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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Hi,
I have just yesterday completed fixing the ******* kitchen floor - the one that looked liked this: http://photos.dionic.net/v/public/bu..._0001.jpg.html http://photos.dionic.net/v/public/bu...ZPlan.png.html Put the F Ball F75 DPM paint on Monday and Tuesday and primed that with P131 (a neoprene sticky stuff) on Wednesday and me + SWMBO managed a single pour of Stopgap 300 (5 bags) yesterday. Today I have removed the dams (to stop the magic crap escaping the doorways and to keep a bare area of concrete in the fireplace and hearth area (which will be screeded in fairly strong sand/cement for reasons of heat resistance). It's looking good (fingers crossed big time!). A cursory wave of the 6' level indicates it appears good to within 1-2mm over any 6' span with many parts being as perfectly flat as measurable. The floor seems solid enough so it's ready for tiling as soon as I screed in the fireplace area (which won't have a DPM - not practical as it's expected to get hot and the screed is not so thick) - but will be seperated from the rest of the floor with a vertical DPM strip. Some gotchas for the unwary, for Google: 1) Stopgap F75 is a 2 pack expensive epoxy DPM. It's easy enough to apply but you need a set of disposable rollers and a 6' roller stick and wellies. Quite impressive stuff - some I peeled off the mixer paddle seems as flexible as a tough rubber. 2) Once the P131 over primer has been applied the floor is now very sticky, even when dry (that's its job). I had a heart stopping moment when my wellies pulled up a 1 sq inch bit of the DPM. My shoes hadn't been a problem as they were dusty, but my wellies must have had a trace of P131 on them so bonded very well to one bit. That was unexpected... What to do - well, technically one should make good with more F75 - but that would mean another 5kg pack (long wait, loads of money). So as it was a tiny patch, I treated with SBR, and stuck 2 layers of overlapping PVC tape over. Bit of a bodge, but almost certainly good enough to slow any major vapour ingress. Tip: walk on the primed floor with bare feet until the topping layer of Stopgap 300 poured, then wellies are safe again. I also placed the buckets on rubble bags, which stuck down but could be peeled off with minimal force so not damaging the floor. 3) 5 bags of Stopgap 300 (necessary to get a 3mm overcoat as required by the F75) is a ******* to mix. I did it with a 3 bag mix in a 69 litre bucket and a 2 bag mix in another bucket. Mix the 3 bag for no more than 5 mins total, then do the 2 bag mix, then remix the 3 bag bucket. Have everything ready, bags slit, water measured and an assistant on the mixer. 3 bags at once is slightly more than a big SDS plaster paddle can manage - may get a few small lumps. These can be worked out with a spiked roller. Using a full on plaster's mixer would be better but as I expected this, mixing extra hard and having the spiked roller ready made it work. 4) Someone once mentioned here a T-bar tool with 2 or 3 screws sticking 3mm off the edge corner of the "T" to help spread SLC to about the right thickness. I made one out of wood and that was invaluable. Kicked both buckets over, then moved and placed upside down to drain every last drop of our prescious magic crap. The T bar allows one to swifly, and in a standing posture, to spread the SLC over the whole 20m2 withing 5 minutes. 5 minutes with a spiked roller then fixed the air bubbles, odd lump and footprints. At this stage, we are about 20 minutes into the procedure and the mix goes off at 20-30 minutes! That left just enough fluidity in the mix for gravity to lend a hand. Looking at it today, I feel extremely pleased, and relieved! Bear in mind the other alternative to this was dig out the concrete. I suspect that would have cost a lot more (not a DIY job for me anymore). The latter could have bought me an insulated floor, but I decided on the former and I'm pleased enough... Photos coming soon. -- Tim Watts This space intentionally left blank... |
#2
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Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Tim W wrote:
big snip Photos coming soon. Oh you tease.... I thought - lets cut to the photo now after all that! ;-) -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
#3
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Posted to uk.d-i-y
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John Rumm
wibbled on Friday 02 October 2009 20:14 Tim W wrote: big snip Photos coming soon. Oh you tease.... I thought - lets cut to the photo now after all that! ;-) Sorry - busy with tiling the bathroom and random school/nursery pickups... Tomorrow - promise... -- Tim Watts This space intentionally left blank... |
#4
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Posted to uk.d-i-y
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On 2 Oct, 13:17, Tim W wrote:
snip What a marathon, sounds like a good job at the end of it. |
#5
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Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Bolted
wibbled on Friday 02 October 2009 22:08 On 2 Oct, 13:17, Tim W wrote: snip What a marathon, sounds like a good job at the end of it. ![]() The whole house is a marathon, one way or another! -- Tim Watts This space intentionally left blank... |
#6
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Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Bolted
wibbled on Friday 02 October 2009 22:08 On 2 Oct, 13:17, Tim W wrote: snip What a marathon, sounds like a good job at the end of it. I think I owe you personally much thanks too. IIRC it was you who introduced me to F Ball products. -- Tim Watts This space intentionally left blank... |
#7
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Posted to uk.d-i-y
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John Rumm
wibbled on Friday 02 October 2009 20:14 Tim W wrote: big snip Photos coming soon. Oh you tease.... I thought - lets cut to the photo now after all that! ;-) Here you go: Red crap, aka epoxy F75 http://photos.dionic.net/v/public/bu..._0009.jpg.html http://photos.dionic.net/v/public/bu..._0012.jpg.html Finished with Stopgap 300: http://photos.dionic.net/v/public/bu..._0017.jpg.html http://photos.dionic.net/v/public/bu..._0018.jpg.html http://photos.dionic.net/v/public/bu..._0019.jpg.html http://photos.dionic.net/v/public/bu..._0020.jpg.html (Note - cutout for hearth screed as this needs to withstand more heat than the F75 would be good for...) The T-tool: http://photos.dionic.net/v/public/bu..._0022.jpg.html http://photos.dionic.net/v/public/bu..._0023.jpg.html Cheers Tim -- Tim Watts This space intentionally left blank... |
#8
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Posted to uk.d-i-y
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On 3 Oct, 07:27, Tim W wrote:
Bolted * wibbled on Friday 02 October 2009 22:08 On 2 Oct, 13:17, Tim W wrote: snip What a marathon, sounds like a good job at the end of it. I think I owe you personally much thanks too. IIRC it was you who introduced me to F Ball products. -- Tim Watts This space intentionally left blank... It's a pleasure - well, they are the pleasure (you've used far more than me, now, but that SG 300 is astonishing, isn't it). |
#9
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Posted to uk.d-i-y
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On Tue, 06 Oct 2009 03:48:25 +0100, John Rumm wrote:
Now that is red and shiny! ;-) (looks rather like you just slaughtered and bled six months supply of JWs!) .... or melted down a large supply of clown noses. |
#10
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Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Jules
wibbled on Tuesday 06 October 2009 14:03 On Tue, 06 Oct 2009 03:48:25 +0100, John Rumm wrote: Now that is red and shiny! ;-) (looks rather like you just slaughtered and bled six months supply of JWs!) ... or melted down a large supply of clown noses. Hehe. Pity it has to be covered up... -- Tim Watts This space intentionally left blank... |
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