On Aug 17, 10:32*am, Nick wrote:
I have wooden window frames in my house which contain smallish sealed
double glazed units.

The units total dimensions are appox 49cm x 46cm x 1.7cm.

The units are held in place by four wooden strips.

All in all pretty cheap and nasty.

Is it possible to get replacement units and fit them myself. If so how
should I specify dimensions and where do I order them from.


Somethign probably not to worry about overly but: You would be
"interfering with a thermal unit" and you might need to be able to
satisfy building control that the modified window meets modern
building regulations. It won't have a FENSA certificate and the new
units will probably have the date engraved inside them.

Robert

Repairs are exempted from Building Regulations.

A typical spec for a sealed unit would be something like "4/16/4 K-
glass, 300*200mm"

The numbers mean 4mm plain glass, 16mm air gap, 4mm plain glass - so
overall 24mm thick.

K-glass means that the inner pane will have a transparent heat
reflective coating (and stickers on it to show you which face should
be inwards/outwards when fitting it).

K-glass is standard nowadays and the extra cost minimal.

It's best if you remove the original unit and measure it. Measure the
overall thickness accurately to calculate the air gap.

It's normal practice for the glazing unit to be 5mm smaller than the
rebate in the frame in each direction, and to stand up on little
rubber spacer blocks - but if you're measuring from the original
glazing unit you won't have to worry about this.

You may find that the wooden glazing beads are in a pretty tatty state
(or will be after you've prized them off) and need replacing. Beading
can be suprisingly expensive - if you the facilities to run up your
own, so much the better.

As far as fitting the glass, butyl rubber glazers tape is the stuff to
use now. It's a non-setting, thick (typically 10*3mm) and very sticky
- position it carefully between glass and timber to form a good
weather seal.

Wickes sell it, or if you're lucky your glazer will give/sell you a
bit.

Best going to a small local glazier that's happy to make up just 1 or
2 units for a customer.

In article ,
RubberBiker writes:

K-glass means that the inner pane will have a transparent heat
reflective coating (and stickers on it to show you which face should
be inwards/outwards when fitting it).

K-glass is standard nowadays and the extra cost minimal.

However, it will show if you fit one K-glass pane, and the
others aren't. (It will often show if you replace one too,
as batches/makes are often different tints.)

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

RubberBiker wrote:
Repairs are exempted from Building Regulations.

A typical spec for a sealed unit would be something like "4/16/4 K-
glass, 300*200mm"

The numbers mean 4mm plain glass, 16mm air gap, 4mm plain glass - so
overall 24mm thick.

K-glass means that the inner pane will have a transparent heat
reflective coating (and stickers on it to show you which face should
be inwards/outwards when fitting it).

K-glass is standard nowadays and the extra cost minimal.

It's best if you remove the original unit and measure it. Measure the
overall thickness accurately to calculate the air gap.


Is that the way to quote.

Assuming 4mm glass. My spec would be something like

If Overall dimensions are 490mm x 460mm x 17mm

I would quote

490mm x 460mm with 9mm air gap?


It's normal practice for the glazing unit to be 5mm smaller than the
rebate in the frame in each direction, and to stand up on little
rubber spacer blocks - but if you're measuring from the original
glazing unit you won't have to worry about this.

You may find that the wooden glazing beads are in a pretty tatty state
(or will be after you've prized them off) and need replacing. Beading
can be suprisingly expensive - if you the facilities to run up your
own, so much the better.

As far as fitting the glass, butyl rubber glazers tape is the stuff to
use now. It's a non-setting, thick (typically 10*3mm) and very sticky
- position it carefully between glass and timber to form a good
weather seal.

Wickes sell it, or if you're lucky your glazer will give/sell you a
bit.

Best going to a small local glazier that's happy to make up just 1 or
2 units for a customer.

Thanks very helpful.

Either quote the 9mm airgap, with assumption of 4mm float glass, or
quote the whole thing 4/9/4 so there is no ambiguity about the overall
thickness of the unit.