attached to the untreated door???) and we would be left to complete
that.

I'm unconvinced that sealing the bottom edge of an external door in-situ
is feasible let alone the usual way of working???

Thoughts/suggestions/recommendations etc. welcomed...

--
dave @ stejonda
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Default replacement front door decisions

postmaster @ stejonda wrote:

We've had an Anglian uPVC front door & sidelight for just over 10 years.
The locking mechanism has become troublesome and I've had to
adjust/tighten it several times and have latterly had someone come out
under our home insurance domestic emergency cover when we were faced
with being unable to lock/unlock it.

I've just been quoted £125 by Anglian for them to come out and take a
look at it but they commented that 'as it's so old there will no longer
be parts available for it' so they doubt there'll be anything they can
do! This sounds like cr*p as companies like www.multipointlocks.co.uk,
www.locksonline.co.uk, www.upvcdoorlocks.co.uk,
www.securityhardware.co.uk & www.upvc-hardware.co.uk all sell uPVC
mechanisms.

However, I have doubts that the door is worth spending further money on
& SWMBO would prefer a hardwood door & frame.

The nearest hardwood door supplier/fitter quoted reasonably and appeared
competent at first but in a conversation yesterday told us that the
frame & door would be untreated when fitted (with the door furniture
attached to the untreated door???) and we would be left to complete that.

I'm unconvinced that sealing the bottom edge of an external door in-situ
is feasible let alone the usual way of working???

Thoughts/suggestions/recommendations etc. welcomed...


No big deal removing the door furniture to do the finishing. I just rub
candle wax into the bottom edge, which is usually doable in situ. IME no
surface coating comes anywhere near it terms of longevity and water
resistance. Not pretty, but effective in hidden areas.
I did mention on here recently that I wouldn't fancy an engineered
hardwood wood door in an exposed location. Certainly round here, those
without a porch look pretty sorry for themselves after a couple of
years, especially the varnished ones.
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Default replacement front door decisions

In message , Stuart Noble
writes
postmaster @ stejonda wrote:
We've had an Anglian uPVC front door & sidelight for just over 10
years. The locking mechanism has become troublesome


I have doubts that the door is worth spending further money on &
SWMBO would prefer a hardwood door & frame.
The nearest hardwood door supplier/fitter quoted reasonably and
appeared competent at first but in a conversation yesterday told us
that the frame & door would be untreated when fitted (with the door
furniture attached to the untreated door???) and we would be left to
complete that.
I'm unconvinced that sealing the bottom edge of an external door
in-situ is feasible let alone the usual way of working???
Thoughts/suggestions/recommendations etc. welcomed...


No big deal removing the door furniture to do the finishing. I just rub
candle wax into the bottom edge, which is usually doable in situ. IME
no surface coating comes anywhere near it terms of longevity and water
resistance. Not pretty, but effective in hidden areas.


Ok - so just loosen the furniture to apply the finish? - thanks Stuart.

I did mention on here recently that I wouldn't fancy an engineered
hardwood wood door in an exposed location. Certainly round here, those
without a porch look pretty sorry for themselves after a couple of
years, especially the varnished ones.


You'd suggest going with uPVC again? I really can't face dealing with a
DG saleperson again!

The door is inset about 2ft from the front of the house so it's quite
sheltered. What are the better alternatives to varnish?

--
dave @ stejonda

NE Kent / SE London
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Default replacement front door decisions

On 13 Nov, 09:54, "postmaster @ stejonda"
wrote:

The nearest hardwood door supplier/fitter quoted reasonably and appeared
competent at first but in a conversation yesterday told us that the
frame & door would be untreated when fitted (with the door furniture
attached to the untreated door???) and we would be left to complete
that.


This is quite normal, IME a chippy always hangs doors before they have
any kind of treatment. You could ask him to have the new door
delivered to you a week in advance of the job so that you can treat it
yourself, but he may not like having to work with a finished door,
especially if you're planning to use gloss paint. If you're having a
new frame fitted at the same time then he shouldn't have to do too
much planing and sawing to fit it, so in theory you could do most of
the finishing in advance.
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postmaster @ stejonda wrote:
In message , Stuart Noble
writes
postmaster @ stejonda wrote:
We've had an Anglian uPVC front door & sidelight for just over 10
years. The locking mechanism has become troublesome


I have doubts that the door is worth spending further money on &
SWMBO would prefer a hardwood door & frame.
The nearest hardwood door supplier/fitter quoted reasonably and
appeared competent at first but in a conversation yesterday told us
that the frame & door would be untreated when fitted (with the door
furniture attached to the untreated door???) and we would be left to
complete that.
I'm unconvinced that sealing the bottom edge of an external door
in-situ is feasible let alone the usual way of working???
Thoughts/suggestions/recommendations etc. welcomed...


No big deal removing the door furniture to do the finishing. I just
rub candle wax into the bottom edge, which is usually doable in situ.
IME no surface coating comes anywhere near it terms of longevity and
water resistance. Not pretty, but effective in hidden areas.


Ok - so just loosen the furniture to apply the finish? - thanks Stuart.


I prefer to take the furniture off altogether. Nothing complicated.
Putting 3 or 4 coats of anything on a front door at this time of year is
a pain though. Leaving it ajar for 12 hours at a time to let the edges
dry is fine if you never go anywhere :-)


I did mention on here recently that I wouldn't fancy an engineered
hardwood wood door in an exposed location. Certainly round here, those
without a porch look pretty sorry for themselves after a couple of
years, especially the varnished ones.


You'd suggest going with uPVC again? I really can't face dealing with a
DG saleperson again!


Plenty of local firms will fit a front door (pvc or wood) for £500, and
IME there's no difference in quality from a national type firm like
Anglia. If pvc even remotely suits the house, I'd go with that again.
I'm in a line of terraced houses, all with wooden doors, so I did the
decent thing.

The door is inset about 2ft from the front of the house so it's quite
sheltered. What are the better alternatives to varnish?

Mine is protected too but, having looked round the neighbourhood and
seen all the treacle effect varnished finishes, I went for dark green
paint. At least it'll look the same in 5 years time, unlike any
varnished door I've ever seen.


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On Fri, 13 Nov 2009 10:59:56 +0000, postmaster @ stejonda wrote:

You'd suggest going with uPVC again? I really can't face dealing with a
DG saleperson again!


It needs less maintenace for sure... Find a local company that has
been trading for the last 10/20 years or so rather than one of the
high pressure sales national franchises.

The door is inset about 2ft from the front of the house so it's quite
sheltered. What are the better alternatives to varnish?


Direct sunlight is the normal kiler for surface finishes. What gets
me is things that call themselves "stains" but are just a surface
finish. To me a "stain" is something that soaks into the timber to
colour and/or protect it.

--
Cheers
Dave.



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Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Fri, 13 Nov 2009 10:59:56 +0000, postmaster @ stejonda wrote:

You'd suggest going with uPVC again? I really can't face dealing with a
DG saleperson again!


It needs less maintenace for sure... Find a local company that has
been trading for the last 10/20 years or so rather than one of the
high pressure sales national franchises.

The door is inset about 2ft from the front of the house so it's quite
sheltered. What are the better alternatives to varnish?


Direct sunlight is the normal kiler for surface finishes. What gets
me is things that call themselves "stains" but are just a surface
finish. To me a "stain" is something that soaks into the timber to
colour and/or protect it.


A lot of people like the yellow/brown colour of a new wooden door, and
think a clear varnish will be just the job. Alas, the *real* colour of
the wood only becomes apparent when it is covered with a film that
reflects light, so it pays to wipe the surface with white spirit to see
what effect a "clear" finish is likely have. In the case of sapele, this
will probably be a lot darker and redder than anticipated.
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"postmaster @ stejonda" wrote in message
...

We've had an Anglian uPVC front door & sidelight for just over 10 years.
The locking mechanism has become troublesome and I've had to
adjust/tighten it several times and have latterly had someone come out
under our home insurance domestic emergency cover when we were faced with
being unable to lock/unlock it.

I've just been quoted £125 by Anglian for them to come out and take a look
at it but they commented that 'as it's so old there will no longer be
parts available for it' so they doubt there'll be anything they can do!
This sounds like cr*p as companies like www.multipointlocks.co.uk,
www.locksonline.co.uk, www.upvcdoorlocks.co.uk, www.securityhardware.co.uk
& www.upvc-hardware.co.uk all sell uPVC mechanisms.

However, I have doubts that the door is worth spending further money on &
SWMBO would prefer a hardwood door & frame.

The nearest hardwood door supplier/fitter quoted reasonably and appeared
competent at first but in a conversation yesterday told us that the frame
& door would be untreated when fitted (with the door furniture attached to
the untreated door???) and we would be left to complete that.

I'm unconvinced that sealing the bottom edge of an external door in-situ
is feasible let alone the usual way of working???

Thoughts/suggestions/recommendations etc. welcomed...


You should consider a Fiberglass door as a replacement to wood or upvc.

http://www.thermatru.com/products/entry/



-


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Default replacement front door decisions



"postmaster @ stejonda" wrote in message
...

We've had an Anglian uPVC front door & sidelight for just over 10 years.
The locking mechanism has become troublesome and I've had to
adjust/tighten it several times and have latterly had someone come out
under our home insurance domestic emergency cover when we were faced with
being unable to lock/unlock it.

I've just been quoted £125 by Anglian for them to come out and take a look
at it but they commented that 'as it's so old there will no longer be
parts available for it' so they doubt there'll be anything they can do!
This sounds like cr*p as companies like www.multipointlocks.co.uk,
www.locksonline.co.uk, www.upvcdoorlocks.co.uk, www.securityhardware.co.uk
& www.upvc-hardware.co.uk all sell uPVC mechanisms.

However, I have doubts that the door is worth spending further money on &
SWMBO would prefer a hardwood door & frame.

The nearest hardwood door supplier/fitter quoted reasonably and appeared
competent at first but in a conversation yesterday told us that the frame
& door would be untreated when fitted (with the door furniture attached to
the untreated door???) and we would be left to complete that.

I'm unconvinced that sealing the bottom edge of an external door in-situ
is feasible let alone the usual way of working???

Thoughts/suggestions/recommendations etc. welcomed...


We have a steel skinned front door. Looks like wood from a distance, but it
has a steel skin on front and back and a double glazed panel in it. Seems
sturdy and in it's nine years of life, hasn't deteriorated. Could do with a
lick of paint though, next year.

http://www.thermatru.com/products/en...les/index.aspx


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In message o.uk, Dave
Liquorice writes
On Fri, 13 Nov 2009 10:59:56 +0000, postmaster @ stejonda wrote:

You'd suggest going with uPVC again? I really can't face dealing with a
DG saleperson again!


It needs less maintenace for sure... Find a local company that has
been trading for the last 10/20 years or so rather than one of the
high pressure sales national franchises.


Noted & located. Both uPVC and wood companies. Both local and around a
long time. Just spoken to the latter and the guy seemed much more clued
up than the original I contacted. He has a slot next week to quote.

The door is inset about 2ft from the front of the house so it's quite
sheltered. What are the better alternatives to varnish?


Direct sunlight is the normal kiler for surface finishes. What gets
me is things that call themselves "stains" but are just a surface
finish. To me a "stain" is something that soaks into the timber to
colour and/or protect it.

Is it reasonable to assume that I'll get what I pay for when it comes to
choice of protective finish?

Incidentally I've just come across the term Part L compliance in
relation to thermal insulation. Is this worth paying the extra for?

--
dave @ stejonda
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